Funny knock when start after standing for few days?

[Pieter]

Hi, I got a 2007 Mazda 3 2.3 with 48500Km on the clock. If it stand for a phew days it got a funny knocking noise in the engin but disapear shortly aftyer start up. Then it appear again between 3000 to 4500 RPM? What might be the problem? Any body got the same trouble?

Regards
Pieter

[silverstarmazda]

check the oil, if its low top it up. it might be cuz the oil has drained to the bottom and hasnt recirculated though everything yet.

[TheMAN]

when was the last time you changed your oil? and what oil filter did you use?
crappy oil filters (such as fram) causes oil pressure issues, which is responsible for such noise

[silverstarmazda]

when was the last time you changed your oil? and what oil filter did you use?
crappy oil filters (such as fram) causes oil pressure issues, which is responsible for such noise

wait...fram causes an issue with our cars? i mean i know fram is for For Retards And Morons. but i never heard them cause an issue for the cartridge filter type

[TheAnswer_03]

Is the K&N filter good?

[silverstarmazda]

Is the K&N filter good?

K&N filters are really high quality but i never really heard anyone using the K&N oil filters since theyre hard to find...im gonna use a wix filter next oil change. any issue that arises from the cartridge filter type would really be from the flow rate the filter is at. the higher the flow rate the easier oil passes through and the other was around. if the oil pump works too hard, itll start causing problems. last time i checked, i think G16 can order a K&N oil filter for u, but im sure you can pick up a good filter at a part store

[TheAnswer_03]

K&N filters are really high quality but i never really heard anyone using the K&N oil filters since theyre hard to find...im gonna use a wix filter next oil change. any issue that arises from the cartridge filter type would really be from the flow rate the filter is at. the higher the flow rate the easier oil passes through and the other was around. if the oil pump works too hard, itll start causing problems. last time i checked, i think G16 can order a K&N oil filter for u, but im sure you can pick up a good filter at a part store

I'm using a K&N oil filter at the moment, just wanted to see what others thought of them. Is there any noticeable driving improvement with a high flow oil filter or it's easier for the car? My 3 does drive smoother but I had other maintenance done at the same time of putting in the K&N oil filter which also improved drive quality. I ordered my K&N filters from amazon.com (US site).

[silverstarmazda]

well there wont be any difference if the flow rate is a bit different... its wen its too low itll make the oil pump work harder. i saw a vid on youtube about K&N oil filter and they seem pretty good. just dont get the reusable one.... with that said, the other way around wouldnt make much of a difference. however if the flow rate is too high, theres a chance it wont filter properly or the filter element might get crushed.

[TheMAN]

wait...fram causes an issue with our cars? i mean i know fram is for For Retards And Morons. but i never heard them cause an issue for the cartridge filter type

you never saw a twisted cartridge oil filter? :rolleyes

[krimsalt]

Back on topic - it sounds like a bad lifter somewhere on the cam. It explains why it goes away after a while (oil goes to top of engine and lubricates it), as well as why even when its gone it starts up again at high revs

[silverstarmazda]

you never saw a twisted cartridge oil filter? :rolleyes

lol they all do that wen it comes the time to change the old filter, even OEM and brand name.

[silverstarmazda]

Back on topic - it sounds like a bad lifter somewhere on the cam. It explains why it goes away after a while (oil goes to top of engine and lubricates it), as well as why even when its gone it starts up again at high revs

that sounds about right, could it be that the oil settled down and wen he started it up he damaged one of the lifters? its kinda like storing a classic wen u dont run it, i gotta hand crank the engine every other month..

[TheMAN]

these engines don't use hydraulic lifters, so bad lifter is NOT the cause

[silverstarmazda]

i kno the lexus does does that..i nvr worked on a mazda 3 engine. mybe the timing is off??

[TheMAN]

the "rattling" sound could also be the VVT actuator... a warranty extension is now out for the DISI Turbo engines for bad VVT actuators, but it does not apply to non-turbos like what the OP has...
but if he doesn't stick his head under the hood to try to pinpoint where the noise is coming from, we can't help him any further except speculate... it could be a "dry start" from crappy oil and crappy filter, which causes the rods to knock a little on cold starts, it could be the VVT actuator, it could be an actual rod knock, it could be the intake manifold flaps, it could be anything!

[silverstarmazda]

the "rattling" sound could also be the VVT actuator... a warranty extension is now out for the DISI Turbo engines for bad VVT actuators, but it does not apply to non-turbos like what the OP has...
but if he doesn't stick his head under the hood to try to pinpoint where the noise is coming from, we can't help him any further except speculate... it could be a "dry start" from crappy oil and crappy filter, which causes the rods to knock a little on cold starts, it could be the VVT actuator, it could be an actual rod knock, it could be the intake manifold flaps, it could be anything!

^this

[Prima Tech Aaron]

I would bet money you have a bad rod bearings. the knocking noise on start up, and the knocking at 3000 to 4500. probably get knocking with hard acelleration or engine rev.

[Pieter]

It is not on reving it, it can be heared clearly when i take my foot of the pedal and the revs drop! The oil was change with no improvment and it sound to me if the noise is on the pulley side and it don't go away when the engin is hot nor does the sound change.

Pieter

[Prima Tech Aaron]

the only other thing I can think off is a bad a/c compressor clutch. I've had one that sounded like engine knock. you can see the rubber dampers melted and deformed on the front of the clutch. the belt is a self tensioning belt so you'd have to cut it to remove it if you don't have the tool.

[Pieter]

Hi all, thanks for the help and advice. After we start to strip it from the top we found a badly worn out bearing on number 4 piston. Look like the oil pump was nasty so we replace it, the rings, mains and big ends. Lucky for me the cranck jurnals are still fine, was poslished and we busy to assemble again.

Regards
Pieter