Cons of the Mazda3

[bunchi]

So, two cons then Bunchi.

One, our cars are too sexy and too easy to break into.
Two, the heated seats can cause, ummmmmm, errrrrrrr, 'issues'. :blush Yes, I still remember. :chuckle

LOL!!!! I guess that's gonna linger on eh? hahaha oh no winter's around the corner.... am gonna... ah nevermind.... I know you'll bring it up again sometime later hahahaha

[Zoom Zoom Boy]

LOL!!!! I guess that's gonna linger on eh? hahaha oh no winter's around the corner.... am gonna... ah nevermind.... I know you'll bring it up again sometime later hahahaha

'Linger' might not have been the best choice of words... LOL

Yah, you know I probably will. Was one of the all-time TM3 moments for sure. :chuckle

[Ex-Rolla]

Only con i can think of for the 2010 is that i don't have anywhere to put loose change... I used the ashtray in my 05 :(

[kramr]

Only con i can think of for the 2010 is that i don't have anywhere to put loose change... I used the ashtray in my 05 :(

I have about $10 in change in the tray of the centre consol. Yeah, pain in the a** to flip open, grab some change and close it again but it works. Used the ashtray in my old car!!

[Chester_Lampwick]

Only con i can think of for the 2010 is that i don't have anywhere to put loose change... I used the ashtray in my 05 :(

How about that cubbyhole on the dash to the left of the steering wheel? or the one with the hinged door just forward of the shifter?

No USB port for the stereo is the biggest con I can think of. Don't car for the auto-dimming mirror much.

[Ex-Rolla]

I have about $10 in change in the tray of the centre consol. Yeah, pain in the a** to flip open, grab some change and close it again but it works. Used the ashtray in my old car!!

That's what i'm using now, and agree, it's a small annoyance.


How about that cubbyhole on the dash to the left of the steering wheel? or the one with the hinged door just forward of the shifter?

No USB port for the stereo is the biggest con I can think of. Don't car for the auto-dimming mirror much.

Unfortunately there is a 12v socket in the hinged door and the cubbyhole doesn't seem like it'll hold the change properly...

Considering this is my only "con", This car is fantastic!!!

[nymadgen]

Oops! Stupid iphone hahah Lamborghini

I have the same idea with you. Great! Thanks for sharing. :cool:
Glad to hear you're using this: I plan to keep it much more aggressively up-to-date than has been the case in the past, but don't hesitate to let me know if you find errors or need clarifications.

[fatsock]

I have about $10 in change in the tray of the centre consol. Yeah, pain in the a** to flip open, grab some change and close it again but it works. Used the ashtray in my old car!!

Weird b/c my Mazda came with a free wallet...:chuckle

[bunchi]

Weird b/c my Mazda came with a free wallet...:chuckle

well.. my mazda burned my wallet lol

[Bomber-Stud]

The oil dipstick on the 2006-2009 models is a pain in the rearend to read. :complain The 2004-2005 are much easier to read. I wonder what the 2010 looks like....

..2010 dipstick is a pain the rearend to read... the people who designed this are freakin dipsticks! I have no idea if my oil needs to be topped up or not!:flaming WTF!

[Bean]

Now that my car has 78,000 KM, it hesitates terribly and I have to floor it to have it keep up with the traffic. Glad we are trading it in soon.

[3Remix]

My scuff panels have a few MAJOR scratches, down to the metal, nothing some touch up paint and scuff plates won't fix, but goes to show how thin the paint is

[Bomber-Stud]

My scuff panels have a few MAJOR scratches, down to the metal, nothing some touch up paint and scuff plates won't fix, but goes to show how thin the paint is

im looking for a nice set of NON-LED scuff plates and no one seems to carry them! wtf

[blankets3]

No Rwd
No AWD
No Turbo

[3Remix]

Yea, same

Looking for a pair of OEM looking plates. Need to really protect that hotspot quickly

Try eBay, I saw a few there. Was considering those, but don't want to pay for shipping and duties.


im looking for a nice set of NON-LED scuff plates and no one seems to carry them! wtf

[Bomber-Stud]

Yea, same

Looking for a pair of OEM looking plates. Need to really protect that hotspot quickly

Try eBay, I saw a few there. Was considering those, but don't want to pay for shipping and duties.

tried eBay... only found the LED ones. I think I want a nice looking set of non-LEDs

[bman13]

One major con not sure if mentioned is a lot of other cars on the road feel jealous and end up in my rear view...

[Bomber-Stud]

One major con not sure if mentioned is a lot of other cars on the road feel jealous and end up in my rear view...

...sssssnap! :headbang

[Bean]

Lol

[Iceman_F1]

Not even the highest trim level of the Mazda3 has a built-in compass by default...

That's a con?

:loco

[Bomber-Stud]

That's a con?

:loco


Not even the highest trim level of the Mazda3 has a built-in compass by default...

....cant you just find north without a compass?

[Zoom Zoom Boy]

Sure. It's just nice to have for curiosity sake and for the simplicity of it. Okay, so it's not so much a con as it is a "it would be nice to have" feature. ;)

I'm sure there is a gay iphone app for that...failing this, buy a boat instead. They all have compasses as standard equipment.

As for scuff plates/door sills, PartsPlaza carries both the LED and non LED aluminium ones.

http://www.partplaza.net/Mazda/Mazda3-Mazdaspeed3-c53/

[Gizzmo_jr]

Compass is offered as an accessory item. I think the Mazda (at all trim levels) has a fantastic standard feature list.
It alone sold me over at the time when I was car shopping.

[Bean]

I dont know of any other cars that have auto headlights and rain sensing wipers in that price range. Kind of wish the rain sensing wipers were regular variable intermittent wipers instead

[VWisTROUBLE]

+1...i told a guy i work with i had rain sensing wipers in my car and he looked like he was gonna cry...lol...thats what he gets for buying a jetta...lmfao


I dont know of any other cars that have auto headlights and rain sensing wipers in that price range. Kind of wish the rain sensing wipers were regular variable intermittent wipers instead

[Bean]

LOL

Got the newest Lemonaide guide and Phil Edmonston dont like VW at all ;)

[Deecha1981]

Just picked up my 2010 GS Sport last week and I love it so far! A couple of minor annoyances, however:

1) No dead pedal! I'm glad I have a standard transmission (i.e. more left foot on the clutch), but still I'm afraid the carpet will fray/wear prematurely
2) Gauge backlight is a little dim on the GS trim level
3) No engine temperature guage! Really would help on those cold mornings to indicate whether it's time to turn on the heating, or time to raise the RPM's
4) Window switch access is somewhat blocked by the door handle


Otherwise, I'm elated at my purchase! It's smooth, quick, comfortable yet firm when needed.

[r4BBiT]

Just picked up my 2010 GS Sport last week and I love it so far! A couple of minor annoyances, however:

1) No dead pedal! I'm glad I have a standard transmission (i.e. more left foot on the clutch), but still I'm afraid the carpet will fray/wear prematurely
2) Gauge backlight is a little dim on the GS trim level
3) No engine temperature guage! Really would help on those cold mornings to indicate whether it's time to turn on the heating, or time to raise the RPM's
4) Window switch access is somewhat blocked by the door handle

Otherwise, I'm elated at my purchase! It's smooth, quick, comfortable yet firm when needed.

x2, for 1 and 3, not having temp gauge and deadl pedal really sucks...since the winter started i stopped putting my left foot where the dead pedal would be and just started putting my food on the floor (stupid salt)

[Mr Wilson]

Why oh why (in the 08.5 at least) are the cupholders located right where my arm needs to be to shift? I like my venti mocha caramel hazlenut white-chocolate corretto with wip-cream and chocolate shavings and it spills everywhere.

Otherwise (again on the 08.5) agree with the awful hatch lever location. That said I'm coming from a rusty 02' P5 to an 08.5 Sport GT and couldn't be happier.

[DualSoul]

^ +1. I notice I unconsciously hold my arm in a crooked manner while shifting when something is in the cup holder.

[Iceman_F1]

Why oh why (in the 08.5 at least) are the cupholders located right where my arm needs to be to shift? I like my venti mocha caramel hazlenut white-chocolate corretto with wip-cream and chocolate shavings and it spills everywhere.

Otherwise (again on the 08.5) agree with the awful hatch lever location. That said I'm coming from a rusty 02' P5 to an 08.5 Sport GT and couldn't be happier.

The cup holder location and the hatch lever location is unchanged from 04 to 09. But judging by DualSoul's post, it seems it's even the same in the 2010's.

Then again, neither of those really bothers me. I drive auto but even then, rarely do I have anything in those cup holders.

[Avecail]

I totally agree with Deecha1981 on point #4. Just got my 2010 GT on Monday and already put the PRM intake on. I'll have to drive it a bit more to see if there are any points to add.

[MikeyGT]

Just picked up my 2010 GS Sport last week and I love it so far! A couple of minor annoyances, however:

1) No dead pedal! I'm glad I have a standard transmission (i.e. more left foot on the clutch), but still I'm afraid the carpet will fray/wear prematurely
2) Gauge backlight is a little dim on the GS trim level
3) No engine temperature guage! Really would help on those cold mornings to indicate whether it's time to turn on the heating, or time to raise the RPM's
4) Window switch access is somewhat blocked by the door handle


Otherwise, I'm elated at my purchase! It's smooth, quick, comfortable yet firm when needed.

They still don't have a dead pedal on the 2010s? or do they have it on the GTs?

[DualSoul]

^ Not on the GTs either.

[kimro]

Just picked up my 2010 GS Sport last week and I love it so far! A couple of minor annoyances, however:

1) No dead pedal! I'm glad I have a standard transmission (i.e. more left foot on the clutch), but still I'm afraid the carpet will fray/wear prematurely
2) Gauge backlight is a little dim on the GS trim level
3) No engine temperature guage! Really would help on those cold mornings to indicate whether it's time to turn on the heating, or time to raise the RPM's
4) Window switch access is somewhat blocked by the door handle


Otherwise, I'm elated at my purchase! It's smooth, quick, comfortable yet firm when needed.

Having no temp gauge is definitely weird... I was staring at my gauges for a while when I first realized it.

[m_bisson]

how do you know if the car is overheating?

[r4BBiT]

there is light that would indicate when the car overheats :D and i guess in the winter i just look where rpms are at idle to see how warmed up the car is

[Bean]

Huh???

[Impressive]

Sorry to sound like a newb here, but what exactly is a dead pedal? is it not that thing beside the clutch that you rest your foot on when you aren't using it? My father has a Mazda3 hatch and his definitely has one of those...
I find that resting area for your foot to be useless anyways...I used it when I drove up to Montreal for new years & my foot was so stiff and sore from resting like that from Toronto-Kingston that I could barely get out of my car on my own power during our pit-stop at Timmies.

[Elusivellama]

The dead pedal is a metal, plastic or rubberized plate over the surface of that foot rest beside the clutch. It's bare carpet right now, so it will easily soak up the dirt and water as if it were unprotected.

[Deecha1981]

Another "annoyance" rather than a problem I've come across with respect to my 2010 Mazda 3 sport GS (and I also had this annoyance with my 2002 Protege) is when filling the gas tank, the pump automatically stops way before the tank is full (you know, the pump handle clicks off when it senses the tank is full -- how it does that, I still don't know!)

My dealer told me not to fill the tank all the way to the top with the 2010. So, I followed his advice, and was getting a measly 450 KM per tank. This weekend, I kept filling until I could see the gas level, and got an extra 10 litres from when it initially stopped! 600 KM + now per tank.

Again, not a problem, but annoying that you have to keep filling beyond the auto shut off.

[MistaChin]

Regarding cupholders, I usually keep my drinks in the cup holder in the door lol

[Jumbyfighter]

The way that the tank was built is to respond to the pump with reverse pressure. Essentially when there is enough back pressure from within the tank to the pump, it shuts off. I have a 2008.5 ( such a silly year thing, but the accessories rock!), and if I accept when it says it's full, then I'm out a few litres too. In the end though a little less in the tank when 'full' may help to relieve extra pressure on your fuel sensor and your fuel pump. Just a thought.

[Flunk]

Regarding the 2010 Hatch lever, there is not a problem with it because it doesn't have one at all. The hatch is unlocked by the power door locks and has an electric popper button on it. The cup holder is still in the same basic place as the 2008.5. Doesn't matter to me though, mine's an auto.

On another issue the road noise is quite loud in the 3, it's not going to kill me but I think it might annoy a older driver or someone more interesting in comfort than handling. I also miss the dead pedal, even the 1996 Ford Aerostar my old man used to own had one of those.

[EChid]

On another issue the road noise is quite loud in the 3, it's not going to kill me but I think it might annoy a older driver or someone more interesting in comfort than handling.
Good observation, that is precisely why I am saving up for a new (or different) car. The handling is great, but at too great a cost to the ride/noise.

[active3s]

hmmm......came in to defend the 3..but I got puzzled...didnt know is this was for the 2.0/2.3 version or the new one....

[Iceman_F1]

hmmm......came in to defend the 3..but I got puzzled...didnt know is this was for the 2.0/2.3 version or the new one....

All of the above. Basically all Mazda3's...first gen (04-09) and second gen (2010+)

[Ogata]

Good observation, that is precisely why I am saving up for a new (or different) car. The handling is great, but at too great a cost to the ride/noise.

What type of noise? Idling / while driving? It could be related to the tires you have as well that could relate to the noise.

[kramr]

Dead Pedal would be nice. Still love the car, 2010 GS

[Deecha1981]

Another thing I have noticed is that it is often difficult to engage the reverse gear on the 6 spd manual. Sometimes, it takes a lot of force to push down the knob to get it into position. Anyone else notice this?

[liquidzyklon]

Another thing I have noticed is that it is often difficult to engage the reverse gear on the 6 spd manual. Sometimes, it takes a lot of force to push down the knob to get it into position. Anyone else notice this?I remember reading that the Mazda3 don't have syncros on the reverse gears so it's harder to shift into that. Try double clutching.

[seelsy]

only real thing ive noticed that bothers me are the break pads, squeek really loudly when reversing in the morning and i park in the garage. Never happened like that on my civic or anything, so the factory pads are a little on the cheap side, but a minor squeak for the time it takes to reverse out of the driveway isnt too bad, and ofcourse the lack of a dead pedal, but other than those ive loved it so far :)

[mogul_pro]

Things that bother me about my 2006 Mazda3:
-Replaced trans. (under waranty) after only 40,000km and over a dozen visits to st. catharines mazda saying nothing was wrong.
-Blown engine at around 55,000km (afterlong battle (thread researchable) not covered under waranty!) (Car not even driven hard, 91,000km on original brakes and still strong.)
-MAF sencor wire 'broke' in half by itself in the cold. No idea how that would happen.

I guess other than that its decent. Soon to be Winter Beater status come late spring of this year though.

[m_bisson]

Another thing I have noticed is that it is often difficult to engage the reverse gear on the 6 spd manual. Sometimes, it takes a lot of force to push down the knob to get it into position. Anyone else notice this?

this happens on a LOT of cars... it's just a thing you gotta deal with if you drive stick. NEVER EVER "force" it.... if shifting into neutral doesn't work, put it in first and just roll forward 1/2 an inch then you'll be fine.

[Bean]

Almost 82,000 k and MANY rattles inside. Annoying and the stupid shelf in the back is really a booger too. This is the shelf on the sedan by the way.

[Woodman316]

this happens on a LOT of cars... it's just a thing you gotta deal with if you drive stick. NEVER EVER "force" it.... if shifting into neutral doesn't work, put it in first and just roll forward 1/2 an inch then you'll be fine.

Yes thats it. Neutral, clutch out, clutch back in and try engaging reverse again. You see the forward speeds use a synchronizer reverse doesn't. I have a AM License and drove tractor trailers, 21 speeds, 18 speed, double clutch, spin up the gears in neutral to down shift smoothly, no grinding. I got so sick of shifting my next car was an automatic, driving my car was like no work sooo easy. Anyway haven't driven a tractor in years and all my cars have been manuals ever since, and loving it.

[The Johal]

Biggest CON of a mazda3

RUST!! im started to see little orange dots everywhere :(

[thanu31]

What you are referring to is rail dust. Its really noticeable with white cars, a simple claybar will remove the contaminants

[m3zoomzoom]

What you are referring to is rail dust. Its really noticeable with white cars, a simple claybar will remove the contaminants

or alot of unfilled paint chips? just about anything chips the thin paint on these cars...

[RetroLite]

The worst thing about the mazda3 is the lazy persons clutch, as well as the engage point is horrible on them. I need to feel the pedal pushing back on my foot.

[trickyho]

For me, the sensor range on the smart key is way too short. I set mine to autolock, and when I shut the Driver door, and walk around the front to the passenger door, it locks. I have to press myself up against the bumper for that not to happen...Silly.

[trickyho]

The worst thing about the mazda3 is the lazy persons clutch, as well as the engage point is horrible on them. I need to feel the pedal pushing back on my foot.

Are you sure a lazy mans clutch is a con? I think it's a blessing in stop and go traffic. Keeps you from getting one over-developed leg.

[Mr Wilson]

Whats with the brake dust? I thought my 08.5 was bad, the 10' isn't a week old and it looks like its driven the 24 of Le Mans......

[Bomber-Stud]

so having read some of these "cons" to the 3...... would you buy a civic or corolla instead next time?

[Mr Wilson]

Personally, never. Everycar has some cons and most associated with the 3 are rather small inconveniences.........if there were a Pros of the Mazda3 thread.....it'd be WAY longer than 13 pages.

[m_bisson]

Whats with the brake dust? I thought my 08.5 was bad, the 10' isn't a week old and it looks like its driven the 24 of Le Mans......

rofl! same with mine. Could be just cuz the pads are brand new? I dunno....

[The Johal]

so having read some of these "cons" to the 3...... would you buy a civic or corolla instead next time?

Never! i agree with Mr Wilson. every car has its down falls but with the 3, they seem more like inconveniences then any thing else!

[mogul_pro]

so having read some of these "cons" to the 3...... would you buy a civic or corolla instead next time?


I would buy a better car now.. but if I could turn back time I would have gotten a civic.

[Noisy Crow]

I remember reading that the Mazda3 don't have syncros on the reverse gears so it's harder to shift into that. Try double clutching.

Yup. If it won't go into gear you need to give the mechanism a spin to let the gears line up.

[Bean]

Pluses. Still have original brakes but not for much longer. Car is at 85 K

Negatives. TOO many to list But most problematic are stupid Auto wipers, rattles all over the place, not the best gas mileage, hesitating and tranny issues that are starting to annoy me. Thank heavens lease is up soon

[shu5892001]

if audi is king of lights, then mazda is king of sound...

[trademark83]

Will never buy a Mazda again.
Should have bought a Honda.

[Chester_Lampwick]

Will never buy a Mazda again.
Should have bought a Honda.

I don't mind that you have a negative regard of the Mazda3, but your post offers nothing in terms of meaningful information. Do you mind listing your main complaints about the Mazda3?

[trademark83]

too many to name.

In winter time, the car shuts off when driving at low rev.
Squeeks EVERYWHERE..seatbelts, rear suspension.
Premature front bearing wear
poor fuel economy
Hissing noise from power steering.

I have a 07 Mazda 3 GS. You ask me your question as if i dont actually own a mazda 3.

[Chester_Lampwick]

I have a 07 Mazda 3 GS. You ask me your question as if i dont actually own a mazda 3.

No I didn't. You volunteered your opinion. Just that you didn't offer any reasons, such as to make a useful conversation. I still don't think you understand the thread topic. This is cons of The Mazda3, not your specific Mazda3. Not everybody who has a Mazda3 has the problems you experience.

For instance, if the seats don't fold completely flat. Then we'd all have that "con".

[vip3r87]

a con for me, is that the trunk of the hatch can't fit 2 beer cases (height wise) with the privacy cover on it.

I haven;t tested with a new full case, but 2 empty cases wont fit without a bunch of force, then it pops off at the rear. Just my little con I found :P

To solve that? Take the cover off, not a big deal but thought I would add something

[aZuMi]

For the 2010's, I can't put my golf bag horizontally on the trunk. I always have to put it diagonally or put down my seats..

Is this the same with the previous gen?

[bman13]

One major con is that I have to slow down when I am being followed to get to a destination...zoom zoom ;)

[Elusivellama]

For the 07 model (GT) I don't like how the buttons for the A/C, recycled air and defrost are in that small slot beneath the HVAC dials, especially how they're so smooth and difficult to tell apart without taking my eyes off the road to look at the buttons. Sometimes I want recycled air when I'm driving through dusty areas, but I don't want to turn the A/C on, and I often end up hitting both because I don't want to take my eyes off the road.

[sarujo]

Minor annoyances (minor cons) re my 2010 Sport GX:
- Missing engine temperature gauge (only a dash light that comes on when things are getting too hot)
- Mazda removed the rear seat fold down cupholders w/ seat rest and also the exhaust tip! (vehicles made after Nov 2009 apparently)

[jaymurr]

- Missing engine temperature gauge (only a dash light that comes on when things are getting too hot)

This.

Also, the compartment where the 12V plug is located is absolutely useless, nothing will fit there. I've actually contemplated putting a temp gauge in there.

[sarujo]

What about putting a Scangauge2 instead of just a dedicated temp gauge?

Where's the illumination of the driver's windows, locks and power mirror controls?? Not the end of the world, but man!


This.

Also, the compartment where the 12V plug is located is absolutely useless, nothing will fit there. I've actually contemplated putting a temp gauge in there.

[rbart4506]

No I didn't. You volunteered your opinion. Just that you didn't offer any reasons, such as to make a useful conversation. I still don't think you understand the thread topic. This is cons of The Mazda3, not your specific Mazda3. Not everybody who has a Mazda3 has the problems you experience.

For instance, if the seats don't fold completely flat. Then we'd all have that "con".

I'll con that one :)

Makes putting my bikes in the back a little bit more difficult....Still there's enough rom to fit two road bikes in the back standing vertically with only the front wheels and seat post removed....Not too bad really...

[djdusk]

one major con I find with my 2006 GS model is the cheap feeling door panels. If I put my old sound system I had in my last car in this Mazda 3, I have a feeling everything would just vibrate off.

[mathemagician]

Yes thats it. Neutral, clutch out, clutch back in and try engaging reverse again. You see the forward speeds use a synchronizer reverse doesn't. I have a AM License and drove tractor trailers, 21 speeds, 18 speed, double clutch, spin up the gears in neutral to down shift smoothly, no grinding. I got so sick of shifting my next car was an automatic, driving my car was like no work sooo easy. Anyway haven't driven a tractor in years and all my cars have been manuals ever since, and loving it.

my protege was the same way.. u just have to play in neutral a bit and then attempt reverse again.. but if you force it or slip it half way in and then clutch out.. you will not like the sound u hear lol

[billd80]

"Where's the illumination of the driver's windows, locks and power mirror controls?? Not the end of the world, but man!"
^+1 , drives me a lillt nuts actually! Also the missing temp guage are my issues so far with the 2010.

[Thrizzl3]

everyone has one now..when you try to look for your vehicle in a parking lot you can never figure out which one it is...theres 3 or 4 of the same colour car in a single row..wtf?

[sarujo]

I don't have that problem with my celestial blue! Maybe you should try a less bland/common colour next time! :chuckle :chuckle


everyone has one now..when you try to look for your vehicle in a parking lot you can never figure out which one it is...theres 3 or 4 of the same colour car in a single row..wtf?

[krimsalt]

haha reading this article had reminded me that Mazda3 is an entry level economy car (minus economic on gas LOL)

Im happy there is no leather in my 2007, even though it is a GT model. TBH, leather gets cold and cracks in the cold winter, and gets too hot and sticky in the summer causing the interior to bake. And if you think the interior is cheap quality plastic, lol, go sit in the new chevy cruze and feel the cheap dollarstore plastic it has inside it.

And, as much as it would be good to have a trunk/hatch release on the keychain, i cant remember a time i needed to open the back without having to access it. But like i said, its more my opinion

TRUE CONS would be, for its size, it's not very good on gas. It is the 3rd worst vehicle on gas of anything i've owned. It isnt very good on preserving tire tread (so i've heard), and apparently it also likes prematurely wearing out wheel bearings, my rear two need replacing and it hasnt even made 100,000km yet.

Just for fun here is the list of fuel economy on my vehicles
1990 Mazda Protege323, 5spd MT, avg 6.5L/100km
1993 Nissan Altima, 5spd MT, avg 7.5L/100km
2007 Mazda 3, 5spd MT, avg 9.5L/100km
1992 Plymouth Acclaim, 3spd AT, avg 11.5L/100km
1997 Dodge Caravan, 3spd AT, avg 30L/100km (That's Chrysler quality lol)

[Bomber-Stud]

haha reading this article had reminded me that Mazda3 is an entry level economy car (minus economic on gas LOL)

Just for fun here is the list of fuel economy on my vehicles
1990 Mazda Protege323, 5spd MT, avg 6.5L/100km
1993 Nissan Altima, 5spd MT, avg 7.5L/100km
2007 Mazda 3, 5spd MT, avg 9.5L/100km
1992 Plymouth Acclaim, 3spd AT, avg 11.5L/100km
1997 Dodge Caravan, 3spd AT, avg 30L/100km (That's Chrysler quality lol)

My dad gets the same mileage I get in my 2010 3 GX as he gets in a 2006 Toyota Highlander (non-hybrid). Lol

[homieG]

^ Hopefully the gas comsumption complaints will be gone with their new skyactiv technology.

I do have to say though, when people talk about the build quality of Mazda's, the competition is 10 times worse! I have looked at ALL the competitors and the materials they use in their cars is pure garbage. All interiors are plastic and nasty to touch. ALL handle like crap due to no independant rear suspension. I was actually at the skyactiv training a couple of days ago and we tested the civic, elantra, corolla (THE WORST), cruze, jetta against the 3. Did a skid pad test, pot holes test. ALL the cars were terrible at the pot hole test but Mazda definitely had the upper hand in ALL the tests and you can actually feel the difference.

I think everyone made the right choice on this forum when they picked the 3 over the competiton. I really wish dealerships had a closed course on site for clients to test out the Mazda's and the competition. Would be the easiest way to convince a person to buy a Mazda. Obviously i am not saying Mazda is the best car company out there, but they are definitely the best when it comes to Honda, Toyota and the other similar brands.

[krimsalt]

^ Hopefully the gas comsumption complaints will be gone with their new skyactiv technology.

I do have to say though, when people talk about the build quality of Mazda's, the competition is 10 times worse! I have looked at ALL the competitors and the materials they use in their cars is pure garbage. All interiors are plastic and nasty to touch. ALL handle like crap due to no independant rear suspension. I was actually at the skyactiv training a couple of days ago and we tested the civic, elantra, corolla (THE WORST), cruze, jetta against the 3. Did a skid pad test, pot holes test. ALL the cars were terrible at the pot hole test but Mazda definitely had the upper hand in ALL the tests and you can actually feel the difference.
.

definately, when i was in the cruze, it was absolute garbage quality

[TheAnswer_03]

- Thin paint. I seem to be getting rock chips on the hood every week even though I've driven less than 1,500km in total.

- Shifting quality & shift points in the 5-Speed A/T. Rough 1st to 2nd shift when cold, car has a subtle jolt when it downshifts 5th to 4th. When I slow down to about a few km/h, car stays in 3rd gear unless I'm at a complete stop. Be nicer if it downshifted to at least 2nd for better acceleration. A lot of time too the transmission upshifts too soon (50km/h I should be at 4th gear at most not 5th).

- Bad gas mileage. But then again I'm using conventional oil, I'll switch to full synthetic next time which I hope helps along with changing the spark plugs.

- Tight steering and rough ride. In contrast, this video shows a 2010 Mazda 3 GT with smooth, easy steering http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sRZRuXkrIeQ&feature=channel_video_title

- Car squeeks in the interior somewhere in cold weather.

- Gurgling sound coming from the engine passenger side when coasting at a constant speed less than 2000 RPMs or driving uphill. This is the biggest annoyance overall.

I plan to get everything serviced next Spring which I hope will eliminate or at least minimize these issues. I'm still willing to put up with all this because I love the exterior and interior design :D

[sip]

At least, the competitors are not rust buckets like Mazda. How conveniently people forget about Mazda's rust problem. How many years Mazda had it fix it? Did it do anything about it?

[Akiba48]

Minor annoyances (minor cons) re my 2010 Sport GX:
- Missing engine temperature gauge (only a dash light that comes on when things are getting too hot)
- Mazda removed the rear seat fold down cupholders w/ seat rest and also the exhaust tip! (vehicles made after Nov 2009 apparently)

+1
When I first got the car, I was wondering if it was hidden somewhere on the screen, etc.
But the whole point of the smiley face look is to increase cooling...so I don't think this is going to be a big problem
I don't really mind the cupholders part...
The exhaust tip irks me the most though, when I see a Sport GX with one, I keep thinking that Markham Mazda ripped me off LOL

My cons:
- gas...the difference between this and a 3.3L V6 Dodge Caravan is probably $10 in savings per fill-up...which is kinda sad IMO
- Needs auto unlock...Seriously, the current gen of Toyotas...whenever it's shifted back to Park, it automatically unlocks...this, on the other hand, if you don't unlock it...it feels like you're about to snap the door handle while opening.
- 2011 has traction control ,dynamic stability control, alloy rims........but doesn't really matter

[113GT]

i dont really get how some of you are getting the same mileage as some bigger SUV's with the smaller 2.0 engine. I have a 2.5 and i am avg 7.8l/100km and thats 60/40 highway/city.

[Astig02]

i dont really get how some of you are getting the same mileage as some bigger SUV's with the smaller 2.0 engine. I have a 2.5 and i am avg 7.8l/100km and thats 60/40 highway/city.

That is awesome.. good for you.. I have same car but my car displays 13.5~14.5L/100km.
It got me thinking that there is something wrong with my car.

Tire pressure are good. Driving habits are good i believe. Very easy on everything -acceleration and braking. Barely use A/C too.

I wonder how you get such an incredible fuel mileage...

Maybe, i'll invite someone to test drive my car to maybe verify that maybe i'm really bad on driving it OR maybe there is really something wrong with my car.

[Strongjag]

Dude, 13/14 is really high. I have an 06 GT mind you, but I get 10ish on primarily city driving.

[Mr Wilson]

Asting02, that's off of your car's display correct? Don't go by that, even when I have my OBD reader in with mileage gauge on it they show differing numbers. Fill the car until the pump clicks and keep track of mileage. When you fill up the next time make a note of the mileage and how much fuel you've put in. Base mileage off that (use fuelly.com).......I don't even get 14.5L when pushing the Speed and our GX is averaging 7.8 L/100km.

[Enjoi]

on 2010 M3`s and up...Squeeze the Vent on driver side or passenger side...It`s not plastic, its nice and squishy...lol...

[Hoodzy]

-Fuel Mileage Information should be displayed on the gauges
-Fuel Mileage Info is shown or clock is shown can't have both
-Rear Floor Mats don't fit properly
-Thin Paint
-No MP3 CD player until 2008.5
-No dead pedal
-Would be nice if the upper part of the seat could heat up for my sore back :P
-Lumbar adjustment needs to be lower

[Kiyomi]

That is awesome.. good for you.. I have same car but my car displays 13.5~14.5L/100km.
It got me thinking that there is something wrong with my car.

Tire pressure are good. Driving habits are good i believe. Very easy on everything -acceleration and braking. Barely use A/C too.

I wonder how you get such an incredible fuel mileage...

Maybe, i'll invite someone to test drive my car to maybe verify that maybe i'm really bad on driving it OR maybe there is really something wrong with my car.

what the hell. how are you getting 13-15l/100km. that is nuts. i drive pretty hard with full bolt-ons and i get around 10.5l/100km. something is def wrong unless the display is not accurate.

[Astig02]

Asting02, that's off of your car's display correct? Don't go by that, even when I have my OBD reader in with mileage gauge on it they show differing numbers. Fill the car until the pump clicks and keep track of mileage. When you fill up the next time make a note of the mileage and how much fuel you've put in. Base mileage off that (use fuelly.com).......I don't even get 14.5L when pushing the Speed and our GX is averaging 7.8 L/100km.


what the hell. how are you getting 13-15l/100km. that is nuts. i drive pretty hard with full bolt-ons and i get around 10.5l/100km. something is def wrong unless the display is not accurate.

I admit i read it off my dash display (not so accurate). I signed up for "Fuelly" couple of weeks ago have a much better estimate on my mileage.. so far the average was 12L/100k (95% city). Is that normal then. Again, i dont floor the gas or the brakes... i'm almost very careful on the both pedals to save some gas (revs around 2k to 3k max)...

[Kiyomi]

I admit i read it off my dash display (not so accurate). I signed up for "Fuelly" couple of weeks ago have a much better estimate on my mileage.. so far the average was 12L/100k (95% city). Is that normal then. Again, i dont floor the gas or the brakes... i'm almost very careful on the both pedals to save some gas (revs around 2k to 3k max)...

that is a bit better, but still if its att and stock, should be getting less than 11, even with city.

[Astig02]

that is a bit better, but still if its att and stock, should be getting less than 11, even with city.

I know its has a 2.5 engine but i believe it was rated 10.2l/100km in the city. I should at least get something closer to that. Most of the members say its normal since i'm still breaking it in (1, 400KM), but i'm a bit skeptical.
I'm not sure if i should asks the my dealer to check it.. i got he car for almost a month now.

[Kiyomi]

I know its has a 2.5 engine but i believe it was rated 10.2l/100km in the city. I should at least get something closer to that. Most of the members say its normal since i'm still breaking it in (1, 400KM), but i'm a bit skeptical.
I'm not sure if i should asks the my dealer to check it.. i got he car for almost a month now.

if its brand new, then i wouldnt worry too much, make sure u change the oil early, as its important for the first change, others may say different. wuts an oil change cost compared to buying a new engine down the road. nyway, after another thousand or so, and changed oil, should go down some more. also dont redline it, but go up to 5,000 rpm once in a while to help it break in better.

[Astig02]

if its brand new, then i wouldnt worry too much, make sure u change the oil early, as its important for the first change, others may say different. wuts an oil change cost compared to buying a new engine down the road. nyway, after another thousand or so, and changed oil, should go down some more. also dont redline it, but go up to 5,000 rpm once in a while to help it break in better.

I did my first oil change as many members recommended few days ago at my dealer (0w-20 ->synthetic i believe). 5k rev?? haha.. i dont even reach 4k rev... hmmm, some spirited driving is needed then.. maybe i'm being to easy on it and what's to be tested... just sayin'

[Kiyomi]

I did my first oil change as many members recommended few days ago at my dealer (0w-20 ->synthetic i believe). 5k rev?? haha.. i dont even reach 4k rev... hmmm, some spirited driving is needed then.. maybe i'm being to easy on it and what's to be tested... just sayin'

haha :D, i would try 5w-20 or 5w-30. plus if u are already at synthetic, why not go with like amsoil or royal purple. personally, use 5w-30 rp. honestly going to 4k rev even is not going to hurt the engine if you do it once in a while.

back on topic so that no one gets angry, a con is fuel mileage, but then where would your zoom zoom be? :D

[Astig02]

haha :D, i would try 5w-20 or 5w-30. plus if u are already at synthetic, why not go with like amsoil or royal purple. personally, use 5w-30 rp. honestly going to 4k rev even is not going to hurt the engine if you do it once in a while.

back on topic so that no one gets angry, a con is fuel mileage, but then where would your zoom zoom be? :D

the recommended factory oil is 0w-20.

I guess Mazda is rectifying this fuel econ issue with their new SKYACTIVE engine without compromising the ZOOM ZOOM factor..
Oh if the diesel comes out in 2013 its gonna be awesooome!! Good Fuel and more zoom zoom..

[rzapata]

Wow, I've been reading a lot of posts about the gen 2 and how the mileage isn't that great. But getting ~12L/100km is kind off in the darker side... I do city driving 90% of the time and the worst I got is 11.7 L/100km (100% city with heater on a few times). I do hope it's just the car breaking in otherwise, something might just be a little off. The posted fuel economy should at least be met; most of the time, people get an average that is below that number.

Good luck and let's hope for the best!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Hoodzy]

Oh and no tint on the upper part of the windshield

[ipse]

I'll chip in with my noob observations (2011 GX Sport 5MT):
- crappy tires, hard and with little adhrence
- noisy interior
- WTF was Mazda thinking, a 260km/h max speedometer? When is this car gonna hit 260? In free fall from a plane? What this does is it crams the numbers too close together and only half of the instrument is actually used.
- no temp gauge (not "guage")
- limited display info for MP3s
- no USB port on mine...come on, this is being really cheap
- interior plastic is a dust magnet - if anyone can recommend a silicon product that's antistatic as well, I'm all ears
- body panel alignment could have been better (and this is a car built in Japan...I wonder how the others do)
- no dead pedal
- poor placement of the 12v ACC port - my GPS power adapter gets in the way of the shift knob in 3rd and 5th
- too big headrests for the back seats...I had to removed them to get full rear visibility in the mirror
- weird design of the front wheel panels - the curves are misaligned, giving the impression of a replaced panel...from another car or model
- seat support could be better and the black material is prone to marks (ScotchGuard takes care of some of that)
- like others I find the tank back-pressuring too soon. It's hard to measure fuel consumption when you never know how much gas you actually put in
- I'm really concerned about rust, although I only had the car for a month and a half. But since everyone complains, it MUST be true

Don't get me wrong, I would NOT have chosen another car even with the minor quibbles above. I'm happy with the handling and the overall design and execution (so far).
Too bad no one at Mazda looks at this type of user feedback - it would elp them build a better car with minimal effort (and/or additional cost).

[mazda72]

I'll chip in with my noob observations (2011 GX Sport 5MT):
- crappy tires, hard and with little adhrence
- noisy interior
- WTF was Mazda thinking, a 260km/h max speedometer? When is this car gonna hit 260? In free fall from a plane? What this does is it crams the numbers too close together and only half of the instrument is actually used.
- no temp gauge (not "guage")
- limited display info for MP3s
- no USB port on mine...come on, this is being really cheap
- interior plastic is a dust magnet - if anyone can recommend a silicon product that's antistatic as well, I'm all ears
- body panel alignment could have been better (and this is a car built in Japan...I wonder how the others do)
- no dead pedal
- poor placement of the 12v ACC port - my GPS power adapter gets in the way of the shift knob in 3rd and 5th
- too big headrests for the back seats...I had to removed them to get full rear visibility in the mirror
- weird design of the front wheel panels - the curves are misaligned, giving the impression of a replaced panel...from another car or model
- seat support could be better and the black material is prone to marks (ScotchGuard takes care of some of that)
- like others I find the tank back-pressuring too soon. It's hard to measure fuel consumption when you never know how much gas you actually put in
- I'm really concerned about rust, although I only had the car for a month and a half. But since everyone complains, it MUST be true

Don't get me wrong, I would NOT have chosen another car even with the minor quibbles above. I'm happy with the handling and the overall design and execution (so far).
Too bad no one at Mazda looks at this type of user feedback - it would elp them build a better car with minimal effort (and/or additional cost).



^^^Good review! I agree, whats up with the speedometer going to 260km/h? ...and no dead pedal?
Also the space in the back is small compared to my Protege5, its difficult putting the child in her baby seat.
Still , this car is a hoot to drive and best in class! I wouldnt buy anything else.

[Akiba48]

What's wrong with 260km/h? A 2011 Corolla goes 240km/h...does it even matter?
I drive 100% city, and I'm in between 10-12L/100km...each bar represents approximately 40km * 6 (half meter) which is approx ~240km. Around there, the fill-up is about 24L of gas.

[ipse]

What's wrong with 260km/h? A 2011 Corolla goes 240km/h...does it even matter?
See the last part of THAT comment: the point is that numbers are small (at least in km/h, I've seen it bit better in mi/h) and the needle is always in the first third of the gauge.

[Kiyomi]

See the last part of THAT comment: the point is that numbers are small (at least in km/h, I've seen it bit better in mi/h) and the needle is always in the first third of the gauge.

Is it really that big of a deal? its almost like ur trying to find something wrong lol, sides on the track i think the needle is awesome when it gets around the 160 mark.

[Laz93]

I'll chip in with my noob observations (2011 GX Sport 5MT):
- crappy tires, hard and with little adhrence
- noisy interior
- WTF was Mazda thinking, a 260km/h max speedometer? When is this car gonna hit 260? In free fall from a plane? What this does is it crams the numbers too close together and only half of the instrument is actually used.
- no temp gauge (not "guage")
- limited display info for MP3s
- no USB port on mine...come on, this is being really cheap
- interior plastic is a dust magnet - if anyone can recommend a silicon product that's antistatic as well, I'm all ears
- body panel alignment could have been better (and this is a car built in Japan...I wonder how the others do)
- no dead pedal
- poor placement of the 12v ACC port - my GPS power adapter gets in the way of the shift knob in 3rd and 5th
- too big headrests for the back seats...I had to removed them to get full rear visibility in the mirror
- weird design of the front wheel panels - the curves are misaligned, giving the impression of a replaced panel...from another car or model
- seat support could be better and the black material is prone to marks (ScotchGuard takes care of some of that)
- like others I find the tank back-pressuring too soon. It's hard to measure fuel consumption when you never know how much gas you actually put in
- I'm really concerned about rust, although I only had the car for a month and a half. But since everyone complains, it MUST be true

Don't get me wrong, I would NOT have chosen another car even with the minor quibbles above. I'm happy with the handling and the overall design and execution (so far).
Too bad no one at Mazda looks at this type of user feedback - it would elp them build a better car with minimal effort (and/or additional cost).

the interior plastic is horrible with dust, ive had my mz3 for about 3 weeks and their is dust being collected everywhere.

[Astig02]

update:

Fuel Consumption
I continue to see very disappointing fuel consumption on my Mz3. Given we are in this cold weather condition, i average around 13.5L/100Km.
I'm a bit bothered by this. I have seen other member's "fuelly" records and never seen something like this. I drive 100% city. I tried everything this forum suggested to improve fuel econ but nothing happens.
I cruise on stop lights, easy on acceleration and braking too. I check my tire pressure regularly even sometimes too often to make sure its on par on what is recommended (32~35 psi).

I had the car for 3 months now and i put on almost 4000 Km. Is this still consider breaking in? Will i see an improvement in the fuel econ down the road? I at least expect closer to EPA rating (10.2 L/100km).
I guess i'm stuck with this car since i financed it for 7 yrs. I stopped tracking the fuel consumption due to disappointing results.

However, since a new just started, I'll start a new "fuelly" to monitor it again although i know its gonna be horrible.
I really hope it gets better.

Rattles and Other Noises

Due to the temperature drop, the plastic hardware became more stiff and squeaks a lot. Without the radio On, i hear rattles/squeaks from the passenger side. It looks like the passenger side mirror vibrates quite a bit and can get very annoying. I also believe some of the "airvents cover" vibrates too and does produce squeaky noises. It can really get very annoying, and it makes the car feels really cheap specially when i have passengers even point it out to me.

[Elusivellama]

update:

Fuel Consumption
I continue to see very disappointing fuel consumption on my Mz3. Given we are in this cold weather condition, i average around 13.5L/100Km
I'm a bit bothered by this. I have seen other member's "fuelly" records and never seen something like this. I drive 100% city. I tried everything this forum suggested to improve fuel econ but nothing happens.


Sounds about right. You have a 2.5L engine, and thus higher fuel consumption. As I'm sure you already know, cold air contains more oxygen, thus higher fuel consumption again. Also winter gas is supposed to give you less mileage / L than summer gas. At 13.5L/100km around the city I'd say you're about average on fuel consumption in the winter.



I cruise on stop lights, easy on acceleration and braking too. I check my tire pressure regularly even sometimes too often to make sure its on par on what is recommended (32~35 psi).


How do you coast to a stop? Meaning, do you put it in N or leave it in gear?

Also, if you have winter tires, you're supposed to inflate them ~4psi higher than what is stated on the door sticker. Since my car's recommended psi is 35 for the summer tires, I inflate my winters to 40.




I had the car for 3 months now and i put on almost 4000 Km. Is this still consider breaking in? Will i see an improvement in the fuel econ down the road? I at least expect closer to EPA rating (10.2 L/100km).
I guess i'm stuck with this car since i financed it for 7 yrs. I stopped tracking the fuel consumption due to disappointing results.


Probably break in by 12 - 15k, and maybe a slight improvement in fuel economy. It has more to do with the weather, your vehicle setup, batch of gas and driving habits. EPA ratings are all BS, don't believe them.

[Mr Wilson]

13.5 is high, how are you measuing consumption? car's computer?

If you are track the mileage (after filling up the car) and the next fill up make note of how many litres it takes to fill back up. Either use fuelly.com or work it out manually and it gives a much more realistic number than the car's computer.

Otherwise Ellusive hit everything. It's amazing how lousy winter gas is. Following my fill ups on fuelly I can pretty much tell you the week winter gas was brought to the Petro at Keele and Bloor. I'm currently running about 1.5 litres/100km higher than the summer months.

[Elusivellama]

There are so many factors that come into play when determining fuel economy, it's best to just list how your typical commute breaks down. How many stop lights, how long/far is it, amount of traffic, what tires you're using, etc.

I typically get 12 - 13+L/100km if I'm doing a 100% city commute where I work. But that's because my commute is 5km each way, 6 stop lights, a couple hilly areas and I usually go somewhere away from the office during lunch. In short, my situation during the week is one step away from being the worst-case scenario for fuel economy... tons of short trips, several traffic lights that I usually have to stop for, etc. All it's missing is stop and go traffic.

If I use boost... forget it. I don't even look at the trip computer - pay to play, etc.

Without knowing how your commute breaks down, it's impossible to point out a solution. In the end, just enjoy your Mazda knowing that it's not a Corolla or a Civic. Drive it, pay the extra few bucks for the extra gas you used and stop eating junk food or chips, or paying for the slop that Tim Hortons calls coffee (I'm only being half-serious here).

[krimsalt]

Ugh... This is still going on? And yes, 13.5L/100km is decent for winter driving...

[Elusivellama]

Ugh... This is still going on? And yes, 13.5L/100km is decent for winter driving...

I was reading how the EPA tests their cars. 10 - 15% of EPA ratings appear to be actual tests by the agency, the rest are mfr-submitted. The testing procedure for city and highway driving are NOT realistic by any means, even if the results are down-rated to account for 'real-world' scenarios. In short, the only reason to look at the EPA ratings is to get a rough idea of how fuel efficient the car is relative to other cars tested in the same manner, in a lab environment (assuming the EPA and mfr don't fake their test results).

[Sebi]

Still... 13.5% sounds really high for a small car! That’s 35% over the official specs! That's V6 territory.. I’m sure the 2.0T Sonata has way better mileage, with almost twice the power.

[ROB_MAZDA]

Try a mini duster and wipe the dash every so often,,,keep it in the car too!

[Huronmak]

Redlines not at 9k ahah
and the RUST....

[ismail_alikhan]

Something in the 2012 model - the lock/ unlock button is not lighted so at night virtually invisble. Thats really unacceptable, especially when you have random blue mood lighting throughout the cabin. IMHO save the bulb and use it for something useful.

I noticed this when comparing to the new Honda Civic, which has this feature.

[djsebzilla]

The only cons in 1 word. Rust -_-

[Impressive]

Rust
Cheap carpet
Lack of dead pedal

One more thing that does not concern me, yet still is a con for Mazda3's...Where is the USB input port? C'mon Mazda, it's 2012 man! give us some audio hook-ups already!

[standsideways]

Rust
Cheap carpet
Lack of dead pedal

One more thing that does not concern me, yet still is a con for Mazda3's...Where is the USB input port? C'mon Mazda, it's 2012 man! give us some audio hook-ups already!

hmm..my 06 and 12 both have a dead pedal.

and the 06 has a spot on the factory headunit for an aux input to be installed(but the kit is $200 ish)
my 12 has an AUX port, and does bluetooth audio.

i dont like how the 2012 with tech has no F'ING spot to hold my iphone, well the center console but i dont like it as much as the 06 center console.

carpet is garbage, no way to beat around that bush LOL!

[Impressive]

hmm..my 06 and 12 both have a dead pedal.

and the 06 has a spot on the factory headunit for an aux input to be installed(but the kit is $200 ish)
my 12 has an AUX port, and does bluetooth audio.

i dont like how the 2012 with tech has no F'ING spot to hold my iphone, well the center console but i dont like it as much as the 06 center console.

carpet is garbage, no way to beat around that bush LOL!

Your 06 was auto IIRC - there isn't one in manual cars (which makes no sense)

As for aux/USB - aux sucks the big one in the sense that you can't change your songs from the steering wheel and you also can't charge your phone through aux input. Bluetooth is a sweet feature with AP2P (whatever song playing is called) but I'd still prefer a USB port with an iPod/MP3 interface on the dash. I'm sure they'll have one in the next gen 3.

+1 on the centre consoles sucking in Gen2s. I like my first gen with 2 separate compartments...I feel they should have kept the little one in the 2010+ models.

[standsideways]

Yea it was auto!

I can't believe I've never noticed the manuals didn't have a dead pedal.

Fail!

[96coroll]

Hey guys,

Just read through this entire thread..it was long

I'm planning on buying a 05 GS from my uncle standard with 75k on it. for 5,000CAD think that is reasonable??? Only options are a/c and power locks.

my biggest concern from reading this was the premature wheal bearing failure. Is there any other issues mechanically that are common?

Another one is the fact that'd i would want to put in an aftermarket headunit and amp and sub. The wiring for the sub is pretty basic although the mounting of the HU seems to be pretty touch to integrate into the dash. Any comments on that?

Thanks

-LC

[Chester_Lampwick]

Hey guys,

Just read through this entire thread..it was long

I'm planning on buying a 05 GS from my uncle standard with 75k on it. for 5,000CAD think that is reasonable??? Only options are a/c and power locks.

my biggest concern from reading this was the premature wheal bearing failure. Is there any other issues mechanically that are common?

Another one is the fact that'd i would want to put in an aftermarket headunit and amp and sub. The wiring for the sub is pretty basic although the mounting of the HU seems to be pretty touch to integrate into the dash. Any comments on that?

Thanks

-LC

I dunno. $5,000 sounds a little high for that car considering it's your uncle. Maybe he want's $5,000 but doesn't know you're interested and would sell it to you for $3500? I'd float that by him.

I wouldn't worry about premature wheel bearing failure. If it happens after 60,000 kms, it wouldn't be all that premature. That's the basic warranty. Anything could break on a used car, if you can't budget $500 -$1000 /yr for repairs, you probably can't afford a car. Since he's you uncle, you should have an idea how he treated it.

[Gloomfrost]

Just wanted to add that I have an '04 GS with 162km's on it and nothing has ever gone wrong on it. Other than routine maintenance, the ONLY issues I have had is little rust (:P), and one seized rear-caliper which I believe was the fault of a Suzuki tech putting in new pads/rotors (don't ask). It has never needed to be towed or pulled off to the side of the road (hopefully it stays that way!)

Took it to Joe a week or so ago to get a general inspection. The only thing he pointed out was the rear bushings are rusting a little, and the passenger side engine mount is slightly bad, but everything else looks good and requires no service.

[96coroll]

Gloomfrost,

That's some good news to hear.

As per the price ya i was looking at kijiji and auto trader. found some between 4,700-5,600 but they all had 150,000 and more. This one only has only ~72,000 on it. so that is an advantage. Although all my uncle said is what ever the trade in value is. Is what he'll give it to me for. And just guessed it'll be 5,000 wholesale value but we'll see. Has any got a VIP (vechile information package) lately for this car? what the wholesale written on there?

-LC

[aris]

Hey guys,

Just read through this entire thread..it was long

I'm planning on buying a 05 GS from my uncle standard with 75k on it. for 5,000CAD think that is reasonable??? Only options are a/c and power locks.

my biggest concern from reading this was the premature wheal bearing failure. Is there any other issues mechanically that are common?

Another one is the fact that'd i would want to put in an aftermarket headunit and amp and sub. The wiring for the sub is pretty basic although the mounting of the HU seems to be pretty touch to integrate into the dash. Any comments on that?

Thanks

-LC

I'm not sure about the older mazda's but my 08 mazda i bought brand new and now i'm at 148,000km and never had a issue with my car (air bag light came one but that was cause the plug got unplugged under passenger seat) my sister in laws 08 was bought brand new and she has well over 200,000km on hers and never had any issues with hers...just rust on hers.

The only thing i would be worried about is RUST on these cars. If it has rust or had rust but repaired don't buy it...the rust will be back

[Gloomfrost]

Gloomfrost,

That's some good news to hear.

As per the price ya i was looking at kijiji and auto trader. found some between 4,700-5,600 but they all had 150,000 and more. This one only has only ~72,000 on it. so that is an advantage. Although all my uncle said is what ever the trade in value is. Is what he'll give it to me for. And just guessed it'll be 5,000 wholesale value but we'll see. Has any got a VIP (vechile information package) lately for this car? what the wholesale written on there?

-LC

A good rule of thumb is Kijiji prices / 2 = dealer trade-in value.
You'll have to find a 72km one though.

[jmacman12]

Has somebody already mentioned road noise? If not, that lol

[Hyperion]

Has somebody already mentioned road noise? If not, that lol

Spend more than $500 on your tires.

[Kiyomi]

Spend more than $500 on your tires.

LMAO!!! +1

[Impressive]

Spend more than $500 on your tires.

LOL!!

[aris]

Spend more than $500 on your tires.

What do you mean?

[Impressive]

What do you mean?

People buy crummy tires and have road noise issues.

My winter and summer tires are both less noisy than either my girlfriends summer or winter setups. Quality goes a long way :thumbsup

[aris]

People buy crummy tires and have road noise issues.

My winter and summer tires are both less noisy than either my girlfriends summer or winter setups. Quality goes a long way :thumbsup

True but these cars camber screws up the tires too. I bought bFG tires 3 summers ago and I only had one summer of them being quiet an the last two summers they were loud. I paid $600 US for them. And yes I took my car in for aligment but it turns out camber kits and setting the camber at 0 fixed the issue and now i'm stuck with loud tires until they wear :(

[zmz3]

True but these cars camber screws up the tires too. I bought bFG tires 3 summers ago and I only had one summer of them being quiet an the last two summers they were loud. I paid $600 US for them. And yes I took my car in for aligment but it turns out camber kits and setting the camber at 0 fixed the issue and now i'm stuck with loud tires until they wear :(

Unfortuantely, it seems very common with a lot of cars now a days.

2010 CRV - same issues with camber and road noise from rear gets really annoying!!
2007 Civic - same issue with camber and rear tires!

Frustrating...

[Huronmak]

This car is great except for the pain in the ass rust .......

[liquidzyklon]

People buy crummy tires and have road noise issues.

My winter and summer tires are both less noisy than either my girlfriends summer or winter setups. Quality goes a long way :thumbsupRoad noise isn't just the tires. I've got brand new Michelin Primacy MXV4 tires which are highly rated for quiet tires. The tire noise is reduced. But wind noise and other noise (i.e. other cars passing by, etc.) are still loud and will remain so.

My comparison is to a 2002 Honda Civic with Michelin Harmony and it's quieter than my Mazda3 with Michelin Primacy MXV4 tires. Bottom line, the Mazda3 wasn't built with the quietest cabin noise (or manufacturer's call it Noise Vibration and Harness, NVH).

[the_big_D]

I believe the car is great! other that a few small person opinions (not neccessarily cons) there is nothing i can complain about. I luckily havent run into any rust other than a few chips that i covered up with touch up paint. My only true "con" about the car doesnt even deal with the car, it is the customer service at my dealership. I dont want to get into any details, i might put a review in the dealership reviews. Anyways bottomline...... GREAT CAR!:headbang

[TheAnswer_03]

After driving the 3 for about a year (2.3L), my biggest cons are the automatic transmission and the fuel mileage. The shifting is not smooth and consistent, even after warmup, some shifts are noticeable depending on how hard you're on the throttle. Although it has improved when switching to synthetic ATF.

[rajin929]

damn rust. oh and the POS 4-speed auto tragic.

never a Mazda again.

Great model - build a car that rusts to shit, then produce new parts that deal with the rusting issue. Make owners buy new parts and have them installed....and wait for the next part to go.

[113GT]

damn rust. oh and the POS 4-speed auto tragic.

never a Mazda again.

Great model - build a car that rusts to shit, then produce new parts that deal with the rusting issue. Make owners buy new parts and have them installed....and wait for the next part to go.

that is EXACTLY what Mazda was thinking when they designed this car.

major facepalm dude.


***in case you are a bit slow, i was sarcastic....****

[113GT]

The con that i have is not with the car itself, but the dealerships suck!! I dread going there for maintanence but i feel better since i can hold them accountable for any screw ups.

[rajin929]

that is EXACTLY what Mazda was thinking when they designed this car.

major facepalm dude.


***in case you are a bit slow, i was sarcastic....****

as too was I, no worries.

[113GT]

as too was I, no worries.

no sarcasm apparent at all lol. whatever, moving on.

[rgs]

Biggest con for the 2012 Mazda3 Skyactiv is that it's so much fun to drive that despite the better fuel efficiency I'm still burning more gas! :)

[mazdalver]

People every car gets rust, some more than other, but there are lots of cheap products you can buy to protect your car from rust and you should wash your car once a month and if you see rust already there tons of ways to get rid of it. So rust isn't a con of the mazda because every car gets them. Mazda's are amazing and you will only get problems if you don't take care of your car.

[tweak_s]

People every car gets rust, some more than other, but there are lots of cheap products you can buy to protect your car from rust and you should wash your car once a month and if you see rust already there tons of ways to get rid of it. So rust isn't a con of the mazda because every car gets them. Mazda's are amazing and you will only get problems if you don't take care of your car.

I'm sorry I have to disagree. Yes there are those who don't have a problem at alall, I say though that that is the exception not the norm.

I took care of the car a lot, washed it weekly, waxed often, all that jazz. And rust still developed in 3 years. Very little and it was "repaired" but it happened none the less.

Yes every car rusts, but it seems this is very premature. The 1994 Accord in my house didn't rust until 6-7 years, and Honda's are known to be quite susceptible to rust.

It just seems there's a high number of rusted vehicles that really list are not that old yet...

[peterm15]

If rust wasn't a problem with Mazda.

They wouldn't be fixing it under a warranty for 6 years.

Frankly for a car company to fix rust in CANADA under any kind of warranty. They recognize that there is a problem.

[mazdalver]

yes I do agree with you as well, just many people complain about the 2004 mazda 3 with having a lot of rust problems. People have to understand that 2004 was the first edition of the mazda 3s and it was bound to have problems, and mazda has fixed the problem with rust in the recent models. A family member of mine however had the 2004 mazda 3 gt model and it didn't start rusting till 6 years later because of how they took care of the car. Eventually every car will rust, theres no doubt about that.

[Booter22]

Eventually every car will rust, theres no doubt about that.

i have been waiting for someone to say this! i had a 2002 ford focus and i got it in 2005 and it then was rusting below the fenders in front and in the rear doors and hatch and i was told by Ford then i was out of luck for warranty which i now find surprising. but even by 2010 when i got rid of it. rust of course got worse but i tried to keep it to a low but at the end of the day cars will rust. i havent seen one not rust yet. each car has the 5 year warranty and to me thats very good. as by 5 years of me having my car it will have over 160,000 km at my current driving habbit. and 2 years to an age of 7 years it will have 224,000 and thats if i still have it. so unless this car starts rusting in the next 5 years thats the last thing im worried about.

mind you peterm15 if rust wasnt a problem for any car they wouldnt warranty it period. vw covers rust for 10 years. mazda covers rust for 5 years. ford, honda, who knows. ( i could tell you if u would still have coverage for perforation if you send me your vin as well) every car manufacture knows every vehicle will rust when faced with what we drive in ( more so salt in the winter) and unless the car is made of plastic id be hard pressed to think that eventually every car wont rust, it of course is up to each manufacture to cover the perforation for so long, if at the end of the day you love the mazda 3 but dont like the 5 year perforation coverage, then apart from buying an extended warranty for rust / perforation the only other choice would be to get a vehicle that you may like less but has a longer warranty ( VW )

[aris]

^^My sister inlaws 08 started to rust In the wheel well when it wa 2 years old... It's going back for its third time before warranty ends.

All cars will rust but when it's 2 years old and rust proofed since new it shouldn't happen.

[Impressive]

yes I do agree with you as well, just many people complain about the 2004 mazda 3 with having a lot of rust problems. People have to understand that 2004 was the first edition of the mazda 3s and it was bound to have problems, and mazda has fixed the problem with rust in the recent models. A family member of mine however had the 2004 mazda 3 gt model and it didn't start rusting till 6 years later because of how they took care of the car. Eventually every car will rust, theres no doubt about that.

It didn't start rusting until SIX years later? You're acting like that car deserves a flippin' medal or something...6 years...really?
There are cars that last decades without rusting, so don't go writing home about six years without rust being due to immaculate conditioning...because it's not anything special.

[peterm15]

It didn't start rusting until SIX years later? You're acting like that car deserves a flippin' medal or something...6 years...really?
There are cars that last decades without rusting, so don't go writing home about six years without rust being due to immaculate conditioning...because it's not anything special.

My 86 olds didn't start rusting until 2010 when I loaned it to my sis for a year and she didn't take care of it.

My 94 grand am didn't rust until 2007. And it's been parked outside since then and there is still no perforation.

[aris]

My 86 olds didn't start rusting until 2010 when I loaned it to my sis for a year and she didn't take care of it.

My 94 grand am didn't rust until 2007. And it's been parked outside since then and there is still no perforation.

Ill add to this lol....My brother 99 silverado zero rust and it's on it's 13th year.. Rust proofed since new and driven daily

[Booter22]

It didn't start rusting until SIX years later? You're acting like that car deserves a flippin' medal or something...6 years...really?
There are cars that last decades without rusting, so don't go writing home about six years without rust being due to immaculate conditioning...because it's not anything special.

not my place to say but i think this is a bit uncalled for ":rant :flaming" as it was just a statement and observation as mazdalver said they do agree with the cons being rust. and yes every car will rust, it depends on when. we have a 2002 ford taurus ( my dads car) has rust on the rear wheel wells.. bad, front hood, roof. its sad to see as the car has 136,000km, they also have a 2007 camry- not a spec or spot on paint or body and it has only 40,000 km purchased from a neighbour, where as the gfs parents have a 04 avalanche with 150,000 km, mint paint, but of standard body rust under, and a 2002 Silverado 1500 with 260,000 km. good paint, bad under the vehicle and lastly a 2003 maxima with 170,000 km. and good paint and so so body rust. so i mean from ford, mazda, chev and nissan, they all go in different ways. even my sisters 2000 ford taurus doesnt have the rear fender rust as bad as my dads 2002 and the 2002 has seen more washes and care then my sisters car. take it down to when it was built.. maybe who knows.

now down to the two 2010 mazda 3's. mine- rust protected since purchased, not even a spec of rust, sharkbaits ( not rust protected ) no paint rust and slight frame rust and she had rust repaired on the door pillar trim ( which there is a tsb for if it happens )

[Impressive]

not my place to say but i think this is a bit uncalled for ":rant :flaming" as it was just a statement and observation as mazdalver said they do agree with the cons being rust. and yes every car will rust, it depends on when. we have a 2002 ford taurus ( my dads car) has rust on the rear wheel wells.. bad, front hood, roof. its sad to see as the car has 136,000km, they also have a 2007 camry- not a spec or spot on paint or body and it has only 40,000 km purchased from a neighbour, where as the gfs parents have a 04 avalanche with 150,000 km, mint paint, but of standard body rust under, and a 2002 Silverado 1500 with 260,000 km. good paint, bad under the vehicle and lastly a 2003 maxima with 170,000 km. and good paint and so so body rust. so i mean from ford, mazda, chev and nissan, they all go in different ways. even my sisters 2000 ford taurus doesnt have the rear fender rust as bad as my dads 2002 and the 2002 has seen more washes and care then my sisters car. take it down to when it was built.. maybe who knows.

now down to the two 2010 mazda 3's. mine- rust protected since purchased, not even a spec of rust, sharkbaits ( not rust protected ) no paint rust and slight frame rust and she had rust repaired on the door pillar trim ( which there is a tsb for if it happens )

I'm just saying that six years is NOTHING. the only cars on your list that have rust on them it seems are American...and well, that's what you get when you buy American cars :chuckle

It's actually sad that 2010 Mazda3s are even showing signs of rust already....absolutely pathetic on Mazda's part. As you already know John all three of my family's Mazdas have rust on them and knowing that my moms car (07 GS, washed bi-weekly, rustproofed, garage stored, drives less than 10,000km annually) already has rust forming on it makes me want to bash the head of the guy who designed the rear wheel wells into a wall for giving the go ahead to mass produce such a poorly executed product.

My 2000 VW Jetta did not have a speck of rust with almost 300,000km on it, and that thing was lucky if I washed it more than twice a year.

I don't mean to flame the kid, I just want to make sure that people don't get too impressed by six measly rust free years by one car, as I think being rust free (at least within the first DECADE of a vehicles life barring good treatment) should be the absolute norm.

[Booter22]

no i know what you mean. 6 years is not a something to jump for joy but it i suppose could be worse. but yea.. i would more or less not buy another focus if they still have problems when it comes down to another car because of my old one and my dads car, unless i really really wanted the ST or RS. but in any event. :bot

Cons - ( i think now i should have gotten red or white )
Pros - otherwise I love everything about my Mazda 3 :D

[Impressive]

Don't get me wrong, I'd never buy another MK4 VW














okay, maybe I would, but just to SLAM it and throw wide BBS rims so it'll look nice occupying a permanent spot in my future ridiculously oversized garage :chuckle

[mazdalver]

Alright if you are gunna make such a big deal of this rust then don't buy a Mazda in the first place. Simple as that.

[mazdalver]

And I wasnt saying 6 years to deserve of flippin medal, I just said it cause that's what I've experienced. So relax there

[aris]

Alright if you are gunna make such a big deal of this rust then don't buy a Mazda in the first place. Simple as that.
FOr some of us it's to late

[mazdalver]

you can trade in your car for a better one

[aris]

you can trade in your car for a better one

Says who? Do you know what their giving for these cars?
Most of us are stuck with these cars till dead.

[mazdalver]

Says who? Do you know what their giving for these cars?
Mist of us are stuck with these cars till dead.

i dont know i was just saying, like i know it sucks that mazdas rust that's why i'm trying my best to prevent it from happening to my mazda.

[aris]

i dont know i was just saying, like i know it sucks that mazdas rust that's why i'm trying my best to prevent it from happening to my mazda.
Mine hasn't rusted but my sister inlaws did... Both are 08's. Their car is worth $5,000 if that on trade. Not worth to take such a nasty hit on a 4.5 year old car. So like I said a lot of the people with rust are stuck with theirs cars.

[Impressive]

I'm stuck with my car since it's got almost 200,000km on it, but I bought it 3 years ago absolutely rust free and it had been rustproofed annually prior to me buying it. My mom's car at the time I purchased my car had no rust either but now they are both starting to rust up along the rear wheel well. You couldn't see the rust on my car truthfully unless you look really hard but honestly had I have known this would have been an issue I would've probably held out with my VW another year or so and bought a Speed, as they don't seem to get bit so hard by the rust bug.

I'm just thankful that my main issue with my Mazda is rust, and nothing more serious (engine/tranny related stuff). The car has been solid as a rock for me and I'm still happy with my purchase overall, but I really hope Mazda learns from these premature rust issues and puts an end to them for future model generations.

[Gloomfrost]

Maybe Mazda secretly used cheap metal and production processes so that we'd get to enjoy our fabulous cars until the bitter end.


Mine hasn't rusted but my sister inlaws did... Both are 08's. Their car is worth $5,000 if that on trade. Not worth to take such a nasty hit on a 4.5 year old car. So like I said a lot of the people with rust are stuck with theirs cars.

[Gloomfrost]

I'm just thankful that my main issue with my Mazda is rust, and nothing more serious (engine/tranny related stuff). The car has been solid as a rock for me and I'm still happy with my purchase overall, but I really hope Mazda learns from these premature rust issues and puts an end to them for future model generations.

There's going to be bigger problems when in ~2015 or so, the rusted '04-'05 generation that's still on the road starts snapping their rear wheels off because of rusted bushings.

[6strings]

Bought my 2006 hatch in summer of 09. I've treated it well, so in return it treats me well.
Of course I am a simple person. I don't have a need for heated seats, auto dimming this, or unicorns delivering coffee through the air vents. :P jks.
As long as the car does what it is supposed to, then I am happy.
I won't complain much about the paint on the front as I doubt it is factory paint, but to me it seems like stone chips are its worst nightmare.
But then again I drive a lot.
As for rust, none yet, just a tad at the bottom where the skirt meets the rearfender, and that is it. I know over time a car will rust,
but I'm prepared for the ugly look.
I bought this car to serve me for years, I only hope that in another 3 years I can continue to speak well of this car.

[jonjon72]

Rust on my 2006 Mazda3 was an issue. Had top get two doors replaced a couple of years ago. When I traded it in, rust was starting to creep out on the rear wheel wells even after they had "fixed" it when I had the door taken out. Most people know on the forum know I took care of the car.....obsessively. Consistent washed and waxed. Interior was still mint when I traded it in.

The problem with rust is a concern for a majority of 1st gen 3's and if you look at the Protege's, it was also a problem. Rust in the same area. Its an issue with Mazda. I have to agree with Aris. My sisters 5 year old Honda fit gets a car wash about 3 times a year and 1 waxing in its lifetime. Zero rust.

Other than this, my 3 was close to perfect. No issues when I traded her in and the dealership complimented me on how well it ran and taken care of. But even they had to ask how the rust was on my car. Its quite a well known issue for those in the car community.

[RTEnthusiast]

My '05 Mini Cooper has 120K on it and has been winter driven. Not a spec of rust.

My '93 Integra has over 320K on it and has been winter driven other than the last 2-3 years. Just a few spots on the rear wheelwells.

My '03 Intrepid R/T had 244K when I traded it in; not a spec of rust.


Why is it that my '06 Mazda3 had to have the rear fenders replaced? ;)

[rajin929]

my rust comment opened back up the can of worms on this thread lol

reading all the posts.....it seems on this Forum, the guys who make sense are the ones with post counts in the several thousands and who have been around on TM3 for quite some time.

[rajin929]

edited, was a double post of the one above

[kaboose]

is rust problem still relevant with new mazdas? 2010 and up models? I have 2010 mazda3 and no rust so far :)

[FD22]

is rust problem still relevant with new mazdas? 2010 and up models? I have 2010 mazda3 and no rust so far :)

I would say it's hard to judge for newer models at this moment. It's going to take some time for the car to be exposed to mother nature's elements, and only time will tell if newer Mazda models can fight off the rust issue better than previous models. Give it a couple years, and then judge.

[seek]

low hp rating of 2.5?

[don77]

The one thing I really really miss on my old '02 Civic is it's drive-by-wire throttle which provides a more immediate acceleration when I press the gas pedal. My biggest beef on new cars is the e-throttle lag which is taking some time to used to on my new 3. Edmund's Inside Line long term road test has some more details in a recent blog post (http://blogs.insideline.com/roadtests/2012/05/2012-mazda-3-when-you-least-expect-it.html). So far it's not an issue 95% of the time I spend driving however I'm still getting used to the lag when I want to pass cars & trucks on the 401 and left turns when traffic is heavy.

[CH0SiiN1]

2007 Hatch.. No rust but if rain hits it to hard, that tin can dents like a mofo

[113GT]

2007 Hatch.. No rust but if rain hits it to hard, that tin can dents like a mofo

never heard of rain denting a car....are you sure it's not hail that is denting your car? what kind of facking rain do you guys get in Ontario lol

[Stathakos]

The only thing I hate about my car, are the brakes

[r4mi5awi]

The lack of analog gauges for the fuel tank and engine temp.

[captobvious75]

No temp sensor makes me very sad

[r4mi5awi]

The anemic A/C system. Blasting it to the highest level is comparable to the 2nd level in most cars. WEAK!

[Metal Wing]

The anemic A/C system. Blasting it to the highest level is comparable to the 2nd level in most cars. WEAK!

Really? o-o In my 2013 I can't stand it if its more than 1/4 power, cause its too cold and too loud (could be considered a con?)

[leecheefoto]

I think The ac system in the mazdas are pretty decent. The older corollas suck and my sisters 07's condenser went again.

[aris]

The anemic A/C system. Blasting it to the highest level is comparable to the 2nd level in most cars. WEAK!


Agreed....

[Chrisinski]

Lack of imediate low end power, A/C sucks, exhaust could be easyier to work with and cabin noise is terrible. You get use to cabin noise but when its wet outside or on a gravel road just kill me.

[Hyperion]

Lack of imediate low end power, A/C sucks, exhaust could be easyier to work with and cabin noise is terrible. You get use to cabin noise but when its wet outside or on a gravel road just kill me.

The exhaust is super easy to work with.

[sarujo]

I wonder if the 13's got an A/C upgrade? My 2010 is not bad. You pretty much need to have it set to max with recirc and fan speed of 3 and up. My understanding was that the 2010's (gen2) got a condenser upgrade from the Mazda 5. The gen 1's seem to have quite the reputation for weak a/c. My gen2 is definitely not frosty ice cold. My dad's 2006 Sonata on the other hand gets frigid cold, to the point you need to turn it off.


Really? o-o In my 2013 I can't stand it if its more than 1/4 power, cause its too cold and too loud (could be considered a con?)

[S.F.W.]

I wonder if the 13's got an A/C upgrade? My 2010 is not bad. You pretty much need to have it set to max with recirc and fan speed of 3 and up. My understanding was that the 2010's (gen2) got a condenser upgrade from the Mazda 5. The gen 1's seem to have quite the reputation for weak a/c. My gen2 is definitely not frosty ice cold. My dad's 2006 Sonata on the other hand gets frigid cold, to the point you need to turn it off.

My 04 sedan had decent AC, my 2010'speed has really good/gets damn cold AC.

[3zilla]

My '13s ac s really cold and really strong. Not in full summer yet but I keep it in 1 for that reason and I mix with it mostly feet or windshield so it's not blowing directly on me because its too much. Vast improvement from my '07 which was pretty cold but not too strong

[frankie7]

ya, AWFUL AC system and confused heating

[Jenuine]

Rear doors not opening wide enough. I struggled to fit my godson's car seat through... had to do it on an angle.

[r4mi5awi]

Rear doors not opening wide enough. I struggled to fit my godson's car seat through... had to do it on an angle.

So true

[dietsprite]

The biggest cons for me are leg room, road noise and a bumpy ride but i got used to it now
AC is cold just enough

[Nooby31]

2 cons:

1- the back end of the sedan is raised to high.

2- the fog horn noise my rear brakes make when I brake or reverse.

[sip]

The biggest cons for me are leg room, road noise and a bumpy ride but i got used to it now
AC is cold just enough

+1

[13adt9]

The horn is just terrible on 1stgen

[r4mi5awi]

The horn is just terrible on 1stgen

Don't worry, second gen is bad too lol

[Stathakos]

con? whole car.

[RTEnthusiast]

con? whole car.

You need a new TT RS ;)

[Stathakos]

You need a new TT RS ;)

Ahhhh, now we're talking solutions

[jay93]

I drive an 06 and have been SOOO lucky with rust. I have bubbles on the 3rd brake light. Aside from that road noise is horrendous. I wish that in 2006 manuel windows were gone but NOPE (oh well junkyard and grab all the switchs and motor needed) roomy back seats for adults so that I don't have to roll my seat all the way forward and drive like I'm 4 feet tall.

[m3gad37h]

My 2013 as been rather good to me up to now. Only complaint I have is that the cup holders, they are just too deep and usually make a mess when placing smaller cups in there. Leg room would be limited if your a larger frame, only being 120lbs I have no issues.

[Maz3Dan]

I love my 3, and i'm glad that i bought it. The car has been good to me this past year.

My only con.... it requires alot more servicing than some other cars.

Ex: my sister is a fan of toyota. She had a Corolla, and now has a Rav4. Her servicing schedule is every six months. Though i'm not just talking about that. My 3 at 95km is already in need of both rear bushing replacements, and front shock replacements, tranny flush, 2 engine belt replacements. Her Rav4 at 106k has had no work done to it, aside from a drain and fill during last years major service.

[Bean]

Holy Moly, Our 1998 Corolla still has just about everything original. It has all of 130,000 km on it. But I still miss my Mazda 3

[Nooby31]

the driver window glass seems flimsy compared to my 2001 nissan sentra. Every time I close the door with the window open slightly or more, it makes a noise that seems to suggest the glass is to thin.

I also recently had the glass vibrate when it is all the way up with my music on. Whenever there is some bass the glass vibrates and it so annoying! The only solution I have so far is to crack the window like 2 mm and it stops.

Any permanent solutions?

[captobvious75]

I wish the boost would start lower in the RPM range. Next car that will be a serious consideration

[Thrizzl3]

I wish the boost would start lower in the RPM range. Next car that will be a serious consideration

2800 isn't low enough? i hope you have fun picking up your engine guts off the road.

[Kiewan]

I feel the pedals are a bit too close together on gen 1. My work boots may also be too big but I sometimes catch the back of the break pedal when taking my foot off of the gas.

[Egyptshun]

I feel the pedals are a bit too close together on gen 1. My work boots may also be too big but I sometimes catch the back of the break pedal when taking my foot off of the gas.

I feel that My clutch is too close to the brake pedal, but I only drive with classy shoes or sneakers, boots I think might be too much for all pedals in a gen 1.

My only main con of the Mz3 is that I think it is sometimes hard to put into gear, like sometimes it fights me to go into reverse or 1st gear. It annoys me when I really need first when on the streets.

[Kiewan]

I feel that My clutch is too close to the brake pedal, but I only drive with classy shoes or sneakers, boots I think might be too much for all pedals in a gen 1.

My only main con of the Mz3 is that I think it is sometimes hard to put into gear, like sometimes it fights me to go into reverse or 1st gear. It annoys me when I really need first when on the streets.

If your stationary, put into neutral, take foot off clutch, and try again. Another member suggested in another cold weather thread and it works every time.

[bestknightmare]

No immediate power, and the trunk only "pops" it doesnt open all the way. Had to put stuff down (or change hands) just to open the trunk. Cars like the new camry (not sure about the previous camry) opens the trunk with a push of a button)

[Zotaga]

I've owned a Hyundai Accent, Pontiac Sunfire, and now a Mazda3.. the only con I can say this car has is that it's got some cheap parts on it (i.e. the shock mounts, engine mounts, etc.).

I'm actually working on a custom shock mount for the rear Mazda3's Gen1.. the current shock mounts are cast but I am going to make some machined mounts.. it should last the life of the car.

[FD22]

I've owned a Hyundai Accent, Pontiac Sunfire, and now a Mazda3.. the only con I can say this car has is that it's got some cheap parts on it (i.e. the shock mounts, engine mounts, etc.).

I'm actually working on a custom shock mount for the rear Mazda3's Gen1.. the current shock mounts are cast but I am going to make some machined mounts.. it should last the life of the car.

Machined over cast for a somewhat structural part of the car? Hmm not sure I agree with that. If anything, you'd be making matters worse in my opinion.

[Zotaga]

Machined over cast for a somewhat structural part of the car? Hmm not sure I agree with that. If anything, you'd be making matters worse in my opinion.

Then don't make one for your car lol.. I am using stronger metal over the weak, cheap shit that comes oem. I've worked at a major auto maker and they do not go for quality. Everything is about price and how to make shit cheaper at higher volume. Machining new mounts with high strength steel will be better IMO.

[FD22]

Then don't make one for your car lol.. I am using stronger metal over the weak, cheap shit that comes oem. I've worked at a major auto maker and they do not go for quality. Everything is about price and how to make shit cheaper at higher volume. Machining new mounts with high strength steel will be better IMO.

So have I lol actually at numerous ones. Anyway, even if using higher strength steel, it's the processing that you're using which is the concern, given the application of the part. But meh, I could be wrong. I look forward to seeing your product though :)

[Como]

Gen1 hatch. Don't like putting my hand through the disgusting $&itty snow that has accumulated on rear bumper to open hatch. Glove box is almost TOO big. Things get lost in there too easily. The location for the AC button. I'm always hitting it when I move my phone. Wish the final drive running gear wasn't so short. I like the close ratio gear box but running at 3+k rpm on highway tends to get tiresome.

[captobvious75]

2800 isn't low enough? i hope you have fun picking up your engine guts off the road.

What are you trying so say with that post?

Max torque comes on at 3k rpm. From a city DD perspective, a lower Max torque rpm number is far better.

Another thing: needs better motor mounts in stock form. Far too soft and my second gear is paying the price for it

[Thrizzl3]

What are you trying so say with that post?

Max torque comes on at 3k rpm. From a city DD perspective, a lower Max torque rpm number is far better.

Another thing: needs better motor mounts in stock form. Far too soft and my second gear is paying the price for it

How about you get an AP..go into ATR. Change your Throttle Tables to 1:1..then come back.

Get stiffer mounts..OEM = soft. Quit being such a whiney *****

[captobvious75]

How about you get an AP..go into ATR. Change your Throttle Tables to 1:1..then come back.

Get stiffer mounts..OEM = soft. Quit being such a whiney *****

This thread is based on cons of our cars. You can't handle the cons, then GTFO of this thread.

[Thrizzl3]

This thread is based on cons of our cars. You can't handle the cons, then GTFO of this thread.

Haha what?

What cons? Because you want to hit max boost at a lower rpm?

[captobvious75]

Haha what?

What cons? Because you want to hit max boost at a lower rpm?

You never did explain your engine guts post.

[Thrizzl3]

You never did explain your engine guts post.

First of all the Turbo wont spool that low..

Secondly The load on the engine would be high causing catastrophic failure of the rods and pistons.

Anything else you need to know?

[captobvious75]

First of all the Turbo wont spool that low..

Secondly The load on the engine would be high causing catastrophic failure of the rods and pistons.

Anything else you need to know?

You told me nothing I didn't already know. Re read my original post:

I wish the boost would start lower in the RPM range. Next car that will be a serious consideration

Lets analyze that post properly, shall we?

Con: boost builds too high in the rpm range for MY needs and wants.

Solution: next car will be one designed to boost in 2k rpm range. IE: new GTI, new WRX, other cars that spool in my desired RPM range

Engine guts comment was useless. If you're going to reply to my post, at least make it applicable to mine.

[Thrizzl3]

You told me nothing I didn't already know. Re read my original post:

I wish the boost would start lower in the RPM range. Next car that will be a serious consideration

Lets analyze that post properly, shall we?

Con: boost builds too high in the rpm range for MY needs and wants.

Solution: next car will be one designed to boost in 2k rpm range. IE: GTI, other cars that spool in my desired RPM range

Engine guts comment was useless. If you're going to reply to my post, at least make it applicable to mine.

Just buy a ****ing diesel and quit complaining

[captobvious75]

Just buy a ****ing diesel and quit complaining

Thia thread asked for cons, and I gave some. Now now, don't swear. All will be ok

[gta_driver]

Just buy a ****ing diesel and quit complaining

Quit complaining in a cons thread?

By the way, BMW I4 turbo engine provides peak torque at ... wait for it... 1250 RPM. Wow, eh? No diesel needed.

[jay93]

Probably the plastic undertray/splashguard. That thing is horrible! But I guess that is with all cars!

[worryone]

I love my Mazda. But with mine specifically the windows make a horrible clicking noise when I close them when they weren't down all the way. I also don't have an AUX, but it is a 2004 so I guess I can't really complain about that. On time my power steering when I was leaving a parking lot just quit. Started it up again and it was fine. No one could find an issue and it hasn't done it since.

[bestknightmare]

I love my Mazda 3 too! But THOSE DARN WHEEL WEIGHTS KEEP FALLING OFF!!! It's my second one this winter :(

[Kiewan]

My gas cap froze open last week. The lever was stuck in the upward position and the filler door would not lock. Not really exclusive to the 3 I guess.

[Google]

Not quite a day that the mrs has driven her new 2014 GT.

So far,
pros: headlights, Bose Sound System (bass), HD Stereo, Total Traffc feature within the GPS; best bang for your buck for right now

cons: large LCD that doesn't fold down; no stereo off switch; Bose sound system. After a few minute the bass is muddled, very flat sound, very cheaply made; no lighted window or door; switches; fog lights are all but useless; no light in the small glove box, only one cigarette lighter; can't lock back seats; poor performance (you need to be in sport mode to feel any power); useless wifi feature which does nothing; SDCard must be in use to use nav system; SD Card can't be backed up or replaced (Mazda says due to security reasons); dealer only update to infotainment (not including maps) system; I am sure there are more, but it's been only 9 hours so far since we got the car, lol.

[r4mi5awi]

Not quite a day that the mrs has driven her new 2014 GT.

So far,
pros: headlights, Bose Sound System (bass), HD Stereo, Total Traffc feature within the GPS; best bang for your buck for right now

cons: large LCD that doesn't fold down; no stereo off switch; Bose sound system. After a few minute the bass is muddled, very flat sound, very cheaply made; no lighted window or door; switches; fog lights are all but useless; no light in the small glove box, only one cigarette lighter; can't lock back seats; poor performance (you need to be in sport mode to feel any power); useless wifi feature which does nothing; SDCard must be in use to use nav system; SD Card can't be backed up or replaced (Mazda says due to security reasons); dealer only update to infotainment (not including maps) system; I am sure there are more, but it's been only 9 hours so far since we got the car, lol.

You must be disappointed by a lot of things in life

[loki]

Sell it and buy an Audi

[r4BBiT]

Sell it and buy an Audi

+1, no kidding, seems like he is expecting things that come with luxurious brands not a econoboxes :D

[Google]

You must be disappointed by a lot of things in life
No, just in people like you. :P

[Google]

Sell it and buy an Audi
We used to have an Audi ;)


+1, no kidding, seems like he is expecting things that come with luxurious brands not a econoboxes :D
How can you be so obnoxious and say such a thing? Have you ever owned more than one Mazda? We've had three. It's not like I am talking out of my ass like some people.

Mazda is not like it used to be. Sales of the 2014s are significantly down across North America. Just look at the news releases from Mazda Canada and Mazda USA.

The 2014 Mazda3s are now popular to a very small demographic compared to the previous generation Mazda3s. Things will only get worse for Mazda now that they have a plant in Mexico.

[r4mi5awi]

We used to have an Audi ;)


How can you be so obnoxious and say such a thing? Have you ever owned more than one Mazda? We've had three. It's not like I am talking out of my ass like some people.

Mazda is not like it used to be. Sales of the 2014s are significantly down across North America. Just look at the news releases from Mazda Canada and Mazda USA.

The 2014 Mazda3s are now popular to a very small demographic compared to the previous generation Mazda3s. Things will only get worse for Mazda now that they have a plant in Mexico.

Au contraire mon frere...

Autoblog: Mazda reports highest profits in its 94-year history. http://google.com/newsstand/s/CBIwn7qgrxo

Sales up in NA by 5% over last year and expected to increase.