cold weather hard to start

[Sylorna]

Good morning
I'm sure you guys get a lot of this, but I'm starting to get a little concerned about my 2011 Mazda 3 sport.

In the last few weeks if the temp drops below -15 I'm having a hard time starting it, usually in the morning. When this problem started I would turn the key all the way, it would choke a couple of times and stop trying. Now it chokes a bunch of times and if I really push it it makes a clunking sound (which I'm sure can't be good). Until this morning it has started up on the second try every time. This morning (-29 with windchill) it took me about 4 tries before it would go. When it does start it revs to about 2000 and then will drop down slowly after that.

My car has about 83,000km's on it, most of which is highway driving. I did not get the last maintenance done, nor the engine flush they were pushing because I couldn't afford it. Oil changes have been regular. We park outside and do not have access to a plug (which is unfortunate, because we do have a block heater). This is the first winter since owning it that the engine has not been warmer during the winter (for the first year I was able to use my block heater, the second and third years we parked underground. Our new apartment does not have these options unfortunately).

I am aware that my warranty has expired, so I'm wondering: What could be going on here? Should I be taking it to the dealership? Should I be taking it to another shop (and if I should, where do you suggest?).

Thanks for your help.

[staax]

Is your battery original? If so I'd have it tested... It could be failing and not providing enough juice to turn the motor over easily.

That clunk you're speaking of just might be the engine failing to start.

[Mr Wilson]

On cold mornings put the key to, I think it's called the 'accessory' position where all your warning lights come on. Let it sit for 3-5 seconds and then try starting it.

[Sylorna]

The battery is original. I didn't think it would be the battery based off of experience with past cars, but the batteries I've had die in the past were fine one day and dead the next, so it might be worth looking at indeed.

Thanks for the accessories tip...I'll give it a shot.

[coppermica]

+1 on the accessories tip . i do this on really cold mornings like today. the car sounds rough for the first second but always starts and the idle levels out within 5 sec . as for the engine flush , if you're getting regular oil changes every 6000-8000 km its not necessary to have the engine flushed on a car as new as yours

[brucewayne]

On cold mornings put the key to, I think it's called the 'accessory' position where all your warning lights come on. Let it sit for 3-5 seconds and then try starting it.

i do this most of the time now, regardless of weather. remote starts on very cold days are wanted but might not work.


starter, battery, and alternator are the components of your starting and charging system. 1 weak link weakens the others. i changed my battery about a year ago... then 2 weeks later i had to get my car towed and the starter replaced... maybe i could have saved my starter if i hadnt worked it so hard by replacing the battery sooner.

[Noisy Crow]

My battery is now seven years old and my car starts every time. It did crank for a couple of seconds before starting this morning (-25C) but it started with no choking or stumbling. I attribute this partially to having a manual transmission (less starting drag that with an automatic) and to having fully synthetic oil in the engine. Synthetic doesn't turn to goo like semi-synthetic or conventional.

[Sylorna]

Ok, I'll make sure I have them check the battery next time I take her in, which should be soon because I need an oil change this month.

I thought the engine flush seemed pretty early...especially since they asked me to do it at the same time as my transmission flush (which I did out of fear of things breaking down). They said it wouldn't affect my warranty so I didn't do it.

I'll let you know how the accessory tip works *fingers crossed*

[Sylorna]

My battery is now seven years old and my car starts every time. It did crank for a couple of seconds before starting this morning (-25C) but it started with no choking or stumbling. I attribute this partially to having a manual transmission (less starting drag that with an automatic) and to having fully synthetic oil in the engine. Synthetic doesn't turn to goo like semi-synthetic or conventional.

As far as I know my car is required to have Synthetic oil, or at least that's what I've been told by a number of places.

[staax]

If you run 0W20 then your option is only synthetic. I have not seen a 0W20 conventional.

I cannot remember if the 0W20 requirement started in the 2011's or 2012's though.

As for this whole engine flush crap... Its just a dealer money maker.

At only 83,000 kms if you've kept on top of your oil changes you'll be fine. Even if you pushed it 5000 kms past an oil change you'll still be fine especially with a synthetic.

No where in the maintenance schedule does it call for an engine flush. Do not put that crap in your engine.

[Sylorna]

If you run 0W20 then your option is only synthetic. I have not seen a 0W20 conventional.

I cannot remember if the 0W20 requirement started in the 2011's or 2012's though.

As for this whole engine flush crap... Its just a dealer money maker.

At only 83,000 kms if you've kept on top of your oil changes you'll be fine. Even if you pushed it 5000 kms past an oil change you'll still be fine especially with a synthetic.

No where in the maintenance schedule does it call for an engine flush. Do not put that crap in your engine.

So glad I made the right choice! I actually came onto the forum and looked it up before making my decision...didn't sound right to me at all.

Thanks everyone, you've really helped me relax about this whole thing :)

[dbear]

I also have a M3 2011 but with 66K on it and on the back of my mind, I'm wondering when my battery will die. Any recommendations on when to get a new one before it dies out completely?

[davmcn]

I have a 2013 2.5L and I can say that anytime it's about -10 or colder it clunks to start. Past about -15c it only starts the second time. Battery has been tested by mazda and is in "excellent" condition. Car has 60K on it.

[Canadianbacon]

I have a 2013 2.5L and I can say that anytime it's about -10 or colder it clunks to start. Past about -15c it only starts the second time. Battery has been tested by mazda and is in "excellent" condition. Car has 60K on it.

Yup normal for Mazda's but cars perfectly fine. mines 2010 same thing :)

[TheMAN]

hard starts when it's cold is normal... especially if your battery is weak
the clunks happen when there is not enough voltage from the battery to continuously engage the starter's solenoid, which causes the starter gears to kick back and as the battery voltage rebuilds, the starter tries to kick back in... the clunk sounds then results as the starter gear can't mesh with the flywheel

also when posting about the temperature, post ONLY the actual temperature... the car doesn't feel wind chill and therefore it doesn't get affected by it... it's meaningless except for dramatics... it only makes it more difficult for anyone to help troubleshoot a problem

[Sylorna]

Just wanted to let you guys know that the trick is working well. I do think you're right, that the battery could be better, especially since the trick worked. There has only been once or twice that I have had to try a second time since I wrote the post. It still chokes but not as badly as before, and I haven't heard that clunking sound in a long time.
So when I get my battery tested, should I have that done specifically at a dealership or can I get the mechanics down the street to test it? Also, if the battery is starting to go what brand do you suggest?
Thanks again everyone.

Theman: Thanks for the information. I had included the windchill because I did not know if the wind effected the ability to start, as it seems to have a harder time when the wind is up versus when it is at the same temperature outside with no wind. Probably just my imagination.

[Raxor]

Also, if the battery is starting to go what brand do you suggest?

I purchased a Kirkland 24F battery from costco (dont know if they have them anymore)

I had issues with the stock battery on my 2010 (early I know) but decided to change it anyway

Car has no issues starting up now and is always parked outside night/day.