04' Mazda 3 GS Hatchback, bunch of problems.

[LinkinEffect]

04' Mazda3 GS 5speed manual hatch.

1- I require a oil change every 3000kms, engine starts clicking. Where's my oil going? How do I tell if it's burning? Doesn't appear to be leaking.

2- 400kms per tank. Poor fuel economy.

3- needs a new cat, any suggestions? From what I have been told, you can't just cut it out and throw one in so, that's that.

4- famous quarter panel rust, cut and patch or new quarters off a donor car? The whip is at 222,000kms. (Very well maintained.)

5- troubled starting in the cold. (Replaced the starter from a donor car as the original failed, brand new battery) what else could I do?

6- cigarette lighter doesn't work, blown fuse? Any idea where that fuse is?

7- car has to be driven for 40 minutes before heat works, any reason?


I'm always looking to upgrade my car, I plan to drive it for as long as I can, I love this car. Brand new clutch, breaks, leather seats, power everything, it's a wonderful car. What would you guys do to improve it?

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[LinkinEffect]

This is the 2.3L engine ^

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[morganc]

1) Are you using synthetic? If so, what brand? You might want to consider going up to a slightly thicker grade. Otherwise, it might be time for a valve clearance adjustment. Might also want to consider changing your PCV valve.

2) 400 is certainly on the lower end. Run some fuel system cleaner through it. If you Cat is punched, then this will lead to poor fuel economy.

3) You could try calling a wrecker and getting a system that might get you a few years. There's some aftermarket headers and cats out there that won't trigger CELs

4) Can't help you, but many others here can.

5) Clean the throttle body, clean EGR, change PCV valve, new sparkplugs and change the cat.

6) I've got a gen 2 so I can't really help you. Check the engine compartment fuse panel, fuse panel down by driver's foot, and the fuse panel inside the driver's dash area up near the steering column.

7) Time for a new thermostat. It's stuck open.

[LinkinEffect]

1) Are you using synthetic? If so, what brand? You might want to consider going up to a slightly thicker grade. Otherwise, it might be time for a valve clearance adjustment. Might also want to consider changing your PCV valve.

2) 400 is certainly on the lower end. Run some fuel system cleaner through it. If you Cat is punched, then this will lead to poor fuel economy.

3) You could try calling a wrecker and getting a system that might get you a few years. There's some aftermarket headers and cats out there that won't trigger CELs

4) Can't help you, but many others here can.

5) Clean the throttle body, clean EGR, change PCV valve, new sparkplugs and change the cat.

6) I've got a gen 2 so I can't really help you. Check the engine compartment fuse panel, fuse panel down by driver's foot, and the fuse panel inside the driver's dash area up near the steering column.

7) Time for a new thermostat. It's stuck open.
Will give what I can a try, sounds like I'm in for a expensive task. Thank you for the information! I'll update as I go.

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[jeff7670]

An open thermostat making your car run cold is the reason for your poor fuel econ.

[LinkinEffect]

I gotta throw in a reverse light switch, so I'll throw in a thermostat next week and see how things go. Thanks for the help guys.

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[TheMAN]

The 2004 is the first year, too many problems to list
The MZR engines are notorious for burning oil using the "recommended" grade... switch to 5W30 (or better, 0W30) and it should be greatly reduced or stop... this is what came in the European version as factory fill
Hard startup is usually fuel pump issues... this was a known defect

[LinkinEffect]

The 2004 is the first year, too many problems to list
The MZR engines are notorious for burning oil using the "recommended" grade... switch to 5W30 (or better, 0W30) and it should be greatly reduced or stop... this is what came in the European version as factory fill
Hard startup is usually fuel pump issues... this was a known defect
Will I need to replace the entire fuel pump?

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[TheMAN]

yes
not an easy job.... gas tank needs to be dropped

[LinkinEffect]

yes
not an easy job.... gas tank needs to be dropped
Sounds expensive, worth it at 220,000kms? Cars very well maintained. I figured I will be driving it for atleast 3-4 years to come. I don't actually experience any hard start ups yet. Only problem I had was the starter itself went. Or was going, so I swapped it out before it became a problem.

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[TheMAN]

you will know you need it when it takes turns over for a long time before the engine fires up

[Flagrum_3]

Change out your thermostat and fresh coolant, that should help with the heat and bad mileage and possibly your cat.

Change out the PCV valve, that'll fix the oil issue almost for sure, and switch to a 5w30 or 0w30.

Your starting problem is it turning over fast and strong? If so, it could simply be due to your PSV (Purge solenoid valve gone bad) change it out, its a cheap fix...check your battery strength also.

As for the body rust at your vehicles age and mileage, I'd just patch it up. Its very expensive to change out the rear quarters and not an easy task.


_3

[LinkinEffect]

Change out your thermostat and fresh coolant, that should help with the heat and bad mileage and possibly your cat.

Change out the PCV valve, that'll fix the oil issue almost for sure, and switch to a 5w30 or 0w30.

Your starting problem is it turning over fast and strong? If so, it could simply be due to your PSV (Purge solenoid valve gone bad) change it out, its a cheap fix...check your battery strength also.

As for the body rust at your vehicles age and mileage, I'd just patch it up. Its very expensive to change out the rear quarters and not an easy task.


_3

Brand new battery, probably 3 months old.
Thanks for the info, I'll get the thermostat and pcv valve swapped out, I'll look into the PSV. Starting isn't to bad, only happens occasionally.

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[Flagrum_3]

Brand new battery, probably 3 months old.
Thanks for the info, I'll get the thermostat and pcv valve swapped out, I'll look into the PSV. Starting isn't to bad, only happens occasionally.

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Well the fact it only gives you starting issues "periodically" tells me it definitely may be the PSV, as that is one of the symptoms of a bad PSV.

Just so you know the PCV valve is not easy to replace, as it's behind the intake manifold and pretty sure you'll have to remove the IM to get to it.

I'd also suggest checking your plugs, just as a preventative measure, if not done already.


_3

[morganc]

Yuppppp, the IM does have to come out. It's a 'nice to replace' but you will learn a host of new swear words trying to replace it. :)



Well the fact it only gives you starting issues "periodically" tells me it definitely may be the PSV, as that is one of the symptoms of a bad PSV.

Just so you know the PCV valve is not easy to replace, as it's behind the intake manifold and pretty sure you'll have to remove the IM to get to it.

I'd also suggest checking your plugs, just as a preventative measure, if not done already.


_3

[LinkinEffect]

Yuppppp, the IM does have to come out. It's a 'nice to replace' but you will learn a host of new swear words trying to replace it. :)
I'm pretty good bodyman, but when it comes to engine mechanics well, it took me 3 hours to change a alternator in my old 05 civic si sedan. Sounds like an all day project haha, but if it gives me better reliability and performance, well worth it.

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[LinkinEffect]

Change out your thermostat and fresh coolant, that should help with the heat and bad mileage and possibly your cat.

Change out the PCV valve, that'll fix the oil issue almost for sure, and switch to a 5w30 or 0w30.

Your starting problem is it turning over fast and strong? If so, it could simply be due to your PSV (Purge solenoid valve gone bad) change it out, its a cheap fix...check your battery strength also.

As for the body rust at your vehicles age and mileage, I'd just patch it up. Its very expensive to change out the rear quarters and not an easy task.


_3
So my cars currently running 5W20, what would be the recommended swap? Will this effect anything?

Thanks,
Tim

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[Flagrum_3]

So my cars currently running 5W20, what would be the recommended swap? Will this effect anything?

Thanks,
Tim

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As mentioned by myself and others, 5W30 or 0W30 would be the proper swap. 0W30 would be a 100% synthetic, 5W30 can be bought either synthetic or as a regular oil. It's your choice if you want to spend the extra money on synthetic or not. The 30 weight over the 20 weight will simply give you a slightly thicker oil, which will have no detrimental effect, but could help with oil loss due to engine wear. This is pretty standard to do with a higher mileage engine.


_3

[don67]

Sounds expensive, worth it at 220,000kms?

Good question. But it's the age factor that would really cause me to rethink any big repairs on a 13-year-old salt-belt Mazda3.

Have a close look at the subframes, rockers, strut towers, fuel lines and brake lines. Is it still worth it to patch the quarter panels, fix a rough start condition, or worry about oil consumption? At some point you stop swabbing the deck of the Titanic, and head for the bar to enjoy as many free drinks as possible in the time remaining.

[LinkinEffect]

Good question. But it's the age factor that would really cause me to rethink any big repairs on a 13-year-old salt-belt Mazda3.

Have a close look at the subframes, rockers, strut towers, fuel lines and brake lines. Is it still worth it to patch the quarter panels, fix a rough start condition, or worry about oil consumption? At some point you stop swabbing the deck of the Titanic, and head for the bar to enjoy as many free drinks as possible in the time remaining.
There's a solid 3-4 years left, guaranteed. Very well maintained all its life. But being in Canada, most patch jobs only last 3 years unless your changing the entire panel. So I'm thinking that's probably my best route. Any sort of rust hole in Ontario after the new safety laws, all you need is one jerk cop to say there is a rust hole, and deem your car as unsafe.

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