Mazda Motor (2.3L) Casting Codes?

[JackalX3]

I recently purchased a Mazda 2.3L core from Maryland in the US and had it shipped to Toronto (thanks to the guys at JRP who located and informed me about the motor).

Apparently it had spun a bearing and was ripped out of its car and replaced under warranty, or something along those lines (I've never heard of such a thing happening on a Mazda motor built from the factory, but whatever).

This was essentially exactly what I was looking for since I plan to build a fully forged turbo motor. The motor is complete and looks like it's in pretty good shape, but needs to be torn down, machined, etc etc.

Before I start pumping all sorts of money into this motor (machining, parts + my time), I want to make sure it is indeed a 2.3L.

I'm mechanically inclined, but have never ripped into a Mazda motor before. My experience mainly lies with old Chev's (and to a lesser extent, Honda's). As a result, I plan to take my time with this build and learn a great deal as I go.

At this point, all I have is verbal communication that the motor is indeed a 2.3L (for the price I paid, including shipping, it was worth the gamble).

I was hoping that someone may have come across a list of casting codes which indicate which casting belongs to which motor. Also, I am unsure if there are any obvious physical features which easily distinguish it from the 2.0L. I know the VIN number would tell me what motor this is, but unfortunately that information is not available to me.

I've tried my local Mazda dealers and Mazda Canada... No help...
In one of the images of the heads (below), you can see a code cast into the side (BH9G.. ?). My local Mazda dealer and Mazda Canada could not help me decipher this marking.

Any information you may have will be appreciated.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs242.snc6/179038_10100145325119372_28115132_59966781_1041847 _n.jpg

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/167291_10100145324665282_28115132_59966765_4375586 _n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/167998_10100145324166282_28115132_59966742_8153384 _n.jpg

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/167922_10100145323552512_28115132_59966713_5215454 _n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs262.snc6/179062_10100145318687262_28115132_59966508_3847577 _n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs059.snc6/168970_10100145314989672_28115132_59966372_7035722 _n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/168654_10100145314555542_28115132_59966355_1755028 _n.jpg

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs781.ash1/167098_10100145312290082_28115132_59966283_5204859 _n.jpg

[TheMAN]

this is really a ford motor (shouldn't need to remind you since "fomoco" is found all over the place, and I can see one of them already in the pics)
spun bearings is common with the MZR as it burns oil (5W2) and people don't check them enough
the only thing you need to look for are any "L3" markings... anything else is pretty meaningless to us
only the 2.3 has balance shafts... you will need to rip open the oil pan to see

[JackalX3]

Thanks a lot TheMAN.

I know that the motor is produced by Ford (which bothers me quite a bit since I've worked on Chev's all my life and own a '68 Camaro), but fun fact, Mazda engineering actually designed all of Fords small motors. Makes it a little more tolerable, but that's neither here nor there.

I feel like a bit of a tool because it would appear as though I initially posted a bit prematurely. Had I taken the time to clean up the block before posting, I would have found what appear to be the answers to my questions. Regardless, maybe this thread will help someone else in the future.

I've found 'L3' cast into the block, along with a big ol' 2.3L (see why I feel like a tool?). In my defense, a bunch of crud was caked over the markings.
(FYI, L3 is also the first 2 characters in the motor part number, according to my Mazda dealer; L32D02300H)

I also cleaned up bar-codes on the block and the heads. On the heads, you can see the characters 'L3' as you mentioned, where as the bar-code on the block displays '3' (Mazda 3?) followed by '2.3' (displacement?). It also appears to display the production date/time, etc.
I'll let the pictures below speak for themselves.

Anyway, thanks again.
What's troubling is that neither my Mazda dealer nor Mazda Canada were able to tell me about these cast markings or bar-codes...
You'd think they'd know...



Bar-Code On Heads
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180075_10100149113921582_28115132_60052530_3706367 _n.jpg

Bar-Code On Block
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/168018_10100149114211002_28115132_60052537_4438968 _n.jpg

2.3L + 'L3' On Block
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/182792_10100149114465492_28115132_60052542_4307437 _n.jpg

Additional Characters Cast Into Block
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180123_10100149114829762_28115132_60052547_842655_ n.jpg

[TheMAN]

Those numbers are pretty meaningless without knowing what they are... I'm afraid only Ford and Mazda Japan will know. Maybe Mazda USA also as they do have R&D operations in California and Michigan. The only information that is usable is the L3N5 and L3G7, which are part identifier codes that can be found in the parts catalogue.
What I do know is, on Mazda6s, there is a sticker on the side of the valve cover that states where the engine was made... if it says "CHEP", it's made at the Chihuahua, Mexico plant, while "Hiroshima" is obviously in Japan. I don't remember seeing this sticker on the 3 though.

[speed77]

You can always take some measurements and do some math to be 100% sure of what you've got.

pi x radius squared x height = volume of the cylinder
3.14 x 1/2 bore diameter squared x stroke = volume of the cylinder x 4 = engine displacement

[taz4432]

Just curious, what'd you pay for your's? My old one is sitting at Jimmy's (spun a bearing) and although I'd like to pick it up at some point and tear it down just for the fun of it, I would've gladly let someone who's going to make good use of it have it.

If you need a hand at any point, let me know - I love helping out with this stuff. I know the 3's pretty well (spent a good deal of time under mine last summer) and know turbo cars decently as well (spent last summer building a 600+ awhp Eclipse with fully built engine and everything else).

Edit: Any idea what internals you're going to be running and what CR? Also, what are you doing for a crank as I'd recommend NOT using the stock crank if you're going for a fully built engine. I have a balance shaft delete kit that I picked up from Joe (FlipDaddy) which I'd sell to you for what I paid ($20 I think..maybe $30? I have to check). No BSD saves a couple of pounds of rotating mass and a properly built/machined motor shouldn't particularly need the BSD.

[TheMAN]

I agree... if you're going to put some serious power into it, don't use the stock crank... it is cast unlike real mazda motors and the DISI

[JackalX3]

Which numbers do you feel are meaningless TM?

I know exactly what you mean. When I went over my Camaro to ensure it was numbers matching, there were all sorts of digits cast or stamped in various places that meant absolutely nothing. The difference is, people have published books identifying what every character on that car means. I was even able to find explanations to the meaningless codes. I wasn't expecting answers to, for example, what T525I stands for, but I honestly didn't think it would be this difficult to determine the displacement based on casting codes (especially since I called Mazda).

Using some logic and the pointer you gave me earlier TM, I figured my question was pretty much answered. I mean, it's got 2.3L plastered all over the thing along with, as you mentioned, 'L3'. Are you suggesting that even given this information, there is still a chance it's not what I'm looking for?

I knew all along that the 2.3L had balance shafts over the 2.0L and that I could calculate the displacement pretty easily (thanks Speed77). Like I said, I initially posted this question thinking I'd get a direct answer pretty quickly. I didn't realize there were so many unknowns surrounding the casting codes. I figured something would have been published somewhere (either by Mazda or otherwise, as is the case with classic cars), but obviously not.
Just as an example, I was at the office until 11pm last night (engineer at Magna Int.) and haven't had much time in the past couple weeks to get my hands dirty. I'll have to find some time to get the motor on my stand, rip the pan off and turn over the crank to get some measurements.

Taz, I paid $300 USD for the whole thing. Again, the guys at JRP were nice enough to help me source it. Until I asked them, the best I could find was $1,400-$1,500 for motors that MAY still run.. Some guy in Maryland brought it over to their representative there (Tommy), who put it on a skid and sent it up to me. I had to organize my own shipping on top of the $300. Total came out to about $500.

I've started doing some research on internals, but haven't gotten too deep into it (no time lately). Probably Wiseco pistons/rods, etc etc, as recommended by Jeff at Beatty and Woods (he's machined a few Chev motors for me before and has done excellent work; + he gets great prices on components). Nothing is decided 100% though. I want to investigate increasing the bore and resleeving the block, add an extra 2 bolts to each main (if the space exists), etc. I haven't put any thought into a crank yet though because I've heard conflicting things. I've heard from multiple sources that the standard crank is indeed forged, while others such as yourself say that it isn't. I've also heard of people throwing in a Ford Ranger crank along with the balance shaft delete kit. For $20, consider the kit sold if you're looking to get rid of it. Please PM me or email and we can talk further.

Lately, I've been trying to research injectors and cam shafts that will help me meet and optimize my end goal...
Haven't been having all that much luck...
That said, I could use a point in the right direction on a few issues. My biggest problem is the fact that I can't seem to find aftermarket support (or correct information) when it comes to certain components.

...Sorry for the novel of the post. Hope you guys packed a lunch.

[JackalX3]

Update: Finally got around to tearing into this motor...
It was infact equipped with counter-rotating balance shafts.

If anyone has insight on crankshafts, please take a look at the following thread:

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?51104-2.3L-Crankshaft

Any help would be appreciated.