Question On Rim Specs For Different Cars

[KING1307]

Hey all, sooo, not related to mazda's at all but im not sure where else I can ask this question. You'll also have to excuse the fact that I know nothing yet about rims and specs. I have an 2001 audi a4, apparently the bolt pattern is 5 X 112mm. I have a set of rims on the car right now that im trying to sell. They are 18". Now, the person who is trying to buy them off of me has a 2008 lancer which apparently has a bolt pattern which is 5 X 114.3mm. My question is will these rims fit on a 08 lancer? Also, is there any more information that I should be giving you all to answer this besides bolt pattern? Thanks all!

[Rob23]

if the bolt pattern is different then they won't fit. but there is also width, offset, ect.

[KING1307]

if the bolt pattern is different then they won't fit. but there is also width, offset, ect.

okay thanks bud. I guess thread closed?

[breakfasteatre]

wobble nuts do exist

since vw/audi use wheel studs , they have been running different bolt pattern wheels (ie 5x114 on 5x112) using woble studs. THey have a conical washer that seats on the wheel even if the stud is on an angle. I dont really know how it would work but supposedly it does.

[dentinger]

you can buy adapters that will convert your bolt pattern to whatever you want. 5x112 to 5x114.3 is pretty common.

but again, you need to take into consideration width, center bore, and offset.
for example, a 18x8 42 offset will work on a mazda, but a 18x8 20 offset will not.
(offset is how far in or out the wheel is, in millimeters, in relation to the center of the wheel. ie, wheel 2 will stick out 22 mm more than wheel 1)

[Default User]

will not fit.
Bolt size is wrong and center bore is off

[KING1307]

you can buy adapters that will convert your bolt pattern to whatever you want. 5x112 to 5x114.3 is pretty common.

but again, you need to take into consideration width, center bore, and offset.
for example, a 18x8 42 offset will work on a mazda, but a 18x8 20 offset will not.
(offset is how far in or out the wheel is, in millimeters, in relation to the center of the wheel. ie, wheel 2 will stick out 22 mm more than wheel 1)

god this is complicated, but i think im understanding it. ( thanks for all of your patience ) sooo, if im understanding all this, 18 - is obviously height of rim, 8 - is the width of the rim, offset - is how far it'll stick out, smaller offset, the more it'll stick out, and this is all in mm. now for the bolt pattern, 5 - obviously amount of bolts it uses, although what does this number represent? ie. 114.3
is there anything else i should know?
also, while were on the topic, im looking at a set a rims right now, they are:
17 x 8.5 which is 1" smaller yet .5" wider than stock? 5 bolt with 114.3 which is what we need and they have a +48 offset which means they will stick out 4.5mm more than stock which isnt to bad right?
Thanks again to everyone who is helping!

[dentinger]

yes.
18x8, 48 offset, 5x114.3
18 is the height in inches
8 is the width in inches
48 is the offset in millimeters. the lower it is, that farther the wheel will stick in. the higher, the more the wheel will suck in.

5 is how many studs the car has.
114.3 is the distance, in millimeters, from one stud, to the one directly across from it.
-------------

im not too sure about audi's, but i would imagine 17x8.5 would work. audi/vw guys always run super crazy wheel diameters and offset.

[KING1307]

yes.
18x8, 48 offset, 5x114.3
18 is the height in inches
8 is the width in inches
48 is the offset in millimeters. the lower it is, that farther the wheel will stick in. the higher, the more the wheel will suck in.

5 is how many studs the car has.
114.3 is the distance, in millimeters, from one stud, to the one directly across from it.
-------------

im not too sure about audi's, but i would imagine 17x8.5 would work. audi/vw guys always run super crazy wheel diameters and offset.

alright! got it. Now, in your personal opinion, would you say these rims are a good fit for speed3?

[KING1307]

thanks a lot!

[dentinger]

which ones? the 17x8.5 et 48?
the might work, im not sure. others would have to chime in. i havent had my mazda for a while now, but i tihnk that would work good.

[loosecannon]

yes.
18x8, 48 offset, 5x114.3
18 is the height in inches
8 is the width in inches
48 is the offset in millimeters. the lower it is, that farther the wheel will stick OUT. the higher, the more the wheel will suck in.

5 is how many studs the car has.
114.3 is the distance, in millimeters, from one stud, to the one directly across from it.
-------------

im not too sure about audi's, but i would imagine 17x8.5 would work. audi/vw guys always run super crazy wheel diameters and offset.

Just to avoid any confusion.

[dentinger]

my mistake lol

[KING1307]

ya had me for a second there but i figured it out. thanks. haha.

[n00bMeiSter]

yes.
18x8, 48 offset, 5x114.3
18 is the height in inches
8 is the width in inches
48 is the offset in millimeters. the lower it is, that farther the wheel will stick OUT. the higher, the more the wheel will suck in.

5 is how many studs the car has.
114.3 is the distance, in millimeters, from one stud, to the one directly across from it.
-------------

im not too sure about audi's, but i would imagine 17x8.5 would work. audi/vw guys always run super crazy wheel diameters and offset.

Just to avoid any confusion.

Now that's confusing...... a lower offset means it sicks out further into the road, and a higher offset means it sticks further into the wheel well?
The other way around would make a hell of a lot more sense.....
Unless offsets are actually measured as a negative and should actually be posted as a negative......

[DualSoul]

Now that's confusing...... a lower offset means it sicks out further into the road, and a higher offset means it sticks further into the wheel well?
The other way around would make a hell of a lot more sense.....
Unless offsets are actually measured as a negative and should actually be posted as a negative......

It's based off the hub mounting surface in relation to the center of the rim.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Offset_%28wheel%29

[n00bMeiSter]

Ah, see, the wikipedia article makes more sense.

For clarification for all (as there will be others who come across this thread that do not understand):


The offset of a vehicle's wheel is the distance between the centerline of the wheel and the plane of the hub-mounting surface of the wheel. It can thus be either positive or negative, and is typically measured in millimeters. Offset has a significant effect on many elements of a vehicle's suspension, including suspension geometry, clearance between the tire and suspension elements, the scrub radius of the steering system, and visually, the width of the wheel faces relative to the car's bodywork.

Zero Offset - The plane of the hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.
Positive Offset - The plane of the hub mounting surface is shifted from the centerline toward the front or outside of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars.
Negative Offset - The plane of the hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheel's centerline.

"Deep dish" wheels typically have negative offset or a very low positive offset.

To maintain handling characteristics and avoid undue loads on bushings and ball joints, the car manufacturer's original offset should be maintained when choosing new wheels unless there are overriding clearance issues.

Wheels are usually stamped with their offset using the German prefix "ET", meaning "Einpresstiefe" or, literally, "press depth". An example would be "ET45" for a 45mm offset.


Full article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Offset_(wheel)

[notthesnail]

I'm suprised nobody expanded on the center bore issue at all. Ideally, the hub on the car and the bore on the wheel should match. If the bore on the wheel is too small, it won't fit. An adapter might fix that. If the bore is too big, then you should have hub-centric rings to bridge the gap. By not using rings you risk having the wheels mounted off-center, which will vibrate like crazy (almost like having cam shaped wheels).

[n00bMeiSter]

I'm suprised nobody expanded on the center bore issue at all. Ideally, the hub on the car and the bore on the wheel should match. If the bore on the wheel is too small, it won't fit. An adapter might fix that. If the bore is too big, then you should have hub-centric rings to bridge the gap. By not using rings you risk having the wheels mounted off-center, which will vibrate like crazy (almost like having cam shaped wheels).

Good point, forgot about that.