DIY Tow Plate

So I just started modding, mostly aesthetic so far, and didn't feel like buying a tow plate (read: can't afford one) so I decided to make one myself!

Pictures!:

So I was originally planning on using two bolts and cutting one short and then connecting them with a coupling nut as I've seen some people do but I couldn't source the parts for my M20 size tow hook bolt so I decided to use threaded rod and nuts instead. The two nuts on the right are locked against each other and the part of the rod past it is threaded into the hook mount. Locked nuts act as a stop.
http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/...psf7360497.jpg

Picked up some 1/8"x2" steel flat from Home Depot and bent it to shape, drilled holes for mounting. The other two nuts sandwich the plate and are tightened into each other.
http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/...ps99d2e7a3.jpg

The rod is threaded into place first using the two outside nuts locked together.
http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/...psabe92343.jpg

The license plate mount is then sandwiched between the next nut.
http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/...psadb9023b.jpg

And here she is, finished!
http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/...psae7698ba.jpg

Side view:
http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9539d95c.jpg

Top view:
http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0a27e38e.jpg

I'll probably take it off in the next couple of days after running it for a bit and seeing how it performs and paint it to prevent corrosion. With the nuts locked in final locations I might even clean the threads and paint the rod too (the part between the two sets of nuts), just to keep the water and salt from rusting it in place or anything.

:thumbsup

Great job!

Make a list with the prices you spent on them!

I wonder how well those nuts can stop the rotation on the roads though.

dude, this is awesome.Good work! I think ill be doing this on the weekend..

You said the threaded rod you used was M20 size? I think ill just bring in my tow hook to work and measure the width/thread

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by leecheefoto

Great job!

Make a list with the prices you spent on them!

I wonder how well those nuts can stop the rotation on the roads though.

---

I might stop by the hardware store and look for some locking washers to put between the nuts and plate. I tightened them pretty good but the 1/8" plate is pretty heavy. Feels pretty sturdy though, but I'll update if anything happens!

As for the prices:

As I found out, not very many hardware stores, even those specialising in fasteners, carry a 20mm bolt and/or nut. I guess not many people need such a large metric size? But anyway I sourced my 20mm threaded rod and nuts from R. E. Glover Ltd. in Hamilton.

1 of 20M-2.5 x 1m threaded rod $12.10
4 of 20m-2.5 nut $2.19
1 of 1/8"x2"x48" steel flat $12.99
cutting charge (to cut threaded rod) $10.00

I already had spray paint but if you needed that too you could get a can for around $7.00. You might also be able to cut the rod yourself and save the $10.00 cutting charge.

Only used 150mm of the threaded rod (but actually only needed around 120mm)
1m / 150mm = ~6 ------------ $12.10/6 = $2.02

Used just over a foot of steel flat
$12.99 / 3 = $4.33

So the total cost of my tow plate:
$2.02 (threaded rod)
$2.19 (4 nuts)
$4.33 (steel flat)
$10.00 (cutting charge)
-----------------------
$18.54 (actual cost of materials $37.28) with enough extra to make a couple more, aside from more nuts

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by greyseason

dude, this is awesome.Good work! I think ill be doing this on the weekend..

You said the threaded rod you used was M20 size? I think ill just bring in my tow hook to work and measure the width/thread

---

Ya on my 2010 it was an M20 but you should measure to be sure. It looks like different years have different sizes based on some other threads. If it is and you feel like taking a drive down to Hamilton I have a bunch of extra material (listed in my last post here) that I can help you out with. You'd only need to find some nuts, unless you want to do it a different way. Let me know!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RobertL

Ya on my 2010 it was an M20 but you should measure to be sure. It looks like different years have different sizes based on some other threads. If it is and you feel like taking a drive down to Hamilton I have a bunch of extra material (listed in my last post here) that I can help you out with. You'd only need to find some nuts, unless you want to do it a different way. Let me know!

---

dude that would be awesome. Ill shoot you a PM if i can get down there

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by greyseason

dude that would be awesome. Ill shoot you a PM if i can get down there

---

Actually I don't think I can do this weekend or the one after. I'm headed down to Alabama on a camping this this Saturday and won't be back until the next Sunday. If you want to wait though I could meet up after that? Let me know how that works for you!

sounds good man. Im not in any rush haha but if i end up doing it myself ill let you know

Great post. Bet it lasts longer than the rho version

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sawatsky

Great post. Bet it lasts longer than the rho version

---

Wouldn't doubt it at all - great job!

@greyseason

Pcloadletter and I confirmed the size in another thread ( pcloadletter started it) a few months ago.
I believe it was m20 but can't be sure.

@OP.
This was originally my idea, but couldn't source the rod. Good job.

Use a shorter bolt on the driver side, even better if you can make it flush, you'll see why when you nudge something or someone/something nudges you

I commend people on being innovative and creative, but I think this 'solution' is a bad idea.
One reason why the CP-E front plate (Gen1 at least), is a superior product is because the thread hole for the bolt, is the same as the factory tow hook. In the event your car needs a tow/pull you can retain the factory procedures.

Something like this, you can't. Someone needs the right tools to take it off, just to put the factory hook back on.

Safety > Cosmetics

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lockdown

Use a shorter bolt on the driver side, even better if you can make it flush, you'll see why when you nudge something or someone/something nudges you

---

+1. Ask me how I know.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lockdown

Use a shorter bolt on the driver side, even better if you can make it flush, you'll see why when you nudge something or someone/something nudges you

---

I was thinking of that too. Has anyone had issues with bumping something that would normally just leave mild bumper damage turn out terrible since the frame is connected to the plate?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gizzmo_jr

I commend people on being innovative and creative, but I think this 'solution' is a bad idea.
One reason why the CP-E front plate (Gen1 at least), is a superior product is because the thread hole for the bolt, is the same as the factory tow hook. In the event your car needs a tow/pull you can retain the factory procedures.

Something like this, you can't. Someone needs the right tools to take it off, just to put the factory hook back on.

Safety > Cosmetics

---

I know what you mean. That's why my original design was similar to what I've seen some other people do there it's a length of rod connected to a coupling nut and then another bolt through the front so you could take it out and put the factory hook in. I'm thinking of running this for a little while I'm in the city and work on a new design in the meantime. But of course it would be best if I could afford a cp-e which looks like the best option I've seen reviewed.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RobertL

I might stop by the hardware store and look for some locking washers to put between the nuts and plate. I tightened them pretty good but the 1/8" plate is pretty heavy.

---

Maybe some threadlock will prevent loosening by vibrations.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gizzmo_jr

I commend people on being innovative and creative, but I think this 'solution' is a bad idea.
One reason why the CP-E front plate (Gen1 at least), is a superior product is because the thread hole for the bolt, is the same as the factory tow hook. In the event your car needs a tow/pull you can retain the factory procedures.

Something like this, you can't. Someone needs the right tools to take it off, just to put the factory hook back on.

Safety > Cosmetics

---

A quick question about this actually, does the cp-e plate let you thread the tow hook directly into the front of the plate? Or do you have to unbolt the plate section of the kit first? From the pictures I've found, it look like you have to remove the plate holder before you can thread the stock hook into the extension. If that's the case I think my set-up requires the same work, although with a different tool. With a 30mm wrench or adjustable wrench you can take the whole kit off.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RobertL

A quick question about this actually, does the cp-e plate let you thread the tow hook directly into the front of the plate? Or do you have to unbolt the plate section of the kit first? From the pictures I've found, it look like you have to remove the plate holder before you can thread the stock hook into the extension. If that's the case I think my set-up requires the same work, although with a different tool. With a 30mm wrench or adjustable wrench you can take the whole kit off.

---

Point taken and you are correct. A ??mm wrench to take out the bolt then you could (IIRC) thread in the factory tow hook. I always have a mini-tool set in my undercargo portion of my hatch, small sockets/pliers/multi wrench set.

A tow operator might not know to use the nut they took off and use it as a jam nut, to remove the entire apparatus.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gizzmo_jr

Point taken and you are correct. A ??mm wrench to take out the bolt then you could (IIRC) thread in the factory tow hook. I always have a mini-tool set in my undercargo portion of my hatch, small sockets/pliers/multi wrench set.

A tow operator might not know to use the nut they took off and use it as a jam nut, to remove the entire apparatus.

---

Ah that's true, it's sort of a tricky removal technique with the jam nut. I'm actually considering chopping the inside end of the threaded rod down by about an inch since it's a little long and, after finalizing the dimensions of the mount, either red loctite or maybe tack weld the nuts in place. It would save a nut on the inside and essentially make the outside nut bolt head. Would allow me to paint the rod as well with nuts in fixed positions.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sawatsky

Great post. Bet it lasts longer than the rho version

---

now now, my rho has been on and off my car for the last year no problems ever. and it was second hand from justin.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by standsideways

now now, my rho has been on and off my car for the last year no problems ever. and it was second hand from justin.

---

I wasn't bad-mouthing the RHO plate really. If you know how to apply loctite it works great. I'm just saying this looks very heavy duty.

Looks very sturdy indeed.

Just an update on the tow plate if anyone was looking to make their own.

I used it for a day unpainted to see if I needed to add lock washers or anything and it felt sturdy enough, even with some rough roads. It rusted pretty quickly though, so I took it off to paint.

I took the lock nuts off and instead just mixed up some JB weld and put it on the threads before threaded the nuts into place. Used like thread locker, it feels super sturdy and I don't think it's ever coming apart.
I painted all the parts with 2-3 coats of spray rust paint after taping off the ends of the rod where it threaded into the car and the nut on the front.

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/...psa5b1cd4e.jpg

Here's the finished product on the car. It's been holding up no problem, and the paint acts a little like a lock washer and I haven't had any spinning issues. I can even push on it decently hard without it moving. It's survived a drive to Alabama and back so I'm pretty sure it's going to last.

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4d1e3118.jpg

Let me know if you're interested in making one since I have some extra material left. EastYork3 also posted a FS thread with some material that ended up being the wrong size for his '09. I guess my threaded rod only fits '10s.

Looks awesome dude, I've seen it in person and it's very sturdy. The rod I have should fit anything 2009 and up. I have a 2008 Gen1 which takes a M16 thread, I guess Gen2 went to an M20 threading for tow hooks.