infrequent startup issues on 2011 mazda 3

[nguy3nha]

Hi, i'm having an issue with starting up my car. It doesnt happen often, maybe 1-3 times a week. Basically, i would insert the key and turn the key to ignition to start the car. Normally, it will start up right away and rev to about 2k rpm instantly before dropping back to about 600 rpm .. However, sometimes when i start the car, it doesnt rev to 2000 rpm.. It will have a gurgle gurgle sound and then then rev slowly from 0 - 1000 rpm within a span of like 2-3 seconds and then drops back down to 600 rpm.. This happens on a cold, warm and hot day so i don't think it's a weather issue.

My scangauge reads 12 volts when the engine is off and 14.1 volts when the engine is running, so i don't think it's a battery or alternator issue.

[Flagrum_3]

It doesn't sound like a electrical issue as it starts. A slow rise to proper revolutions at startup along with your gurgling sounds seem or sound like to be a fuel flow issue. You may have an issue with the PSV (Purge solenoid valve) leaking or some other fuel delivery issue such as a sticky valve in the intake.

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[nguy3nha]

It doesn't sound like a electrical issue as it starts. A slow rise to proper revolutions at startup along with your gurgling sounds seem or sound like to be a fuel flow issue. You may have an issue with the PSV (Purge solenoid valve) leaking or some other fuel delivery issue such as a sticky valve in the intake.

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i'll just continue driving with this problem until the car refuses to start up.. i doubt mazda will be able to solve this if it cannot be replicated at the dealership..

[Flagrum_3]

i'll just continue driving with this problem until the car refuses to start up.. i doubt mazda will be able to solve this if it cannot be replicated at the dealership..

You could also look around your PSV for any signs of leakage, you gotta look close cause it's very slight leakage ususally.

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[Booter22]

i have something similar that happens but it does only happen if on the night before i dont let the car warm up - say to move it from the road to the drive way. then in the morning it is not so happy to be started. see if you notice this mor so after a short trip or drive.

[Astig02]

Sorry to revive this thread.

I have been having issue as well with a 2011 2.5L. When the key is turned, the car would just gurgle and not start. There are times it was "barely" making it to start ( like the engine is struggling). Recently, i noticed that even if the car is warm while on park, it idle just a little above 1K rpm which i believed was below 1k before.

The car is only 3 years old and maintenance schedule is followed. I would like to know if this is something out of ordinary and that can lead to major problems .
any thoughts?

[Jackal]

New battery required?

[TheMAN]

clean the throttle body then reset the ECU
if it still does that, take it in for an ECU flash upgrade

[rajin929]

i have something similar that happens but it does only happen if on the night before i dont let the car warm up - say to move it from the road to the drive way. then in the morning it is not so happy to be started. see if you notice this mor so after a short trip or drive.

happened to me as well this past weekend, i just started the car and moved from garage to driveway.
with the cold damp wet weekend, went to start the car next morning and didn't want to crank over, layed on it for a while before it finally caught and started up

[Booter22]

Could need a battery i know my 2010 needs one. Its at 350 cca

[sarujo]

Booter22 is that from testing your battery? Does it start slowly in the cold now? My 2010 factory battery still seems to be ok thus far...


Could need a battery i know my 2010 needs one. Its at 350 cca

[Astig02]

clean the throttle body then reset the ECU
if it still does that, take it in for an ECU flash upgrade
I have to research how to do this. I will give it a shot.


New battery required?
How do I diagnose if a need a new battery?

Lately, there were numerous times that the car does not start on first try. Could it be the spark plugs? maybe need some cleaning or need replacement?

Also, I am not sure if this it is related, but a few times, i could not lock or unlock the car using the keyfob even if i am standing next to the car. There were times that i cannot lock the car. Sometimes out of frustration, i just leave it ( when park underground at work). The times that i cannot unlock the car are much frustrating than locking it specially with this cold weather coming in.

I apologize for the rant. I guess I complain too much about minor things, but it is very inconvenient.

[genericmoniker]

In response to not locking/unlocking, that's 100% has to do with the keyfob battery. It's like 6-7 bucks to replace, just buy the proper battery at Wal-Mart, pop the key apart, and replace the battery.

[Booter22]

Booter22 is that from testing your battery? Does it start slowly in the cold now? My 2010 factory battery still seems to be ok thus far...

Yea its getting slow when it was ar9und 10 below. So i went to budds and got a new one and some fresh 2014 wiper blades for the 2010

[Noobster12]

I own a 2012 Mazda 3 and I seem to be having the same issue.. If I just move it from a road to my driveway then I start it again after couple of hours or the next day it would have a very low start. It seems as if the battery is not giving enough power to crank it up properly. Especially now in the cold, it's been happening for the past couple of days. It wouldn't start as it use to back when it wasn't as cold. I have yet to check my batteries but I will follow as what was told in here to check. I have a maintenance coming soon from the dealership but I'm scared they might charge me more just to fix it when I could probably do it myself...

Has anyone come up with the solution to this problem?
Thanks!

[Canadianbacon]

2010 GT here started my car this morning after a day pretty much, sounded like it was half dead barley started. Its a new battery not an issue went up to 1800RPM then went down

[Flagrum_3]

2010 GT here started my car this morning after a day pretty much, sounded like it was half dead barley started. Its a new battery not an issue went up to 1800RPM then went down

That's pretty normal with a regular type battery and so is the revs going up to 1800rpm 'momentarily'. A normal wet type battery will loose approximately 50% of its charge at -18C temps or there abouts. So if your car sits out in these temps for a day or two don't expect instant starts.

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[sarujo]

About 4.75years on my original factory Panasonic battery (2010 hatch) and she has been turning over in a single quick crank the last couple of days. :) Underground parking at home and a 35km highway drive to work and it sits all day outside. I guess the 0W20 synthetic, daily long drives and keeping battery water levels maintained has helped out.

[Flagrum_3]

About 4.75years on my original factory Panasonic battery (2010 hatch) and she has been turning over in a single quick crank the last couple of days. :) Underground parking at home and a 35km highway drive to work and it sits all day outside. I guess the 0W20 synthetic, daily long drives and keeping battery water levels maintained has helped out.

Well there's always variables to everything. :) My OEM lasted 9 years lol...and never once not managed to start the car. Driving habits, accessories used are among a couple of the variables you need to think about I guess. But with this cold it should be expected to loose battery performance, unless you have a AGM battery. ;)


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[sarujo]

Well there's always variables to everything. :) My OEM lasted 9 years lol...and never once not managed to start the car. Driving habits, accessories used are among a couple of the variables you need to think about I guess. But with this cold it should be expected to loose battery performance, unless you have a AGM battery. ;)


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A fresh Kirkland 24F is rated at 700 CCA (-18C) which is damn good if you ask me. :) What happens at -19C and colder - is the loss algorithmic in nature or more linear?

[Jackal]

A fresh Kirkland 24F is rated at 700 CCA (-18C) which is damn good if you ask me. :) What happens at -19C and colder - is the loss algorithmic in nature or more linear?

Hmmm. More pythagoreic than anything really.

[sarujo]

Hmmm. More pythagoreic than anything really.

LOL :P I meant exponential :P

[Flagrum_3]

A fresh Kirkland 24F is rated at 700 CCA (-18C) which is damn good if you ask me. :) What happens at -19C and colder - is the loss algorithmic in nature or more linear?

That's a pretty good rating! I can only guess it would stay linear to a certain extent, as most all liquid batteries.


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