Car in limp mode!!

[M3-ZOOM]

hi guys,

long story short, i had a an installer come and install an alarm and remote start
it started to throw codes and now my car is stuck in limp mode
codes are p0113, p2122 and p2229
the only thing that might have set this off is my short ram needed to be removed and put back on
i tried pulling the negative and also the esu fuse to reset it

anyone have any ideas?

thanks

[leecheefoto]

You might have damaged or pulled the maf wire. Google the codes and post them here (currently busy so just on tapatalk atm)

[M3-ZOOM]

p0113 - http://www.obd-codes.com/p0113
Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input

p2122 - http://www.micro-tronik.com/faultcodes/obdiifaultcode_p2122.html
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor No.1Circuit Low

p2229 - http://engine-codes.com/p2229_mazda.html
BARO Sensor Circuit High Input

[Genpu_Mz3]

he might of tapped into the wrong injector wire for your remote start, or just programmed the bypass module wrong < this is more likely

[M3-ZOOM]

he might of tapped into the wrong injector wire for your remote start, or just programmed the bypass module wrong < this is more likely

thing is everything with the remote and alarm works
now its just throwing out those codes and my car barely starts :bang:bang

[S.F.W.]

thing is everything with the remote and alarm works
now its just throwing out those codes and my car barely starts :bang:bang
Have you reached out to the installer ? Did they provide any feedback ?

[M3-ZOOM]

Have you reached out to the installer ? Did they provide any feedback ?

yes he is coming back to try and fix it
the problem was i think while taking out the intake he started the car without reinstalling the intake
but i assume that an ecu fuse pull and battery disconnect would have solved that
i just want others opinions so i could try to solve this faster

[M3-ZOOM]

update of the situation
uninstalled the alarm system and still no go
tested all the fuses under the hood and also in the passenger junction box and all those had a connection, no fuses were blown
all in all, im completely dumbfounded what went wrong..

[S.F.W.]

update of the situation
uninstalled the alarm system and still no go
tested all the fuses under the hood and also in the passenger junction box and all those had a connection, no fuses were blown
all in all, im completely dumbfounded what went wrong..

Did you check if the MAF wire was stretched or broken ?

[M3-ZOOM]

Did you check if the MAF wire was stretched or broken ?

yep everything looks fine
this is quite a puzzler

[M3-ZOOM]

okay so ive tried everything and nothing seems to work
i will be taking it to a dealership soon to get it fixed
which dealerships do you guys recommend?
im assuming MoT will probably be the best bet?

[S.F.W.]

Take the car to a mechanic instead of a dealer. Cost will be lower and more experience trouble booting cars with electrical mods.
See jimmy at street performance or advance power house.

[M3-ZOOM]

already took the car to jimmys, first thing i pretty much did
i might need dealer to reprogram or reflash in order for it to get going

[Kiyomi]

still not fixed>?

as Ami said, APH might have better luck with electrical.

[M3-ZOOM]

Nope.. Would aph have the tools to reflash ecu to mazda settings if needed?
So far I swapped out the pedal and the pedal works now.. The cars just in limp now not locking my rpm to 3000.
There's a CEL and battery and AT light is on as well

[M3-ZOOM]

so after i took it to MoT, they off the bat already charged me a diagnostics fee, which i was fine with if they could figure out the problem
they end up calling me the next day saying that my battery is taking up more voltage then it should and telling me its basically dead and they would charge me 600 to do a swap and that might not even fix the problem
its OBVIOUS that my battery is pulling more voltage as i have a deck sub and amp in the car, and ALSO the battery light is on in the dash, so im pretty pissed off that they told me something i already knew for 120...
they also told me they might need to demod everything i did to the car, which is competley ridiculous
i hate dealerships :bang. NEVER going back there again

[sudz]

Voltage is different from current. A high load on your battery due to audio/lights etc would add more amps (current) but shouldn't effect voltage much.

Your charging voltage should top out around 13.X volts (13.6?) any higher and somethings wrong with either your voltage regulator or possibly your PCM/ECU/whatever its called in a mazda3. Anyone whos had a bum alternator can tell you that cars do some weird stuff when the voltage is wrong!

[RedRaptor]

OP,

Earlier you said that the PJB could be damaged due to the alarm installation and you would ask a dealership to install a new PJB and do a reflash? Did you mention this to MoT?

[M3-ZOOM]

I have checked that my battery is good. I think it was 12v before starting the car. After I turn it on it goes to about 14v.

As for the pjb Jimmy told me that might be faulty when I took it to him. But I had checked my fuses later in the pjb and under the hood and everything had connection. Because everything was connected I didn't bother mentioning the pjb

[n00bMeiSter]

start with small simple things first; ask a friend if you can swap out batteries with him and see if the battery really is the issue.
if the battery isn't the issue, there could be an alternator problem, or a wiring issue somewhere in the car. I think this guy royally ****ed your wiring when he did his shitty job splicing in. He may have even ****ed up one of your ignition coils / spark plug boots. Have jimmy or APH look at those.

[M3-ZOOM]

this nightmare is almost over from what i can tell
quick question thou if the ecu number from wreckers matched exactly the same to the one in my car, would i still need to reflash it at dealer?
or is it a direct plug and play?

[Johns 08 3 GT]

this nightmare is almost over from what i can tell
quick question thou if the ecu number from wreckers matched exactly the same to the one in my car, would i still need to reflash it at dealer?
or is it a direct plug and play?

IIRC it will still need to be flashed at the dealer.

[M3-ZOOM]

car is finally fixed!
problem was a fried ecu
replace and reflash and car is running fine
thanks to everyone who chimed in!

[sudz]

Cost of repair?

[loki]

Curious to know how your ecu got fried, if you even know?

[sudz]

I helped my fiance's brother trouble shoot a similar issue on his Ford Escape - his car would chug. Battery light, Over Voltage.
Cause: Injector went bad - ECU actually powers them - Fries ECU, results in Alternator pumping out 18 volts. Horrible design! Ford Increased warranty on ECU for that reason - Failure rate was 50% over 8 years.