Amp Hookup Help

[MrIon]

I'm trying to improve my system and I came up with the following setup:

Speaker Amp:
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-f4/default
Speakers:
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/spx-17pro
Sub Amp:
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-m6
Sub:
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/swr-t12

Question is how do I hook these up together?

I know that according to crutchfield that my total amperes for both of these amps is 144(approx.) therefore I would need 2 awg power wire. So do I run a 2 awg wire from the battery to a distribution block to the trunk then run two 4 awg wires to each amp (since that's what alpine says it needs). Is this correct?

Now for the ground wire. Should I just use 2 different 4 awg wires and screw them in 2 different locations? if so where's a good spot? or just use a 2 awg wire to a distribution block again?

And for the remote turn on I know that I have to go with a relay, so I don't screw up my headunit.

Finally anybody know of a good 3 way setup? or are these good enough?

[MrIon]

I forgot to mention that I also have a cap. This goes before the distribution block correct?

[gabbygenier]

For the power thats pretty much how i have it wired up. only thing is if the amps alow 2 gauge input id just put the 2 gauge. use the biggest it can take

for the ground i have a distribution block also, and from there i have 2 wires that go to the car, one on each side on the bolts that the rear seats are bolted to the car from. and just use 2 gague from the block to where its grounded. and again, if the amp can take 2 gague input, use it. if not use the biggest input it can take like the power

and the cap goes before the distribution block as you said. or you can hook it up to only the amp for the subs as thats the one that will be drawing all the power, the one for the speakers wont be drawing much. for mine i have it before the distribution block.

remote turn on, do you have an aftermarket deck or the stock deck?

as for the setup, should be good although you dont need component speakers in the back. i would put simple coax ones like these.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/spr-68

[MrIon]

Ok sounds good I'll check on that. So just grab a t-block for 2 awg if they can accept that

I do have an aftermarket deck.. it's the pioneer avic-x910bt.

For the back I already have a pair of coax speakers. I meant to say that those components are for the front.

[gabbygenier]

Yep, if the amps cant take the 2 gauge, if not there are power blocks that have 2 gauge input and 4 gauge or 8 gague output.

then the remote wire should be good to just plug them right from the deck. thats what i did, just take the one from the deck (usually blue wire) and most car RCA's have a wire in the middle of them, run it with that and split it once in the back to both amps.

also just remember to run your power cable on opposite side of the car then the rca's. just so you don't get interference or "noise"

[MrIon]

Ok sounds good. Any good wiring kits out there?

[gabbygenier]

not sure about locally but online you can get them.

if you go to sonixelectronics, they have good prices. or ebay.

one thing is i wouldnt cheap out on the signal cable. you get what you pay for in the end. and no matter how good of amp and head unit you have, if you have shitty cables connecting them together it might not sound as good as you would like it to.

i may still have an rca set with the signal cable at home. you can have it if you want, only thing is youd have to pay for shipping as im in ottawa but let me check before to make sure.


4 channel rca
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20640_Tsunami-X204-17.html

wiring kit 2 gauge.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27657_db-Link-CK2Z.html

rca cable with signal cable.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/RCA-Cable-Remote-Turn-wire-5-Meter-Brand-New-/250876595111?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item3a69690ba7#ht_720wt_1139

6 channel cable.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11211_Monster-Cable-MPC-I306-6C-5M.html

[MrIon]

I think Imma go with this:
http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MPC-I306-6C-5M-6-Channel/dp/product-description/B000BMMOZQ
http://www.amazon.com/DB-Link-CK2Z-Competition-Installation/dp/accessories/B003FGWKL8
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36326_Xscorpion-DGDB0248G.html

Good enough?

[gabbygenier]

that will work good. except i wouldnt bother with the batt terminal that has the voltage displayed on it. i have one, though it was kool. i looked at it once, when i installed it haha

[MrIon]

Its the distribution block that I need no?

[MrIon]

NVm I found a nice whole kit by Jl audio :)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_29469_JL-Audio-XD-PCS2-2B.html
Exactly what I need

[gabbygenier]

There ya go.

The other one was for the batt. You need one that will be in your trunk. Useless to run 2 power wires.

[baymoe]

+1 on a good quality signal cable. Get a good twisted pair set with a solid connector. I previously suffered from alternator noise with a cheap set of cables regardless of my cable placement (power cables/remote turn-on by driver side and signal cables passenger side).

For reference, take a careful look at these cables. The quality connectors and twisted pair construction. I bought my Streetwires via ebay.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15844_StreetWires-ZN9450.html

[Flagrum_3]

Most here sounds pretty good and I'd like to throw in a couple of tips; For one; Do not use a distribution box for your grounds.Get a proper ground bolt and ground all wires directly to the bolt using proper gold plated end connectors, this will prevent future problems.Also cover the ground bolt/connections with Lithium grease afterwards.
Two; it's not minor, I would suggest placing your cap after the dist-block just before your subwoofer amp, the shorter the cable 'run' the better in this connection.Mine is set-up like this and have had no issues for almost 6 years.

Good luck,

_3

[MrIon]

Thanks for all the help guys. So far I bought the JL audio amp kit and the Monster RCA cables.
Question: where's a good place to screw the ground bolt...i really don't wana hit anything important.

[Flagrum_3]

Haha I can't remember exactly where my grounding is done, I'd have to take a look, but I would suggest an internal body part which is directly connected to the subframe and remember you want to keep the cable lengths as short as possible, so somewhere close to all components being grounded.

_3

[baymoe]

Thanks for all the help guys. So far I bought the JL audio amp kit and the Monster RCA cables.
Question: where's a good place to screw the ground bolt...i really don't wana hit anything important.

The seat bolt is a great spot as the diameter is quite substantial for a good ground.

[gabbygenier]

Do not use a distribution box for your grounds.Get a proper ground bolt and ground all wires directly to the bolt using proper gold plated end connectors, this will prevent future problems.Also cover the ground bolt/connections with Lithium grease afterwards.

i found that it actually helped in doing this. i was getting less V draw from the batt like this as opposed to each seperate ground. and +1 on the lithium grease. for the ground bolt. i have these http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20686_Raptor-PHDRT4.html also grounded my batt to the car with 2 gauge wire and one of these instead of hte stock 8 gauge wire


Two; it's not minor, I would suggest placing your cap after the dist-block just before your subwoofer amp, the shorter the cable 'run' the better in this connection.Mine is set-up like this and have had no issues for almost 6 years.


+1 on the shorter cables.


Haha I can't remember exactly where my grounding is done, I'd have to take a look, but I would suggest an internal body part which is directly connected to the subframe and remember you want to keep the cable lengths as short as possible, so somewhere close to all components being grounded.

_3

the 2 of mine are where the seats bolt down to the car, all i did was sand the paint off to make good contact and ive never had issues with it. i know a few other ppl that have done it there and no issues.

[MrIon]

OK good stuff. Can't wait until I get all of my items+the sound proofing materials to take the whole car apart and organize everything nicely. I only wish my rear seats had that folding center console so I could punch throuhg for the sub :(. but oh well.
My other plan is to integrate a fake floor to put the amps and cap and everything then a ported box for the sub. Gotta find a way to make it stand up so I can access the spare tire if I need to..should be interesting.

[gabbygenier]

personally i dont like the fake floor idea. no air for the amps to breathe if u put something overtop and also if you dont, you cant put anything over them. although i never put anything in my trunk. and its a pain to get the spare if you need it.

heres what i did. i can still access my spare if i need to. just enough room to get it out with the piece cut out on the bottom. you can see some of the wires but i have yet to clean them up haha. its dirty in there lol. i will eventuially take it down and all the wires will be under the tray.

also another advantage to what i did. GOOD LUCK getting anything out. you HAVE to take the tray off to take the sub box out and the only way the sub box comes out is by the front of the car.

http://i354.photobucket.com/albums/r418/gabbygenier/edce651d.jpg

[Flagrum_3]

i found that it actually helped in doing this. i was getting less V draw from the batt like this as opposed to each seperate ground. and +1 on the lithium grease. for the ground bolt. i have these http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20686_Raptor-PHDRT4.html also grounded my batt to the car with 2 gauge wire and one of these instead of hte stock 8 gauge wire



+1 on the shorter cables.



the 2 of mine are where the seats bolt down to the car, all i did was sand the paint off to make good contact and ive never had issues with it. i know a few other ppl that have done it there and no issues.

I didn't mean separate grounds for each component, I meant all grounds running to one bolt.The Stinger kit I bought came with a dedicated grounding bolt.My system is set-up different being my car is a hatch.Amps, distribution block are on my tray, cap in tool-tray.Check out my profile for pics.

I also remembered another thing I did; Along with separating the power and signal wire runs, running each up opposite sides of the car, I also twisted the signal wires every 8" inches or so, this cuts down on any electromagnetic interference caused by the wires themselfs from building.Maybe a little anal but it's simple and worth doing in my opinion.

Oh by the way Nice set-up ;-)

_3

[MrIon]

What do u mean by twisting the signal wires? Like literraly twist the wire? I never heard about this.

[gabbygenier]

I didn't mean separate grounds for each component, I meant all grounds running to one bolt.The Stinger kit I bought came with a dedicated grounding bolt.My system is set-up different being my car is a hatch.Amps, distribution block are on my tray, cap in tool-tray.Check out my profile for pics.

ahh. i get what you meant now and makes sense. thats what i had before though and then i changed my distribution block for my power and used the old one for the grounds, that helped a lot. then i added another grounding point to the car from the block later on and that also helped.

i forgot the hatches had that tray thing. thats a perfect spot for amps and stuff and if done properly you can take the spare out easy. nice work and looks clean.



I also remembered another thing I did; Along with separating the power and signal wire runs, running each up opposite sides of the car, I also twisted the signal wires every 8" inches or so, this cuts down on any electromagnetic interference caused by the wires themselfs from building.Maybe a little anal but it's simple and worth doing in my opinion.

Oh by the way Nice set-up ;-)

_3

thats an idea. but i couldnt do that since my signal wire was part of my RCA cable. i have yet to have issues with that though. the FIRST amp i got for my speakers (3rd one now) was an MTX one and i had sooo much altenator noise it drove me crazy. but once i changed the amp it was gone so something was wrong with the amp

[Flagrum_3]

MRIon; Yeap just basically when your running the wire, every so often create a twist with all wires (as they do with twisted-pair wiring) and if you really want to get anal; you would get split-loom-tubing to protect your signal wires from the elements or same-type tubing but with a flatter profile.There is an abundance of different styles of tubing available now, search the Internet.But I personally think it's a better practice then leaving the wiring alone.

_3

[MrIon]

I decided to actually go with a 3-way setup from Focal:
http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_12468_Focal-165A3-6-1-2-inch-3-Way-Access-A3-Series-Component-Car-Speakers-System-165-A3-.html

Anybody sees anything wrong with the amp that I selected if I go with these speakers?

[JayJay18]

Well first off your deck should have a remote turn on in the wiring harness.
Secondly you can buy a 6 pair twisted RCA cable w/thick jacket and remote wire built it, i believe it was at East hamilton radio. this will bring front, rear and sub outputs from your deck to your amps in then trunk.
Thirdly, upgrade your battery is always a good option with a big 3 upgrade aswell.
Fourth, bring a 0 gauge to the rear from your positive and negative to a distribution block with 4 gauge wire to your amps for ground and power.
Fifth, you definetely will want a sound processor especially with a 3way setup. the alpine imprint would be a good choice for you.
Sixth, 16 gauge speaker wire to all your locations for your new speakers.

I can go on and on, all i can say is you need a plan.
Im currently working on a 3way active setup with all Alpine and itll be great when its done but it requires ALOT of money and time.

My last question is what do you want to gain out of this, this is the most important questions of them all

[MrIon]

Money is not really a problem from me, but then again I don't want to spend crazy amounts of dollers for little improvement. As far as why i want a 3-way is mostly cause of looks, but I believe that it will sound better as we have different frequencies being handle by the supported speaker.
That was my next question, if with this setup a sound processor will make any difference, I mean big improvement, because I don't want to spend money on one just so I can adjust every little edge to not even being able to notice it.
I'm mostly aiming for sound quality with a nice bass in the back. I don't always bump up the bass, but when I want that I could do it.

[MrIon]

btw is this the imprint you're talking about:
http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_8840_Alpine-KTX-100EQ-IMPRINT-inch-Audio-Tuning-Kit-for-Alpine-CDA-9887-Imprint-MultiEQ-Head-Unit.html

[JayJay18]

http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_11355_Alpine-PXE-H660-Imprint-System-Integration-Sound-Processor.html
THIS ONE


btw is this the imprint you're talking about:
http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_8840_Alpine-KTX-100EQ-IMPRINT-inch-Audio-Tuning-Kit-for-Alpine-CDA-9887-Imprint-MultiEQ-Head-Unit.html

[JayJay18]

with a 3way system you NEED a sound processor and a very good one, it helps reduce distortion

as far as i know, a front 6.5 component set and a 2 way rear fill 6x8 should suffice for your needs, with a imprint processor.
The imprint sets everything up for you, no tweeking required.
Also 3 way setup requires you to custom fiberglass a-pillars for the speakers.

[Flagrum_3]

I decided to actually go with a 3-way setup from Focal:
http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_12468_Focal-165A3-6-1-2-inch-3-Way-Access-A3-Series-Component-Car-Speakers-System-165-A3-.html

Anybody sees anything wrong with the amp that I selected if I go with these speakers?

Nice speakers, but why 3-way? A little complicating for my taste anyways as i tend to believe the KISS system should be used with audio systems also. The amp is just about right for those though, just keep the gain down.

_3

[JayJay18]

im going to tell you plain and simple, pick one of the following.

1.) you want sound quality no matter what the cost and work to complete your audio system. (3way active, complicated to setup and time consuming)
2.) you want a system without compremising your wallet and spending alot of time on it. something that will perform very well without losing all the sound quality (best option for average install and great sounding system
3.) you want to spend minimal money and time on it and just slap in the components and rear fill with sub in the oem spots and be done with it. (budget equipment and slap it in and leave it alone.)

Once you pick one we can whey the options and have a starting point for yourself.

[MrIon]

Ok guys thanks for all of your help. If it's that complicated I'll just go with my original speakers and I'll just add the processor JayJay18 told me.
I wanted to do this all by myself, because I love messing around with the car, so if it gets to complicated then there's no point in wasting more money to get the 3way and have to go to a sound place to get it install(and get charged a nice premium).

But ya here's the items so far which should be ordered today:
Multi Channel AMP: Alpine PDXF4
Mono Channel AMP: Alpine PDXM6
2way Speakers: Alpine SPX17PRO
Coaxil Speakers: JL Audio TR570CXi(already had these so I'll just used them in the rear)
Shallow 12" Sub: Alpine SWRT12
Audio Processor: Alpine PXEH660

[JayJay18]

Great choices you will not be dissapointed.
http://www.audiointegrations.net/catalog/item/7506439/7899034.htm
i suggest this box as my buddy had it and it looks wicked
http://freire.ca/forsale/7.jpg
Also grab some 16gauge speaker wire. 50ft should suffice for fronts and rears. this guy is in brampton aswell
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Monster-50-ft-Speaker-Cable-XLN-16-AWG-Wire-20-30-40-BN-/280614186615?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item4155e8ae77
and also visit east hamilton radio and look for your RCA cables. there is one that i have by Audison that has 6RCAs in on sleeve with a remote wire turn on built into the sleeve.
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/201299642/RCA_cable_with_remote_wire.jpg
something like this but with 6RCA, 2 for front, 2 for rear and 2 for sub

If you need help on where to start give me a PM

[MrIon]

I already bought these RCA cables :http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MPC-I306-6C-5M-6-Channel/dp/product-description/B000BMMOZQ
and this amp kit:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...D-PCS2-2B.html

[MrIon]

I mean this amp kit*:http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_29469_JL-Audio-XD-PCS2-2B.html

[MrIon]

Is it ok for the speaker wire to touch the power cable?

[gabbygenier]

unless you run your power cable in the middle of the car (requires taking the inside apart) you dont have much of a choice to do this. ive never had issues with doing this

[JayJay18]

you want speaker wire and power wire completely apart from each other, including your RCA cables.
My suggestion is running your power on you passengers side and RCAs and speaker wire on the left.
Your other options is running your RCAs on the drivers side, speaker wire down the middle because its very small wire, and your power wire on your passenger side seeing as the waterproof gromet from the engine bay to the inside of the car is behind the glove box.
Now if you dont want alot of work you can look into running the power wire under the car in some flex conduit at home depot to protect it

[JayJay18]

those rcas should be fine, but you might want to look into an alternative distribution block.
You will need 2 power wires for the amps and one for the sound processor.
this requires a 0awg input from the batter and then 2 4awg for the amps and a 8awg or higher for the sound processor

[gabbygenier]

you want speaker wire and power wire completely apart from each other, including your RCA cables.
My suggestion is running your power on you passengers side and RCAs and speaker wire on the left.
Your other options is running your RCAs on the drivers side, speaker wire down the middle because its very small wire, and your power wire on your passenger side seeing as the waterproof gromet from the engine bay to the inside of the car is behind the glove box.
Now if you dont want alot of work you can look into running the power wire under the car in some flex conduit at home depot to protect it


explain how youre going to get the speaker wire from one side of the car to the other for the speakers? youll have to have them cross at some point. and unless its going under the carpet youll be able to see it. and IMO i wouldnt want that.

[baymoe]

explain how youre going to get the speaker wire from one side of the car to the other for the speakers? youll have to have them cross at some point. and unless its going under the carpet youll be able to see it. and IMO i wouldnt want that.

It would be extremely difficult to do so and in most cases just the signal cables are separated from the power lines.

[JayJay18]

It would be extremely difficult to do so and in most cases just the signal cables are separated from the power lines.

No not difficult at all as i have taken my whole dash apart and tried it already.
signal from and to have to be separated.
best suggestion is run your power lines under the car tucked nicely and protected.
another one if you want to run the power inside is put the power wire under the carpet with all the other oem wires, then run your speaker wire along the edge of the floor where the carpet stops and the trim panels cover, just as long as they are not touching you should be ok.

[MrIon]

those rcas should be fine, but you might want to look into an alternative distribution block.
You will need 2 power wires for the amps and one for the sound processor.
this requires a 0awg input from the batter and then 2 4awg for the amps and a 8awg or higher for the sound processor
Oh crap I forgot about that power to the sound processor...Whatever I'll figure something out.

And as far as running wires...this shouldn't be a problem as I'm taking my whole car apart to put sound proofing material... So I'll find a way to seprate the wires from the power cables.
To get the power cable inside the to the firewall, You said that it's under the glovebox?

[gabbygenier]

Oh crap I forgot about that power to the sound processor...Whatever I'll figure something out.

And as far as running wires...this shouldn't be a problem as I'm taking my whole car apart to put sound proofing material... So I'll find a way to seprate the wires from the power cables.
To get the power cable inside the to the firewall, You said that it's under the glovebox?

well if youre taking the whole thing apart i would run it in the middle of the car under the carpet.

there is a gromet by the glovebox and there is also a spot to run it by the steering wheel. i ran mine by the steering wheel. ill try and find the writeups for where the gromets are. unless you have a 2010+ then im not 100% sure if there is some in the same spots

[MrIon]

It's a 2006, so we're all good.

[JayJay18]

if you want to feed the power wire, it is easier behind the glove box because you have lots of room to work.
the one behind the steering will is a little tricky not alot of room.
The one behind the glove box has a little nipple on the oem gromit which you can cut off and run the power through there.
You will see when you take everything apart