Code P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High

[07carbon3]

engine light came on yesterday after driving through the rain storm, so took it into part source to have them scan for me and came up as p0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High. i have a aem cai installed so wondering if that has anything to do with that error? and maybe going through a water puddle, does anyone have any experience in what this is?
im going to do some googling on the issue but any info from you guys wold be helpful

[Default User]

Did you disconnect the negative battery terminal / reset the ECU?

That rain storm was retarded. My passenger light was out all day, then this morning it went back to normal

[07carbon3]

Did you disconnect the negative battery terminal / reset the ECU?

That rain storm was retarded. My passenger light was out all day, then this morning it went back to normal


i have not done that yet, should i leave it off for good 20 mins?

from some research it looks like i should clean the MAF sensor too

[Default User]

10-20 mins should be good.

If it comes back - then I would look for loose or "iffy-looking" wires. THEN i would clean the MAF

[07carbon3]

10-20 mins should be good.

If it comes back - then I would look for loose or "iffy-looking" wires. THEN i would clean the MAF

cool thanks for the tips!

[Default User]

NP

I'm almost certain it's a worn wire somewhere. Check right at the MAF connector and all the way back to where it connects to the battery box.

They usually get pulled and stressed especially with CAI/SRI's

Does the car stutter, shudder, or stall at all?

[07carbon3]

NP

I'm almost certain it's a worn wire somewhere. Check right at the MAF connector and all the way back to where it connects to the battery box.

They usually get pulled and stressed especially with CAI/SRI's

Does the car stutter, shudder, or stall at all?

i just unplugged the battery now, i looked at the wire where it plugs into the cai and they look fine. the car stutter when the cel first came on but seems to gone away. i may be wrong but to me it seems to running higher rpm.

when i go back to to plug the battery back in all the check the wire all the way back to the battery box.

when looking at the screws that hold the maf in place they almost look like torque screws or something or hopefully just a small allen key

[Default User]

Try this If its still idling high 20 mins after you reconnect the battery

- with the engine running pop the hood and GENTLY wiggle each wire connected to the MAF

listen for any change in RPM

- then, go up the wire loom where it's connected the battery box, disconnect the tie strap holdin it to the box and undo the loom. And do the same thing there.

You need to GENTLY tug and wiggle it enough to add a little stress to the wire.

I found a stretched wire 3" up from where it's actually connected to the MAF. I had to open up the loom all the way up and had to flick each wire till I found it.

[Default User]

Definitely save cleaning the MAF for last. It's a PITA LOL

[Wes08M3]

Definitely save cleaning the MAF for last. It's a PITA LOL

?? Cleaning the MAF is super easy... Unscrew the two screws, pull it out and spray with MAF cleaner, re-install. Maybe it's harder on an MS3?

[07carbon3]

?? Cleaning the MAF is super easy... Unscrew the two screws, pull it out and spray with MAF cleaner, re-install. Maybe it's harder on an MS3?


do you need a torque socket or w/e you call it for it?

[Wes08M3]

You shouldn't, on the '07 and '11 it's a phillips screw. Maybe someone has changed yours?

[07carbon3]

You shouldn't, on the '07 and '11 it's a phillips screw. Maybe someone has changed yours?

maybe cuz its not a phillips

[Wes08M3]

Weird. Usually those Mastercraft like 60 pc. tool kits have a few of the common torx bits. If you have one of those sets lol, most people seem to have one these days. The torx bits aren't very expensive to buy either.

BTW if you want some actual MAF cleaner you should be able to find it at Car Quest. It's made by CRC, called "Sensor Kleen".

[07carbon3]

Weird. Usually those Mastercraft like 60 pc. tool kits have a few of the common torx bits. If you have one of those sets lol, most people seem to have one these days. The torx bits aren't very expensive to buy either.

BTW if you want some actual MAF cleaner you should be able to find it at Car Quest. It's made by CRC, called "Sensor Kleen".

part source or ct have it?

[Wes08M3]

I was never able to find it there previously. Maybe they have started carrying it now, I'm not sure. Every time I've looked there before I could never find cleaner specifically for MAF's.

[07carbon3]

I was never able to find it there previously. Maybe they have started carrying it now, I'm not sure. Every time I've looked there before I could never find cleaner specifically for MAF's.

they have this
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/EngineCleaneEngineDegreasers/PRDOVR~0381704P/Mass+Air+Flow+Sensor+Cleaner.jsp?locale=en

[07carbon3]

so after having the battery disconnected for over an hour i turn the car on and the light is gone which is cool but i don't know if the problem is fixed. the car sits at 1000rpm when idling, is that a normal rpm for idling?, i jiggled the maf wires but it didn't do anything.

the 2 screws for the sensor are a t20 torq but i need a stubby one for it to fit in to unscrew it.

[Default User]

WOW - an hour is overkill LOL

the RPM is Normal for now. Car usually take ls 10-15 mins to "re-learn". Keep in mind the CEL could come back...so keep your fingers crossed

IIRC - ATX idles around 500 and MTX 700 RPM

[07carbon3]

WOW - an hour is overkill LOL

the RPM is Normal for now. Car usually take ls 10-15 mins to "re-learn". Keep in mind the CEL could come back...so keep your fingers crossed

IIRC - ATX idles around 500 and MTX 700 RPM

haha i got busy and could step out of our place to go down to the car right away, i wonder if maybe i sucked up abit of water in the intake causing it to go off

[Wes08M3]

they have this
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/EngineCleaneEngineDegreasers/PRDOVR~0381704P/Mass+Air+Flow+Sensor+Cleaner.jsp?locale=en

That looks fine to me.


so after having the battery disconnected for over an hour i turn the car on and the light is gone which is cool but i don't know if the problem is fixed. the car sits at 1000rpm when idling, is that a normal rpm for idling?, i jiggled the maf wires but it didn't do anything.

the 2 screws for the sensor are a t20 torq but i need a stubby one for it to fit in to unscrew it.

1000rpm is normal until the engine is at full operating temp (you'll need to drive it for this to occur) then it should idle around 550rpm once it dips into sub-idle.


haha i got busy and could step out of our place to go down to the car right away, i wonder if maybe i sucked up abit of water in the intake causing it to go off

That is certainly possible! If it drives normally now, I wouldn't worry about it unless the CEL comes back on.

[07carbon3]

That looks fine to me.



1000rpm is normal until the engine is at full operating temp (you'll need to drive it for this to occur) then it should idle around 550rpm once it dips into sub-idle.



That is certainly possible! If it drives normally now, I wouldn't worry about it unless the CEL comes back on.

now that its in my head i want to clean the maf regardless this weekend with my dad

[n00bMeiSter]

Definitely save cleaning the MAF for last. It's a PITA LOL

It's super easy. Pull out maf, spray with maf cleaner, let dry, replace.

[Wes08M3]

now that its in my head i want to clean the maf regardless this weekend with my dad

Never hurts to do and it takes about 5 minutes. If you want to go even further you can clean the throttle body at the same time. It's also very easy, get some throttle body cleaner (in an aerosol can) some of those blue lint free shop towels and maybe a toothbrush.

Open butterfly valve, spray cleaner inside TB, srcrub with toothbrush, wipe crap up with shop towel.

[Default User]

It's super easy. Pull out maf, spray with maf cleaner, let dry, replace.

Maybe it was the O2 sensor that's a PITA to clean, then LOL

[07carbon3]

I think now too I'm going to go get a aem bypass valve for the cai for piece of mind knowing water can't get sucked in

[Wes08M3]

I think now too I'm going to go get a aem bypass valve for the cai for piece of mind knowing water can't get sucked in

They have those hydro shield things that you wrap over your filter too. Not sure how well they work though. I think they're like $30-$40.

[6strings]

Looks like alot of people are having MAF issues LOL.
I might have to replace the MAF soon, did the cleaning of both MAF and throttle body and the car is still not 100%.

[07carbon3]

They have those hydro shield things that you wrap over your filter too. Not sure how well they work though. I think they're like $30-$40.

maybe i'll get that instead i just found out you have to cut the cai to install the valve and i don't really want to do that


Looks like alot of people are having MAF issues LOL.
I might have to replace the MAF soon, did the cleaning of both MAF and throttle body and the car is still not 100%.

what issues are you still having, higher then normal rpm? terrible acceleration?

[6strings]

what issues are you still having, higher then normal rpm? terrible acceleration?

Before cleaning the Filter, MAF and Throttle; the car was extremely jerky and wouldn't go faster than 60-70km/h or 3000rpm, it wouldn't even coast in gear. It jerked very much while driving or shifting.
I forgot the code # but when I got it pulled at Part source it was low air through MAF or something like that.
Now the problem is not as consistent or as drastic, its basically rough idle, slight jerk at down shift or between shift. During acceleration its feeling choked/sluggish.
Im going to see if the MAF is faulty.

[Default User]

Before cleaning the Filter, MAF and Throttle; the car was extremely jerky and wouldn't go faster than 60-70km/h or 3000rpm, it wouldn't even coast in gear. It jerked very much while driving or shifting.
I forgot the code # but when I got it pulled at Part source it was low air through MAF or something like that.
Now the problem is not as consistent or as drastic, its basically rough idle, slight jerk at down shift or between shift. During acceleration its feeling choked/sluggish.
Im going to see if the MAF is faulty.

Vacuum leak?