800W Pioneer + Kenwood Bass Bundle Problem

[mprus]

Hi, I was interested in this 800W Pioneer + Kenwood Bass Bundle but its seems that the pioneer subwoofer is 200 rms power and the Kenwood Amplifier is not sutiable for this amp ? what you guys think ?

Thanks

[stevenma188]

Link to the sub and the amp? Hard to give advise based on the information given.

[mprus]

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38388_800W-Pioneer-Kenwood-Bass-Bundle.html


Sorry my bad !!

[goodcase]

I'd say the amp is a little to underpowered for the sub.

[mprus]

Thats what I think also !

[gabbygenier]

I dont think its underpowered, the sub takes 200W RMS. the amp bridge at 4 ohms, will push 150W.

thats not too much of a difference. odds are you probably wouldnt push the amp to its max anyways regardless of what subs you have. i dont think ive ever seen one setup yet where the amp or subs are maxed out or pushed to its limits. personally i think it sounds like shit on most of them. only ones that ive ever heard that sound good are competition setup that are done very well.

also i dont think a company like sonicelectronics would be putting something together thats not meant to be paired together.

[mprus]

Which would you choose as a Sub, the one listed above or http://www.nvx.com/subwoofers/universal-subwoofer/qbus8-quickbass-universal-system-powered-sub.html

[gabbygenier]

id pick the one listed above, i would trust pioneer and kenwood more then a brand ive never heard of

[mprus]

So , it is safe to get the pioneer bundle, since it does seem to be underpowered....

[gabbygenier]

id say get it, but it shows out of stock

[mprus]

id say get it, but it shows out of stock


Thanks Gabbygenier !!

I either get the 800W sub with a Digital Pioneer D7500m rated at 200 RMS or the package with the kenwood, but then the difference bwtween $166 and $280.. I wonder if its worth it...

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38388_800W-Pioneer-Kenwood-Bass-Bundle.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22381_Pioneer-GM-D7500M.html with the Pioneer 800 Sub...

Im not sure what to do and if any difference of quality..etc...between the 2 subs and which one is more worth it ....

[mprus]

HELP ?

[Genpu_Mz3]

if you have the money buy the pioneer amp and and sub, its a bettter match 1. its a class D mono block amp so it puts out a better signal to your subwoofer. 2. its rms power is perfect to supply your sub. and 3. its matching product. the kenwood deal is a good deal and perfect if your on a budget and will get the job done. but the pioneer amp is strictly a subwoofer amp. the kenwood class a/b amp is perfectly fine to be used on subwoofers but get more of a signal for mids.

[Genpu_Mz3]

Just to explain what im talking about a little better. from crutchfield.com

Classes of Amplifiers
An amplifier is classified according to its circuit design and the way its output stages are powered. Although some may assume that for every portion of the input signal there is corresponding 100% output from the amplifier, power dissipation (in the form of heat) and distortion of the audio signal are two key factors in determining the efficiency and fidelity of an amplifier. Each class has its own performance characteristics and advantages.

Class A amplifiers are desirable for the high quality of their sound, but, because of the configuration of its transistors, a pure class A amplifier is inefficient and runs very hot. This is because even when there is no audio signal, the output transistors always have current running through them. The current flowing through the output transistors (with no audio signal) causes the amp to heat up unnecessarily, and "waste" input energy. Most car amplifiers that boast "Class A" circuitry are really Class A/Class AB hybrids.
The output transistors of Class B amplifiers actually turn off for half of every signal cycle. This improves efficiency and saves energy, but introduces distortion during the switching periods.
By far the most common car amp design, Class AB amplifiers also allow current to run through the output transistors when there is no audio signal, but at a much lower level. A class AB amplifier runs cooler, and therefore, more efficiently than a class A, with low distortion and high reliability.
Class D amplifiers use output transistors as switches to control power distribution — the transistors rapidly switch on and off at least twice during every signal cycle. Class D amps boast higher efficiency, produce less heat, and draw less current than traditional Class AB designs. Class D amplifiers produce higher distortion than AB designs due to the high-speed switching on and off of the transistors, but this distortion occurs at high frequencies that are typically removed by a low-pass filter.

[gabbygenier]

if you dont want to spend to much money, id say go for this. still another bundle. just a diff sub. ive had a few rockford subs. they are awesome. i blew them cause i overpowered them a LOT. but i can tell you that it took a long time and a really good beating. drove from TO to guelph all the time and they blew just as i got home haha. i will also vouch for their amps. they pound pretty good and i never had issues with the 2 i had before.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38389_300W-Rockford-Fosgate-Kenwood-Bass-Bundle.html

but like 2010maztre said. if money isnt an issue then id go for the pioneer sub and amp. he explained pretty good y that would be good

[mprus]

Thanks for the help.. I talked to 3 different representatives and they also stated that the Pioneer D7500m doesnt require a line out converter as its built in and comes with it. .:)))

Decided to go with Pioneer sub and Amp :)

[TheMaterial]

Thanks for the help.. I talked to 3 different representatives and they also stated that the Pioneer D7500m doesnt require a line out converter as its built in and comes with it. .:)))

Decided to go with Pioneer sub and Amp :)

The kenwood has them also. You still need to run a remote wire to turn the amp on. Regardless of the Pioneer or Kenwood listed.

If you go with this one here, it also has signal sensing turn on. No remote wire required. Makes your install a breeze.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22732_Kenwood-KAC-8105D.html?SearchClickout[query_id]=12978252&SearchClickout[Ignore]=1

[mprus]

I bought the Belva BAK42 :)

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_45056_Belva-BAK42.html

It includes the Remote Wire

[TheMaterial]

I bought the Belva BAK42 :)

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_45056_Belva-BAK42.html

It includes the Remote Wire

Any kit will include that wire. You can just save yourself a lot of time with an amp that does signal sensing. You wouldn't need to take the head unit out, you can get your speaker wires out of the door sills, run speaker wires to the back. Only one wire fully front to back and thats power. The speaker wire is really easy to tuck and run.

Don't get me wrong its not hard to run a remote wire, just trying to save you some time is all.

Your going to really like the pionner amp and sub combo. Nice set up without spending an arm and a leg.

[mprus]

I tried searching how to install my Amp and SUBwoofer, but Im not getting a good step by step how to do it :(

Thanks THeMaterial !!!

[vip3r87]

I bought the Belva BAK42 :)

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_45056_Belva-BAK42.html

It includes the Remote Wire

Damn that's a good deal for 4 gauge kit!

[mprus]

This is a Diagram i created for the setup and hopefully this is correct.LOL


http://i50.tinypic.com/kn6gp.jpg

[peterm15]

Minus the fact that you don't have a ground. Seems ok to me.

BUT after dealing with speaker wire just last week ( installed 2 amps, 4 speakers, and a sub) it may actually be easier to run an LOC directly off the HU to run RCAs to the amp. 3's have a molex plug that connect the door to the interior wire that makes running wire through a PITA. but running an RCA from the front to the back is pretty simple. 5 pins to pull and yank off the kicks.

[mprus]

Ya, ground is a given, but I agree, Just forgot to Display it.. And the ampflifier I ordered has a LOC added to the amplifier..

THANKS :), WAs trying to figure if I am thinking correctly about setting it up..

[mprus]

http://i46.tinypic.com/2wmzz9c.jpg

UPDATED WITH GROUND CONNECTION !!

[peterm15]

I realize that the amp has a built in LOC. the problem is to connect the outputs to the speakers you need to run a wire through the doors to the speakers. To get there you'll have to cut out or drill out the molex. Which from personal experience is a PITA especially in the rears. You'll need to disconnect the plug, pull all of the wire clips that are under the carpet just to get enough room to pull the molex back through into the interior to drill it out. A separate loc will make things a crap ton easier as it takes only minutes to run an RCA. The only other option is if you can actually tap the speaker wire from inside the car.

Either way. If you decide to go through the molex and need some help let me know. The nightmares of that are still in my mind. So easy for me to help. 😊

[mprus]

What molex ? Picture ? I was thinking of taping into the speaker wire in the rears as Im only adding a sub and an amp...?

[peterm15]

http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2010-mazda-3-audio-electronics/10800-how-wire-door-speakers-through-molex.html

This is the link I used I think. But mine had WAY more wires to deal with.

You may actually be able to tap from the inside of the car. Up the pilar where the seatbelt is. But I honestly don't know. As I had to run RCAs from the HU.

[mprus]

Ya, I will probably tap from inside the car and take off the pillar. If anything goes wrong, theres always another way, we do have a mazda3 !!,lol

Great Link !!

[peterm15]

Lol.
If you need some help. Let me know. Running the power and ground was pretty simple. It was the speakers and wire that screwed me. It was my first time installing this stuff and I took it on, on my own.

[mprus]

True, Good job, thats where ill be at soon once I get the product.. First time for me also.

[113GT]

i have 150 watt amp bridged powering a 200 watt sub and it pounds like crazy.

[mprus]

I really just want it to pound low end bass, not high, lol

[mprus]

MOLEX HELP BELOW :)

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?90091-How-to-pull-Front-door-speaker-wire...

[mprus]

So I opened up the panels where the MOLEX is located and Can't I just tap into those wire from this picture provided ?

http://i50.tinypic.com/vfwajo.jpg

Any ideas ? Thanks

[TheMaterial]

Just grab the wires in the door sill. So much easier.

The only time you need to re-run wire through the molex is to re-wire everything, which in most cases is not needed. Done some high end set ups with factory wire and no issues or signal loss, compared to heaver gauge wire.

You could also just pull the headunit out, takes all of 5mins to do, and run the wires to the back. Speaker wire is not hard to tuck and run. All you need to do is, pop the panel above the glove box and that covers the clock. then if I remember 2-4 screws and pull it out. Disconnect the harness. Tie in tape and get it back together.

Wires will be:
White/Purple(+) gray white(-) for left rear
white(+) gray(-) right rear
and yellow will be your amp turn on.

[peterm15]

Your molex is easy. Mine had a lot more wires. Lol.

The man knows. Do as he says.

I re-wired. I had to.