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View Full Version : Cobb stage 1 running too rich?



ETOMS3
06-08-2012, 11:37 PM
Hey guys,

I recently bought a Cobb AP but it keeps giving me a check engine light when I'm running "stg 1 Cobb intake". I'm using an ultimate racing intake (there is no specific map for that intake) so I figured the Cobb intake map would be ok. Is there a map that will not give me "running too rich" check engine light - or should I just keeping trying other intake maps and see which one works best?

Any feed back would be great - thanks!

SomeGuy
06-10-2012, 01:39 PM
Do the MAF calibration first.

loki
06-10-2012, 08:20 PM
Make sure your intake is on properly

If its loose and air is escaping, would cause the car to run rich and trip the cel

ETOMS3
06-10-2012, 11:53 PM
Yeah the MAF calibration sounds like a good idea. I have read a lot of ppl doing it them selves - im not too familiar. Can i take it to a tuning shop? Any recommended places?

SomeGuy
06-11-2012, 11:14 AM
Make sure your intake is on properly

If its loose and air is escaping, would cause the car to run rich and trip the cel

This. All the way from your MAF sensor through to the throttle body, not just the "intake" itself.


Yeah the MAF calibration sounds like a good idea. I have read a lot of ppl doing it them selves - im not too familiar. Can i take it to a tuning shop? Any recommended places?

And yes, there are a few sponsors on here that can do a great job tuning your car if you don't want to learn or risk it yourself.

Lockdown
06-11-2012, 08:09 PM
Wouldn't a leak make it run lean? Un-metered air getting by without the fuel support?

SomeGuy
06-11-2012, 08:51 PM
In NA cars yes, but with positive pressure any leak is lost air not getting to the combustion chamber that was metered. Therefore the amount of fuel added will be too much for what has actually made it and you run rich.

Lockdown
06-11-2012, 08:53 PM
What is the engine code?

Every time I've had a leak or fixed one for someone, no matter, N/A or boosted, it's always run lean.
I guess it's possible

breakfasteatre
06-11-2012, 09:02 PM
maf registers an amount of air
tells computer to inject an amount of fuel in relation to how much air it just registered
at some point after the maf, air has leaked out, so that less air than registered is getting to the combustion chamber
air fuel ratio = air/fuel basically

since the higher the number, the leaner the afr, if the value for air becomes smaller, the afr becomes smaller, and in turn the afr is richer

Lockdown
06-11-2012, 09:03 PM
LOL, I'm well aware of how these things work

breakfasteatre
06-11-2012, 09:05 PM
mark, you joker you

loki
06-11-2012, 09:05 PM
LOL, I'm well aware of how these things work

so whats the problem?

lose air, run rich. done.

Lockdown
06-11-2012, 09:10 PM
Let me know what it urns out to be.

Had the exact issue on my Mazda 3 that you are describing. LEAN condition.

TIP off from when I bought the car, didn't find the issue till I was doing my pump but it's not always black and white.

ETOMS3
06-11-2012, 09:23 PM
Well i did the MAF calibration at APH with Brian and the car is running great!! Problem solved!!

Thanks everyone who replied.

SomeGuy
06-11-2012, 09:28 PM
Let me know what it urns out to be.

Had the exact issue on my Mazda 3 that you are describing. LEAN condition.

TIP off from when I bought the car, didn't find the issue till I was doing my pump but it's not always black and white.

Regular mazda 3's are natural aspirated and therefore the intake is only ever in vacuum (ie the engine sucks in air). If there is air leaking in that system, it's coming into the system without being metered...therefore not enough fuel is being added for proper combustion and you go lean.


Well i did the MAF calibration at APH with Brian and the car is running great!! Problem solved!!

Thanks everyone who replied.

Good stuff :)

Lockdown
06-11-2012, 09:29 PM
I guess I should have mentioned mine is a Speed then.
I guess what I meant was TIP (turbo inlet pipe) was off

Lockdown
06-11-2012, 09:30 PM
Glad your car is up and running fine now

SomeGuy
06-11-2012, 09:33 PM
I guess I should have mentioned mine is a Speed then.

Well in his case he was running a map that was not designed for his intake and since the MAF calibration was off he was running too rich. It would be just as easy for the MAF calibration to be off in the opposite "direction" and run too lean.

Lockdown
06-11-2012, 09:35 PM
Well in his case he was running a map that was not designed for his intake and since the MAF calibration was off he was running too rich. It would be just as easy for the MAF calibration to be off in the opposite "direction" and run too lean.

If your MAF is off, you're screwed before you even start.

This is something I learned hands on while building some pretty big hp cars (where there is no instruction manual or off the shelf parts) and going through various combos, to get them right.

Snotrocket
06-13-2012, 05:14 PM
question, could you snap a picture of the bung where your 2nd o2 sensor screws into your downpipe?

Does it look like this? see the old bung on the right? I had to weld in a new bung because the 2nd o2 sensor was not in the exhaust flow.

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu3/snotrocket1983/3b504171.jpg

Snotrocket
06-13-2012, 05:15 PM
question, could you snap a picture of the bung where your 2nd o2 sensor screws into your downpipe?

Does it look like this? see the old bung on the right? I had to weld in a new bung because the 2nd o2 sensor was not in the exhaust flow.

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu3/snotrocket1983/3b504171.jpg

I know your issues are fixed, i just want to see what changes UR made to their DP bung.