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View Full Version : How to: Methanol Install (SP meth kit)



pwdunmore
07-24-2013, 02:58 PM
So since I had such a fun time doing my meth kit I thought I would contribute some of my "fun" time to the forum.

My kit:
Snow Performance Stage 2 MAF kit

Additional items needed for install:
Aluminium strips
Nuts/bolts (10mm bolts let you mount tank on pre-threaded holes on frame)
2 x add-a-fuse mini's
2 x 15a fuse
2 x 20a fuse
16 gauge wire (red, white, black)
Crimps to connect wires
Other electrical connectors (to connect ground wires to frame)
Extra zip ties

Remote Filling spout (flambeau fluids)
90* fitting (flambeau fluids)

D05 + D07 Nozzles (allows you to mount nozzles using washer method)
Thin washer
Devil's own check valve

Tools needed:
8mm socket
10mm socket
Flat head screw driver
Philps head screw driver
Power drill
Vice
hack saw
5/16 hole punch

Step 1 Crack a beer cuz this is gonna be a long day... lol

Step 2 REMOVE BUMPER
3 fast ties under each wheel well (philps)
1 x 8mm bolt under the wheel too

2 x 10mm bolts under the front

? x 8mm bolts all long the front edge of the car

NO YOU DO NOT HAVE TO TAKE OFF YOUR UNDER PAN!

Pop open the hood, remove all fast ties that hold the bumper think there are 6-8 of them
2 philips head bolts need to be removed, they are on top too.

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o580/pwdunmore/IMG_05291_zps4b6f3662.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/pwdunmore/media/IMG_05291_zps4b6f3662.jpg.html)

Once that is off unhook the fog/head light connections on the passenger side. This allows the bumper to come all the way off.

Step 3 MAKE A BRACKET (pump should be lower than the tank to allow meth to gravity feed from tank)

I used aluminum strips and nuts and bolts found at home depot so that stuff is easy to get a hold of.

I but a bunch of small pieces to make a bracket and bolted it all together. I then fastened it to the car using the horn mounting bracket plus another pre-threaded hole to mount the tank.

Mounting the pump I had to I make a piece go from the front and bent 90* to help stop the pump from bouncing around. Do yourself a favour and take off the rubber grommets on the pump bracket, they will deteriorate over time so just use some nice washers.

Install the float sensor in the tank and feed the wires up the holes, I used the grounding bolts under the bumper for the lights to ground the float sensor then ran the power wire up and into the cabin.

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o580/pwdunmore/IMG_0523_zpse30ef474.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/pwdunmore/media/IMG_0523_zpse30ef474.jpg.html)

I ordered a remote filler spout from flambeau fluids http://www.flambeaufluids.com/components/remote_filler_spouts_matrix.html

Drilled a hole in the top of my tank cap and put a 90* 5/8 fitting and ran tube from the remote spout in my engine bay to the top of the tank.
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o580/pwdunmore/IMG_05281_zpsc27a77eb.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/pwdunmore/media/IMG_05281_zpsc27a77eb.jpg.html)

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o580/pwdunmore/IMG_05301_zps4ff57a98.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/pwdunmore/media/IMG_05301_zps4ff57a98.jpg.html)

Step 4 THREADING THE WIRES
I used the hood release cable find a grommet through the firewall. Thread 3 wires through the tiny ass grommet and then wiggle and pull the grommet back to seal the hole. Took my a while to pull the grommet back through but it's possible.

2 wires will run signal and ground to the LED status light, the other wire will run power to the float sensor LED.

The grommet you want to use has the grey circle/stopper on it. (center of picture)
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o580/pwdunmore/IMG_05391_zps13e39607.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/pwdunmore/media/IMG_05391_zps13e39607.jpg.html)

Step 5 TAPPING THE BOOST TUBE AND PRIMING PUMP (washer method)

Remove throttle body/cold pipe boost tube and punch a hole using the 5/16ths hole punch
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o580/pwdunmore/IMG_05371_zps17178a7d.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/pwdunmore/media/IMG_05371_zps17178a7d.jpg.html)

Using the washer and nozzle thread it through the 5/16ths hole and screw on the nozzle holder tight to seal and leaks.

Prime the pump before you connect the hoses up. Priming is done just by taking the pump wires and touching them to the battery a couple of times until fluid comes out the hose.

Attach tubing and check valve as close as possible to nozzle holder.

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o580/pwdunmore/IMG_05351_zpsa0ddab4f.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/pwdunmore/media/IMG_05351_zpsa0ddab4f.jpg.html)

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o580/pwdunmore/IMG_05341_zps427a8219.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/pwdunmore/media/IMG_05341_zps427a8219.jpg.html)

Step 6 CONNECTING WIRES FOR PUMP/CONTROLLER/MAF/LED's
The kit only comes with a couple of crimps so it is smart to go buy some more 16 gauge crimps and a better wire tap (x2) for the MAF signal and pump LED status light.

Tap the middle MAF wire with the wire tap and connect the yellow signal wire to it. The wire is very thin on the MAF so be careful but at the same time the wire tap may need to be pressed and wiggled to make it through the insulation. First time I did mine it didn't go through the insulation so i had to get my friend to hold the wire as i pressed the wire tap into it.

Connect the pump the signal wire from the controller. Tap wire and take one of the wire going to the cabin to it (lights up the LED when pump is on).

Run power to the Controller, use the add-a-fuse, added it to the DSC which is a 20a circuit.

Ground wire from the controller goes on the top of the strut using one of the connectors.

I ran out of wire protector at one point so bought more so I could hide all the wiring under it.

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o580/pwdunmore/IMG_05321_zps29ef0e1f.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/pwdunmore/media/IMG_05321_zps29ef0e1f.jpg.html)

Wire up the LED's in the cabin, I used the cigar fuse to power the float sensor LED. 15a add-a-fuse was used on the driver's side fuse box.

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o580/pwdunmore/IMG_05411_zps2f1a736b.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/pwdunmore/media/IMG_05411_zps2f1a736b.jpg.html)

Step 7 TEST THE SYSTEM AND HIDE THE WIRES
Set the MAF voltage to something above idle (for testing only) and unhook the hose going to the boost tube. Get someone to hold the hose as another person revs the engine to increase g/s to see if the pump sends power/signal and pumps meth.

I set mine to 2.5V but I have the JBR 3'' so it might be different for your setup.

If meth squirts out of the hose when you rev the engine everything is hooked up right!

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o580/pwdunmore/IMG_05311_zps031d4958.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/pwdunmore/media/IMG_05311_zps031d4958.jpg.html)

Step 8 MOUNT THE CONTROLLER and have a beer!

I used zipties to temporarily hold it, I then screwed it into the top of the fuse box and sealed the holes, BE CAREFUL NOT TO SCREW INTO ANY FUSES or CIRCUITS

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o580/pwdunmore/IMG_05421_zpscd7297fe.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/pwdunmore/media/IMG_05421_zpscd7297fe.jpg.html)

If I missed anything or need stuff added let me know

r4mi5awi
07-24-2013, 03:02 PM
Nice write up, just read a bit while at work but I can definitely smell a sticky! :)

mickey_g
07-24-2013, 03:24 PM
Great write up man

mickey_g
07-24-2013, 03:27 PM
+1 for sticky

breakfasteatre
07-25-2013, 01:38 AM
boyracer

fywdyl
07-25-2013, 11:01 AM
Nice writeup!

pwdunmore
07-25-2013, 12:00 PM
Thanks :)

Just a FYI, the system is set to come on at ~3.1v and go full at ~3.5V. (this is so I am in boost when it sprays)

This may be different for other Intake sizes so keep that in mind if you are running a stock size intake or a larger than stock intake.