2008 M3 GT Headlight excessive condensation

[physhy]

Last year i noticed condensation in the passenger side headlight, around the same time I noticed buzzing noises coming from inside the housing and also noise with the motor that aligns the headlights. Turned out to be the ballast.

I ordered an OEM replacement and took the headlight off and replaced the part, all good for a while as it was late spring but this year now I am noticing the moisture inside the housing again and the HID bulb just burned out, best bet its because of the condensation/water again.

Before I replace the bulb, I read that the condensation issue might be covered in a TSB

http://www.mazdaproblems.com/tsbs/MAZDA3/2008/ #SB-09-003-13

Since I already went ahead and replaced the ballast am I going to have an issue having them replace the whole assembly because of the TSB?

If all fails and I have to do it myself is it ok to use the "quick" fix by removing the assembly, air dry it with compressor and seal with silicone?

Thanks

[MAZDArati]

You could air dry the housing and seal it but I did it differently on my 3 I drilled 2 tiny holes in the housing the let the air circulate . might not seem like a great idea and don't hold my word against it but to this day (2 years ) I haven't had a problem . cheers

[physhy]

the problem is that its not only the condensation the problem, I already had to replace the ballast and yesterday the HID bulb went so it might really need the resealing.

[js593]

A friend of mine came to me with his speed3 headlights, full of condensation. We stripped them of electronics, baked them and opened them up. Painted the inside lens with paint and the resealed them. When we resealed them we used Butyl tape and we never had an issue. No more condensation.

Its not a hard task, but its not an easy one either. Pay attention while its in the oven, don't let it bake too long. Try and pull it out after 11 minutes and see if that is enough. the first gen headlights are smaller, and way easier to open.

[pwdunmore]

A friend of mine came to me with his speed3 headlights, full of condensation. We stripped them of electronics, baked them and opened them up. Painted the inside lens with paint and the resealed them. When we resealed them we used Butyl tape and we never had an issue. No more condensation.

Its not a hard task, but its not an easy one either. Pay attention while its in the oven, don't let it bake too long. Try and pull it out after 11 minutes and see if that is enough. the first gen headlights are smaller, and way easier to open.

Where do you get the Butyl tape? ebay? amazon? local?

[physhy]

I just picked up a pair of replacement bulbs Philips D2S 35W but, when I got home i noticed the box said 6000k and I'm almost sure the original/stock bulbs are 4300k, is it worth it returning the bulbs? Is it ok to install those? I don't like installing anything "racey" to make the car look cooler so would this be close to original light performance?

[physhy]

baking is used both for softening the original seal and also after installing the new seal to set them? or only to remove?

[js593]

Where do you get the Butyl tape? ebay? amazon? local?

You should be able to get it at any wutomotive store. 3M carries a product that works great, I ended up using Pro-Form Butyl tape (for truck caps)


baking is used both for softening the original seal and also after installing the new seal to set them? or only to remove?

You must apply heat to the headlight to re-seal it as well, in this instance, we put the two parts semi together, heated it up and used vice grips and plate grips to secure and cure the tape so it didn't move. Since we did it, it has not leaked, or had any condensation.

Keep in mind if you plan on painting the headlight, you will need to allow a dry time of 24 hours for the paint to fully cure. If you do it before, you do risk it causing condensation, (but can easily be removed) or you may cause a crinkle in the paint.

[Hyperion]

I just picked up a pair of replacement bulbs Philips D2S 35W but, when I got home i noticed the box said 6000k and I'm almost sure the original/stock bulbs are 4300k, is it worth it returning the bulbs? Is it ok to install those? I don't like installing anything "racey" to make the car look cooler so would this be close to original light performance?
6000k has less output that 4300k. If you haven't installed them yet, return if you'd like.

[physhy]

they don't carry the 4300 only 5000k should replace to those? They said the 6000k is the most popular though

[Hyperion]

5k is still better than 6k.

[physhy]

is it really worth it to return? 1hr drive and to purchase the stock 4300k its also $50 more expensive. I got both philips d2s 6000k for $50

[Hyperion]

That's your call. You asked which is brighter and I answered

[js593]

not only is the 4300k way better, the lifespan is better, and the output is so much cleaner. I highly suggest going with a 4300K setup

[lemony]

I have the same problem as OP. Just bought mine recently but noticed this was a problem after it snowed/rained.


You could air dry the housing and seal it but I did it differently on my 3 I drilled 2 tiny holes in the housing the let the air circulate . might not seem like a great idea and don't hold my word against it but to this day (2 years ) I haven't had a problem . cheers

I've never done any car fixes, so is it pretty simple to do? Am I just taking out the housing and applying a caulking around the seal? Also if I were to do your hole method, did you reseal the holes somehow later? And how did you get the moisture from the housing out, does it just evaporate?

[physhy]

I just refinished and silicone all around the headlight housing, hoping the ballast is still alive and the fix works.