View Full Version : immobilisation light flashing/ mazda 3 wont start
Ps3alltheway
01-25-2015, 05:50 PM
I am having the exact same issue has in this video, I tried to jump start in case my battery was the problem and nothing changes.
What the **** seriously, fcking electronic bs.
And wow user manual is so helping 'if it happens contact Mazda dealer'
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JF2N-Ea7ITU
McGuyver_3
01-25-2015, 06:54 PM
Gen 1,2,3? Gen 1 check all connections on PJB, thats the only thing I can think of.
If thats not it, you are going to have to contact a dealer. Keys go bad, its not uncommon.
Ps3alltheway
01-25-2015, 08:28 PM
Gen 1,2,3? Gen 1 check all connections on PJB, thats the only thing I can think of.
If thats not it, you are going to have to contact a dealer. Keys go bad, its not uncommon.
Mazda 3 2010 gt, keys go bad wth does that mean, my 1995 4runner never gave me a bs snag like this, neither did my 99 protege, 2003 honda civic.
Ps3alltheway
01-25-2015, 08:31 PM
Im starting to feel like this is a cheap ass car, change tranny mount twice under warranty, 2 calipers, now this, car has intermittant starting issues from time to time, clutch is frozen when cold outside, hard to shift in second gear when cold outside...
McGuyver_3
01-25-2015, 09:30 PM
Mazda 3 2010 gt, keys go bad wth does that mean, my 1995 4runner never gave me a bs snag like this, neither did my 99 protege, 2003 honda civic.
The chip in the key fails to transmit required start codes. I've come across brand new keys factory ordered at work that do not work. It happens get over it
Your 4 runner and probably the protege would not have had immobilizers. And yes I have had coworkers who have had a problem with the immobilizer in their honda. Dealer replaced the key and reprogrammed it and all was good.
As for your other concerns, I am on my 3'rd 3 and have not had any factory mounts break on me, neither have I had to replace any calipers. Should be asking what are you doing to the car to be causing these problems? Yes My clutch/gears are also sluggish on extreme cold temp startup but it still works. After a few shifts everything returns to normal. It is normal operation. Once again get over it
Ps3alltheway
01-25-2015, 11:36 PM
The chip in the key fails to transmit required start codes. I've come across brand new keys factory ordered at work that do not work. It happens get over it
Your 4 runner and probably the protege would not have had immobilizers. And yes I have had coworkers who have had a problem with the immobilizer in their honda. Dealer replaced the key and reprogrammed it and all was good.
As for your other concerns, I am on my 3'rd 3 and have not had any factory mounts break on me, neither have I had to replace any calipers. Should be asking what are you doing to the car to be causing these problems? Yes My clutch/gears are also sluggish on extreme cold temp startup but it still works. After a few shifts everything returns to normal. It is normal operation. Once again get over it
I was pissed off cause the car left me stranded in a empty parking lot. So what am i looking at, is this going to be ridiculously expansive?
Ps3alltheway
01-25-2015, 11:39 PM
Imo this should be free of charge, imagine if this happens while im in middle of nowhere, i get it that a car can break at any timr, but usually you know when something is about to go wrong with the car, this I didn't get any warning signs or what so ever. This aint normal. What am i doing the car? Look it up, 2nd gen has weak mounts and bad calipers, not the only case. First car also thst i experience the frozen clutch syndrome.
McGuyver_3
01-26-2015, 02:52 AM
Lmao, sorry but you made me laugh with "free of charge" you sound like every customer that walks through our door. Everything should be free, even though the car is out of warranty. Faulty keys is nothing new and we have had them towed in when they refuse to start. Is what it is. The gen 1's had bad mounts as well and the rear calipers hand brake cables would sieze. Never experienced any of those problems and you make it seem like this is a huge problem. Had it been such a serious problem there would have been a recal issued on the calipers. I actually did google it and all I could find was rear hand brakes seizing, which again is a user fault. A lot of people do not use the handbrake especially on auto.
To give you a good example on problems with brakes, I recently changed a brake booster on a newer car, head office contacted us immediately asking why we were changing the booster. They are even going to be breaking it down to inspect what went wrong with it. Manufacturers do not take brake problems lightly
TheMAN
01-26-2015, 03:00 AM
if you don't like so many electronics, drive an older car
Ps3alltheway
02-01-2015, 12:14 PM
if you don't like so many electronics, drive an older car
If you're not a man drive automatic, oh wait.
McGuyver_3
02-01-2015, 02:39 PM
If you're not a man drive automatic, oh wait.
I don't get it. You mad bro?
gowings
01-23-2016, 03:06 PM
I've looking for a resolve to my daughters 07 GT manual woes and the immobilization flashing on the dash.. I've searched the forums finding reflashing the ECM as a last resort. As it sits now the car won't start. All works fine, windows locks, lights etc. Just won't crank. Got the anti theft flashing on the dash. I've tried both her keys opened all and closed all the doors and trunk, windows up down. Still no fix,. She stopped at the store and came out and it won't start. Any ideas I can try before getting it towed to the dealership are appreciated.
Thanks for the replies.
gowings
01-23-2016, 03:18 PM
Update to this after leaving the car overnight. She got the car started with the spare key. One of the keys she tried yesterday that would not work. This would be the the key without fob. The key with the fob would not start the car today.
gowings
01-23-2016, 03:29 PM
Any thoughts going forward would be much appreciated. I assume there is a delay on the ECM that wipes the slate clean on the immobilizer. That's why it started after sitting overnight.
Noisy Crow
01-23-2016, 05:11 PM
Well... if starts with one key, but not another, I'd start by suspecting that the non-working key has been damaged. The keys contain a small chip that emits a code when hit by a pulse from ECM circuitry. If the chip or its antenna loop is damaged then it won't reliably sent out the required code.
gowings
01-23-2016, 08:04 PM
Well... if starts with one key, but not another, I'd start by suspecting that the non-working key has been damaged. The keys contain a small chip that emits a code when hit by a pulse from ECM circuitry. If the chip or its antenna loop is damaged then it won't reliably sent out the required code.
any thoughts on neither key working last night.
ryan2.3
01-24-2016, 05:52 PM
weak/cold battery? battery on teh way out?
i can't see the video because it's private, but if its the issue where all the lights on the dash click on and off rapidly, your battery may be on the way out, i had it happen a few times and needed to be boosted in the parking lot at work. Once i swapped the battery to a new one it was all good. perhaps when the other key had worked it was more charge and it so happened next it was too weak to start, hence both keys not working?
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