Engine swap completed now there is a loud sqeeling grinding noise?

[stanceiskeyforamazda3]

i have a 2007 mazda 3 hatchback ( touring edition ) i recently sent my car off to my bestfriends dad to do an engine swap ( other 2.3 blew on me ) the new engine is in but when i go to start it it wont crank. tested the battery its good, so im loosing power to the starter. but the weird thing is when i " jump it " it will start no problem. now for the grinding noise it sounds like it is coming from the flywheel where the tranny bolts up. loud squeeling grinding noise but the engine will still run fine no stalls no cut outs nothing. any ideas? ( i do not have a video )

[staax]

Starter may be installed incorrectly or just on its way out. Perhaps the starter gear isn't grabbing onto the flex plate enough? Or that the solenoid is shot?

[Squisher]

By jump it do you mean bump start it or hooking up jumper cables to another vehicle?

[stanceiskeyforamazda3]

Thanks for the input i really hope thats what it is and i dont have to spend much more lol Thanks!

[stanceiskeyforamazda3]

and jumper cables to another vheicle to start it.

[Flagrum_3]

and jumper cables to another vheicle to start it.

Two things you can do before spending much cash; First, check all connections including your battery, starter and ground connections are tight, clean and no kinked or frayed wires. Secondly charge up your battery...Probably 70-90% of the time if you can jump start the car but it won't start with your battery, its a dead battery.


_3

[McGuyver_3]

Has the car been driven? or is it still on the hoist?
IF
it has been driven- Not sure
IF
it is still on the hoist
....DOUBLE CHECK the torque converter to the flywheel bolts.
Make sure the bolts are tight/present
As for the battery, like stated check your connections. If all is good try recharging or simply replace the battery

[Squisher]

It was stated in the opening that the battery tested good. But then if it starts and turns over fine while connected to jumpers to another vehicle I'd be checking all connections as Flagum_3 stated but would really be looking to the grounds.

[McGuyver_3]

It was stated in the opening that the battery tested good. But then if it starts and turns over fine while connected to jumpers to another vehicle I'd be checking all connections as Flagum_3 stated but would really be looking to the grounds.

As much as I would like to agree with you BUT battery testers are not exactly the most reliable. We have one at work that will pass batteries that have gone completely flat. Just because they have 12V does not mean it has sufficient CCA's to turn over the motor. If it is starting with a boost from another car could indicate a bad battery.

[Squisher]

I agree about testers and testing, and that it could be the battery still. With a motor swap just happening, I'd be suspect of all wiring connections. But was sort of assuming(possibly a mistake) that if the battery was fine before, was tested, and is fully charged that it would probably be a messed up/missed/or loose ground. Certainly swapping with a new or known good battery is a easy fix/diagnosis.

[McGuyver_3]

I agree about testers and testing, and that it could be the battery still. With a motor swap just happening, I'd be suspect of all wiring connections. But was sort of assuming(possibly a mistake) that if the battery was fine before, was tested, and is fully charged that it would probably be a messed up/missed/or loose ground. Certainly swapping with a new or known good battery is a easy fix/diagnosis.

If this is the case, I would say that the actual battery terminals would be loose. If you can start with a boost technically you are bypassing the actual battery itself as you are getting straight power to the vitals. I could be wrong but that's my thinking out loud.