2nd gear grinding, hard to shift into 3rd

[Genpu_Mz3]

Hey, I was just wondering if anyone else was having a problem with the 2010 mazda 3 2nd gear grinding? ( and yes the clutch is all the way in, and no its not the way im shifting, for all you jokesters out there, lol) anyways im not sure if it the solenoid of whats going on. also sometimes it takes more of an effort getting into 3rd, could that just be a case of having to replace the shifter bushings?

[TheMAN]

your car has a warranty, take it in... if it's serious enough, they will fix it now... if you don't do it now and it gets worse after the warranty expires, you are SOL

[mazdaagain]

I just took my 2010 in with manual transmission issues. I had a bit of grinding going from 1st to 2nd gear and also into reverse. They informed me that the "synchro" is gone and have approved a warranty replacement (powertrain coverage).

They have also informed me that my clutch has about 50-60% left on it and asked me if I want to replace it now since the labour is already covered for the existing repair. Normal clutch replacement would be around $1,500 with the labour cots. My last 3 cars, I went to over 200,000 on each without ever replacing the clutch ... what do you think ? Should I replace it ?

[Booter22]

well you know how you grind out 2nd gear... all those fast shifts :P i mean if your doing a tranny repair and your clutch is at half life you might as well get it done now save the cost down the road while its all apart anyway. but if it was me and i had the option to replace the clutch id look for something over the stock clutch like a spec stage 1 or something at least better then stock.

[Genpu_Mz3]

thanks, im gunna set-up an appointment with the dealership and figure out wtf is up! and go from there

[Wes08M3]

Have you ever replaced the transmission fluid?

[Impressive]

Have you ever replaced the transmission fluid?

It's a brand new car (standard too)...why on earth would he replace his tranny fluid? You technically don't ever have to do it in manual cars especially ones as new as OPs. If his fluid is leaking or something, maybe it would be causing the problem but I highly doubt it has anything to do with that.

[Wes08M3]

It's a brand new car (standard too)...why on earth would he replace his tranny fluid? You technically don't ever have to do it in manual cars especially ones as new as OPs. If his fluid is leaking or something, maybe it would be causing the problem but I highly doubt it has anything to do with that.

Just because the owners manual doesn't have a change interval doesn't mean that MTF lasts forever... No fluid does, especially the shitty factory fill fluid. Where did you ever get the idea that you never have to change manual transmission fluid?

Also, it's not a "brand new car" it's a 2010, it's 2 or more years old now. For all we know it could have 120,000km on it (I know a few 2010 owners that do).

If he switches to a quality lubricant like Redline or Motorcraft MTF it may reduce or eliminate his grinding problem. It's worth a shot if the dealer gives him a hard time about warranty work, especially if he has a lot of mileage on the car and the fluid has never been changed.

[Genpu_Mz3]

the car only has 54,000km on it and ive had it since brand new. i have a warranty so ill see what the dealership has to say. thanks for your advice(s) though!!

[Wes08M3]

50-60k is a good time to change the trans fluid.

I changed mine to Motorcraft XT-M5-QS MTF at 24,000km and it shifts much better now (it never had a grind though). Hopefully the dealer can do something and get the problem fixed under warranty.

[Impressive]

Just because the owners manual doesn't have a change interval doesn't mean that MTF lasts forever... No fluid does, especially the shitty factory fill fluid. Where did you ever get the idea that you never have to change manual transmission fluid?

Also, it's not a "brand new car" it's a 2010, it's 2 or more years old now. For all we know it could have 120,000km on it (I know a few 2010 owners that do).

If he switches to a quality lubricant like Redline or Motorcraft MTF it may reduce or eliminate his grinding problem. It's worth a shot if the dealer gives him a hard time about warranty work, especially if he has a lot of mileage on the car and the fluid has never been changed.

Well considering I put 300,000km on my last car and never once changed the MTF, I really don't think it's all that necessary. I get it if you want to change it after like 150,000 or 200,000km just for piece of mind but unlike ATF I know you don't have to change it nearly as frequently.

After ~60,000km there is no way OP should have to change his MTF, but you're right on the fact that changing it could still have a positive impact.

[KL3]

I have a 2012 skyactiv AT.
I've noticed that sometimes when it shifts up in AT mode there is a slight jerk in when transitioning between gears, sometimes its not noticable. I also can notice when it downshifts during braking in AT mode as well. There is a slight jerk and the car slows down as if you were using a MT or an older car's AT and going from D to D3, but I am on full AT mode. Is this a known issue? My parents take the car most of the week tbh since lately they have had to drive around more and further than I do.

[KL3]

Is this how the car normally is or is this possibly an issue?
I think I've gotten pretty sensitive to how the mazda 3 feels since I've driving a Tribeca for most if not all of the week. It's a pretty smooth car as far as I can tell.
Sorry noob questions. Thanks in advance

[Wes08M3]

This thread was related to manual transmissions but I believe what you are experiencing in your automatic is normal. The SkyActiv uses a torque converter with a wider lockup range compared to traditional automatics and also has a clutch whereas traditional autos don't. So it's going to be a bit more noticeable during some shifting situations because of it's design.

Unless its really bad, I think it will just take some time for you to get used to the new style of automatic transmissions. There are a few threads on here about the SkyActiv transmission.

[KL3]

Okay thanks.

[Genpu_Mz3]

went into the dealer today, and of course they didn't find anything wrong. but at least now its in their system that i've been having troubles with it. so if something fails in my tranny, i can smile n say "told you so" lol.

[Wes08M3]

Buy 3 liters of Ford XT-M5-QS fluid, drain transmission and fill with your newly purchased liquid gold. Done and done! :P

[Genpu_Mz3]

Buy 3 liters of Ford XT-M5-QS fluid, drain transmission and fill with your newly purchased liquid gold. Done and done! :P
lol, sounds like a plan!

[Wes08M3]

Expect to pay an arm and a leg for the fluid though. Average price is about $26/liter.

Another cheaper option is to go with Redline MT-90 (also very good fluid) for about $17/liter. Consult your owners manual first though, if it calls for 75w-90 trans fluid then go for the MT-90. If it calls for 75w-80 then use Redline MTL (it's a 70w-80 oil).

My 2011 calls for 75w-80, not sure if the 2010's do.

[Genpu_Mz3]

Expect to pay an arm and a leg for the fluid though. Average price is about $26/liter.

Another cheaper option is to go with Redline MT-90 (also very good fluid) for about $17/liter. Consult your owners manual first though, if it calls for 75w-90 trans fluid then go for the MT-90. If it calls for 75w-80 then use Redline MTL (it's a 70w-80 oil).

My 2011 calls for 75w-80, not sure if the 2010's do.
Thanks!! I will be looking into it!

[TheMAN]

the 2011s take redline MT85, NOT MTL!!!!

[sarujo]

2010's and 2011's call for 75W80.

MT85 looks to be newly introduced.

On Redline's site it states for MTL 70W80 - "Satisifies the gear oil viscosity requirements of 70W, 75W, 80W,"
For MT85 75W85 - "Satisifies the gear oil viscosity requirements of 75W, 80W, 85W"

To say "NOT" for MTL is fallacy. Both appear to be spec'd just fine and priced the same.


the 2011s take redline MT85, NOT MTL!!!!

[Wes08M3]

2010's and 2011's call for 75W80.

MT85 looks to be newly introduced.

On Redline's site it states for MTL 70W80 - "Satisifies the gear oil viscosity requirements of 70W, 75W, 80W,"
For MT85 75W85 - "Satisifies the gear oil viscosity requirements of 75W, 80W, 85W"

To say "NOT" for MTL is fallacy. Both appear to be spec'd just fine and priced the same.

This.


the 2011s take redline MT85, NOT MTL!!!!

MT-85 is not very easy to come by and is really expensive. At least from the places I checked.

[TheMAN]

Mazda made it VERY CLEAR that running a 70 weight gear oil could cause shifting problems and/or transmission damage... the MTL is a 70 to 80 weight oil, which is why redline's product matching tool does NOT list the MTL for the 3
run MT85 or go with another brand

[Booter22]

ive put the motul 75w90 in my car at 24000km and drove better once i changed it then and now at 62 000km it stil drives awesome. no grinding or anything. going to switch it out for the ford syncromesh stuff at 72 000

http://www.motul.com/ca/en-US/products/106?f%5Bapplication%5D=141&f%5Brange%5D=25

[sarujo]

I just checked Redline's select tool on their site and 2010 onward for the 5MT and 6MT it shows me MTL. See below. If you search 2009 and earlier it reverts to MT-90.

http://i1041.photobucket.com/albums/b411/sarujoku/MTL.jpg



Mazda made it VERY CLEAR that running a 70 weight gear oil could cause shifting problems and/or transmission damage... the MTL is a 70 to 80 weight oil, which is why redline's product matching tool does NOT list the MTL for the 3
run MT85 or go with another brand

[Wes08M3]

Mazda made it VERY CLEAR that running a 70 weight gear oil could cause shifting problems and/or transmission damage... the MTL is a 70 to 80 weight oil, which is why redline's product matching tool does NOT list the MTL for the 3
run MT85 or go with another brand

Just out of curousity, what's the reason 70 weight oil is not suitable for these transmissions?

[Wes08M3]

I just checked Redline's select tool on their site and 2010 onward for the 5MT and 6MT it shows me MTL. See below. If you search 2009 and earlier it reverts to MT-90.

http://i1041.photobucket.com/albums/b411/sarujoku/MTL.jpg

LOL at them recommending 5w-20 motor oil. Should be 0w-20. Their site probably needs an update :s

[TheMAN]

hmm... interesting... I remember last year, their website showed MT-85 as the application for the genpus
Mazda specifies 75W80 for these cars, running 70W80 may cause additional transmission noise/wear.... I still think it's a bad idea to run MTL on these cars

[sarujo]

What are your thoughts then about running the Ford, Motul, MT-90 which are all 75W90? It seems to me that Mazda moved to the lighter weight oil in the newer cars to try and squeeze out fuel economy.


hmm... interesting... I remember last year, their website showed MT-85 as the application for the genpus
Mazda specifies 75W80 for these cars, running 70W80 may cause additional transmission noise/wear.... I still think it's a bad idea to run MTL on these cars

[TheMAN]

mazda says running the thicker oil may cause hard shifting in cold weather
YMMV

[Booter22]

i havent had any problems with the 75w90 in the winter but of course that is all possible.

[TheMAN]

when was your car built? not all 2010s take 75W80, early ones took 75W90

[sarujo]

^^^ mid-April 2010

The printed manual that came with my car says 75W80

[sarujo]

With a quality synthetic, is this even possible?? Perhaps by 'cold' you are talking like -30C temps?


mazda says running the thicker oil may cause hard shifting in cold weather
YMMV

[Wes08M3]

I'm interested to see what the Ford fluid will be like in the winter up north. This will be my first winter with the fluid in so I'll report on how it is for anyone interested. The OEM fluid was certainly not great so I hope it's an improvement.

[Wes08M3]

Update for anyone who's interested... Absolutely BRUTAL shifting in the cold with the Ford MTF. Second gear is terrible, the others aren't too bad but 1st, 3rd and 5th can be iffy at times. When it's fairly cold and I shift it into 2nd for the first time it barely even wants to go in, feels like I'm jamming it in, no grinds though.

Really regretting buying this fluid to be entirely honest, that's how bad I'm finding it. Not sure which other one to try at this point.

[Booter22]

Update for anyone who's interested... Absolutely BRUTAL shifting in the cold with the Ford MTF. Second gear is terrible, the others aren't too bad but 1st, 3rd and 5th can be iffy at times. When it's fairly cold and I shift it into 2nd for the first time it barely even wants to go in, feels like I'm jamming it in, no grinds though.

Really regretting buying this fluid to be entirely honest, that's how bad I'm finding it. Not sure which other one to try at this point.

did you use enough fluid? how many L did you put in. i know it sounds stupid. but when they did mine with the motul it took around 4 bottles. with the ford stuff. and i didnt watch him fill it. took about 6-7 bottles. why i have no idea. but obvious in a manual you fill until it comes out the upper fill hole. so not sure why it was more. dont have any driving problems however.

[sarujo]

The 2010 5MT requires 2.93 US quarts or 2.77L. You guys changed my 5MT OEM factory fluid to MTL and I brought in my own - 4 bottles of MTL (1 US quart or 946mL each). I was given back 1 bottle with the majority of the fluid 85%+ left. So based on the Mazda spec, your guys added the correct amount. So 6 or 7 bottles??? Jesus! :chuckle The Ford bottles should be the same size as well...that must have been one mighty expensive oil change, with that Ford stuff going at $20+ per bottle!

Wes08 seemed to be quite happy with the performance earlier in the year with the Ford.

Now it's not even close to the cold temps Wes08 has up north here in Toronto, but whenever I drive home from work (car sits outside all day) the first couple of minutes are harder and more notchy, but then it gets sexy again. Some times I find shifting to degrade a bit, but many other times orgasmic. I'm not sure if it's just the quirky nature of these low cost trannies (cheap syncros?) or not being consistent with the clutch and hand work...


did you use enough fluid? how many L did you put in. i know it sounds stupid. but when they did mine with the motul it took around 4 bottles. with the ford stuff. and i didnt watch him fill it. took about 6-7 bottles. why i have no idea. but obvious in a manual you fill until it comes out the upper fill hole. so not sure why it was more. dont have any driving problems however.

[Kiyomi]

did you use enough fluid? how many L did you put in. i know it sounds stupid. but when they did mine with the motul it took around 4 bottles. with the ford stuff. and i didnt watch him fill it. took about 6-7 bottles. why i have no idea. but obvious in a manual you fill until it comes out the upper fill hole. so not sure why it was more. dont have any driving problems however.

your talking transmission fluid right? how the hell did your transmission take 4 bottles of motul???