CEL went on, on my way to work.

[vankiz]

Hi guys, I was driving in to work in the morning, was almost there, last red light (left turn) and after I made the left turn, I've noticed my CEL is on. Nothing has happened that I've noticed, everything was the same.
I don't have any aftermarket intake, exhaust or anything, all stock.. anyone might have suggestions?
I will try to get the codes too...
I am thinking maybe reset ECU and see if that makes it go away, some glitches maybe, it happens, but want to eliminate that.

[peterm15]

Best bet is to run the code before re-setting the ECU.
Have you made any changes lately ( stereo, battery, maintenance. Ect)

[vankiz]

Nothing, that's why I am surprised, the only thing I've touched was filled up gas 1.5 weeks ago, I didn't even wash my car Lol..

[peterm15]

Ok well it may mean you need a new air filter or something.

[vankiz]

hm maybe, it was changed at 50k I think, I have 77k now, and that was like 2-3 years ago I think..

[peterm15]

hm maybe, it was changed at 50k I think, I have 77k now, and that was like 2-3 years ago I think..

Well before you start spending money. Run the code. It will narrow it down for you.
Where are you located? I doubt you are, but If your anywhere close to me you can use my code reader.

[vankiz]

Ottawa :(. you seem to be in Toronto, but thanks for the offer.

[peterm15]

Ok. Well check out part source.

[Wes08M3]

The CEL feature on a car was never really intended to tell you that your mods ****ed something up on your car lol. It's purpose is to tell you that something is not functioning the way it was designed to. They occasionally do come on even if your car has no mods.

Anyway, like Peter said, PartSource will read the code for free.

You said you filled it up with gas the other week. Are you sure the gas cap is properly secured? That can throw a CEL.

[vankiz]

well it has been quite a while and only now it detected that gas cap issue? I reclosed it again just to make sure, will have the codes read today, and will reset ECU too tonight

[Wes08M3]

It can take a while for that to occur, so it is still possible.

No need to reset the ecu, if you're getting the code read, they can erase it for you with the scanner. I think your best bet is to have it read then have it erased. While you wait to see if it comes back you can search the code and try and get an idea of what might be causing it.

[vankiz]

P2177 .. anyone know what that might be? I am going to see what I can find on the net.

[Tozer]

p2177/system too lean at idle is what the speedforums say

[vankiz]

p2177/system too lean at idle is what the speedforums say

any ideas of what it might be? Could be a leak in the air intake?

[Wes08M3]

Check the wiring to your MAF sensor. Also... Clean it.

[vankiz]

will do that tonight and have a look for vac leaks

[vankiz]

should I use this as well, kinda off topic.. clean fuel injector a bit?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/Green/EnergyConservation/FuelSavings/PRD~0380765P/STP+Fuel+Injector+Cleaner.jsp?locale=en

[Wes08M3]

Never hurts to try and clean the injectors a bit. How well it works? Nobody knows. Will it fix your problem? Doubtful.

You should buy this if you didn't already plan on it though:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/EngineCleaneEngineDegreasers/PRDOVR~0381704P/Mass+Air+Flow+Sensor+Cleaner.jsp?locale=en

[vankiz]

Never hurts to try and clean the injectors a bit. How well it works? Nobody knows. Will it fix your problem? Doubtful.

You should buy this if you didn't already plan on it though:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/EngineCleaneEngineDegreasers/PRDOVR~0381704P/Mass+Air+Flow+Sensor+Cleaner.jsp?locale=en

Got that MAF cleaner already, will use it tonight.

[zzz3]

i had the same code a while back (zero engine mods). after clearing it and replacing my air filter, as well as checking maf sensor, i never had the issue again. even had the dealer diagnose it and they reported nothing, aside from updating the ecu.

[vankiz]

i had the same code a while back (zero engine mods). after clearing it and replacing my air filter, as well as checking maf sensor, i never had the issue again. even had the dealer diagnose it and they reported nothing, aside from updating the ecu.

Did you end up cleaning your MAF?

[Impressive]

It'll have something to do with your intake 100%. Check all the clamps and whatnot on your intake as well as your MAF sensor and wiring.

[vankiz]

thanks for the input guys, after reseting code yesterday at lunch, I got home and back today in the morning, and nothing so far. so all seems to be okay for now. hopefully won't come back :)

[vankiz]

It'll have something to do with your intake 100%. Check all the clamps and whatnot on your intake as well as your MAF sensor and wiring.
My intake has a small defect.. I bought it used half a year ago, and noticed that 1 out of 4 (or 3) clamps is broken off .. I had a pic on this thread : http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?64338-Replacing-Air-filter-cant-find-last-clip-to-get-to-the-filter-help!&highlight=

[vankiz]

got back the CEL after 25 kms...

[vankiz]

I got home, I cleaned MAF with MAF cleaner, changed my air filter... after 1 hour, I hooked up my battery back ,let it idle for 15 mins. Then I shut it off. After 10 mins wanted to take it for a drive, went 15 meters, and was stuttering big time, barely got it back in my driveway, really ahve no clue.. maybe had major vacume leaks? like when I didnt shut down my air intake box properly after changing air filter? got thrown CEL, my power steering light went on for couple of seocnds and had problems turning but then got back to normal... dammit, im worried.

[vankiz]

what happens when I start: I turn the car on, it has very hard time starting the first 5-7 seconds, rpm jumping up and down, mostly below normal, then it kind becomes steady at 0.75 RPM, kind of periodically shaking once in a while...
anyone has any idea? really appreciate it, I am lost now.. maybe i screwed up my MAF somehow? I cleaned it before and nothing like this, did same steps... changed air filter... dunno, will try old one, but they look identical, except old one is dustier.. really need help :(

[Default User]

You will have a rough idle and a jumpy RPM for the first 10-15 minutes of driving after disconnecting the battery.

I'm thinking one of the MAF wires got stretched. You probably made it worse when you were cleaning it.

[vankiz]

I was being very gentle with the cable... is there a way to check if thats the case? excluding the obvious having a look at it physically

[Wes08M3]

I would follow the MAF wiring and carefully look for any stretches of breaks in the wiring. It seems to happen quite often on our cars but usually it's a result of an aftermarket intake. I'm sure you didn't since you've done this before but is the MAF installed in the correct direction? Or you didn't accidentally drop the MAF or anything? They're quite sensitive.

That's all I can think of right now. Maybe you'll have to check the codes again. Your p/s light probably just came on because the car was about to stall and the p/s motor didn't have sufficient power. I wouldn't worry about that.

[vankiz]

i was being careful with maf.. checked the two resistor-looking wires inside, look the same as before. ill look at wires.
so you dont think the air box, if not sealed properly, can cause this?

[Wes08M3]

I'd consider fixing that issue just to rule it out. But in theory it shouldn't be causing the problem because the "leak" is before the MAF so that air that's leaking into the air box is still being metered by the MAF.

[vankiz]

checked all the wiring, seems to be okay.
There is a super tiny fabric string, smaller then eyelash b 10 times, maybe from my sweater, stuck at the back of the wires on the wall.. you think that might be causing me problems?

[vankiz]

will probably go pick up new MAF sensor for 95$ and see if that helps.

[Default User]

get it diagnosed properly before spending money on new parts.

[vankiz]

so i got new MAF sensor, same symptoms. I am at lost guys, only thing I have done is cleaned MAF sensor and changed air filter, thats it.. what could've gone so wrong that I cant even drive my car now?
Where should i get it diagnosed ? dealership? how can I get the car over there if I cant drive it.. :(

[vankiz]

one thing I remember, first time I disconnected the MAF connector, I noticed that there was s very tiny hair like copper colored "straw" i figured, so I just blew it off and it flew away.. could that have been part of the wire ripped out? how can I check?

[Default User]

one thing I remember, first time I disconnected the MAF connector, I noticed that there was s very tiny hair like copper colored "straw" i figured, so I just blew it off and it flew away.. could that have been part of the wire ripped out? how can I check?

Stretched a wire somewhere. Push and pull each wire at the connector.

[Default User]

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=53251

[Impressive]

It's a MAF wire if you're having that problem 100%. I had the same issue when mine stretched. The car idled fine but when I drove it off shifting from 1-2 the whole car just dropped and started going crazy so I re-sodered by MAF wires and it has run perfect since then.

You should be able to drive the car as long as you keep the revs relatively high but you'll be burning your clutch no matter what trying to drive it in its current state.

[Wes08M3]

Stretched a wire somewhere. Push and pull each wire at the connector.

I would try this too.

Turn the car on and move the wires around and see if the car changes how it's idling.

[vankiz]

It's a MAF wire if you're having that problem 100%. I had the same issue when mine stretched. The car idled fine but when I drove it off shifting from 1-2 the whole car just dropped and started going crazy so I re-sodered by MAF wires and it has run perfect since then.

You should be able to drive the car as long as you keep the revs relatively high but you'll be burning your clutch no matter what trying to drive it in its current state.

Was it difficult to re-solder the wires? I really dont know how it looks inside. Was it hard to take apart (the connector)?

[Impressive]

Was it difficult to re-solder the wires? I really dont know how it looks inside. Was it hard to take apart (the connector)?

No it isn't but if you aren't comfortable with it you may want to take it to a nearby shop. The whole procedure (taking it apart, fixing necessary wires and reinstalling) should take an hour or less.

[vankiz]

hmm I want to try and look first and see whats the case there, kinda want to save 80 bucks on tow it to a shop

[vankiz]

any suggestions on how to open that connector to get to the wires? really not sure how to do that

[Default User]

click the link


http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=53251

http://img.tapatalk.com/63f3d94c-6041-a130.jpg

Pretty sure the wires are exposed even on an OEM intake

[vankiz]

yes i can see mine, all 5 wires are intact. I was thinking maybe in the actual connector they are damaged.

[vankiz]

took it in, in 1 hour of inspecion do not know whats wrong, the car drives just fine, if I barely press gas keep it below 2k rpm, if I go over, press harder on the pedal, the guy said that all of my sensors readigns drop to 0..
suggested cleaning grounds.. where do we have groudns on our 3s?