Rpms Jump, Engine Cuts when Driving, Jerks, MAF sensor?

[Templar Knight]

Hello Everyone, judging from what i've read in other posts, i may have a possible MAF Sensor problem, just seeing if anyone can confirm. My Rpms have been fluctuating (between 1000-2500 up/down) when i accelerate, when driving normal and when stopped. I have had the engine cut out when stopped only. The rpms would fall to the first tick and then shut off. Car has been jerking while driving too ( all this happens only in drive, not neutral or park). CEL has come on, error codes reading Po102 and Po103 which are MAF input low and high. I drive a 2005 Mazda 3 Sedan 2.0L. Injen CAI Installed with a "Sock" on it. Ive just retightened the nuts/bolts on it, werent really loose. Last thing done to car was a rust proof back in november?

All suggestions welcomed, thanks

-Arthur

[Thrizzl3]

check the MAF wiring. looks for broken/exposed wires which might be shorting it out.

[Templar Knight]

I'll be sure to take a look when I get home tomorrow Thanks!

[Templar Knight]

Well cleaning the sensor has taken care of all the problems, but now I've ran into another. It seems I've lost HP/torque. When I floored it in 4th and droped to second (just to test if the car was 100%), I no longer get the same feeling of getting pushed back. Instead it goes to 4000rpms and just kinda sits there and veryyy slowly increases. Suggestion/thoughts anyone?

[sarujo]

Did you reset the ECU after the cleaning? The throttle body should be clean as well.

[Templar Knight]

No i haven't yet but it cross my mind yesterday. I'll give it a shot. Also Ive noticed I'm burning fuel like crazy and dirty. The tip of my exhaust is BLACK. So much carbon caked on lol

[sarujo]

Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and tap the brake pedal a couple of times then go and spend some time cleaning the throttle body so it is sparking cleaning. Re-assemble the TB and then re-connect the battery. ECU should now be reset from the battery being disconnected while working. If your driver's side power window switch needs re-calibrating that's a good sign the battery was disconnected long enough.

I would then let the car idle a good 10 to 15 mins so engine gets warm and ECU can re-adjust idle values. The ECU will then need some time to re-learn your driving habits.