Front Wheel Hub Replacement 2005 Mazda 3 GT

[samsono]

Hello everyone,

Looking for some input from anyone with experience replacing a front wheel hub in a first generation Mazda 3. I've determined that my front left wheel bearing is failing (grinding noise especially when turning right, excessive play in the wheel hub) and have been researching installation guides, primarily referenced here:

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?59200-DIY-Front-Wheel-Bearing-Mazda-3-Gen1
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123743584-DIY-front-wheel-bearing-hub-replacement
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUReVtaH34c
http://forums.redflagdeals.com/how-replace-wheel-bearing-hub-assembly-mazda3-741315/

I've been given A LOT of information and am trying to piece it together as best I can. Some key information is:


I have purchased the wheel hub assembly from Part Source. It includes the bearing already pressed into the assembly.
I have loaned the "Front Wheel Hub Removal Tool" from Part Source. From what I can understand, this is the "Special Service Tool" referenced in the manufacturer procedure: http://www.thaimazda3.com/svmanual/esicont/en/srvc/html/B3E031104060W02.html
I do not own a machine press of any kind


My key areas of concern are:


My understanding is that, despite the fact that the bearing pressed into the wheel hub, it is still required to be pressed into and out of the steering knuckle. As far as I can understand, the Hub Removal Tool I loaned should allow me to remove the existing hub from the knuckle without the use of a press, and I'm trying to confirm this. Is anyone able to confirm what steps, if any, a machine press is required to complete this install?
When I originally purchased the wheel hub from Part Source (before I had really researched the procedure), the guy at the counter suggested that if I trusted my steering hoses, I could gently steer in opposite directions, in what I now presume could be an alternative method to pressing in the hub. Does any one have any insight to what he may have been referring to?
I've seen reference to a C-Clip which holds the bearing in place, and how this piece is known for corrosion and likely needing to be replaced. I'm assuming that this C-Clip is already installed into the new hub assembly I've purchased, but was hoping to confirm this.


If a machine press is in fact a requirement (and it seems to almost certainly is), does anyone have recommendations for any shops in the Durham region that would be willing to press the hub out of the knuckle and press the new one in?

Thanks for reading, and I appreciate any feedback or input anyone can give. If I left out any details that would provide further clairvoyance I'd be happy to provide additional info.

[McGuyver_3]

The thing that makes me a little nervous is when you say the bearing is already pressed in to the assembly. Could you please post a pic of what you purchased? If this is pre-assembled, you will be unable to put the snap ring in place. The bearing must be pressed in to the knuckle so the snap ring can be put in. Only then can the hub be installed

[ryan2.3]

i'm assuming you bought number 11 in this
http://www.thaimazda3.com/svmanual/esicont/en/srvc/html/B3E031104060W02.html
http://www.amazon.com/Brand-Bearing-Assembly-2004-05-513212/dp/B006WQSP5I/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1459427559&vehicle=2004-80-2435-1--18-6-5-8061--1-1-297--1-0&sr=1-7&ymm=2004%3Amazda%3A3&keywords=mazda3+wheel+hub

regarding where to get done in Durham, I sent a message to my mom. When i was living in ajax i needed to press the same hub and since she worked from home, i had her take it to a shop and for $20 they pressed the old one out and new one in, so when i got home from work i could finish the install myself. I believe it was in ajax or near the ajax/whitby border
You could also just call local garages to you, i'm sure would do it for $10-$20 since it doesn't take long

[samsono]

The thing that makes me a little nervous is when you say the bearing is already pressed in to the assembly. Could you please post a pic of what you purchased? If this is pre-assembled, you will be unable to put the snap ring in place. The bearing must be pressed in to the knuckle so the snap ring can be put in. Only then can the hub be installed

I purchased a generic wheel hub assembly built by Certified. The hub assembly is apparently terribly designed compared to other manufacturers, however the bearing and hub are one piece unless you are able to separately press out the bearing and press in a new one. I installed it today with no sign of a snap ring.


i'm assuming you bought number 11 in this
http://www.thaimazda3.com/svmanual/esicont/en/srvc/html/B3E031104060W02.html
http://www.amazon.com/Brand-Bearing-Assembly-2004-05-513212/dp/B006WQSP5I/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1459427559&vehicle=2004-80-2435-1--18-6-5-8061--1-1-297--1-0&sr=1-7&ymm=2004%3Amazda%3A3&keywords=mazda3+wheel+hub

regarding where to get done in Durham, I sent a message to my mom. When i was living in ajax i needed to press the same hub and since she worked from home, i had her take it to a shop and for $20 they pressed the old one out and new one in, so when i got home from work i could finish the install myself. I believe it was in ajax or near the ajax/whitby border
You could also just call local garages to you, i'm sure would do it for $10-$20 since it doesn't take long

Yes the #11 is the piece I purchased and installed, the wheel hub assembly.

I was able to complete this installation today. Here's what I did:

1) Removed tire, caliper and brake rotor, unplug abs sensor.
2) Remove tie rod from steering knuckle
3) Remove strut and lower control arm from steering knuckle
4) Slide out CV shaft
5) At this stage, the steering knuckle, with wheel hub pressed in, is fully detached.

In terms of pressing, I simply went to the Ajax Mazda dealership to get it done quickly. They charged me one hour labour to have it pressed, which is obviously gouging but oh well.

From that stage, you can simply return with the steering knuckle with new wheel hub pressed in, and reinstall in reverse order above.

Some notes from my experience:

-Be prepared for seized bolts, especially if you have rust build up. I sheared off both the tie rod retention bolt and the lower control arm ball joint retention bolt. Because of this, I had to replace the outer tie rod ($75 at Canadian tire) which simply threads onto the existing tie rod, and the ball joint retention bolt ($10 at Mazda)

Thanks for all the responses, and if anyone has any questions I'd be happy to answer.

[McGuyver_3]

I'm not able to visualize this. if the bearing was pressed on the hub how did they get the snap ring back in after pressing in the new assembly? Never come across this before. Either I have seen the whole hub that's bolt on or bearing and all needs to be pressed with a snap ring on the knuckle

[samsono]

I'm not able to visualize this. if the bearing was pressed on the hub how did they get the snap ring back in after pressing in the new assembly? Never come across this before. Either I have seen the whole hub that's bolt on or bearing and all needs to be pressed with a snap ring on the knuckle

Hey sorry for the delay. I took a few pictures of the hub assembly and will upload them tomorrow to try and illustrate what I mean. Apparently based on what people have told me it is probably the worst bearing/hub assembly design you will find in any automobile.