Output from Bose head unit in Gen3 GT models

[MikeSafari]

I'm looking to pull the Bose system out of my car and install something significantly higher-end, but I'm having trouble figuring out if the Bose head unit outputs a full-range flat signal to the amplifier which then does EQ work, or if the head unit itself does some EQ work. Obviously because of how tightly integrated the head unit and control system is I'd like to keep those stock.

Does anyone know or has anyone found a reference where somebody's done some actual RTA work to find out what the output is like? You can see what I mean in this video (https://youtu.be/kYsnvoip_oc?list=PLmybwiwzi3MXtpGxREFmHIZ2ty4enauh r&t=142) from Mark at CarAudioFabrication. In that example, the bass frequencies have a bit of a high-pass filter applied so you're not getting the full-fat electrical signal sent to the amplifier.

Cheers :)

[studum]

Are the head unit and amp linked with a low level or high level input/output? Or is it a digital link?

I haven't gotten into it because I told myself I wouldn't mess around with this car more than I had to, but you've got me interested at least...

I just replaced my dash speakers last weekend with some JL's. They're less efficient than the stock ones but man do they ever sound better. I can't believe there's no tweeter at all in the stock setup.

I have to turn the volume knob up a few more notches and had to play with the audio adjustments a hair but so far I'm really happy with the results. Now I'm trying to decide if I'm putting a sub in or not - I'm really trying to convince myself that I don't need it.

What are your plans?

[MikeSafari]

I don't know how they're linked yet; I haven't really started digging into it.

My plans are pretty intense... Dual 8" subs in custom boxes, nice three-way component set up front, hidden amps, total stealth build. It'll kill but it won't look like it.

The thing that's tripping me up right now is what I actually need to tap into the factory signal. I could go with something like a Helix P SIX DSP which has a big ol' amp built in as well, but I'm not sure if it can do enough correction work on the incoming signal or if I need a JL TwK as well.

[McGuyver_3]

The gen 2 bose, the amp did all the work. Putting a better headunit in the system really brought it to life. I would guess that the gen 3 would be the same.

[MikeSafari]

The gen 2 bose, the amp did all the work. Putting a better headunit in the system really brought it to life. I would guess that the gen 3 would be the same.

Yeah but the Gen3 is much more difficult to replace the head unit since it's got the central screen on top of the dash that also controls some vehicle functions. Normally I'd be totally game to put in an upgraded head unit, too, but with new cars it's not that easy anymore :(

[studum]

I'm interested in what you end up finding out as it will help me for where is the best place to tap in to feed a sub amp.

I'd default to front channel for hi-level inputs to an amp (as I don't intend to modify the rest of the system) but from what I've read there's a freq response roll off below 40Hz. Obviously if you're ripping everything out to the level you've said it would be much better to grab a signal before the amp if at all possible - but I'm sure you're absolutely aware of that. Wish I was able to help more.

I know what I'm considering has nothing to do with what you're trying to do specifically, just somewhat related in what we're both looking for.


****After thought. Do you have the tech package with IE LOOP? I'm also wondering how putting an amp in would play with that system or if it will affect it at all.

[MikeSafari]

****After thought. Do you have the tech package with IE LOOP? I'm also wondering how putting an amp in would play with that system or if it will affect it at all.

Thankfully I do not. From what I understand, though, the i-Eloop system makes it much, much more difficult to do any kind of aftermarket electrical work, as simply disconnecting the negative lead is not enough to cut power to the car.

[studum]

Thankfully I do not. From what I understand, though, the i-Eloop system makes it much, much more difficult to do any kind of aftermarket electrical work, as simply disconnecting the negative lead is not enough to cut power to the car.

Annnnnnnd that's the punishment I get for having to have all the goodies - I have I-Eloop... I didn't think about that when buying (because I promised my wife I wasn't touching the car).

Anyhow I'm holding off on the sub for now - may re visit down the road if / when others try and see what happens. I hope you get it to work out for ya.

[McGuyver_3]

Yeah but the Gen3 is much more difficult to replace the head unit since it's got the central screen on top of the dash that also controls some vehicle functions. Normally I'd be totally game to put in an upgraded head unit, too, but with new cars it's not that easy anymore :(

I have dealt with some cars like the gen 3. Usually the infotainment system has its own control unit and the audio unit is separate. I would recommend you go to www.alldatadiy.com and get yourself a subscription for your car. It will give you all the wiring diagrams you are looking for. This may be the missing link you are looking for

[Reddie1337]

I wouldn't be sure about the fronts being the high outputs. They have a 9" woofer in the front door. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170215/0c994f33ac566071307c786f1edff06b.jpg

Sticker says 9" speaker, but I'm pretty sure it's the biggest speaker in the car.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170215/0265d1cd1e2e8bb549bdd37f0bdd9b83.jpg



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[MikeSafari]

I have dealt with some cars like the gen 3. Usually the infotainment system has its own control unit and the audio unit is separate. I would recommend you go to www.alldatadiy.com and get yourself a subscription for your car. It will give you all the wiring diagrams you are looking for. This may be the missing link you are looking for

They don't appear to have anything beyond 2015 models at the moment :(


I wouldn't be sure about the fronts being the high outputs. They have a 9" woofer in the front door.

Sticker says 9" speaker, but I'm pretty sure it's the biggest speaker in the car.

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The fronts I'm referring to are the dash speakers at the left, centre, and right. I'm planning on installing ~8" midbass drivers in the doors, ~3.5" high-midrange in the dash, and regular ~1" tweeters in the sail panels or A-pillars (the sail panels are quite small so I'm not sure if I'll be able to fit them there; if I can, that's where they'll go, but if not, I'll stick 'em in the A-pillar).

[Reddie1337]

They don't appear to have anything beyond 2015 models at the moment :(



The fronts I'm referring to are the dash speakers at the left, centre, and right. I'm planning on installing ~8" midbass drivers in the doors, ~3.5" high-midrange in the dash, and regular ~1" tweeters in the sail panels or A-pillars (the sail panels are quite small so I'm not sure if I'll be able to fit them there; if I can, that's where they'll go, but if not, I'll stick 'em in the A-pillar).

Oh. Then that would be alright. The little panel at the window is what you're talking about? They have a 1" tweeter in there now, but an opening for something bigger.

Looks like it's just shy of 3 1/4"
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170215/f98e0448b755e38370dc17c0378a57a2.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170215/1c28459a0d4f2e90d0bd18eccf5f284f.jpg

You have 3 in the front anyways, you wanted to put another 1" tweeter on both sides? You could just put something better in the panel above, and use the 3.5" in the middle? I believe it's the same size as the side ones though, so the hole is a little smaller than 3.5"

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[McGuyver_3]

They don't appear to have anything beyond 2015 models at the moment

The 04-05 radios had the same wiring, 06-09 they added an additional harness for the screen. The rest stayed the same
The 2010-2012 were identical with exception to the 13 where they had the tom tom 6" screen nav. Again the main connector outputs were the same except for obviously the addition of the nav cables and the steering wheel controls were wired up slightly different. By slightly, I mean 1 wire had to be run to the head unit connector
My guess would be that the 14-16 are also the same. It may be worth a shot.
Or you could try calling a dealer and politely asking the shop foreman to help you out with some wiring diagrams. I have resorted to this before. Worst they can do is say no.

[studum]

Oh. Then that would be alright. The little panel at the window is what you're talking about? They have a 1" tweeter in there now, but an opening for something bigger.

Looks like it's just shy of 3 1/4"

You have 3 in the front anyways, you wanted to put another 1" tweeter on both sides? You could just put something better in the panel above, and use the 3.5" in the middle? I believe it's the same size as the side ones though, so the hole is a little smaller than 3.5"

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The OEM Bose actually doesn't have a tweeter at all, however the non-Bose has a tweeter in the location you have shown.

The Bose has a ~2/2.5" "twiddlers" as they call them in the dash corners and a more standard 3.5" speaker in the center. The mount in all 3 locations will indeed fit a standard 3.5" - I've just replaced my two outboard speakers with a pair of 3.5" JL Audio coaxials to bring out some of the treble I felt was really missing with the stock setup.

What he wants to do is replace the OEM "sub" speakers in the door with a standard mid-bass driver, then put a midrange the OEM location, then add a separate tweeter in the sail panel on the door or the a-pillar beside the stock location for a full 3-way component setup.

His issue is trying to get a clean signal from the head unit for his amps vs one that's been "optimized" for the Bose system.

[Reddie1337]

The OEM Bose actually doesn't have a tweeter at all, however the non-Bose has a tweeter in the location you have shown.

The Bose has a ~2/2.5" "twiddlers" as they call them in the dash corners and a more standard 3.5" speaker in the center. The mount in all 3 locations will indeed fit a standard 3.5" - I've just replaced my two outboard speakers with a pair of 3.5" JL Audio coaxials to bring out some of the treble I felt was really missing with the stock setup.

What he wants to do is replace the OEM "sub" speakers in the door with a standard mid-bass driver, then put a midrange the OEM location, then add a separate tweeter in the sail panel on the door or the a-pillar beside the stock location for a full 3-way component setup.

His issue is trying to get a clean signal from the head unit for his amps vs one that's been "optimized" for the Bose system.

Ah, Well what I have heard from a friend of mine who has the car with Bose and wanted to add a Subwoofer to the trunk, he was having a problem because the signal seemed to be digital down to the Bose amp, and he couldn't find a good enough signal for it.