4 channel amp install question

[Satch]

I'm installing a 300w Alpine 4 channel amp to power my JL Audio door speakers. I need to know what is the best way to connect from the amp to the door speakers. Am I supposed to splice into the stock speaker wires at the head unit or do I have to run new wire directly to the door speakers. Running directly to the door speakers seems like a lot of work. Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks.

[JayJay18]

u definitely want to run a bigger gauge wire, either 18 or 16 gauge so be more than adequate.
the stock wiring is very small

[ryanbarrie]

I'm installing a 300w Alpine 4 channel amp to power my JL Audio door speakers. I need to know what is the best way to connect from the amp to the door speakers. Am I supposed to splice into the stock speaker wires at the head unit or do I have to run new wire directly to the door speakers. Running directly to the door speakers seems like a lot of work. Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks.


I would say 14guage but if you want to learn some hardcore information go read up on http://www.bcae1.com/

[peterm15]

I rewired mine with 14 or 12. You need about 75 ft.

It's a PITA to get through the molex if that is what you choose to do.

[zoomahh]

I would say 14guage but if you want to learn some hardcore information go read up on http://www.bcae1.com/

Thanks for posting this AWESOME link bro ! ! ! Nice find :thumbsup

[DLYDRVN]

As far as gauge goes, 16 or 18 is pretty reasonable. That amp is running about 75wpc. 14awg wire can handle about 900w into 4ohms... Overkill and hard as hell to get through the doors. Even 16awg can handle about 500w. 18awg is good for about 200W conservatively into 4ohms.

You should run new wire to each speaker in the door directly from the amp. I will sometimes cheat and splice in to the speaker wire on the interior of the car right before it enters the grommet, but the bulk of your run should be new, higher gauge cable.

[Lumberjack]

Don't you mean lower gauge?


As far as gauge goes, 16 or 18 is pretty reasonable. That amp is running about 75wpc. 14awg wire can handle about 900w into 4ohms... Overkill and hard as hell to get through the doors. Even 16awg can handle about 500w. 18awg is good for about 200W conservatively into 4ohms.

You should run new wire to each speaker in the door directly from the amp. I will sometimes cheat and splice in to the speaker wire on the interior of the car right before it enters the grommet, but the bulk of your run should be new, higher gauge cable.

[DLYDRVN]

Yes. I should have been clearer _heavier_ gauge wire!

[Flagrum_3]

As far as gauge goes, 16 or 18 is pretty reasonable. That amp is running about 75wpc. 14awg wire can handle about 900w into 4ohms... Overkill and hard as hell to get through the doors. Even 16awg can handle about 500w. 18awg is good for about 200W conservatively into 4ohms.

You should run new wire to each speaker in the door directly from the amp. I will sometimes cheat and splice in to the speaker wire on the interior of the car right before it enters the grommet, but the bulk of your run should be new, higher gauge cable.

Cheating will just defeat the whole purpose of using heavier gauge wiring...i.e; bottleneck. ;-)

My 4channel is pushing approx 100w per/ch using 18g wiring directly from the amp to the speakers (unrestricted).
Keep your runs as short as possible, and 'even' length to both or all speakers, (as much as possible). You will have no issues


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[DLYDRVN]

Cheating will just defeat the whole purpose of using heavier gauge wiring...i.e; bottleneck. ;-)
_3

Not necessarily. On all three of my mazdas that i've worked on the wiring harness is 18AWG to the doors so no bottleneck there. Admittedly I only do that on the rear doors usually if i do it at all. But if the factory wire is heavy enough it saves half an hour plus of trying to get the new wire through the grommet!

[Flagrum_3]

Not necessarily. On all three of my mazdas that i've worked on the wiring harness is 18AWG to the doors so no bottleneck there. Admittedly I only do that on the rear doors usually if i do it at all. But if the factory wire is heavy enough it saves half an hour plus of trying to get the new wire through the grommet!

Well from what I remember the OEM guage size was definately not 18awg, more like possibly 22g or a 24g, but I may be mistaken. It has been several years.
Furthermore, it's not just the size of the wire, but the construction which effects the flow; Purity of the copper, no. of windings, quality of insulation etc; etc.


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[DLYDRVN]

Furthermore, it's not just the size of the wire, but the construction which effects the flow; Purity of the copper, no. of windings, quality of insulation etc; etc.
_3

Not especially. For speaker level signals and at audio frequencies those things have little if any affect on the integrity of the signal. Geometry and dielectric only have a small consideration even on line level signals. There's a rather famous ABX test run on some audiophiles done between some THX monster speaker wire, some beldon OFC and coat hangers. No one could reliably tell the difference.

A number of engineers that I work with (including myself) have run similar tests, and there is little to no measurable difference, let alone an audible one, between speaker level cable of almost any construction, assuming all else is equal (termination quality, connection quality etc..).

With the car as a listening environment, I'd put up the slips to my car that no one could reliably tell the difference between the factory wire in the doors and any upgraded cable in an ABX test.

[Flagrum_3]

Not especially. For speaker level signals and at audio frequencies those things have little if any affect on the integrity of the signal. Geometry and dielectric only have a small consideration even on line level signals. There's a rather famous ABX test run on some audiophiles done between some THX monster speaker wire, some beldon OFC and coat hangers. No one could reliably tell the difference.

A number of engineers that I work with (including myself) have run similar tests, and there is little to no measurable difference, let alone an audible one, between speaker level cable of almost any construction, assuming all else is equal (termination quality, connection quality etc..).

With the car as a listening environment, I'd put up the slips to my car that no one could reliably tell the difference between the factory wire in the doors and any upgraded cable in an ABX test.

I won't argue the issue and I would definately like to see those test papers. First thing I see that bothers me is the use of Monster cable ;-),...not my first or last choice for wiring. Second is the use of a coat hanger-no insulation? Wouldn't ever work in a automotive audio environment ...The simple point was and is; why cut corners? Run a direct line from amp to speaker with no breaks or uneccesary connections....Simple, and less chance of issues down the road.


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[DLYDRVN]

Well I certainly wont argue the monster cable point! Obviously I wouldn't advocate the use of coat hangers at all, simply that as an experiment it's evidence that all else being equal, conductor composition and geometry has little to no impact on sound, assuming properly sized and terminated runs.

I don't think its about cutting corners. I just think it's about finding a balance that yields quality and value for effort/money. I'd certainly prefer to run cable unbroken from amp to speaker, but in some cars it might not be practical when time is factored in. The front doors on my 3 were dead easy, the front doors on my two i damn near killed myself trying to get the wires through those loom grommets!

In my mind, and in my experience, both approaches, _properly done_ should net you equal quality and reliability results. Of course all that is contingent on there being adequately size wire in the doors. If thats not the case then the point is moot!



I won't argue the issue and I would definately like to see those test papers. First thing I see that bothers me is the use of Monster cable ;-),...not my first or last choice for wiring. Second is the use of a coat hanger-no insulation? Wouldn't ever work in a automotive audio environment ...The simple point was and is; why cut corners? Run a direct line from amp to speaker with no breaks or uneccesary connections....Simple, and less chance of issues down the road.


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[DLYDRVN]

I should add, I hope i'm not coming off as confrontational! My intent is really just discussion, so I hope I'm coming across civilly!

[Lumberjack]

Nope, but I think we have to realize that we all don't think the same - if we did we would ALL be listening to Country music...

For the other person - I am not advocating cutting corners but lets face facts that we as humans take the path of least resistance. It is far easier to preach to someone what they should do while ignoring it ourselves. Even you don't it doesn't mean that everyone else has to - we all have a choice. I am still trying to understand why there is a Fast and Furious 6 out in the theaters... and 1,2,3,4, and 5...

You could use the best cable and best equipment only to hear some genre of music that is terrible to my ears. Or perhaps only my dog or an oscilloscope could actually hear the difference. If you have money to burn or time to waste I say go for it! However, some people have more important things to do like tell everyone what they are now doing on facebook.:D



I should add, I hope i'm not coming off as confrontational! My intent is really just discussion, so I hope I'm coming across civilly!

[Flagrum_3]

Nope, but I think we have to realize that we all don't think the same - if we did we would ALL be listening to Country music...

For the other person - I am not advocating cutting corners but lets face facts that we as humans take the path of least resistance. It is far easier to preach to someone what they should do while ignoring it ourselves. Even you don't it doesn't mean that everyone else has to - we all have a choice. I am still trying to understand why there is a Fast and Furious 6 out in the theaters... and 1,2,3,4, and 5...

You could use the best cable and best equipment only to hear some genre of music that is terrible to my ears. Or perhaps only my dog or an oscilloscope could actually hear the difference. If you have money to burn or time to waste I say go for it! However, some people have more important things to do like tell everyone what they are now doing on facebook.:D

Thats the difference between a professional and a mediocre attitude. There is an old saying in the trades, and it covers any endeavour in your life actually; If your going to do a job, do it right, or don't do it at all...One of the many problems nowadays, no one cares about doing a quality job.

Many may not hear the difference and many are also tone deaf, but the question is; Do you want issues down the road? The very little extra time taken, initially, to do the job right, will give you years of listening enjoyment without issues....thats my point.

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