Wheel stud replacement

[Girds]

Hey guys I've searched everywhere and can not find a how to or anything like that on instructions on how to remove the front driver side wheel studs on my 2012 Mazda3 1 of them is cross threaded and it needs replaced can anyone instruct me or link to me instructions for it please??

Thanks,

[dentinger]

You'll have to remove the brake caliper/rotor, and pound out the old stud(s).

Then (if room allows), pound a new one in front the back side (I just an air hammer).

If not, find an over size nut (used as a spacer), and a open ended nut. Grease up the stud (important), and tighten the open ended nut until the stud sits flush. I always use an impact gun, so someone else here may have a better technique for using hand tools.

[Girds]

You'll have to remove the brake caliper/rotor, and pound out the old stud(s).

Then (if room allows), pound a new one in front the back side (I just an air hammer).

If not, find an over size nut (used as a spacer), and a open ended nut. Grease up the stud (important), and tighten the open ended nut until the stud sits flush. I always use an impact gun, so someone else here may have a better technique for using hand tools.

You remove the rotor by?
It's been a while since high school auto

[dentinger]

Once the Caliper is off (two bolts), the rotor will just come off (may need to hit it with a mallet). There may be a couple screws holding the rotor on. If there is, they'll be on the face between the studs.

[Lux]

dentinger is bang on.

Brake Disassembly
Remove the caliper and caliper carrier, and hang them aside.
If the brake disk does not come off, you will need to strike the hat of the brake disk with a hammer.
Not with a dinky carpenter's hammer. You need a real mechanic's hammer, at least 3 pounds.
The shock load from striking it on the hat will free the brake disk from the wheel hub.
A disk rusted onto the hub is a pretty good indication that a brake job is overdue due to age.
Heating the hat of the brake disk will expand it and help with removal.
In rare cases, if the disk still does not come off, I need to use a huge puller tool to forcibly pull it from the hub.

Stud Replacement
Locate the wheel stud that you want to change and strike it inward firmly with the hammer.
The force will punch the stud out the back of the hub face.
To install a new stud, pass it through the back of the hub.
Sleeve an oversize nut or metal bushing over the new stud before screwing on the wheel nut.
This gives the wheel nut a receiving surface against which to pull the stud through.
Zap the wheel nut with an impact wrench.
**Sometimes the wheel nut gets messed up from this, might need a new nut.
**ALWAYS use genuine dealer wheel studs and nuts (unless it's American).... Trust me on this one.
Reassemble brake components in reverse order of removal.
**It would be prudent of you to sand down the rust and lubricate the hub face before assembly.



Alternative method: I have a press that can press in/out wheel studs without sacrificing a wheel nut.

If you lived close by I would have done this for a beer and pack of smokes.

http://s7.postimg.org/e5y7xt1p7/karipa.jpg

[Girds]

dentinger is bang on.

Brake Disassembly
Remove the caliper and caliper carrier, and hang them aside.
If the brake disk does not come off, you will need to strike the hat of the brake disk with a hammer.
Not with a dinky carpenter's hammer. You need a real mechanic's hammer, at least 3 pounds.
The shock load from striking it on the hat will free the brake disk from the wheel hub.
A disk rusted onto the hub is a pretty good indication that a brake job is overdue due to age.
Heating the hat of the brake disk will expand it and help with removal.
In rare cases, if the disk still does not come off, I need to use a huge puller tool to forcibly pull it from the hub.

Stud Replacement
Locate the wheel stud that you want to change and strike it inward firmly with the hammer.
The force will punch the stud out the back of the hub face.
To install a new stud, pass it through the back of the hub.
Sleeve an oversize nut or metal bushing over the new stud before screwing on the wheel nut.
This gives the wheel nut a receiving surface against which to pull the stud through.
Zap the wheel nut with an impact wrench.
**Sometimes the wheel nut gets messed up from this, might need a new nut.
**ALWAYS use genuine dealer wheel studs and nuts (unless it's American).... Trust me on this one.
Reassemble brake components in reverse order of removal.
**It would be prudent of you to sand down the rust and lubricate the hub face before assembly.



Alternative method: I have a press that can press in/out wheel studs without sacrificing a wheel nut.

If you lived close by I would have done this for a beer and pack of smokes.

http://s7.postimg.org/e5y7xt1p7/karipa.jpg

Thanks for the detailed instructions! And I'm not old enough to buy beer or smokes lol. I'm only 18.

[jaimie08mazda3]

If ya need help lemme know. I'm only in Guelph and have replaced well the whole drivers front side on my car. Don't imagine the setup with the calipers are any different then a gen 1.

[DLYDRVN]

We have a pretty solid local contigent of garage guys... if you need help hit up me, or jamie, or you can probably sweet talk SomeGuy. He's our local hero.

[jaimie08mazda3]

We have a pretty solid local contigent of garage guys... if you need help hit up me, or jamie, or you can probably sweet talk SomeGuy. He's our local hero.
Not today he's not ;). Got er done at the girlfriend's house today. Good meeting you bro! Hopefully it stays threaded this time haha.

[Girds]

Thanks for you help! It rides pretty good! And hopefully it stays threaded.

[Punisher-One]

Just had to do my studs when I did my front brakes.
Not much of a PITA at all really. Hammer out and hammer back in. The PITA was finding a supplier near me with them in stock.