RMM Questions

[eliwwjd]

Hi guys

I'm totally new on this forum but have had 3 mazda cars. At the moment I own a mazdaspeed 3 2013 model. Bought it a year ago.
The reason why I'm posting is because I'm getting ready to purchase Autotech HPFP internals, ETS TMIC and a RMM upgrade. Here is the issue
I have to decide between cp-e stage 2 rmm or corksport racing rmm. One is in rubber the other is urethane. To be honest, I'm really undecided on
what to go for. I was reading through the forum but couldn't find no comparisons between both. I want stiffness and performance but with least NVH.
I understand that with rmm upgrades comes NVH but I want to keep as less NVH as possible. I see also that cp-e mounted the rmm vertically, to have only
direction movement to preserve durability of mount. Corksport has the feature youcan swap bushings from 70 to 80 duro.
My normal day of work is visiting customers so which of both do you guys think will work best? Hopefully there are some members here that can tell there experiences of both mounts. Thanks in advance for your opinions.

[Lmmorden]

Welcome to the forum!
I don't have a speed so can't comment on your dilemma

[eliwwjd]

Thanks guy. No problem I understand. It is very hard to choose when you have such great companies at hand

[SomeGuy]

cp-e stage 2 ... for sure.

That said, given your list where is the accessport? What mods do you already have? Intake done yet?

First mods should be AccessPort, Fuel Pump, Intake.

[eliwwjd]

cp-e stage 2 ... for sure.

That said, given your list where is the accessport? What mods do you already have? Intake done yet?

First mods should be AccessPort, Fuel Pump, Intake.

Had intake but had to take it off because I noticed that it lost power in lower band so decided to put my drop in K&N filter from my old mazda 3 sp5.
At the moment the only thing that Ive done besides intake was resonator delete to get some throaty sound. To be honest at the moment I don't plan on changing stock map because here in P.R. dealership is strict about warranty. My car barely has a year. So what I did to monitor car trims, I bought torque app with the obdlink LX Bluetooth adapter with mazdaspeed 2010-2012 plug-in from andoid market, to monitor fuel rail before and after internals are installed and bats before and after ets top mount intercooler installation. This is the reason why accessport is not on my list.
But I really want to upgrade my rmm but wasn't sure which to go for. I'm kind of curious, what is stiffer urethane or cp-e rmm rubber?

So you think cp-e stage 2 is best?

[eliwwjd]

Ups!!!!! forgot also a GFB T9002 Hybrid BOV.

[boyracer]

Welcome. May I suggest a JBR (James Barone Racing) Molly RMM as a third option, and in my opinion a better mount then what you've listed. JBR's customer service is far superior to cp-e. You won't regret it.

[eliwwjd]

Welcome. May I suggest a JBR (James Barone Racing) Molly RMM as a third option, and in my opinion a better mount then what you've listed. JBR's customer service is far superior to cp-e. You won't regret it.


Thanks guy! the only reason why I didn't consider JBr is because I saw a video a 70 duro which had quite vibes and I decided to hold back. I was reading a few minutes before reading your post that urethane will withstand more than rubber(cp-e material).
Corksport has caught my attention because there material is urethane like jbr but no NVH. If you read all the reviews everybody comments about how great the mounts are with the benefit of no vibes. don't get me wrong, I love jbr products but was afraid of not liking vibes and end up wasting my money. From your comment and what I was reading urethane is a way better material for bushings than rubber.

[SomeGuy]

JBR's aren't so forgiving.

The cp-e is going to give you the least vibes as it's the softest, especially the stage 2.
The corksport is quite good too, even their 80 or 88 duro one is soft enough to daily drive as the bushing is bigger physically.

[Wisecraker]

I agree with wanting a RMM and not having to suffer too much with engine vibrations. Once you make your decision post what you find

[eliwwjd]

Well after researching and reading, urethane is best for performance over rubber. It wont stretch that easy and it will endure way more than rubber. I think I'll be going with corksport due to the fact that you can change bushings from 70 duro to 80 duro. Second, there are plenty of outstanding reviews of this rmm, which tells me that the product has to be good. Another fact is the nvh experienced by users. Last but not least, corksport customer service is outstanding. Maybe ill call my brother Spencer and ask him about the 80 duro bushings.
When I install, I'll keep you informed. Thanks guys!

[boyracer]

I'm just gonna leave this here

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?62742-The-quot-Unofficial-quot-Will-This-Cause-Vibes-Thread&highlight=

[eliwwjd]

I'm just gonna leave this here

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?62742-The-quot-Unofficial-quot-Will-This-Cause-Vibes-Thread&highlight=

Cmon boyracer be nice. I understand that with upgraded rmm comes vibes but I want to keep them less possible.
I daily drive to customers. There is always a best of both worlds

[austinSedz]

There is also the Ford Focus E-Mount (the torque mount from the electric ford focus). It's about 60 +/- bucks at your local ford dealer, and it's nice and quiet and doesn't vibe, but stiffens up the shifts and fixes wheel hop issues quite nicely. All the focus ST and Volvo guys know about it, since it's a fair enough improvement to satisfy people's performance concerns without sacrificing the comfort.

Put one on my car, and the improvement was quite nice, and I don't have to worry about putting coins in my cupholder.

Part Number is: CM5Z-6068-A
and it looks like this:
http://media.lethalperformance.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/84ee508ef3aa2a40e7cac75be1747f5a/c/m/cm5z6068a.jpg

[greardon]

It sounds like you just want some better shifting/driving. If you are not gonna do a access port and leaving a stock map the internals are not really needed or the TMIC, sure there is some heat issues at summer but running stock I wouldn't worry much about it, but again up to you, but seems you are so worried about warranty I would def not do the internals. Take the money and add in a corksport SRI to go with the RMM give your car a little noise and will add a little extra throaty noise to your stock exhaust. or use the internals monies for set of springs. My point is if you are not going for performance increase then aim for better driving like springs, short throw shift plate, solid shifter bushing..things like that....easy and cheap to do....cheers

[eliwwjd]

It sounds like you just want some better shifting/driving. If you are not gonna do a access port and leaving a stock map the internals are not really needed or the TMIC, sure there is some heat issues at summer but running stock I wouldn't worry much about it, but again up to you, but seems you are so worried about warranty I would def not do the internals. Take the money and add in a corksport SRI to go with the RMM give your car a little noise and will add a little extra throaty noise to your stock exhaust. or use the internals monies for set of springs. My point is if you are not going for performance increase then aim for better driving like springs, short throw shift plate, solid shifter bushing..things like that....easy and cheap to do....cheers

Thanks guys
Last night I put the order for autotech internals, ets tmic and corksport 70 & 80 duro swappable rmm mounts.
When I install, I'll keep you informed.

[Wisecraker]

There is also the Ford Focus E-Mount (the torque mount from the electric ford focus). It's about 60 +/- bucks at your local ford dealer, and it's nice and quiet and doesn't vibe, but stiffens up the shifts and fixes wheel hop issues quite nicely. All the focus ST and Volvo guys know about it, since it's a fair enough improvement to satisfy people's performance concerns without sacrificing the comfort.

Put one on my car, and the improvement was quite nice, and I don't have to worry about putting coins in my cupholder.

Part Number is: CM5Z-6068-A
and it looks like this:
http://media.lethalperformance.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/84ee508ef3aa2a40e7cac75be1747f5a/c/m/cm5z6068a.jpg

Would this work on a 2013 Mazda 3 2.0?

[miako]

I used CP-e 70duro rmm, and it didn't help in terms of wheel hop.. I was pissed so I went JBR 80 duro trilogy, note that it's my DD and it's going to be my baby carrier soon, so far ... loving the vibes. More importantly, zero wheel hop, power gets to the ground. I can get used to minor vibes, but wheel hop when I needed the power, not acceptable.

[greyseason]

Would this work on a 2013 Mazda 3 2.0?

If it fits a normal mz3(which it should if what he says is true) than it will. They all look the same minus stage2 CP-e

[SomeGuy]

Did this guy not read the mod path series? TMIC is a funny thing to start with, it will amount to almost zero gains without an accessport, a tune and an intake (which is the bigger restriction over the OEM TMIC).

[greardon]

I tried also why do the internals if your never gonna move off a stock map and are concerned with warranty

[jwoods_24]

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?75127-Rear-Motor-Mount-Without-the-vibe-)&p=1174026#post1174026

^THIS. Just placed an order myself. Figured I might give it a try. If all goes well, would be great value at $49. I'm be installing shortly and will have feedback. Otherwise, checkout some of the other suggestions.

[Mty Mous]

Well for what its worth, I have the Corksport 70 Duro Racing RMM and hardly felt a difference in regards to NVH, and I'm usually pretty sensitive to this kinda stuff cause it annoys the crap outta me. That being said, it tightened things up a bit, atleast enough for me to be happy.

I don't have a habit of launching hard off the line, so wheel hop isn't much of an issue for me.

[eliwwjd]

Did this guy not read the mod path series? TMIC is a funny thing to start with, it will amount to almost zero gains without an accessport, a tune and an intake (which is the bigger restriction over the OEM TMIC).

You don't need an accessport to see gains with a tmic upgrade. You might want to read in the mazdaspeed forums, there are members who experienced gains and the powergains were obviously there. The stock tmic does have a restriction and that's a fact!
To be honest I have seen test from other forums where an intake vs. Drop in has barely no difference in power numbers. Intake sucks hot air from engine and you loose low end power. Filter needs to be isolated from engine hot air. That's why cobb and corksport developed thermal box to isolate air filter from hot air from engine.That been said I don't think an intake is more restrictive than the oem intercooler.
To be honest ap doesn't necessarily have to be the first mod on list. There is no golden rule on what mod path to take.Not everybody has money to buy one, Second, if you want to monitor your car, you can do it with an obd2 adapter.
The only mod I agree you should start with is hpfp. To monitor you can use an obd2 adapter if you don't want to purchase an ap.

[Jdm_dudebro]

My cpe stg2 is kind of rough.. My friend has a torque solutions rmm which is a bit less firm. It's your personal decision. I am getting used to the cpe stage 2 but sometimes wouldn't mind the comfort of a less stiff mount.

[Thrizzl3]

You don't need an accessport to see gains with a tmic upgrade. You might want to read in the mazdaspeed forums, there are members who experienced gains and the powergains were obviously there. The stock tmic does have a restriction and that's a fact!
To be honest I have seen test from other forums where an intake vs. Drop in has barely no difference in power numbers. Intake sucks hot air from engine and you loose low end power. Filter needs to be isolated from engine hot air. That's why cobb and corksport developed thermal box to isolate air filter from hot air from engine.That been said I don't think an intake is more restrictive than the oem intercooler.
To be honest ap doesn't necessarily have to be the first mod on list. There is no golden rule on what mod path to take.Not everybody has money to buy one, Second, if you want to monitor your car, you can do it with an obd2 adapter.
The only mod I agree you should start with is hpfp. To monitor you can use an obd2 adapter if you don't want to purchase an ap.

What Someguy meant to say was that with the Upgraded TMIC and an AP you would be able to utilize the cooler air flowing into the engine hence making more power...along with the HPFP upgrade.

[SomeGuy]

You don't need an accessport to see gains with a tmic upgrade. You might want to read in the mazdaspeed forums, there are members who experienced gains and the powergains were obviously there. The stock tmic does have a restriction and that's a fact!
To be honest I have seen test from other forums where an intake vs. Drop in has barely no difference in power numbers. Intake sucks hot air from engine and you loose low end power. Filter needs to be isolated from engine hot air. That's why cobb and corksport developed thermal box to isolate air filter from hot air from engine.That been said I don't think an intake is more restrictive than the oem intercooler.
To be honest ap doesn't necessarily have to be the first mod on list. There is no golden rule on what mod path to take.Not everybody has money to buy one, Second, if you want to monitor your car, you can do it with an obd2 adapter.
The only mod I agree you should start with is hpfp. To monitor you can use an obd2 adapter if you don't want to purchase an ap.

The gains will be minimal in comparison, just like the gains of intake vs drop in. The fact is, the only way to take real advantage of any hard part upgrades effectively is to tune for them. The accessport is the proven and supported device for this on this platform and IMO (and most others) is a must have before doing ANY hard parts because it grows with you as you change parts. A TMIC by itself I don't think is a good first choice.

Go read Cobb's guides and staged upgrades. Go read the mod path series. Go read MSF for longer than 5 minutes. Intake, Accessport, HPFP, and a RMM are the first 4 upgrades anyone should do to this car.

[eliwwjd]

The gains will be minimal in comparison, just like the gains of intake vs drop in. The fact is, the only way to take real advantage of any hard part upgrades effectively is to tune for them. The accessport is the proven and supported device for this on this platform and IMO (and most others) is a must have before doing ANY hard parts because it grows with you as you change parts. A TMIC by itself I don't think is a good first choice.

Go read Cobb's guides and staged upgrades. Go read the mod path series. Go read MSF for longer than 5 minutes. Intake, Accessport, HPFP, and a RMM are the first 4 upgrades anyone should do to this car.

I could agree with you that tuning for a specific upgrade is efficiently, deffinately but stating there are minimal gains with tmic is far off. For instance the ets tmic, there are ms3 owners who have install the product right of the box with power differences across the entire powerband. If I tune it, it would definately improve? Yes certainly but there are gains right out of the box.
Companies do alot of R&D on stock cars before releasing products to the market. For instance K & N does not put in production a part that didn not prove gains, and that was told to me by a k&n design engineer. That's why they ask for bone stock cars to do r&d to develop a product that does prove gains by just bolting in. Don't get me wrong here like I said I agree with you that tuning is the best way to get out numbers from a bolt on but I can say there are 0 gains from just bolting on a product.
Once again, don't get me wrong ap is an awesome product with growing capabilities for the platform.
It also comes down to the dealership. I was going to tune to be honest but here dealership is strict about warranty.
Bolt ons are something you can swap back with no problem. You are probably going to tell me, you can load back oem map but in case some don't know, everytime you reflash a map, the ecu records every single flash. At mazda they are able to see and find out that the ecu was reflashed number of times and guess what, if something happens you loose your rights. Proof is left on the ecu.Trust me this was advice by a mazda trained certified mechanic who has vast experience with mazda platform. Me personally I would have to wait.

[SomeGuy]

I'm sure you think you know what you're talking about, so do what you want. The rest of us will make big power.

[mickey_g]

I could agree with you that tuning for a specific upgrade is efficiently, deffinately but stating there are minimal gains with tmic is far off. For instance the ets tmic, there are ms3 owners who have install the product right of the box with power differences across the entire powerband. If I tune it, it would definately improve? Yes certainly but there are gains right out of the box.
Companies do alot of R&D on stock cars before releasing products to the market. For instance K & N does not put in production a part that didn not prove gains, and that was told to me by a k&n design engineer. That's why they ask for bone stock cars to do r&d to develop a product that does prove gains by just bolting in. Don't get me wrong here like I said I agree with you that tuning is the best way to get out numbers from a bolt on but I can say there are 0 gains from just bolting on a product.
Once again, don't get me wrong ap is an awesome product with growing capabilities for the platform.
It also comes down to the dealership. I was going to tune to be honest but here dealership is strict about warranty.
Bolt ons are something you can swap back with no problem. You are probably going to tell me, you can load back oem map but in case some don't know, everytime you reflash a map, the ecu records every single flash. At mazda they are able to see and find out that the ecu was reflashed number of times and guess what, if something happens you loose your rights. Proof is left on the ecu.Trust me this was advice by a mazda trained certified mechanic who has vast experience with mazda platform. Me personally I would have to wait.

You can reset the ECU several ways not just doing a reflash to a new map...how would the dealership monitor that?

[pwdunmore]

I could agree with you that tuning for a specific upgrade is efficiently, deffinately but stating there are minimal gains with tmic is far off. For instance the ets tmic, there are ms3 owners who have install the product right of the box with power differences across the entire powerband. If I tune it, it would definately improve? Yes certainly but there are gains right out of the box.
Companies do alot of R&D on stock cars before releasing products to the market. For instance K & N does not put in production a part that didn not prove gains, and that was told to me by a k&n design engineer. That's why they ask for bone stock cars to do r&d to develop a product that does prove gains by just bolting in. Don't get me wrong here like I said I agree with you that tuning is the best way to get out numbers from a bolt on but I can say there are 0 gains from just bolting on a product.
Once again, don't get me wrong ap is an awesome product with growing capabilities for the platform.
It also comes down to the dealership. I was going to tune to be honest but here dealership is strict about warranty.
Bolt ons are something you can swap back with no problem. You are probably going to tell me, you can load back oem map but in case some don't know, everytime you reflash a map, the ecu records every single flash. At mazda they are able to see and find out that the ecu was reflashed number of times and guess what, if something happens you loose your rights. Proof is left on the ecu.Trust me this was advice by a mazda trained certified mechanic who has vast experience with mazda platform. Me personally I would have to wait.

Get an AP and FP internals... don't be stupid. You think mazda knows everything about their cars and you think they will honor their warranty 100%? lmao... your ignorant to this platform.
Go do some research... screw dropping any knowledge on you, lots of people on here have done what you have.

Live and learn for you though. Stock tuned MS3's have been known to self detonate and have KR issues due to the stock tune.

The tune is the best thing for the car, without bolt on mods. Your ignorance in thinking certified Mazda mechanics know what's best for these cars makes me frustrated. When you have bad compression or KR issues don't come bitching here...

Definitely linking your thread to my favorite thread on MSF... "Stupid things you've heard people say about cars"

Have a nice day :)

[miako]

pwdunmore just wait til you tell these certified master techs from Mazda that you are using Rotella T6 Diesel oil in your mazdaspeed3, they will definitely tell you your warranty is long gone bro ;)

tbh op, you did research on it and you are comfortable with your selection of parts, just do it. CP-e is good brand, go with stage 2 by all means, it can't go wrong.

[eliwwjd]

Get an AP and FP internals... don't be stupid. You think mazda knows everything about their cars and you think they will honor their warranty 100%? lmao... your ignorant to this platform.
Go do some research... screw dropping any knowledge on you, lots of people on here have done what you have.

Live and learn for you though. Stock tuned MS3's have been known to self detonate and have KR issues due to the stock tune.

The tune is the best thing for the car, without bolt on mods. Your ignorance in thinking certified Mazda mechanics know what's best for these cars makes me frustrated. When you have bad compression or KR issues don't come bitching here...

Definitely linking your thread to my favorite thread on MSF... "Stupid things you've heard people say about cars"

Have a nice day :)

To be honest I don't know how long you had mazda vehicles since you have been born but I've had mazda cars maybe when you were still in elementary school so stop talking bull**** you don't know. Mazda does warranty 100% their warranties, at least were I live.
The extreme stupid person is the one who comments without absolutely no proof thinking they know it all!

Mr. know it all, if you are so good in your knowledge maybe you should apply for a engineering job at mazda,
who knows maybe they might hire you. Have a nice day also!!!!

[boyracer]

This is fun.

[Jdm_dudebro]

Eli clearly doesn't know what he's talking about... "the extreme stupid person" would be the blind Mazda customer who praises the dealer like they know everything. U know who the techs and service ppl are? You know their "qualifications"? I've met some pretty ignorant ppl who work at dealerships. Some that couldn't identify a genuine Mazda part! Who made getting a warranty job done 1000 times harder because of their ignorance. Mazda warranties 100 percent of their warranties? What does that even mean!? Step aside bro, and keep believing ppl at dealers know it all. Hell! Even family doctors don't know. Everything in in their field.... Think about it.

[Lmmorden]

In my world I'm cool... And I'm good with that!
😜

[eliwwjd]

Eli clearly doesn't know what he's talking about... "the extreme stupid person" would be the blind Mazda customer who praises the dealer like they know everything. U know who the techs and service ppl are? You know their "qualifications"? I've met some pretty ignorant ppl who work at dealerships. Some that couldn't identify a genuine Mazda part! Who made getting a warranty job done 1000 times harder because of their ignorance. Mazda warranties 100 percent of their warranties? What does that even mean!? Step aside bro, and keep believing ppl at dealers know it all. Hell! Even family doctors don't know. Everything in in their field.... Think about it.

The mazda tech is a well known friend of mine with plenty of experience and he has many trainings and certifications, is not a dumb stupid idiot who graduated yesterday from a tech school.I don't just simply listen to what a dealership tells me.
I'm going to be honest and straight with you, I don't praise nobody, its a matter of listening to the right person!
Not every person is ignorant at a work place. I don't favor no dealership, I consult a mechanic friend who is trustworthy.
This a matter of personal opinion. No need to get all over some member just because he decided to upgrade differently, never the less insult people because they don't think the same way we do. I posted a humble decision which I went with, and look at what it has come to.
We could differ from other people without lacking of respect to the other forum member. Think about it.

[greyseason]

IBFHIB

[mickey_g]

:pop

[Karmaspeed]

IBFHIB

my age must be catching up with me; I can't keep up with all these f*****g abbreviations...
rest of the other guys...chill, relax, sunny warm days will be here and we will soon have our glorified shit boxes in summer mode enjoying the roads.

[boyracer]

IBFHIB

If that abbreviation is what I think it means then it should be IBHIB. Before is one word. Unless in your version F stands for "f**king"

[standsideways]

IBFHIB
This this this this. Awesome thread!


And on topic: JBR 88 all the way, if you don't like the vibes, you bought the wrong car.

[Kiyomi]

my age must be catching up with me; I can't keep up with all these f*****g abbreviations...
rest of the other guys...chill, relax, sunny warm days will be here and we will soon have our glorified shit boxes in summer mode enjoying the roads.

nah, its not just you lolz. no fn clue what that means.

[greyseason]

If that abbreviation is what I think it means then it should be IBHIB. Before is one word. Unless in your version F stands for "f**king"

IBHIB

you can add ****ing to almost anything though

[MS3_]

for sure id recommend stage 2 cpe, i got myself a COBB RMM and i cant wait to install it
this coming spring time.