Another Question about HIDs...*sigh*

[gq_movement]

Alright,

I've been combing over and trying to figure out the problem with my HIDs...and it's come to the relay harness.

I have a 2005 m3 hatchback.

So this cut includes the 2 bulbs (H7, 8000k), 2 ballast and these 2 "warning canceller capacitors"

SO with this kit, essentially you pop in the light, then the plugs into the ballast, and connect the 2 end pieces from the light into the the plug location where the stock bulb goes. takes about 5min to do one side.

So I've connected this again and for about 10 minutes drove with no problem. I finally thought, **** yeah!! so as I pull into my drive way...the driver side cuts out. i move closer to the garage door and the passenger cuts out.

I figure i need to put this this "warning canceller capacitors" in, but i figure yet again it will time out.

if this occurs, i've seen others post that they had run a relay. would i have to run something like this:

http://www.gjlenterprise.com/HID-Wiring-harness.jpg

I just want my lights. As to what setup is required is now beyond me and everything seems the same.

Am I missing something as well?

[silverstarmazda]

Our cars dont need warning cancelled capacitors... Not that i know of anyways. What you need is the relay harness which is what you've pictured.

[Default User]

You need a capacitor

[gq_movement]

silverstarmazda same as the capacitor as defaultuser stated?

[gq_movement]

You need a capacitor

just as your previous setup then?

just want to get this ish sorted before winter hits

[gq_movement]

this is the capacitor i currently have

http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n487/getsonrc/2006%20Mazda%203%20GT%20Hatchback/890b3b85-76b9-4eb2-8ba7-ff4aa06b5bea.jpg

well similar.

so essentially i'm connecting everything + the capacitor?

this is the first post from
http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?72592-HIDs-Angel-Eyes-LED-strip-Disable-DRL-Indy-Fog-Mod

[JonsMazda]

Here is what get hooked up to what:

1. Connect to Left Ballast input

2. Connect to Right Ballast input
NOTE: 1 & 2 may be reversed depending on where your battery is and how long the connector cable legs are.

3. Connect to the Positive + side of your battery.

4. Connect to the Negative - side of your battery or to any convenient chassis grounding point. There is no difference between connecting the ground line to the battery or the chassis. Electrically, they are exactly the same.

5. Connect to your car's stock headlight power cable.
Note: This connection can be to either the right or left headlight power connector. The other headlight connector is no longer used and should be covered in electrical tape or other material to protect the connector ends from the environment.

How it works:
The stock headlight power connector (5) powers the relay (6) which provides power directly from the battery (3 & 4) through a fuse (7) to the HID ballasts (1 & 2).

Got it?

Keep in mind that a Relay Harness is only necessary if your HID retrofit kit is a 50 Watt or higher kit.

[gq_movement]

Here is what get hooked up to what:

1. Connect to Left Ballast input

2. Connect to Right Ballast input
NOTE: 1 & 2 may be reversed depending on where your battery is and how long the connector cable legs are.

3. Connect to the Positive + side of your battery.

4. Connect to the Negative - side of your battery or to any convenient chassis grounding point. There is no difference between connecting the ground line to the battery or the chassis. Electrically, they are exactly the same.

5. Connect to your car's stock headlight power cable.
Note: This connection can be to either the right or left headlight power connector. The other headlight connector is no longer used and should be covered in electrical tape or other material to protect the connector ends from the environment.

How it works:
The stock headlight power connector (5) powers the relay (6) which provides power directly from the battery (3 & 4) through a fuse (7) to the HID ballasts (1 & 2).

Got it?

Keep in mind that a Relay Harness is only necessary if your HID retrofit kit is a 50 Watt or higher kit.

****ing thank you! Will get to this hopefully by sat.

But with regards to the relay , is that only required if you kit is 50w+ , or required because its a 2005?

[silverstarmazda]

because its an 05

im running 55w and there nothing different in my setup from the 35w

[gq_movement]

because its an 05

im running 55w and there nothing different in my setup from the 35w

****. I came to that conclusion because it's older.

*drum roll* so regardless of watts, the 2005 models will require the relay.

finally...what spots would you guys suggesting the relay and wiring kit? seen a few on amazon, but any good locals? anything in the west end (brampton/suga)
cheers

[p-o-g-i]

Contact Kelvin (sp3GT) from Imports Tuning. TM3 sponsor: http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/forumdisplay.php?249-Imports-Tuning

[gq_movement]

Will do, thanks man!

[gq_movement]

WHOMP WHOMP WHOMP.

SO i got a relay harness, but the plug which goes into the ballast, the red was in the ballast and the black has a round end piece which would be used to connect to the negative battery terminal or to be ground else where.

I ended up getting the driver side to work...but then the passenger didnt work. And then it did...and then non of them worked.

I'm on the brink of loosing it all.

[Default User]

Double check you connections

In the pic you provided in the original post:

#1 and #2 are plugged into the HID ballasts

#3 goes onto the positive battery terminal

#4 is attached to the chassis (*make sure the connection is clean - no grease or grime)

#5 is plugged into the drivers side headlight socket (it's the signal wire)



Now because you have an 05 - you also need a capacitor. You will need to tap into the signal wire (#5) and make sure it's secured. The capacitor will "even out" the electrical current that your DRL uses. If you don't use a capacitor - the HIDs will not have a steady electrical current to power the lights, as HIDs require a steady current flow.


Leaving your headlights in the "ON" position (not auto) would give the electrical power necessary for your HIDs to work, because the currency is increased. But that means having to turn on your headlights EVERYTIME you start the car (even during sunny days)

(Kind of a bad example) think of your stereo system. When bass hits - the lights dim because of the short burst of extra energy/power. You need something to help counter the pressure on the system.

[sp3GT]

I've responded your PM, what ^default user said is 100% correct.

Or you can completely disable the DRL via tapping the turn signals method. That way, you'll only need the relay and nothing more.

[gq_movement]

Double check you connections

In the pic you provided in the original post:

#1 and #2 are plugged into the HID ballasts

#3 goes onto the positive battery terminal

#4 is attached to the chassis (*make sure the connection is clean - no grease or grime)

#5 is plugged into the drivers side headlight socket (it's the signal wire)



Now because you have an 05 - you also need a capacitor. You will need to tap into the signal wire (#5) and make sure it's secured. The capacitor will "even out" the electrical current that your DRL uses. If you don't use a capacitor - the HIDs will not have a steady electrical current to power the lights, as HIDs require a steady current flow.


Leaving your headlights in the "ON" position (not auto) would give the electrical power necessary for your HIDs to work, because the currency is increased. But that means having to turn on your headlights EVERYTIME you start the car (even during sunny days)

(Kind of a bad example) think of your stereo system. When bass hits - the lights dim because of the short burst of extra energy/power. You need something to help counter the pressure on the system.

Will try it again.

but the relay i got, #1 & 2, the black hangs out. so i just ground both? and about cleaning it, no grease or anything, i think that could have caused an issue.

#5, i cut the top off, and re-wire it to the little prongs which connect to the socket.
And like you said, wrap the capacitor around it.

[gq_movement]

I've responded your PM, what ^default user said is 100% correct.

Or you can completely disable the DRL via tapping the turn signals method. That way, you'll only need the relay and nothing more.

got it, thanks man!

[Default User]

Will try it again.

but the relay i got, #1 & 2, the black hangs out. so i just ground both? and about cleaning it, no grease or anything, i think that could have caused an issue.

#5, i cut the top off, and re-wire it to the little prongs which connect to the socket.
And like you said, wrap the capacitor around it.

Yes - there should be a grounding wire for both PS and DS lights

You dont have to cut off the connector (#5) you should be able to tap into the wires on the relay harness (right above the connector) and wrap the capacitor terminals and secure them with electrical tape. Make sure you identify the negative terminal on the capacitor

[gq_movement]

http://s22.postimg.org/knmnxjulp/relay.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/knmnxjulp/)

ok so here is my relay i have.

A & B (or 1 & 2) go into the ballast. then for the drivers side i will connect to the screw on the chassis to act as ground, and same on the passenger side.

C - will go into the positive terminal.

D - so i had cut this, and attached the 2 prongs which connect into the headligth socket. i will wrap the capacitor around it, before i put it into the socket.

[gq_movement]

*if you click the picture, a larger one will show

[Default User]

Make sure the connection prongs on "D" are grabbing in the headlight socket.

Other than that - it should be good.

Just to make sure that the grounding wires are touching metal. There's a lot if plastic under that hood

[gq_movement]

Will do a quick check and clean all the connections.

Maybe I might need a new capacitor too? but let's hope.

Thanks again for all the input guys. Proper noob stuff...but thanks

[Default User]

you need a 4300u or higher capacitor

[gq_movement]

Dope. i'm actually hoping now, i put the wrong side of the capacitor into the socket -_-
hopefully that should be the cause

[gq_movement]

http://i.imgur.com/Of6sbx3.jpg

here is the setup. sorry for the big picture. yet....no lights show on either driver or passenger side.

http://i.imgur.com/y9ZEnxt.jpg

[gq_movement]

would it be worth pulling the fuse out ( a possible restart) and then see if it'll work.

when i plugged just the ballast/bulb the passenger side works.

[Default User]

Honesty - at this point - take a drive to see a sponsor or someone that knows the inside and outs of this. It's really hard to diagnose over 'da Innanet

[gq_movement]

aha yeah man. i guess. if nothing, hello halos.....*sigh*

[JonsMazda]

Does it make a zapping sound when you turn on your hids? Could be the ballast is bad.

[gq_movement]

Zap, naw not really.

I found one of the fuses was blown, replaced and seem to be fine. I do think one of the ballast is out.

But it's a bit weird, since last Thursday I put the kit back in. The passenger wont usuall stay on and times out about 10 minutes (either ballast or capacitor is out).

But the driver side worked fine, from Yonge & Finch to 410 & Bovaird i had light. Throughout the last few days it's been ok (driver side). Passenger usually times out.

Also, i leave my lights on off, when i get out. When i turn on the car, the lights will appear and stay. But sometimes i'll turn on and nothing will show...
Got the new kit today (was not using the relay since thursday). so let's see.

[jeffjones]

Instead of starting a new thread, I am just going to add to this one.

Instead of re-wiring and hack jobbing a capacitor in, Has anyone tried the anti-flicker modules (I believe it is just a capacitor)?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/161073172370?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_3909wt_1399
Does it work, or do I have to do the hack job in order to get them to work.

I have read too many threads with conflicting answers and just looking for a definite one.