View Full Version : engine sound and cel codes
higguns
02-26-2017, 12:44 AM
hello,
I recently had my oil pressure light come on while driving. I immediately pulled over and turned the car off. I checked the oil and was down about 2-2.5 liters of oil. Luckily I had a jug in the car that I just bought to do an upcoming oil change. I filled it up and turned the car back on. Car ran, but was making a knocking sound. The engine light has been on since. I drove the car home like a little old lady and parked it in the driveway.
I checked the codes and it is showing p0011, p0012 and p0138. All reference Bank 1 (which if I'm correct would mean cylinder #1??). The car runs like poop and sounds horrible.
Reading online I determined that it likely spun a connecting rod bearing and that it could possibly be fixed. My question is that would these codes show if that was the case? To me it sounds more like the sound is coming from the top end of the engine, but I'm no pro nor did I listen under the car.
Here's a video of the noise and me revving the engine a tad to emphasize the noise a bit.
https://youtu.be/5Kbb-XFbhXM
(https://youtu.be/5Kbb-XFbhXM)
Can anyone help diagnose the noise/issue?
Flagrum_3
02-26-2017, 02:44 AM
Unfortunately that does sound like a rod. I hope I'm wrong.
Could also be your VVT Actuator is stuck.
Don't attempt to drive it further, have it towed to whomever you use regularly.
Wondering why you were down so much oil. When was the last oil-change done?
_3
Clifford
02-26-2017, 02:00 PM
That is down alot of oil, would think you may have hurt a bearing . Are you burning oil or leaking it.
jeff7670
02-26-2017, 04:11 PM
Unfortunately that doesn't sound promising. Perhaps the engine is worth replacing.
morganc
02-26-2017, 06:12 PM
Bank 1 references the whole engine in the case of an inline. If you had a V-block engine, one side is bank 1 and the other is bank 2. If the camshafts aren't actuating properly due to damage, then this will certainly affect the exhaust stream hitting the 02 sensor and hence that code. If the noise is coming from the top of the engine, then consider yourself lucky! Otherwise, new engine time (it'll be easier to drop in a used engine). I'd recommend changing oil brand, using synthetic (if you're not) and being more diligent about checking it in the future. It could be that you've dropped a valve spring or lifter lobe, too. Start by yanking the valve cover and have someone wit expertise inspect it.
hello,
I recently had my oil pressure light come on while driving. I immediately pulled over and turned the car off. I checked the oil and was down about 2-2.5 liters of oil. Luckily I had a jug in the car that I just bought to do an upcoming oil change. I filled it up and turned the car back on. Car ran, but was making a knocking sound. The engine light has been on since. I drove the car home like a little old lady and parked it in the driveway.
I checked the codes and it is showing p0011, p0012 and p0138. All reference Bank 1 (which if I'm correct would mean cylinder #1??). The car runs like poop and sounds horrible.
Reading online I determined that it likely spun a connecting rod bearing and that it could possibly be fixed. My question is that would these codes show if that was the case? To me it sounds more like the sound is coming from the top end of the engine, but I'm no pro nor did I listen under the car.
Here's a video of the noise and me revving the engine a tad to emphasize the noise a bit.
https://youtu.be/5Kbb-XFbhXM
(https://youtu.be/5Kbb-XFbhXM)
Can anyone help diagnose the noise/issue?
higguns
03-04-2017, 12:48 AM
No burning or leaking. I've been battling mysterious oil consumption for over a year. I've read up about it and others seem to have had the same thing with their 3s.
I change the oil regularly at 7,000km and monitor it pretty well (well up until this point anyways.
Clifford
03-04-2017, 01:49 PM
No burning or leaking. I've been battling mysterious oil consumption for over a year. I've read up about it and others seem to have had the same thing with their 3s.
I change the oil regularly at 7,000km and monitor it pretty well (well up until this point anyways.
Well if its not leaking it must be getting burnt somehow ,so it is either coming from around the valve seals or the oil control rings have lost their tension. I would bet it is the top end of the motor that has let you down.
Clifford
03-04-2017, 01:56 PM
Looking over the codes you listed its all about the cam timing. With the oil usage I would consider more of mechanical then electrical. Usually VVT is run off of hydraulic pressure [Engine oil] so it all sort of goes together no power running like crap means the cams aren't doing what they should be due to low oil pressure .
Flagrum_3
03-05-2017, 05:44 PM
higguns Did you get it checked out?
The 'mysterious oil loss' could possibly be due to a bad PCV valve.
_3
Clifford
03-05-2017, 07:06 PM
higguns Did you get it checked out?
The 'mysterious oil loss' could possibly be due to a bad PCV valve.
_3
If it is pcv valve then the engine is burning it and it should show up as fouled plugs or as my Buick does an oil sludge in the intake tube
morganc
03-06-2017, 11:49 PM
I was usually down about 1L over 6000kms. I replaced the PCV and I now don't lose very much oil over 8,000.
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