Audio Mods.. Anybody Want To Give me a Hand? I'm buying...

[ds08tf]

Hey I recently posted up a list of all my purchases in the new users section under my car post.
I have a lengthy list of audio equipment to install and while I think I'd be able to handle some of it, I'm not really comfortable as I've never done stuff like this with a car before. (Only on speaker systems and computers)
Here's the list...
Audio
- Eonon D5102 head unit
- Pioneer 6x9 Speakers for the front
- Sony Xplod 6.5 Speakers for the back
- Bose Tweeters
- Dual MOSFET 600W Variable Crossover 4x3x2 Channels
- JL 10" Sub and Rox Box
- 17 Feet of Audio cable and a Scosche Amp wiring kit
- Yellow Top Battery
- Speciality battery wiring (Haven't purchased yet but soon will be before install)

I was wondering if anybody would want to set up a day in the near future to help me with the installation of these parts. I'll bring some beer/coffee whatever and probably I'll even donate a little to your cause. Main thing is I want to see how to do these things properly so that in the future I can do them myself or help someone else.

If this interests anyone please let me know.

Some of the mods I could obviously do solo (battery, probably head unit, etc.)
Either way I'd like some help and I'd like to make some friends.

The best date for me would be November 4th. Also if no one wants to help can you point me in the direction of some good how-to's? I'll search the forums and google it but sometimes the best ones aren't stickied and can be hidden :S

Thanks!
Cheers,
Darien

[Genpu_Mz3]

if ya lived close i'd put it all in for ya, but your too far away, but a few things,

1. put the 6.5's and tweeters in the front and the 6x9's in the back, it'll be better "staging" as you want the high's/mids in the front and the more woofer type speaker in the back
2. mounting plates are going to be needed to be made since the stock speakers are 5x7/6x8
3. im assuming the 600w crossover is an amplifier? if so since its a 4/3/2 channel amplifier it should be used for your door speakers but you can use it for your sub its just not recommended because of the class of the amp. speaker wire is going to be run from each individual door or from the back of the cd player, if you choose to use the amp for your door speakers, so you'll need about 80-100ft of speaker wire 16g should be good.
4. now you need an amp for your jl audio subwoofer, just match the rms rated power of the subwoofer and match it with the amp, so say its a 300watt sub, get atleast a 300watt rms amp.
5. all this is a full days worth of work aprox 3-4hrs for an experienced installer, unless its beer and coffee of gold and diamonds, you may wanna fork over some cash.

[ds08tf]

if ya lived close i'd put it all in for ya, but your too far away, but a few things,

1. put the 6.5's and tweeters in the front and the 6x9's in the back, it'll be better "staging" as you want the high's/mids in the front and the more woofer type speaker in the back
2. mounting plates are going to be needed to be made since the stock speakers are 5x7/6x8
3. im assuming the 600w crossover is an amplifier? if so since its a 4/3/2 channel amplifier it should be used for your door speakers but you can use it for your sub its just not recommended because of the class of the amp. speaker wire is going to be run from each individual door or from the back of the cd player, if you choose to use the amp for your door speakers, so you'll need about 80-100ft of speaker wire 16g should be good.
4. now you need an amp for your jl audio subwoofer, just match the rms rated power of the subwoofer and match it with the amp, so say its a 300watt sub, get atleast a 300watt rms amp.
5. all this is a full days worth of work aprox 3-4hrs for an experienced installer, unless its beer and coffee of gold and diamonds, you may wanna fork over some cash.


Sweet, I really appreciate the advice and heads up on the amp. I'll pick one up to match the sub.
And for sure if someone helps/shows/does the install with me/for me I'll fork out some cash. I wasn't sure how much labour was involved.

Question though, do I need a specific type of amp wiring kit.. I got one that is 680 Watt capable to cover the 600 Watt Amplifier. Is that's all thats necessary or is there a specific type for a specific type of amp? I'll most def. pick up some more speaker wire too.
Thanks again, would seeing pics help?
PS. I can set up a day either in the GTA or in St.Catharines or somewhere inbetween I don't mind driving an hour out of my way. For a good days worth of fun.

[goodcase]

Sweet, I really appreciate the advice and heads up on the amp. I'll pick one up to match the sub.
And for sure if someone helps/shows/does the install with me/for me I'll fork out some cash. I wasn't sure how much labour was involved.

Question though, do I need a specific type of amp wiring kit.. I got one that is 680 Watt capable to cover the 600 Watt Amplifier. Is that's all thats necessary or is there a specific type for a specific type of amp? I'll most def. pick up some more speaker wire too.
Thanks again, would seeing pics help?
PS. I can set up a day either in the GTA or in St.Catharines or somewhere inbetween I don't mind driving an hour out of my way. For a good days worth of fun.

Wiring kits are measured in terms of gage. In a nutshell, gage is the thickness of the wire, the thicker the wire the easier more current can flow through. I'm using 4 gage for my 600W amp right now.

[Genpu_Mz3]

4gauge is the most common and will be more then enough for the system you plan on running. if you are going to go with the 2 amps, i would suggest either buying a distribution block, 4g in 4g out. what that does, is it allows you to run one 4g wire to the block, then you can split other 4g wires from that block off of it, it comes in handy with multiple amplifier's. or you can get a power capacitor or power cell (depending on your budget, the power cell is like a battery cheap ones are around $300) and that will help out with keeping a constant amount of power to your amp and also will be able to run multiple power and ground wires off of it to your amplifiers. a distro block is probably around the $30 marker maybe cheaper, and a power cap is around $100 - $200.

I live about 2hrs away, and i dont think i'll be heading down that way anytime soon, i was in niagra this weekend, hopefully someone closer will be able to guide you along.

Good Luck

[CH0SiiN1]

If you wanna come to Brantford I'd be happy to help you out..
I did my in dash w/bt with a 1000rms amp, 2-12's and door speakers.. if you want to grab a toggle switch, I can jimmy up in dash to play movies while driving.

@2010maztre,
I agree that 4gauge will work.. but i recommend 0gauge.. if your like me, you might want a bit more power in the future and if you go with 0gauge you will never need to re wire if you ever to go 1000+ rms lol.. but with a 10" sub and a lil amp that you mentioned.. 4gauge is more then enough thickness for your task.. dont forget to grab a cap and fuse or block.. great advice man!! +1

[peterm15]

Beware of molex.

It's the hardest part of the audio install. I just did mine a week or so ago. 4 speakers, 2 amps and a sub.

Was about 5' short on speaker wire ( had 50 feet) I used 2g to a dist block 4g out. ( mathematically it seemed better. )

It's gonna take you about 2 afternoons. At least that's what it took me.

[Default User]

Here's the list...
Audio
- Eonon D5102 head unit
- Pioneer 6x9 Speakers for the front
- Sony Xplod 6.5 Speakers for the back
- Bose Tweeters
- Dual MOSFET 600W Variable Crossover 4x3x2 Channels
- JL 10" Sub and Rox Box
- 17 Feet of Audio cable and a Scosche Amp wiring kit
- Yellow Top Battery
- Speciality battery wiring (Haven't purchased yet but soon will be before install)


what car is this going into?
issue #1
BOSE tweeters with aftermarket speakers - unless you have a component crossover system - you will not need the tweeters

issue #2
You most likely will need adapters to fit those 6x9's and 6.5" into the door speakers

Suggestions
Unless you actually need a battery - I would skip out on the Yellow Top for now. (Also because I'm not sure what "specialty" battery wiring is LOL)
Look into an OEM-to-aftermarket speaker wire adapter kit.

[ds08tf]

Alright before I individually respond to responses. I will post up a complete updated list of exactly what I have with links. Please help me understand if there is anything I still need (or don't need as I can return stuff). The thingsI'm fairly sure I still need is a shit ton of 0 or 4 gauge speaker wire.
4 Channel 600 Watt Amp From Dual - http://www.crutchfield.com/S-PDq1hncSJyY/p_070XPA4640/Dual-XPA4640.html
1600 Total Watt (625 RMS) AMP 'n' CAP Wiring Kit (Comes with 500 K Cap) - http://shopping.canoe.ca/shop/product--productId_26432365.html
680 Watt (400 RMS) AMP wiring kit - http://shopping.canoe.ca/shop/product--offlinePageNumber_2__productId_26432433.html
In line Fuse Block and Maxi Fuses (Both from Scosche)
Scosche Stereo Connector For Mazda (Includes Power and Speaker Connecters)
Complete Car Stereo Tool Kit - http://shopping.canoe.ca/shop/product--offlinePageNumber_2__productId_26432399.html
17 FT of Car Stereo RCA Audio Cable (Gold plated ends blah blah)
Speakers: Pair of Pioneer 6x8 4 ohm, 250 W, 2 Way (Sorry about the confusion they are 6x8 not 6x9 - http://www.electronicsbonanza.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?sku=Pioneer-TSG6844R&idProduct=19525
Speakers: Pair of Sony Xplod 6.5', 4 ohm, 270 W - http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sony-Xplod-XS-R1644-6-1-2-4-Way-Speakers/14956456#Item+Description
Sub: 10 Inch JL .. I bought it used so I'm assuming its this one as the logo matches.. therefore... it is.. W0v3 10-inch Subwoofer Driver (300 W, 4 Ω) comes in an enclosure. - http://www.jlaudio.ca/10w0v3-4-car-audio-w0v3-subwoofer-drivers-92165
Deck : Eonon D5102 head unit - http://www.eonon.com/Car-DVD-Players/Specific-Car-DVD/D5102.html

SO YA. That's about it. I'm kinda overwhelmed with it all right now.
Updates are that I returned the tweeters as feedback I got elsewhere said I didn't need them.

In response to Default User
1. The car is a 2004 Mazda 3 Hatchback
2. I'm going to be using the thread posted about getting smaller speakers to fit to make a template for the small ones. The 6x8 should fit I think
3. The yellow-top is one of those things I might wait on I might not it depends on if the draw is too much and how much life my current battery has.
4. My specialty wiring I meant the stuff mentioned in one of the threads about "The Big 3" when it comes to audio systems.
I think it was thicker battery wiring, a better ground, and a better battery.. not sure though.

In response to PeterM
1. I feel stupid and I'm going to google it now but I don't know what Molex is :S
2. Two afternoons wouldn't be too bad. Hopefully I'd learn enough from somebody in the first afternoon to tackle the second by myself.
3. I'll probably go out and buy 100 ft of either 0 or 4 Gauge Speaker wire today.

In response to Khemiikalz
1. I could definitely set that up. I'll PM you later to figure out the details.
2. I dunno what a toggle switch is (Sorry I'm pretty ignorant although I am trying to learn)
3. I don't really care about being able to watch movies or whatever in my car. I just really like music and want something decent.
4. By cap you meant capacitor I hope! Which I got today so thats good. I also got a fuse block and fuses

In response to 2010maztre
1. After hearing what everyone is saying and my plans for the future I feel confident that 4 gauge as you have suggested will be the path I go down. I'm just confirming but Higher Gauge is worse? Lower gauge is better? I know it's probably a dumb question just making sure.
2. Is the fuse block I bought the same as a distribution block (it says on it for dual amps you need a fused distribution block) should I have gotten the fused distribution block?
3. Will I need a power cell if I have a capacitor?

Oh and in response to everyone in general a HUGE thank you. You guys/gals? lol are great! Hopefully you keep the advice coming. Don't be shy, chime in with suggestions, advice, telling me I'm an idiot, yada yada ya..

Cheers! Working through the frustration and how overwhelmed I am :bang but you guys are a great help. :D

[Default User]

The "Big 3" is simply upgrading to thicker gauge grounding wires. Nothin to do with the positive battery cables.

Doing the big 3 will definitely help with the voltage drops.

[ds08tf]

The "Big 3" is simply upgrading to thicker gauge grounding wires. Nothin to do with the positive battery cables.

Doing the big 3 will definitely help with the voltage drops.

Oh. My bad. Well I will be doing that as well. Where can I get the thicker gauge grounding wires? Canadian Tire?

[JayJay18]

Oh. My bad. Well I will be doing that as well. Where can I get the thicker gauge grounding wires? Canadian Tire?

http://www.knukonceptz.com/

by far the superior car audio wiring

[ds08tf]

I can't find where they sell 4 or better gauge wiring? Isn't that what I need?


http://www.knukonceptz.com/

by far the superior car audio wiring

[ace_master]

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[Genpu_Mz3]

In response to 2010maztre
1. After hearing what everyone is saying and my plans for the future I feel confident that 4 gauge as you have suggested will be the path I go down. I'm just confirming but Higher Gauge is worse? Lower gauge is better? I know it's probably a dumb question just making sure.
2. Is the fuse block I bought the same as a distribution block (it says on it for dual amps you need a fused distribution block) should I have gotten the fused distribution block?
3. Will I need a power cell if I have a capacitor?

Response:
1. yes 4 gauge is all you need and will be perfect, the lower gauge you go the thicker it is i.e. 0gauge is thicker then 4gauge. the bigger amount of wire you have the more current it can carry, 0gauge has more wire then 4gauge, 4 gauge has more wire then 8 gauge, 8 gauge has more wire then 12gauge etc.. etc..

2. a fused distribution block http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Car-AGU-Audio-Fuse-Box-80A-Amp-3-4-Out-Fuses-Holder-Block-4GA-8GA-Out-AMP-/400329976612?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Distribution_Bl ocks&hash=item5d3586ab24#ht_4654wt_932 is this what you have? if so yes its fine. aslong as its 4gauge in 4 gauge out.

3. if you have a capacitor, no you will not need a power cell, a power cell helps more along the lines of your dimming lights, as the capacitor helps out a little bit with that, the main purpose of it is to keep a consistant amount of power going to to your amplifier so theres no voltage drops.

4. if you feel like making the trip down to guelph, (map quest says its an 1hr25min drive) ill be more then willing to help you out with the install, i have all the tools, wood, and extra wiring (if needed) just gotta do it in my driveway. and hopfully as i explain everything in person it will clairify a few things for you.

[ds08tf]

I actually don't have that distribution block. Is there anywhere I can pick it up locally to avoid the shipping time? If there isn't I'll order that and about 100? 200? ft of 4 gauge wire. Also would you be free Friday November 2nd? I can drive down for sure. Respond to that via PM and we can discuss all the other matters from there. Thanks! :D



Response:
1. yes 4 gauge is all you need and will be perfect, the lower gauge you go the thicker it is i.e. 0gauge is thicker then 4gauge.

2. a fused distribution block http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Car-AGU-Audio-Fuse-Box-80A-Amp-3-4-Out-Fuses-Holder-Block-4GA-8GA-Out-AMP-/400329976612?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Distribution_Bl ocks&hash=item5d3586ab24#ht_4654wt_932 is this what you have? if so yes its fine. aslong as its 4gauge in 4 gauge out.

3. if you have a capacitor, no you will not need a power cell, a power cell helps more along the lines of your dimming lights, as the capacitor helps out a little bit with that, the main purpose of it is to keep a consistant amount of power going to to your amplifier so theres no voltage drops.

4. if you feel like making the trip down to guelph, (map quest says its an 1hr25min drive) ill be more then willing to help you out with the install, i have all the tools, wood, and extra wiring (if needed) just gotta do it in my driveway. and hopfully as i explain everything in person it will clairify a few things for you.

[ds08tf]

Perfect! +1
Thanks!


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Black http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX4BK

[Genpu_Mz3]

if you dont have the distribution block thatts fine, we can use your capacitor.

[peterm15]

.

In response to PeterM
1. I feel stupid and I'm going to google it now but I don't know what Molex is :S
2. Two afternoons wouldn't be too bad. Hopefully I'd learn enough from somebody in the first afternoon to tackle the second by myself.
3. I'll probably go out and buy 100 ft of either 0 or 4 Gauge Speaker wire today.

[


1. Molex is the plug that connects the door wire harness to the main wire harness. If you don't want to drill holds in your car. You'll need to go through this. It's a bitch but can be done.

2. The second afternoon would be mostly testing and putting your car back together. So that won't be an issue. Just a heads up if you need your car the next morning.

3. I used 12g ( I think) and that's over kill. You do need. 0,2 or 4g to hook your power and stuff up. But for speakers. 14 should be more then enough. You'll only need about 30 feet of power wire( to give you lots of extra). And 75 feet of speaker wire should be just fine. I was about 5' short with 50' so 15 extra feet should be more then enough.

I didn't read through any of the other posts. I just say my name in bold and responded.

[ds08tf]

hahaha that's fine! Thanks for the info. That's good about the different g speaker wire cause I already have some in the amp kits and I don't want to waste it.. oh welllll..
Appreciate the heads up too!
I will post (on this thread or a new one?) when I finish all the mods! so you can see how it went. If you care at all :p


1. Molex is the plug that connects the door wire harness to the main wire harness. If you don't want to drill holds in your car. You'll need to go through this. It's a bitch but can be done.

2. The second afternoon would be mostly testing and putting your car back together. So that won't be an issue. Just a heads up if you need your car the next morning.

3. I used 12g ( I think) and that's over kill. You do need. 0,2 or 4g to hook your power and stuff up. But for speakers. 14 should be more then enough. You'll only need about 30 feet of power wire( to give you lots of extra). And 75 feet of speaker wire should be just fine. I was about 5' short with 50' so 15 extra feet should be more then enough.

I didn't read through any of the other posts. I just say my name in bold and responded.

[TheMaterial]

Alright before I individually respond to responses. I will post up a complete updated list of exactly what I have with links. Please help me understand if there is anything I still need (or don't need as I can return stuff). The thingsI'm fairly sure I still need is a shit ton of 0 or 4 gauge speaker wire.
4 Channel 600 Watt Amp From Dual - http://www.crutchfield.com/S-PDq1hncSJyY/p_070XPA4640/Dual-XPA4640.html
1600 Total Watt (625 RMS) AMP 'n' CAP Wiring Kit (Comes with 500 K Cap) - http://shopping.canoe.ca/shop/product--productId_26432365.html
680 Watt (400 RMS) AMP wiring kit - http://shopping.canoe.ca/shop/product--offlinePageNumber_2__productId_26432433.html
In line Fuse Block and Maxi Fuses (Both from Scosche)
Scosche Stereo Connector For Mazda (Includes Power and Speaker Connecters)
Complete Car Stereo Tool Kit - http://shopping.canoe.ca/shop/product--offlinePageNumber_2__productId_26432399.html
17 FT of Car Stereo RCA Audio Cable (Gold plated ends blah blah)
Speakers: Pair of Pioneer 6x8 4 ohm, 250 W, 2 Way (Sorry about the confusion they are 6x8 not 6x9 - http://www.electronicsbonanza.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?sku=Pioneer-TSG6844R&idProduct=19525
Speakers: Pair of Sony Xplod 6.5', 4 ohm, 270 W - http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sony-Xplod-XS-R1644-6-1-2-4-Way-Speakers/14956456#Item+Description
Sub: 10 Inch JL .. I bought it used so I'm assuming its this one as the logo matches.. therefore... it is.. W0v3 10-inch Subwoofer Driver (300 W, 4 Ω) comes in an enclosure. - http://www.jlaudio.ca/10w0v3-4-car-audio-w0v3-subwoofer-drivers-92165
Deck : Eonon D5102 head unit - http://www.eonon.com/Car-DVD-Players/Specific-Car-DVD/D5102.html

SO YA. That's about it. I'm kinda overwhelmed with it all right now.
Updates are that I returned the tweeters as feedback I got elsewhere said I didn't need them.



Do you plan on only amplifying one set of speakers?

Lose the Sony's get something better.

If you don't plan on upgrading in the future, don't worry about the big 3 wiring upgrade. But the yellow top will help.

6.5's will need a plate to fit properly.

4 gauge should be good enough, unless you plan on making big upgrades in the future.

For those speakers don't worry about re running any speaker wire through the car. It's not needed. You can do a loop behind the deck and run the wires for the speakers from there.

Big questions are, upgrading in the future in this car, amplifying more than just the fronts? I'll draw you a wire schematic to make it easy. Shouldn't take you to long to do it, as long as your comfortable with the car, and have basic electric knowledge.

[mrjun18]

Ive heard Sony amps are not the greatest.

[goodcase]

Ive heard Sony amps are not the greatest.

Sony in general, not a huge fan of them.

[Jackal]

Ive heard Sony amps are not the greatest.

I heard they overheat. But I guess they are better now.

[Default User]

Ive heard Sony amps are not the greatest.

he isn't planning on getting a Sony amp

The older Sony amps were tough. its the Xplod series' that sucks

[wip]

Spend the money on the yellow top! i had one in the car but took it out to put in my infinity all the interior lights will dim if the sub hits hard enough atleast it did when i had the subs and im not sure if im understanding everything here properly but u know there is a wire kit running from the deck to the trunk right just making sure u knew that that way your not spending more money. i did that and then used a distributor block to go from one amp to the other

[mrjun18]

he isn't planning on getting a Sony amp

The older Sony amps were tough. its the Xplod series' that sucks

yep

[ds08tf]

Lol okay.. I'm keeping the xplod speakers cause I already have them sooo.. that's not really an option. I may upgrade later maybe not.
To wip, I know I never got a deck wiring kit because I saw that. What gauge did you use out of curiousity as the distro block I'm getting is 4 gauge.

[wip]

I have no idea! i paid to get everything installed i didnt really do anything my self

[CH0SiiN1]

Lol okay.. I'm keeping the xplod speakers cause I already have them sooo.. that's not really an option. I may upgrade later maybe not.
To wip, I know I never got a deck wiring kit because I saw that. What gauge did you use out of curiousity as the distro block I'm getting is 4 gauge.

Just check.. if you can't tell by looking then go to any store that sells wiring kits and look at the thickness of wire/gauge
0gauge is as thick as the width of a penny
4gauge us as thick as sharpie thin marker
Sorry for lame references lol

[Default User]

I'm pretty sure that the Eonon decks are plug and play (somebody correct me if I'm wrong) You won't need a HU wiring kit

[Genpu_Mz3]

I'm pretty sure that the Eonon decks are plug and play (somebody correct me if I'm wrong) You won't need a HU wiring kit

Yes they are plug and play, the come with everything needed, no need to buy a wiring kit.

[ds08tf]

Sounds good! I'm picking up the deck and a pair of camber arms in the states this Saturday. Also is 175 for a 1500 watt phoenix gold octane a good deal? Would that be a good amp to supplement the other amp I already have? And what should I do with WIP's wiring if I don't need it? Just leave it there?

thanks!

[Genpu_Mz3]

Sounds good! I'm picking up the deck and a pair of camber arms in the states this Saturday. Also is 175 for a 1500 watt phoenix gold octane a good deal? Would that be a good amp to supplement the other amp I already have? And what should I do with WIP's wiring if I don't need it? Just leave it there?

thanks!
that amp is more then enough power for your subwoofer. and yes $175 is a solid price. i dont know what he gave you. as long as you have 17-20ft of power wire 4ft of ground wire 75ft - 100ft of speaker wire (only if your amplifying your door speakers), a fuse, fuse holder, and 3 sets of rca's (only 1 if your only powering your sub with an amp) and 17-20ft of trigger wire, thats all your going to need.

[ds08tf]

Thanks for all the info maztre. I'll check how much wire I have and pick some up if I'm missing some. How much speaker wire do I need if I'm doing the sub with an amp as well as the speakers.

[Genpu_Mz3]

Thanks for all the info maztre. I'll check how much wire I have and pick some up if I'm missing some. How much speaker wire do I need if I'm doing the sub with an amp as well as the speakers.

75 - 100 ft of 16gauge to be safe

[ds08tf]

Ok I'll pick it up! Thanks!

[ds08tf]

Got the Phoenix Gold Octane amp and have plans to meet up with another member next Sunday to install all this good stuff! I'll post updates when it's finished! Thanks again all! :)