Driver Side Power Window NOT WORKING!!

[Tokic_o]

Sooo mines a 2007 mazda 3 GT hatchback.

car has about 106,000km on it.

A few months back I noticed occasionaly (very rarely though) my driver side power window wouldn't roll back up when I pull the switch. I thought nothing of it because it was very rare.

However, as of a month ago my driver side power window suddenly decides not to roll back up when I pull the switch almost every time. I have to pull the switch numerous times until I get a lucky one where the window starts going back up. Heres the catch, the window goes down perfectly fine !!:bang

Have any of you guys had this problem too? What exactly IS the problem? The power window goes down fine every time it just doesn't like to go up until i hit the button 100 times....

My car's not under warranty anymore btw.

Now I'm afraid to go through car washes incase I put my ticket in then i can't get my damn window up :bang

[greaves82]

Sounds like either theres a problem with the switch itself or the wiring between the switch and the power window actuator

[peterm15]

Do you get any sound when trying to roll it up?
A click a buzz ect.

[Tokic_o]

Do you get any sound when trying to roll it up?
A click a buzz ect.

no, no sounds at all when i roll up or down.

the other 3 windows work perfectly time up and down... lol

[peterm15]

Sounds like a connection to me. May be as simple as a loose plug.

[Tokic_o]

any suggestions where I could bring it to get checked out?

would Jimmy have any knowledge/expertise with this kinda electrical issue?

[peterm15]

Check it out yourself first.

Look for a DIY door panel removal. Push all the plugs in tight and get er done. If it works no need to pay someone. If not then try Jimmy, or a auto glass place.

[Cosmo77]

80% of the time its the power window motor....the other 20% of the time its the switch. Loose connections only occur during t-bone's on that connector

[peterm15]

80% of the time its the power window motor....the other 20% of the time its the switch. Loose connections only occur during t-bone's on that connector

I agree but seeing as there is no sound coming from the motor IMO it's better to check connection first then deal with parts if needed.

[TheMAN]

easiest thing to do is to just get a test light and see if it lights up when you press the switch... that itself lets you know whether the wiring and switch is bad or not

[Manpreet]

mine does the same thing to, but its weird in the winter it acts up and in the summer its fine, i just keep hitting the inside door panel with the switch held to roll up and hit the panel till it starts to work again

[Cosmo77]

I agree but seeing as there is no sound coming from the motor IMO it's better to check connection first then deal with parts if needed.

A lot of times when its the motor there is no noise from the motor. Just check the connector at the motor. If there is power on both sides of the connector when you switch "up" or "down" then it is the motor.

Actually the motor is cheaper then the switch LOL!

[xxSlidewaysxx]

I had my switch go, warrenty thou........ the fact that you see this in the winter is due to condensation/freezing etc....... check the switch... my symptoms were the same

[awhoy]

Most likely is the switch. I had the same problem a while back. Changing the switch is easy, don't even need to take out the door panel. You can temporarily swap the switch from another MZ3 and confirm if indeed is a problem with the switch before buying one.

[bluemazda3]

I had this problem.. my drivers side wouldnt go up, only by chance it went up.. this is during winter and summer.. no noise and anything.. so I took it in to a mazda dealer.. said they couldnt replicate because at that time wa intermitted.. than it got worse so went into Budd's Mazda (QEW) and asked Katie about it and she put a ticket out for warranty and it got approved!! so basically mine was the switch.. replaced that and no problems at all..

[crystal8484]

My issue is my rear passenger window doesn't go down sometimes. Have to pull the switch a couple of times. No issues with it rolling up. Gahhh, these cars I tell ya.

[RJzMazda3]

Same thing happened to my 2007 Mazda3 GT, going down was no problem, but when it was time to go up, OHHH MYYYY it sucked. Sometimes it took me a solid 5 minutes just for the window to go up. I would hit the button millions of times, but it was all luck.Sometimes on the 20th try it would work and go up, then the 89th try, 6th, 50th, and soooooo on. It was helllla annoying.

All my other windows worked perfectly fine though.

Oh and about washing the car, open the door and insert your ticket, i did that lol.

i was told by the dealer it was the "switch" that needed to be repaired and not the motor, but they said they would only know once they inspect my car. I didn't bother to fix it though because i was over 100,000km and i knew i was going to trade my car in soon.

[Hoodzy]

If the window is moving one way.. it's the switch..
My moonroof switch did this to me on my mx-3.. it would open but wouldn't shut. Just need a new switch assembly. If it was a loose connection you wouldn't be able to open it.. as it runs through the same connector.

[rl777]

i still have this problem, with my driver door window. i have learned that by "pressing" the up keys on other winodws it seems to help with the driver window going up faster (time wise). if i were to only push up on the driver window- like stated before i may be there for 5 minutes trying to put the window up

[mprus]

THIS is a DIY on how to fix this problem if your driver window goes down, but not back up. or it does, but after clicking it after a while.....

The solution is to :

1. First take of the door handle inside off. There is 1 screw holding the door handle inside black plastic piece. You have to take out another screw located at the handle bar of your door panel . Disconnect connection of the lock once the black plastic piece of your door handle is off.

2. There will be at least 6 tabs holding the door. Once you get these tabs off the with the door panel, you will have to unclip the wires that are connected to the main power unit and mirror power unit.Disconnect these wire.

3. Now that the door panel is off. Take it inside or wherever you like and have a beer. :)

3. Now using a phillips screwdriver, there will be 3 screws holding your front left,front right and rear windows. Unscrew them and take out that piece.

4. I believe that there is 5-6 mini screws that need to be also taken out to get to the main switch board. Once you have taken those little screws out, you will remove the black plastic housing, and then pull on the silver connectors to lift of underneath components.

5. The problem with my car and probably most cars, if it is the switch is, there is grease that is put on these little white tabs of the left front drivers side. This grease is old that it has prevented to switch to roll back and forth. If you have grease, please apply, but what I did, since i don't have any, is I cleaned out that old grease with toilet paper and assembled everything back together. Connected everything back the way I took it apart. And there we go. EASY FIXX

Hope this help :)

[dentinger]

If the window is moving one way.. it's the switch..


bingo.

[n00bMeiSter]

THIS is a DIY on how to fix this problem if your driver window goes down, but not back up. or it does, but after clicking it after a while.....

The solution is to :

1. First take of the door handle inside off. There is 1 screw holding the door handle inside black plastic piece. You have to take out another screw located at the handle bar of your door panel . Disconnect connection of the lock once the black plastic piece of your door handle is off.

2. There will be at least 6 tabs holding the door. Once you get these tabs off the with the door panel, you will have to unclip the wires that are connected to the main power unit and mirror power unit.Disconnect these wire.

3. Now that the door panel is off. Take it inside or wherever you like and have a beer. :)

3. Now using a phillips screwdriver, there will be 3 screws holding your front left,front right and rear windows. Unscrew them and take out that piece.

4. I believe that there is 5-6 mini screws that need to be also taken out to get to the main switch board. Once you have taken those little screws out, you will remove the black plastic housing, and then pull on the silver connectors to lift of underneath components.

5. The problem with my car and probably most cars, if it is the switch is, there is grease that is put on these little white tabs of the left front drivers side. This grease is old that it has prevented to switch to roll back and forth. If you have grease, please apply, but what I did, since i don't have any, is I cleaned out that old grease with toilet paper and assembled everything back together. Connected everything back the way I took it apart. And there we go. EASY FIXX

Hope this help :)


That is the most amount of work I have seen done to take out a switch that you can pop off with the door still intact.






That being said, the first gen driver side window cluster requires a precision Torx driver if you wish to take it apart. You are correct about the two white tabs, they can get stuck if the grease somehow "dries" up, for lack of a better word.

After swaping Tokic_o's switch out with a spare switch I have, I took his apart to investigate. I will have pictures and a video uploaded when I have more time to finish my write up.