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View Full Version : 2004 Mazda3 GT Automatic - 131XXX KMS - AT LIGHT ON



Seanhfx
04-05-2013, 11:31 PM
Hey there TM3. Sorry this got long as I typed - wanted to make sure to provide enough info:)

Got a problem with my 04 Mazda3 GT 4 speed automatic that I have owned since new - Just over 9 years old with 131xxx Kms. This morning when I turned the car on, the AT LIGHT stayed on. WHen I shifted the car into R, a BIG CLUNK was heard and the car kinda shook. So I back out of the drive way and put it in drive - it shifts OK with no clunk and shaking.

I drive off slowly...and when it shifted from 1st to 2nd - it reminded me of shiftshock known problem which I haven't had for years since ECU update to correct that problem. The shifts were also quicker, meaning it shifted at less RPMS like 3000RPM. The rest of the gear changes to 4th were very quick - wasn't hard on gas obviously and in 4th at like 40km/h. Ok, so I drive it about 4-5 kms in like 8 minutes causiously to the bus terminal. I Reverse in the parking spot and the car didn't shake as much (just in case I needed a tow at night)....put it in PARK and it made the clunk sound again....pretty harsh this time.

Turn car OFF....take key out and then go to restart the car. This time the AT light did not come on. Just wanted to check to see if it was related to engine temp cold vs at temperature. Turned car off and went to work.

Called my mechanic and they suggest I take it to a tranny shop they trust. have an appt for Monday.

So here is what I have learned with driving the car since this morning:

- AT LIGHT comes ON when engine TEMP is COLD - car sitting more than 2-3 hours. When AT light is on - Shifting into R causes clunk and the car jolts (shakes). I cringe when this happens.
- Drive the car 10 minutes - at first, shifts are fast and shift at lower RPM than usual (maybe because I'm not on the gas as much). Shift to 1-2 is like shift shock problem, but haven't had that for years. When car reaches TEMP, AT LIGHT STAYS ON, but shifts seem a little better. When I stop and put it in P - no clunking or jolting from Tranny.
- TURN CAR OFF
- Immediately TURN car ON or within hour or so while car is at normal TEMP - NO AT LIGHT - car seems to shift normally and no clunking and shaking at all when shifting.

Serving/Checks

- Had tranny flush done I think 2 - 2 1/2 years ago
- I check the fluid a few times a year - on flat surface but usually when car is cold and not running - the fluid has been and is still PINKish in colour and at the higher end of normal - always been the same.
- Researching this problem, I guess the proper way to check tranny fluid is when car is at operating temperature while car is running - I've never done that and didn't do that today.
- Engine oil/filter has always been changed every 4-6 months with 5000 to 8000 kms since new.

Obviously I don't know what the problem is - hoping it isn't internal (ie: rebuild) as I would think (I'm not mechanic) that if it was internal, wouldn't it happen all the time?

Taking to tranny shop for Monday - but will drop it off Sunday so they can start the car when it is COLD - to scan and verify.

Any like to give the possible solution based on the facts provided?

Many Thanks, Sean

Seanhfx
04-09-2013, 04:05 PM
Not that it matters as nobody gave any input but I gave the OK to replace the control valve body.

Johns 08 3 GT
04-09-2013, 04:57 PM
Not that it matters as nobody gave any input but I gave the OK to replace the control valve body.

Is that what they said was the problem? What codes did they pull?

A fairly common problem is the turbine speed sensor stops working. It is for the internal speed of the trans IIRC.

Seanhfx
04-09-2013, 07:48 PM
Is that what they said was the problem? What codes did they pull?

A fairly common problem is the turbine speed sensor stops working. It is for the internal speed of the trans IIRC.

Yes, after 2 days of having the car, they diagnosed this is the problem. He gave me several options to replace specific components in the control vavle body but in his experience, you replace one piece and it doesn't fix the problem, then repeat, repeat, repeat. The problems that I had are not consistent with the turbine sensor problem. Atleast not what I found with google. The biggest difference is that the tranny shifted through all gears and got better as the car warmed up. When I recycled the engine after reaching operating temperature, the AT light did NOT appear and the tranny worked as usual.

I decided to go for a rebuilt part rather than new which was $1200 at Mazda. The tranny shop has sourced rebuilt valve body and is providing a warranty of 1 year parts/labour. I didn't want to spend more than 900/1000 on this repair, so I will be happy just as long as it fixes the problem :). I did tell him though that we will come to an arrangement if the AT light comes on Thursday morning.

Seanhfx
04-10-2013, 08:37 PM
PROBLEM SOLVED - UPDATE - April 10th (thought I would update for future searches)
Yup control valve body replaced along with transmission service and filter replacement. GOOD AS NEW!