Alignment Specs - Lowered Mazda 3 w/ Cambers

[ericssonfan]

Hey guys,
I was wondering if anybody had the alignment specs on my 3 that's lowered about 2.8" with a camber kit installed. I'm planning to get an alignment done in about a week or so and I searched these forums but came up emptyhanded.

If somebody could provide me with this info or even point towards previous threads/searches I may have overlooked, that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[Hyperion]

We can't tell you what your alignment specs will be.... Go to a shop and if you want it corrected, make sure you have adjustable camber arms in the rear Then tell them you want it as close to oem as possible.

[Dave_The_BMXER]

Just to add to what Josh said in the slim chance you have the Mazdaspeed camber arms (non adjustable) your camber is probably in spec.

But that is just a guess.

[ericssonfan]

I was under the impression that lowered cars would have a different spec range than oem specs. I feel so noob now. lol
If you guys are saying to just get it adjusted to as close as OEM than I'm good to go!

I have SPC Cambers. don't know if they'll need adjusting. My guess is that through the literally millions of potholes I've gone through around the city has knocked everything out of whack.

Thanks for the help guys! :)

Edit: I just realized the typo in my OP. I meant to ask for "alignment spec range" for lowered 3's if they differ from stock height 3's.

[Hyperion]

The camber range changes yes. But you have to either correct it with camber arms or suck it up. Toe and caster stay the same.

[ericssonfan]

Yeah I have camber arms installed already.
So ride height will have no effect on the range I need to be in? Just get to as close to OEM as possible?

Need to book appointment soon. Thanks for the help! :D

[Aitch]

The camber range changes yes. But you have to either correct it with camber arms or suck it up. Toe and caster stay the same.

Not completely.

Your target is to be as close to OEM specs as possible, yes. However, if you don't have the ability to adjust camber with adjustable arms, you will likely have more negative camber in the back than the OEM specs recommend, with no way to adjust it. In this case, you would want less toe-in than the OEM specs recommend (I believe it is around 1-degree toe-in or so) because the combination of toe-in and negative camber leads to excessive tire wear. You are essentially dragging your tires sideways as you drive forward. With stock camber it's not a big deal. So the solution is to run less toe-in, say -0.25 degrees or so, which is factory adjustable.

[Hyperion]

I have my toe at 0 all around lol. No need to kill my tires faster than they already will be.

[g_tsb]

Not completely.

Your target is to be as close to OEM specs as possible, yes. However, if you don't have the ability to adjust camber with adjustable arms, you will likely have more negative camber in the back than the OEM specs recommend, with no way to adjust it. In this case, you would want less toe-in than the OEM specs recommend (I believe it is around 1-degree toe-in or so) because the combination of toe-in and negative camber leads to excessive tire wear. You are essentially dragging your tires sideways as you drive forward. With stock camber it's not a big deal. So the solution is to run less toe-in, say -0.25 degrees or so, which is factory adjustable.

this guy's awesome

[The Wolf]

I too have my toe set to zero (or as close as they can make it with the oem parts... not quite zero) and my tires thank me.

[Aitch]

this guy's awesome

I'm a zero toe advocate and it's a mistake a lot of newbies make.