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View Full Version : IM so $*@# mad right now



Ps3alltheway
09-13-2014, 08:02 PM
I was doing brakes on my car, figured im gonna save money by doing them by myself (On a 2010 2.5 Mazda 3)
Took me 2 hours to remove one rotor, they are all ****ing seized, I've never seen shit like this in my life. I hit the rotor with a sledge hammer, tried to heat up the rotor, lots of wd40 and all that shit and still took me all this time for one.
Then I go to the driver's side, same ****ing story. Start hitting with the sledge hammer and accidently hit the part on the knuckle where you have the sliding pins attached to the calipers, guess what? It broke!
So now I have to get my driver's side knuckle replaced. What a fking mess. Probably gonna end up paying 1K for all this now.
Now I don't have a car for a week, took me 4 hours to do almost NOTHING productive on my car, end up breaking a part on the car.

ARGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HH:bang

Fack_Dude
09-13-2014, 08:49 PM
LOL :)

Dukemeister
09-13-2014, 09:12 PM
I feel your pain. Remember, on average you're still ahead as a DIYer.

07carbon3
09-13-2014, 10:48 PM
#injimmywetrust

Hyperion
09-13-2014, 11:17 PM
A true diy

SomeGuy
09-14-2014, 01:23 AM
LoL there are better ways to remove seized rotors...

Nikhil Pali
09-14-2014, 01:33 AM
lts always fun to do it yourself. I once had my hand jammed into the metal clip on the ac compressor and had to call my gf from under the car to come to garage and hand me the screw drive to pry my hand out. I still got the scar from that battle with my car!!

Between, I used butane torch to remove my rotors after everything else failed.

JonsMazda
09-14-2014, 02:13 AM
Sometimes it's just not worth it to save few $$

fletch87
09-14-2014, 02:44 AM
did a suspension install today...found out i need new upper strut mounts/bearings...after everything was closed....fml
this evening with @jamie08mazda3 n dylan.pereira.22.....so i have to try to find a pair on a sunday in hamilton. lol the rear went in nice tho, should drop quite a bit when i finish

fletch87
09-14-2014, 02:44 AM
did a suspension install today...found out i need new upper strut mounts/bearings...after everything was closed....fml
this evening with @jamie08mazda3 n dylan.pereira.22.....so i have to try to find a pair on a sunday in hamilton. lol the rear went in nice tho, should drop quite a bit when i finish

with jaimie08mazda3 *****

SomeGuy
09-14-2014, 10:56 AM
Sometimes it's just not worth it to save few $$

DIY on brakes is always worth it...

loki
09-14-2014, 10:59 AM
DIY on brakes is always worth it...

sarcasm?

Jackal
09-14-2014, 11:09 AM
I'd never do a DIY on brakes unless I had someone else who has done it before to help.

I rarely see Someguy being sarcastic.

O1Kanoby
09-14-2014, 11:11 AM
I was doing brakes on my car, figured im gonna save money by doing them by myself (On a 2010 2.5 Mazda 3)
Took me 2 hours to remove one rotor, they are all ****ing seized, I've never seen shit like this in my life. I hit the rotor with a sledge hammer, tried to heat up the rotor, lots of wd40 and all that shit and still took me all this time for one.
Then I go to the driver's side, same ****ing story. Start hitting with the sledge hammer and accidently hit the part on the knuckle where you have the sliding pins attached to the calipers, guess what? It broke!
So now I have to get my driver's side knuckle replaced. What a fking mess. Probably gonna end up paying 1K for all this now.
Now I don't have a car for a week, took me 4 hours to do almost NOTHING productive on my car, end up breaking a part on the car.

ARGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HH:bang

same exact thing happened to me last year, i know ur struggle bro.

Ps3alltheway
09-14-2014, 11:21 AM
ahh that sucks!
How much did you end up paying for the repairs ?

SomeGuy
09-14-2014, 12:16 PM
sarcasm?

LoL no...paying the dealer $200 labour or a couple hours in the garage is a no brainer to me. About the only non DIY part of brake work is turning down the rotors.

Reddie1337
09-14-2014, 02:24 PM
LoL no...paying the dealer $200 labour or a couple hours in the garage is a no brainer to me. About the only non DIY part of brake work is turning down the rotors.

With rotors being as cheap as they are nowadays, its almost better to just throw them away when you get new pads. They aren't like they used to be where you could get 2-3 pad sets to a rotor, its basically 1pad set-1rotor now, the amount of grooving and wear is just better to throw them away. We only get them machined if they have just been sitting around for too long now.

JonsMazda
09-14-2014, 02:49 PM
LoL no...paying the dealer $200 labour or a couple hours in the garage is a no brainer to me. About the only non DIY part of brake work is turning down the rotors.

Independant Garage usually charge $60 bucks for this type of job.

SomeGuy
09-14-2014, 05:41 PM
With rotors being as cheap as they are nowadays, its almost better to just throw them away when you get new pads. They aren't like they used to be where you could get 2-3 pad sets to a rotor, its basically 1pad set-1rotor now, the amount of grooving and wear is just better to throw them away. We only get them machined if they have just been sitting around for too long now.

Yup, couldn't agree more. Was just saying that pretty much all other parts of brake work one can do with simple tools at home, a brake lathe isn't something you'll find in a home shop 99.99% of the time.



Independant Garage usually charge $60 bucks for this type of job.

Per axle I'd guess...even still, a couple hours of my time is certainly worth saving $120.

TheMAN
09-14-2014, 07:07 PM
umm... did you even try hitting the hammer on the rotor hat? that usually breaks it free

zoomzoomtech
09-16-2014, 04:50 PM
The first set of rotors on most Mazda 3s seize on from rust on the hub... It takes 5 to 10 mins to get off... Hit the rotor surface very hard until the rotor surface actually breaks away from the hub portion of the rotor... Then proceed to hit the side of the hub portion of the rotor very hard taking care not to miss and take out a wheel stud.... It will either crack or come loose or break in too... 3 to 4 pound hammer ... Hit it like a man just saying... Do these daily...

sarujo
09-16-2014, 06:24 PM
Bummer for the OP. But with my brakes looking to last 5+ years and 2 kids (no time), I will happily go to Jimmy. :) With all the boneheads here bugging him on Sundays, I'm sure he will appreciate brute sledge hammer work to vent! :chuckle:chuckle

Cab0oze
09-16-2014, 08:44 PM
I've had my fair share of pain doing brake jobs. In the end, a bigger hammer has always saved the day. I'm curious to know how you were hitting it with this sledgehammer (and how many lbs it was) if it still wouldnt' come off...

Lmmorden
09-16-2014, 08:49 PM
This thread is awesome..

peterm15
09-17-2014, 03:22 PM
This all sounds very familiar geobur.

Sometimes even the bolt trick won't work.

Lmmorden
09-17-2014, 03:24 PM
Just got better

geobur
09-17-2014, 03:42 PM
This all sounds very familiar @<a href="http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/member.php?u=20029" target="_blank">geobur</a>.

Sometimes even the bolt trick won't work.

yup just went through this earlier this summer with peterm15

the rotors on my 2008 GT sedan were seized on like crazy, we tried slamming it with a sledge/maul not even a budge, ended up hitting one of my posts so we had to tap that using a tap and die set to try and get the thread fixed...then gave up for a week...spent a week applying penetrating oil like pb blaster every other day in hopes it would loosen it...so we tried the weekend after and no dice...tried the bolt method and still no dice...(however that being said I don't think we were doing the bolt method quite correctly)

try this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsTJCRljAs

But I ended up going to Jimmy.

DarkKilla
09-17-2014, 10:52 PM
I had serious issues getting my rotors off as well by banging on them from the front and the center, it was like they were welded on. What worked was popping them from the inside-outwards. Find bolts and nuts from the hardware store and thread them through the caliper mounting bracket holes, tighten to apply pressure from the bolt on to the back of the rotor, rotate the rotor and do it all over again all the way around, you will hear cracks from the rust breaking, eventually the rotor will pop off. Cover your studs with old lugnut bolts if your using a sledge to make sure not to damage them.

stock3
09-18-2014, 05:53 PM
Don't let this discourage you from DIYing. Living in Ontatio, rusted in stuff is part of any automotive work and you either learn how to deal with it or let others do the work and pay for it handsomely.

I did my fair share of brake jobs and over the years have learned to lube all contact points or use anti seize. If you think ahead and put anti seize on the hub and rotor hats, the next brake job will be child's play. The rotors on my cars come off by a light tap either by hand or a soft mallet.

If you didn't do that, you can still apply some lube to the back of the rotors without removing them. Get some lube in a spray bottle and a straw and spray it where the studs come through the rotor. There is usually a small opening there to allow the lube to get bihind, make sure you spray through all five holes. I did that when the car was brand new, and repeated whenever the wheels were off and the rotors never rusted in.

Ps3alltheway
09-19-2014, 10:37 AM
Don't let this discourage you from DIYing. Living in Ontatio, rusted in stuff is part of any automotive work and you either learn how to deal with it or let others do the work and pay for it handsomely.

I did my fair share of brake jobs and over the years have learned to lube all contact points or use anti seize. If you think ahead and put anti seize on the hub and rotor hats, the next brake job will be child's play. The rotors on my cars come off by a light tap either by hand or a soft mallet.

If you didn't do that, you can still apply some lube to the back of the rotors without removing them. Get some lube in a spray bottle and a straw and spray it where the studs come through the rotor. There is usually a small opening there to allow the lube to get bihind, make sure you spray through all five holes. I did that when the car was brand new, and repeated whenever the wheels were off and the rotors never rusted in.

thx for the tip! when I will change my tires I will put lube there and every year after winter I will get the rotors off put some anti seize and put them back on, also clean and lub the sliding pins.

Anyways just to give you guys an update. I ended up paying 590 $ for a knuckle replacement, one caliper (was leaking apparently), finish the brake job on passenger side and rear + oil change. So I don't find it THAT bad considering all the job that was done.
So In total I paid 420 $ for 4 rotors,pads,sliding pins and brake cleaner + 590 $ . 1010 $ job for brakes and a oil change haha

Reddie1337
09-19-2014, 10:54 AM
thx for the tip! when I will change my tires I will put lube there and every year after winter I will get the rotors off put some anti seize and put them back on, also clean and lub the sliding pins.

Anyways just to give you guys an update. I ended up paying 590 $ for a knuckle replacement, one caliper (was leaking apparently), finish the brake job on passenger side and rear + oil change. So I don't find it THAT bad considering all the job that was done.
So In total I paid 420 $ for 4 rotors,pads,sliding pins and brake cleaner + 590 $ . 1010 $ job for brakes and a oil change haha

Ouch, but you did also get a caliper done as well. I normally like to do them in pairs (uneven stopping power from an older, tighter one compared to new and easy sliding)

But at least it's all fixed.

roachkillah
09-19-2014, 01:19 PM
i did exactly what geobur has on that video
it worked as advertised.

Ps3alltheway
09-19-2014, 07:11 PM
Ouch, but you did also get a caliper done as well. I normally like to do them in pairs (uneven stopping power from an older, tighter one compared to new and easy sliding)

But at least it's all fixed.

thats what I thought but I talked to a few guys and they told me not to change them in pairs, it's recommended but useless because the old galiper can even outlast the new one, basicly they told me why repair when it's not broken

zoomzoomtech
11-27-2014, 07:08 PM
I take those front factory rotors off with my 3 lb hammer in 5 mins a side.... Doesn't matter how seized they are... Hit the rotor like man...and it literally breaks away from the hub portion of the rotor then hit down like a man and break the hub portion in two.... My record is 5 total hits to remove one of those... Lol not to be mean or anything but sometimes some things are just done better by the professionals...lol

zoomzoomtech
11-27-2014, 07:11 PM
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/27/834bc1a667481b2b703f51edb6966db8.jpg

Reddie1337
11-27-2014, 11:38 PM
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/27/834bc1a667481b2b703f51edb6966db8.jpg

My favourite thing to do :)

One guy in my shop missed the one time and snapped the calliper mounting hole clean off. That's why we hit from the front now.

fatcowxlive
11-28-2014, 12:44 AM
Goddamn. Although it didn't work out at all for you, kudos for attempting. Personally I would never trust myself with something as important as brakes lol

bubba1983
11-28-2014, 01:02 AM
i wonder what most peoples definition of hitting "hard" would be...hmmm....
i sure know what my definition of "hard" would be.....

dentinger
11-28-2014, 02:04 AM
We tell other guys in the shop to "take their ****ing purse off and hit it harder"

I've destroyed many rotors like the picture posted above.

brucewayne
11-28-2014, 04:29 AM
wow so you guys just break it? lol im excellent at breaking things... can't wait to try this in the spring.

staax
11-28-2014, 10:50 AM
Jesus Lol I'm not looking forward to the brakes on my Mazda.

I absolutely hate the jobs that should be simple but turn out to be a huge PITA.

I would rather swap the engine in my Dakota again than have to do brake lines on my old beater Corolla.

js593
12-09-2014, 03:48 PM
Every time you remove a wheel, always make sure there is a little wiggle room for the rotor. Always done this to all my cars and never had to break anything. Rotors on my 2011 are being replaced in spring, along with a caliper paint job. While i'm in there, ill be applying a very thin layer of antiseize where the rotor sits on the hub. this will prevent future issues.

lcianf01
12-09-2014, 09:07 PM
To remove my rotors on my 2005 Mazda 3, I used a jack-hammer (same one to break our concrete floor) to get them off.

mazdaman007
05-15-2015, 12:11 PM
I bought this but then I'm running four cars and do all my own brakes so for me it was a worthwhile investment. Rotor comes off in less than 30 seconds with no fuss.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CGOGFS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1