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alho
12-23-2010, 11:08 PM
I ran my engine pretty hard today, close to red-line. Afterwards, I noticed that the engine idled pretty loud. There is a distinct ticking sound that I don't recall being there before. This ticking sound is not the subtle ticking heard normally. The engine was fully warmed up when I ran it hard. Is this normal? What could be wrong?

On a side note, my CEL came on today when I hit a bump. The light has been going on and off lately but the car drivers perfectly fine. I don't see how a bump can trigger the CEL. What's wrong with my car?! :bang :(

Thanks.

Donutz
12-23-2010, 11:42 PM
What's the code for the cel?

TheMAN
12-24-2010, 12:32 AM
ticking = rod knock

McGuyver_3
12-24-2010, 12:36 AM
care to elaborate on what you mean by "running the engine hard and redline"? Does this mean for like extended period of time you kept the car in a low gear and let the rpms go high? Or do you mean you shifted at red line 1 2 or 3 times? As long as the engine is warmed up you can drive your car hard all you want. But by warmed up i mean engine at operating temperature so the oil can flow. But remember the harder you drive your car the more maintenance it will need. I do 2000km-4000km oil change intervals as i drive my car relatively hard all the time. If something brakes on the car replace it and dont let it drag on. Treat your car with respect and it will return the favor to you.
As for your engine light you will need a scanner. You say the light has been on and off. Do you have an intake installed? are you getting proper heat? an engine light could be severl things

McGuyver_3
12-24-2010, 12:40 AM
ticking = rod knock

could also be the intake manifold as their is a flap in their that builds up carbon and causes the ticking noises to make them sound like a diesel. my coworker has this problem with his 3. He's had his car at the dealer several times and they've tried several things to get rid of it and the only option is to replace the manifold. Their are also threads about it on the board. Just i dont understand how this could become noticeable after driving it hard

TheMAN
12-24-2010, 01:00 AM
yes it could be the intake, but it doesn't make sense that it'll break just now... I'm more inclined to believe his engine was low on oil to begin with (is it any surprise these engines burn oil?), and after that little spirited run, it spun the bearings

McGuyver_3
12-24-2010, 01:10 AM
I agree these cars are very bad for not notifying owners the oil is low as my 05 was low at every oil change. (8000km interval) I doubt that the engine spun a bearing. Happened on my 10 sedan (long story) and it did alot more then just a ticking noise.

alho
12-24-2010, 02:20 AM
What's the code for the cel?

Still need to get the code pulled... probably do this tomorrow.

alho
12-24-2010, 02:26 AM
care to elaborate on what you mean by "running the engine hard and redline"? Does this mean for like extended period of time you kept the car in a low gear and let the rpms go high? Or do you mean you shifted at red line 1 2 or 3 times? As long as the engine is warmed up you can drive your car hard all you want. But by warmed up i mean engine at operating temperature so the oil can flow. But remember the harder you drive your car the more maintenance it will need. I do 2000km-4000km oil change intervals as i drive my car relatively hard all the time. If something brakes on the car replace it and dont let it drag on. Treat your car with respect and it will return the favor to you.
As for your engine light you will need a scanner. You say the light has been on and off. Do you have an intake installed? are you getting proper heat? an engine light could be severl things

I didn't do it for an extended period of time. I kept it in low gear to let to rpm's rise to accelerate from a stop. I changed to synthetic on my last oil change. I also change my oil every 5000km.

For my CEL, I do have an intake installed during the summer and it hasn't given me any problems. Even with the CEL on, the car drives and idles fine. Full heating as well. Nothing I can notice.


could also be the intake manifold as their is a flap in their that builds up carbon and causes the ticking noises to make them sound like a diesel. my coworker has this problem with his 3. He's had his car at the dealer several times and they've tried several things to get rid of it and the only option is to replace the manifold. Their are also threads about it on the board. Just i dont understand how this could become noticeable after driving it hard

I have a 2010 sedan, just over year old... I don't think there can be carbon deposits already affecting the engine?

alho
12-24-2010, 02:32 AM
ticking = rod knock

Same as engine knock?

I noticed there's always a faint ticking the moment I picked up my car... told it was normal by the dealership.

McGuyver_3
12-24-2010, 03:23 AM
I didn't do it for an extended period of time. I kept it in low gear to let to rpm's rise to accelerate from a stop. I changed to synthetic on my last oil change. I also change my oil every 5000km.

For my CEL, I do have an intake installed during the summer and it hasn't given me any problems. Even with the CEL on, the car drives and idles fine. Full heating as well. Nothing I can notice.



I have a 2010 sedan, just over year old... I don't think there can be carbon deposits already affecting the engine?

So you have a 2010, The 2010s are very picky to which intake they have installed on them. Is the intake specific for the 2010 or a generic from previous generation? i went through 4 intakes with my 10 sedan and kept throwing cels. Reason was the air straightner was missing as the intakes were for the previous gen cars.



Same as engine knock?

I noticed there's always a faint ticking the moment I picked up my car... told it was normal by the dealership.

the ticking noise yes is normal. the engine knock is a loud knock and you WILL be able to distinguish the difference. I dont know how to explain the noise to you so here is a youtube video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Gq9GTPeFow

TheMAN
12-24-2010, 05:52 AM
the engine isn't going to know the difference between synthetic and dino oil if it's going to burn it
if you use 5W20, it will burn sooner or later... it is just an inevitability... a known fact with these engines when running the "recommended" oil viscosity... running 5W30 or better will almost assure it will never happen

alho
12-24-2010, 11:31 AM
So you have a 2010, The 2010s are very picky to which intake they have installed on them. Is the intake specific for the 2010 or a generic from previous generation? i went through 4 intakes with my 10 sedan and kept throwing cels. Reason was the air straightner was missing as the intakes were for the previous gen cars.

I have the Ractive one. Hasn't thrown a light from summer till now. I don't think other members had a problem with Ractive too...

alho
12-24-2010, 11:33 AM
the engine isn't going to know the difference between synthetic and dino oil if it's going to burn it
if you use 5W20, it will burn sooner or later... it is just an inevitability... a known fact with these engines when running the "recommended" oil viscosity... running 5W30 or better will almost assure it will never happen

I was going to change to 5W30 on my last oil change, but the service advisor at the dealership threatened to void my oil warranty if I didn't use the 'recommended' 5W20. Time to go to another dealership for servicing.

McGuyver_3
12-24-2010, 04:34 PM
Don't know anything about ractive as I would personally never use it. As for the dealer threatening your warranty thats bogus. If I am not mistaken mazda themselves recomended different oil for the speeds anyways

TheMAN
12-25-2010, 07:14 AM
ractive make cheap stuff, enough said

alho
12-27-2010, 02:30 PM
I guess no real damage was done? Engine still running fine even though idling seems louder now.

One other thing I did notice lately:

I have an auto and for some reason it always shifts way too early, ex when merging onto a highway once the car reaches about 80kph, oit shifts dropping the revs to around 1500 making accelerating really hard. If I don't press on the gas harder to downshift I feel like I am lugging the engine and recently, when I lug it, a high-swirling sound appears. It sounds like as if some fluid or something is boiling or something. Can't really describe it.... I heard it on old hondas before. Does anyone know what that s
ound is and if there's any problems.

TheMAN
12-27-2010, 08:15 PM
I still think you need to take it in to have it looked at