Power loss in all gears

[ppat5]

2006 Mazda 3, 5 spd, GT sport. Has 76,000km on it. Shifts great, runs really smooth. However, seems to have lost power or torque, and was quite a sudden change.

Feels like the clutch is worn and slipping causing power loss, but the clutch was replaced not long ago and no issues with that. It is not the clutch. The problem started before the clutch replacement, and continues after.

Plugs are new, all service performed sooner than schedule for life of car. Car driven pretty lightly.

Dealer checked for codes, none came up.

It will rev smooth, but the feeling of no power (no torque) is in all the gears. I have to rev it much higher than normal to get any acceleration. I would estimate I have lost 25 - 30% of my power.

There is no coughing or stuttering, engine runs way smooth.

The gears on the M3 by design require that you shift pretty quick from 1st into 2nd. Not much range in first gear when things are working normal. With the current problem, it is possible to run the car at a higher mph in all the gears than is normal. The normal feeling you get when the revs are too high, telling you it is time to change gears, no longer happens.

If I give it hard gas and pop the clutch, I can't even spin the front tires now on a wet road from a full stop position.

This fellow at this link had a problem that sounds a little similar, but he was getting codes come up. I assume that when the dealer checks for codes, they always check for all possible codes?

Any help is much appreciated.

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?72797-acceleration-hesitation-power-loss

[JonsMazda]

Try cleaning the TB with TB spray.

[Cab0oze]

Try cleaning the TB with TB spray.TB should have zero effect on this unless it is throwing codes which it is not.
Very weird that there are no other symptoms. I can't think of anything that would cause that offhand with the exception of dragging front brakes but if it was that bad you would be smelling burning pads after getting out of the car. Couldn't hurt to ck though... Jack up the front and try spinning both brakes.

-edit - more likely explanation
Maybe a partially blocked filter wouldn't pop a CEL if the ECU could compensate for it. Check your filter very carefully. I remember that when I removed my intake resonator I lost a lot of low end torque. If you have the stock airbox check to make sure that there is a clear airflow path from the inlet (bottom of resonator) up to the filter as well. If you have an aftermarket intake I might suspect that it got wet/damp and froze.

[r4BBiT]

I don't know if that can cause this symptoms, but maybe clogged catalytic converter?

[stock3]

I would check the intake as well. Rodents can and do make nests in there during cold months. Or the filter is severely clogged.
Brakes, as already suggested, would be next on my list to check.

If all of that checks out correct then you need to look at three things that make the engine go: Air, fuel and spark. You will need to check for proper air/fuel mixture, timing and spark as well as fuel pressure and injectors. These things should throw a code when working improperly, but sometimes they will not.

I love to hear stories of technicians declaring that there is nothing wrong with the car because there are no codes, when it clearly does not run right. Just shows you how much they really know. These types of problems quickly weed out true mechanics from parts changers.

[ppat5]

Thanks, Some good ideas. I am going to clean the throttle body first. Already spray cleaned the MAF with no improvement.

I did have the fuel system cleaned by the dealer about a year ago, and huge performance boost at the time. Car was working fine then, but even better after the cleaning.

That improvement of course has since disappeared, and no power now. Like driving Grannies car.

They did replace battery recently, and I read somewhere there is some procedure you must do after that to ensure the ECU is properly reset? That might be related?

Worried that it might be a clogged catalytic. Car is driven only 8km to and from work each day, so in 10 minutes drive barely gets warmed up. Not sure if that would cause clogging. Is there a definitive test/diagnosis that can be made to check catalytic?

Yes, fuel, timing and spark are culprits too. Plugs changed recently, air filter as well. Lack of codes does not guarantee a good running engine.

This is a confusing one. I have had vehicles run poorly, rough idle, low power, but never such a power loss, but otherwise running so smoothly. No hesitation, misfiring, no noise, etc. its like someone let all the air out of the balloon.

[Noisy Crow]

I would check the intake as well. Rodents can and do make nests in there during cold months. Or the filter is severely clogged.
Brakes, as already suggested, would be next on my list to check.

This is easy to check.... remove the filter cover and filter and take the car for a drive. Avoid dusty/salty roads as you don't want your engine inhaling crap.

That said.... does sound a awful like a plugged cat.

[Cab0oze]

That said.... does sound a awful like a plugged cat.Good to know that could cause it... how would you diagnose though? Check how much air is coming out the exhaust? Wouldn't there be a CEL?

[stock3]

Good to know that could cause it... how would you diagnose though? Check how much air is coming out the exhaust? Wouldn't there be a CEL?

The only, non intrusive way is to check the cat. temperature. A clogged cat. will run significantly hotter than a properly operating cat. But I don't know what that temp. might be.
One option would be to measure the temp on a properly working cat. and compare.

[Noisy Crow]

Yup, temperature check: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VZ5K8n5jj0&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Can also check for back pressure... Pull the the O2 sensor and stick in a pressure gauge. http://www.amazon.ca/OTC-7215-Exhaust-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B0002SQWVQ

[Cab0oze]

Good to know, tx

[ppat5]

Ok, this is turning into something else now. Latest syptoms:

First, just had the MAF and throttle valve, with no improvement. At the dealer, no charge to do that.

Today, driving in 3rd gear just over 60km, then punch the gas. The whole underside of the car, from location of drivers seat forward, physically vibrates LOUDLY through the engine compartment and undercarriage. Since I can't let you hear it, it sounds like Schvvvvvoooooommmmm. Best I can do. :-)

The same vibration is apparent in all the gears, but more noticeable in third. I don't believe the issue itself is gear/tranny related, as shifts super smooth in all gears, no slipping, etc.

In reverse, turning slowly backward into my parking spot, something under the car is physically shaking from around the same area. By this I don't mean that sort of choppy engine feeling you get in reverse with the Mazda 3 standard when all is working normally. This is an actual component/parts shake.

So it seems that maybe some mechanical component disconnect is perhaps preventing the full power to transfer to the wheels? Visually all the motor mounts check out, no leaks either.

It could be also that this vibration I am feeling, is a completely separate issue. However, this vibration in the underside of the car is clearly a worsening of the existing condition.

I need to baby the car back to the dealer for the time being, as they are not charging me for diagnosis. I guess next to physically check all nuts, seals, etc.

Any other ideas?

[ppat5]

Ok, this is turning into something else now. Latest syptoms:

First, just had the MAF and throttle valve, with no improvement. At the dealer, no charge to do that.

Today, driving in 3rd gear just over 60km, then punch the gas. The whole underside of the car, from location of drivers seat forward, physically vibrates LOUDLY through the engine compartment and undercarriage. Since I can't let you hear it, it sounds like Schvvvvvoooooommmmm. Best I can do. :-)

The same vibration is apparent in all the gears, but more noticeable in third. I don't believe the issue itself is gear/tranny related, as shifts super smooth in all gears, no slipping, etc.

In reverse, turning slowly backward into my parking spot, something under the car is physically shaking from around the same area. By this I don't mean that sort of choppy engine feeling you get in reverse with the Mazda 3 standard when all is working normally. This is an actual component/parts shake.

So it seems that maybe some mechanical component disconnect is perhaps preventing the full power to transfer to the wheels? Visually all the motor mounts check out, no leaks either.

It could be also that this vibration I am feeling, is a completely separate issue. However, this vibration in the underside of the car is clearly a worsening of the existing condition.

I need to baby the car back to the dealer for the time being, as they are not charging me for diagnosis. I guess next to physically check all nuts, seals, etc.

Any other ideas?

BTW, I forgot to mention that the engine idles perfectly. No shuddering or misfiring at idle. As I accelerate, it could not be smoother. However, all this power loss, and now a LOUD vibration (not shake or shudder). The rate of the vibration increases with the increased RPMS. As soon as I slow down below 3500 RPM, the vibration and accompanying noise (LOUD humming/vibration) stops.

[boo-ninja]

Wonder if your motor mounts are all shot?

[Como]

Did you eliminate the possibility of your brakes?
Had my e brake seize up on one side one day. DRAMATIC loss of power. When I got home just going close to wheel you could feel the heat

[Cab0oze]

Did you eliminate the possibility of your brakes?
Had my e brake seize up on one side one day. DRAMATIC loss of power. When I got home just going close to wheel you could feel the heat
Yeah that's not the issue if you read his later post. That being said, that wouldn't have been the issue anyway with his symptoms because he still should have been able to spin his front tires if his ebrake was stuck because FWD. Good thought though!

[TheMAN]

could be bad coil packs
shaking is a sign of misfire

[ppat5]

car is working normally again. Cleaning MAF and TB helped, but did not fix.

problem first started after battery replacement a couple of months ago.

So I disconnected negative battery terminal, pump brakes to drain out battery, wait 10 minutes. then reconnect and let idle for 20 minutes. So ECU reset. Noticed improvement right away. Normal acceleration is back.

The vibration went away too. That I think was the new shocks and motor mount just needed time to settle.

Thanks for everyones help and ideas. Good learning experience.