Help with understanding aftermarket wheels

[LimeWan]

Hello everyone! I am new to the TM3 forum, and after recently purchasing a Mazda 3, I would like to begin exploring things to do to my vehicle. I felt this was the right place to go to, especially for asking questions, because of all of the experience in this forum.

As for my question, I have a 2013 Mazda 3 Hatch, and have been looking into upgrading to aftermarket wheels, purely for cosmetic purposes. I am not too interested in any performance gains to be quite honest.

I have been considering 17" Enkei wheels, with the tire to be decided later.

If I have been understanding correctly, depending on the size and width of your wheel, rubbing could occur, the wheel could hit the suspension, etc. What I want to understand is how would I find out how much I need to offset or backspace a new set of wheels, if it is even necessary.

If we were to consider these:

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=runWheelSearch&wheelMake=Enkei+Performance&wheelModel=Imola&wheelFinish=Black+Painted&autoMake=Mazda&autoModel=Mazda3+5-Door&autoYear=2013&autoModClar=i+Grand+Touring

Would this be something I could simply install in my garage by replacing it with my current stock wheels? Also, how can one go about offsetting wheels if it is necessary?

Thank you!

[r4mi5awi]

Those wheels will fit. Generally an offset of +50 or lesser depending on rim width. Make sure you search an offset calculator and play around with the values. Find tires that will keep the overall diameter the same as stock wheels. Keep in mind changes to speedo. Congrats on the new car. Don't rush on the wheels before doing more research till you feel comfortable.

Not sure if I'm missing anything else, hopefully more experienced members will chime in :)

[greyseason]

Those wheels will fit. Generally an offset of +50 or lesser depending on rim width. Make sure you search an offset calculator and play around with the values. Find tires that will keep the overall diameter the same as stock wheels. Keep in mind changes to speedo. Congrats on the new car. Don't rush on the wheels before doing more research till you feel comfortable.

Not sure if I'm missing anything else, hopefully more experienced members will chime in :)

+1 to everything above. If youre not looking for performance gains, i believe almost any wheel that is minimum +50 and 5x114.3 ( the lower offset you go, the more the wheel with 'poke' out towards the fender) will fit. Rim width shouldnt be a problem unless youre looking for wiide wheels.

[LimeWan]

So really, most of these wheels that I am considering should not be a problem? As long as I get them shipped balanced, it should be as easy as installing them in my own garage?

After looking at some other models, some have a width of 7" and an offset of 45mm. After using the offset calculator, I still don't know what it means. I know that it tells me the inner and outer boundaries of the new wheel relative to the old one, but how do you actually adjust the offset, if this can even be done?

Thank you guys for the help!

[LimeWan]

Cannot find option to edit post. Would be greatly appreciated if one could help me out with that to avoid back to back posts in the future.

However, after one more search, it appears that offset is something that can't be adjusted, and your choice of wheels should not be too much greater or less than your current offset. This being said, even 45mm should be okay, between 7-7.5"?

Also, to everyone that lowers their vehicle, should this have any impact on which wheels you choose, or if they are suitable at stock height, they should be fine with the vehicle lowered?

Lastly, where would someone be able to replace their springs, after having ordered online?

Thanks again!

[cwp_sedan]

You need 100 posts to edit and the edit is only available for 8 hours or something like that. Funny is I don't even remember.

[greyseason]

Cannot find option to edit post. Would be greatly appreciated if one could help me out with that to avoid back to back posts in the future.

However, after one more search, it appears that offset is something that can't be adjusted, and your choice of wheels should not be too much greater or less than your current offset. This being said, even 45mm should be okay, between 7-7.5"?

Also, to everyone that lowers their vehicle, should this have any impact on which wheels you choose, or if they are suitable at stock height, they should be fine with the vehicle lowered?

Lastly, where would someone be able to replace their springs, after having ordered online?

Thanks again!

No the offset cant be change, but you can purchase spacers later on if you feel the wheel 'sticks in' too much. I see quite a few members with +45 and 7.5" so you should be good. Id love to write out more, but id rather a more experienced member chime in so you get the correct information.

But heres what im looking at since im always browsing
Size - 17' or 18'
offset - between +35-+50
Width - 7'-8' wide

rims need to be hub centric

ALSO i believe you need 100 posts to edit your posts

[LimeWan]

I just don't want to clog up the thread by double posting, but I guess I didn't have a choice back then.

Loving the forum so far, by the way!

[r4mi5awi]

Just for future reference, in the Google search bar, type site:torontomazda3.ca and then your inquiry.

For example: site:torontomazda3.ca will this fit?

You should be able to find numerous results for the questions you're asking.

Nevertheless, check the wheel and tire thread in this forum, there should be a sticky describing the basics to wheel knowledge, I believe. Keep note of basic tire knowledge such as the plus sizing rule of thumb (0, +1, +2) and what recommended factors to consider in size. If you want 17"rims 215/45/17 tires are standard and safe, 225/40/18 for 18" rims.

Every manufacturer offers certain offsets compared to others. You should be safe with +50 upto +37 on your 2013 Mazda. Again most manufacturers have different hub sizes, Mazda's is 67.1, as long as you get equal or larger you will be safe. Most have larger hub sizes by default to accommodate so you will most likely need hub rings.

The preference of 17" or 18" is up to you, personally I'd go 18" as 17" might not be as noticeably appealing to the eye. Comfort difference is minimal unless dropped on stiffer springs which might also cause rubbing depending on offset and how lowered you are.

Best is to search as you go along, one bit will lead to more, as you'll find yourself asking about tuner lug nut sizes, spacers, hub rings, etc.

[LimeWan]

Don't worry about it. You helped A TON already. Thank you for that.

As for the specifications you listed, anything that falls within that range should be acceptable? Say you found a 17" tire with 35-40mm even?

What I didn't realize though was that I had already entered the model of the car in the search function of TireRack, so it was displaying results for this vehicle anyway. It should make searching a whole lot easier, and I'm glad to have a basic understanding of things now.

Also, do most people usually perform modifications themselves in their own homes or go to shops? I would much rather learn to upgrade my car myself if I have the opportunity.

[LimeWan]

Is there a noticeable difference in the ride confort or 'durability' of an 18" wheel. And as far as lowering goes, that poses more challenges. How would you be able to ensure there would be no rubbing if you decide to lower your vehicle?

[peterm15]

Is there a noticeable difference in the ride confort or 'durability' of an 18" wheel. And as far as lowering goes, that poses more challenges. How would you be able to ensure there would be no rubbing if you decide to lower your vehicle?

A 17 and 18" wheel should be the same circumference with tire.


18's are slightly heavier, as well as a "shorter" tire. So it will be a difference in ride quality as well as pickup speed. I wouldn't say a huge difference though.

[r4mi5awi]

Tire rack is nice but sometimes won't give you more options unless you specifically search by wheel size alone, if you know what you're doing.

I've been learning to do things myself yet I've realized its been more costly to me than going to a professional shop if you're starting from scratch, with next to no tools, no jack, etc. and buying them as you mod along lol Unless you have a garage full of tools, generous friends, and the willingness to learn, go for it!

[peterm15]

^^^
Never had that problem. I've always just liked tools. So I've bought them. I have many I've never even used/have no idea what they are for. Lol.

[greyseason]

^^ exactly what he said. It can be costly if you have to buy all the tools but is pretty awesome to say you've installed it yourself. I've personally done my lowering springs and led reflectors myself with HUGE help and thanks from the locals around here.

[LimeWan]

Thought that it would be nice to do things on my own, but just as you guys guessed, I would be starting from scratch. Essentially buying tools as different projects may come along. Not best method though.

I just need to find a good shop around the Mississauga or Oakville area. I have been looking through the 'Shops' subforum to look for any good shops.

On a side note, I have decided that as far as tinting goes, Audio Heaven is worth the drive all the way to Richmond Hill. Nothing but exceptional reviews.

[greyseason]

Thought that it would be nice to do things on my own, but just as you guys guessed, I would be starting from scratch. Essentially buying tools as different projects may come along. Not best method though.

I just need to find a good shop around the Mississauga or Oakville area. I have been looking through the 'Shops' subforum to look for any good shops.

On a side note, I have decided that as far as tinting goes, Audio Heaven is worth the drive all the way to Richmond Hill. Nothing but exceptional reviews.

Everybody will recommend jimmy at street performance cause he apparently does amazing work at fair prices.
You don't need to have all the tools but a jack, socket set, stands and some screw drivers and you can do quite a bit. some members will offer they're knowledge and know how for a price (Hyperion and Mcguiver) and some will open up their home garages/driveways to have an install day. I'm on my phone, but where are you located?

[LimeWan]

Also depends on how much you shell out for these tools. You can go cheap on them, but chances are they'll break much sooner. As far as where I'm located, it's around the Mavis & Dundas area.

[greyseason]

Shucks, if you were closer I'd help when I could

[LimeWan]

That's alright. I'm sure more opportunities will come up in the future. Thank you for lending a helping hand.

Of any forum, I honestly don't believe that they come remotely close to the amount of help and sense of community that you get from this forum. Also blown away at how large of a community this is, even in just the GTA alone.

[r4mi5awi]

I'm from the Lorne Park area (Mississauga rd & Lakeshore) and still consider myself a novice but if you'd like any help with swapping wheels, installing basic stuff, or jacking up the car to look at her panties, shoot me a pm :)

[greyseason]

I'm from the Lorne Park area (Mississauga rd & Lakeshore) and still consider myself a novice but if you'd like any help with swapping wheels, installing basic stuff, or jacking up the car to look at her panties, shoot me a pm :)

LOL that was amazing

[peterm15]

LOL that was amazing

+1

[rajin929]

But heres what im looking at since im always browsing
Size - 17' or 18'
offset - between +35-+50
Width - 7'-8' wide

rims need to be hub centric


most aftermarket wheels have a 73mm bore, just need to get the right hubcentric ring to use on the mazda

[gotak]

Not to be a wet cloth but hope you have budget for winter tires after this. It's all nice and good to get something for looks but it's also good to have the right equipment for the job. And for winter you should have winter tires and steel rims. A good set of winter tires can be expensive.

Also, consider the cost of replacement tires if you decide to go 18 inch. I sometimes wish the Speed3 came with 17 inch rims. Tires would cost so much less.

[rzapata]

Not to be a wet cloth but hope you have budget for winter tires after this. It's all nice and good to get something for looks but it's also good to have the right equipment for the job. And for winter you should have winter tires and steel rims. A good set of winter tires can be expensive.

Also, consider the cost of replacement tires if you decide to go 18 inch. I sometimes wish the Speed3 came with 17 inch rims. Tires would cost so much less.

Sell 18s and buy 17s. You can fit 17s easily on the speed3. A lot of people here run 17s even on a daliy basis.

[Lactose]

Jackstands and Jack and the proper tools to swap a tire are 100% worth it. (when on Sale at CT). One tirechange at a decent shop is like $60, x2 for a year. On top of that you can use it to when you add that lip kit to your car, install mudflaps etc. I installed my Rally Armors with the Jack in the trunk and on a lowered car, painful as ****.

Tools are worth it in the long run if you DIY. It's also a great way to learn.

As for lowering the car, I'm not sure there's a surefire way to know until you've tried and/or someone else has. From reading some of the posts here from the crazy people (;)) they do a lot of towing around with spacers and fender rolling and what nots to get a poper fit. Your best bet in that sense is to just browse the old topics. See what they've talked about and the specs.

Know what you're getting into. I almost made the mistake of getting coilovers/sportlines without doing reasearch into needing camber arms. Would have been unforseen expenses.

[GWN]

Only way to really get to know your way around this stuff is to just jump into it. Go with safe sizes at first (Will this fit thread will help) and from there you can actually see how much room you have to play with and what sizes are or aren't possible on our cars. Most people start out with lowering springs and I'd recommend going that route as well, takes a whole dimension out of playing the fitment game and it's a good way to get into it.

Once you're comfortable with your knowledge and what you can do, get some coils (bags are for groceries lmao) and just go to work on it if fitment is what you're ultimately after ;)

[greyseason]

Only way to really get to know your way around this stuff is to just jump into it. Go with safe sizes at first (Will this fit thread will help) and from there you can actually see how much room you have to play with and what sizes are or aren't possible on our cars. Most people start out with lowering springs and I'd recommend going that route as well, takes a whole dimension out of playing the fitment game and it's a good way to get into it.

Once you're comfortable with your knowledge and what you can do, get some coils (bags are for groceries lmao) and just go to work on it if fitment is what you're ultimately after ;)

amazing

[LimeWan]

These are great tips. Thank you guys. I will just take it slow and steady. Will likely get some basic tools as well, as they will pay for themselves in the long run.

One thing I am unsure of is about insurance now. After reading some threads, some people have been denied insurance for simply lowering their car, among many other things, and have been sent to another insurance company.

Right now the vehicle is insured with TD. How will something as simple as getting aftermarket wheels affect the insurance, if at all?

On another side note, after looking at some cars that can't even get into their driveways after lowering their vehicle, I'm not so sure that's the best thing to do, especially in the winter. Perhaps it just depends on how much you lower the vehicle? What seems to be the sweet spot in terms of aesthetics, but also day to day driving (Not having to worry about speed bumps, snow in winter, etc)

Thanks again!

[Lactose]

These are great tips. Thank you guys. I will just take it slow and steady. Will likely get some basic tools as well, as they will pay for themselves in the long run.

One thing I am unsure of is about insurance now. After reading some threads, some people have been denied insurance for simply lowering their car, among many other things, and have been sent to another insurance company.

Right now the vehicle is insured with TD. How will something as simple as getting aftermarket wheels affect the insurance, if at all?

On another side note, after looking at some cars that can't even get into their driveways after lowering their vehicle, I'm not so sure that's the best thing to do, especially in the winter. Perhaps it just depends on how much you lower the vehicle? What seems to be the sweet spot in terms of aesthetics, but also day to day driving (Not having to worry about speed bumps, snow in winter, etc)

Thanks again!

Insurance talk to a broker. Most companies will cancel you if you're lowered (suspension) doesnt matter how little.

For the winter time, Eibach prokit (springs) are perfectly fine. I run them on my car and I had a EZLip (for testing) and it only gave me a problem once when I just didnt wanna shovel the ice to get into my drive way. My dad drives my car too so the Prokits are perfect for a slight drop without the issues of bumps, snow and ice. You can use Gen2 springs or Gen1 for a "better/even" drop.

Lowering is up to you. Prokits are enough for some, not enough for others. Your real options for lowereing are Springs, Coilovers or Air Suspension (or bags).

TLDR: My suggestion if you don't want the hassle of wheel fitment, lower car, and winter driving is the Prokits. Insurance can be a bitch.

[LimeWan]

Is lowering your car really worth the hype? Considering the fact that insurance is such a pain, I'm surprised at how many people still lower their cars. What I'm thinking in terms of what order I will modify anything, it will likely be tinted windows first, then aftermarket wheels, then will have to see from there. I also read about certain springs that the manufacturer doesn't recommend on the Skyactiv models.

If all is fine and I decide to go ahead with this, where did you get your springs replaced?

[Ozil]

I don't think having prokits will be an issue for insurance purpose. And you should go to Jimmy at Street Performance to get your springs replaced, it'll cost $140.

[LimeWan]

Would me mind me asking who you are personally insured with?

May call TD tomorrow to inquire about it, but would like to hear what people in the community are doing first.

[greyseason]

Would me mind me asking who you are personally insured with?

May call TD tomorrow to inquire about it, but would like to hear what people in the community are doing first.

im insured with INtact. But the whole thing about being dropped because of mods, Im almost positive its a insurer by insurer basis. I read that a member was asked if he had any mods worth over $5grand.He was still insured but i believe got a slight premium increase. Insurance wants to know whats on your car incase its stolen and they have to pay out. Now is it 1 mod worth $5000, or $5000 worth of parts, because those are two different things haha.

That reminds me that i need to 'inqure' about lowering my car and see what my insurance lady says. Hopefully good things! she was really chill when i bought the car

[Lactose]

im insured with INtact. But the whole thing about being dropped because of mods, Im almost positive its a insurer by insurer basis. I read that a member was asked if he had any mods worth over $5grand.He was still insured but i believe got a slight premium increase. Insurance wants to know whats on your car incase its stolen and they have to pay out. Now is it 1 mod worth $5000, or $5000 worth of parts, because those are two different things haha.

That reminds me that i need to 'inqure' about lowering my car and see what my insurance lady says. Hopefully good things! she was really chill when i bought the car

that's 90% Belair. They ask you at first if its over $5000, then during the insurance deal they ask if you have ANY mods done to the car.

[greyseason]

that's 90% Belair. They ask you at first if its over $5000, then during the insurance deal they ask if you have ANY mods done to the car.

90% belair what? Chance that it's them?

[Lactose]

90% belair what? Chance that it's them?

Ya. I think out of all the companies I shopped for, they were the only ones to ask if anything was modded over 5k.

[greyseason]

Ya. I think out of all the companies I shopped for, they were the only ones to ask if anything was modded over 5k.

oh gotcha, Im going to call tomorrow if theyre ooen or monday in ask about it

[Lactose]

oh gotcha, Im going to call tomorrow if theyre ooen or monday in ask about it

Let me know, if they dont care about lowered cars I may have to switch.

[greyseason]

Let me know, if they dont care about lowered cars I may have to switch.

you get er bud

[wmzda5]

Try Johnson insurance, they dont even ask. When i was with them they were the lowest, saved me 1100 / year. Now with my eldest son driving, two of us with 2 cars johnson is way expensive so i switched to The Personal. They asked me if its modded , I told the lady both the mazda5 and the wrx are lowered. No increase in premium.

[wmzda5]

With the fitment you want, you might want to look into other forums, they may have pictures of the fitment you want giving you a visual idea of what it will look like. Try mazda247. Most mazdas are safe with 225/40/18.

[wmzda5]

Yeah tools are a pain in the A##. There is a nice low profile jack from costco selling for $100 I believe its Torin its aluminum.

[r4BBiT]

Try Johnson insurance, they dont even ask. When i was with them they were the lowest, saved me 1100 / year. Now with my eldest son driving, two of us with 2 cars johnson is way expensive so i switched to The Personal. They asked me if its modded , I told the lady both the mazda5 and the wrx are lowered. No increase in premium.

+1 I'm with Jonhson Isurance as well and they gave us very good premiums with all kind of discounts including alumni. They are broker firm so they find you the best deal.

[LimeWan]

Is it even worth purchasing a floor jack with axle stands? it just seems that wheels are going to become unbalanced anyway, so lets say you try and perform your own tire rotation, or switch your own summer and winter tires, the tires won't be balanced.

Today is the last day for a sale at Canadian tire; $89.99 for a floor jack with two axle stands:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/FathersDay/CarGuy/GarageEssentials/PRD~0091055P/Certified+3-Ton+Jack+Kit.jsp?locale=en

Worth a buy or not? In terms of reliability for an inexpensive jack, the reviews seem very good, so my only question is will it be of any use if I won't be able to balance my tires?

Thank you!

[Lactose]

Try Johnson insurance, they dont even ask. When i was with them they were the lowest, saved me 1100 / year. Now with my eldest son driving, two of us with 2 cars johnson is way expensive so i switched to The Personal. They asked me if its modded , I told the lady both the mazda5 and the wrx are lowered. No increase in premium.

Usually it' stated on the papers that you have to tell them. When it comes time THEY CAN (usually) give you trouble. I was with The Personal. I called the and the lady told me straight up that I can't have my car lowered or they will cancel.


Is it even worth purchasing a floor jack with axle stands? it just seems that wheels are going to become unbalanced anyway, so lets say you try and perform your own tire rotation, or switch your own summer and winter tires, the tires won't be balanced.

Today is the last day for a sale at Canadian tire; $89.99 for a floor jack with two axle stands:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/FathersDay/CarGuy/GarageEssentials/PRD~0091055P/Certified+3-Ton+Jack+Kit.jsp?locale=en

Worth a buy or not? In terms of reliability for an inexpensive jack, the reviews seem very good, so my only question is will it be of any use if I won't be able to balance my tires?

Thank you!

If you get simple swap from CT they dont rebalance. As long as nothng happened to the wheel you shouldnt need to rebalance (afaik). Doing your own rotation is fine.

[LimeWan]

If you get simple swap from CT they dont rebalance. As long as nothng happened to the wheel you shouldnt need to rebalance (afaik). Doing your own rotation is fine.

Really, because I have heard that from the moment your car leaves the shop, the tires begin to become unbalanced again (extremely minuscule amount , effect would be seen over long period of time).

So this is a good deal for something that I'll use to swap summer/winter tires and rotate?

[r4mi5awi]

AFAIK, I've never heard of having to rebalance every wheel after every rotation. You'll save yourself $40/year on tire rotations if you do it yourself. Keep in mind it's prudent to buy a 1/2" driver torque wrench and socket set. The manual supplies a nice diagram and torque specs I believe. The cost of tools add up for the simplest things at the onset. You may never see any saving until 5+ years, unless you have more than 1 car :beer:

[greyseason]

Really, because I have heard that from the moment your car leaves the shop, the tires begin to become unbalanced again (extremely minuscule amount , effect would be seen over long period of time).

So this is a good deal for something that I'll use to swap summer/winter tires and rotate?


AFAIK, I've never heard of having to rebalance every wheel after every rotation. You'll save yourself $40/year on tire rotations if you do it yourself. Keep in mind it's prudent to buy a 1/2" driver torque wrench and socket set. The cost of tools add up for the simplest things at the onset.

Rami is right. Technically youre wheel will slightly be off every time you hit a pothole or speedbump going fast. Not alot but its there. You need to have new wheels balenced for sure, or else the ride would suck, and youd feel the wheel off balance.

If youre going to lower your car, i think that jack will be too high. If you can, try and grab a low-profile, high lift jack from canadian tire. I hear they go on sale a few times a year. Also, is there a princess auto near you? They have great prices

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoTools/LiftingEquipment/PRD~0091052P/Michelin+2+Ton+Low+Profile+High+Lift+Service+Jack. jsp?locale=en

this is the jack, and last time i saw, it went on sale for $150

[LimeWan]

Forgot about the torque wrench. Was just focusing on the immediate things that are on sale right now. I did have ideas about lowering the vehicle, but after all this messy insurance stuff, hassle to go over speed bumps, worrying about rubbing, etc, maybe I'll hold off on that.

Ideally, I just want to have a good looking set of black wheels, so even deciding between 17" and 18" shouldn't be a big deal. These will be going on a black car anyway, so perhaps the 1" difference won't be too noticeable visually, but will surely be noticeable in my wallet.

I'm just trying to establish myself right now; try and get the things that I want done, get any tools that I may need, etc. I think that my first course of action will be to head over to Audio Heaven for Window tinting (thinking 20% rear, 35% front). Next, need to wait for Home Hardware to call back about Plasti Dip (Would like to black out emblems), and finally, may consider another users opinion and perhaps get winter tires first, before I spend money on good looking summer tires.

Any other opinions as to what I should do are also greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

[LimeWan]

this is the jack, and last time i saw, it went on sale for $150

Woah! So the best course of action would probably be to wait. Even if I let this $89.99 deal slip, a $40 loss if I do decide to get it is worth the peace of mind knowing that I made the right decision.

[Lactose]

Get a low profile from the start, you never know when you might lower. My jack (Silver 3ton CT) is much to large to get under the front with prokits. With 2x4s I can JUST BARELY get it in, and my drive way has a bit of a slant. (if that makes a difference). This was before I even installed the lip, now there's no way.

The back is fine.


I did have ideas about lowering the vehicle, but after all this messy insurance stuff, hassle to go over speed bumps, worrying about rubbing, etc, maybe I'll hold off on that.

Ideally, I just want to have a good looking set of black wheels, so even deciding between 17" and 18" shouldn't be a big deal. These will be going on a black car anyway, so perhaps the 1" difference won't be too noticeable visually, but will surely be noticeable in my wallet.


Not considering finances here at all but:

Prokits will not cause you any troubles. You'd have to go some crazy ass fitments to even get close to rubbing on prokits (even gen1 on gen2 which is slightly more). Prokits you wont rub. Speed bumps are not even close to an issue, even with a lip. (These are the larger ones, I dont encounter the stupid ones anymore in Newmarket). You just have to be careful around the parking things and curbs. (I bearly clear curbs on my door).

Insurance is the only thing, if you tell them that is. The drop on prokits isnt that much. my friends really dont consider my car lowered unless I'm beside a stock 3 which has that massive gap. The spring colours are also pretty close to black so someone would have to actually get close to inspect. Although I don't advise not disclosing it to insurance, it CAN cause you issues. It's a risk. Don't hold me liable :P.

To each their own, just thought I would let you know what the ride is like. I'm on Gen 1 prokits on the 2011 Hatch. Front lip (MZ) and 18s (Rx8s dunno offset stuff). No where nearrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr rubbing or having problems on speed bumps. my dad rubs the lip backing out of the drive way because he wont cut so both wheels drop at the same time, but its really easy to avoid.

[LimeWan]

Get a low profile from the start, you never know when you might lower. My jack (Silver 3ton CT) is much to large to get under the front with prokits. With 2x4s I can JUST BARELY get it in, and my drive way has a bit of a slant. (if that makes a difference). This was before I even installed the lip, now there's no way.

The back is fine.



Not considering finances here at all but:

Prokits will not cause you any troubles. You'd have to go some crazy ass fitments to even get close to rubbing on prokits (even gen1 on gen2 which is slightly more). Prokits you wont rub. Speed bumps are not even close to an issue, even with a lip. (These are the larger ones, I dont encounter the stupid ones anymore in Newmarket). You just have to be careful around the parking things and curbs. (I bearly clear curbs on my door).

Insurance is the only thing, if you tell them that is. The drop on prokits isnt that much. my friends really dont consider my car lowered unless I'm beside a stock 3 which has that massive gap. The spring colours are also pretty close to black so someone would have to actually get close to inspect. Although I don't advise not disclosing it to insurance, it CAN cause you issues. It's a risk. Don't hold me liable :P.

To each their own, just thought I would let you know what the ride is like. I'm on Gen 1 prokits on the 2011 Hatch. Front lip (MZ) and 18s (Rx8s dunno offset stuff). No where nearrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr rubbing or having problems on speed bumps. my dad rubs the lip backing out of the drive way because he wont cut so both wheels drop at the same time, but its really easy to avoid.

Will still consider lowering, but perhaps not yet. Also forgot about winter driving. Like you said, you can't back straight out of your driveway, and it does cost slight inconveniences. It's just a matter of getting used to though. Depends on how much I value the appearance.

For the wheels, I've been reading the 'Will this Fit' and 'Member's Rides' threads, and if I go with average 18" wheels, I should have to worry to much about them fitting, correct? (Consider stock height Gen 2 for now) Some people say how their wheels don't clear the suspension, so I want to finally figure out this issue.

After using an offset calculator, how do I determine a 'safe' inner clearance. Let's say the wheels have 10mm less inner clearance (+10mm towards inner side), is this a significant number that could affect the wheel not hitting anything?