mikey32235's ride thread

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Originally Posted by MarineMazda

You are luck Bluestreak is a nice guy and hasn't ripped you a new one.... At the torque you are making YOU WILL HAVE TORQUE STEER! you just hit this power level and you think you're use to it??? You can never fight torque steer it is always there an apparent....

I chuckle looking back at your posts a year ago and now that you have "built your motor and are making moderate power" you are the expert!

Just a word of advice be humble with what you have learned building a motor makes the car less reliable then ever. Pissing those that can help you off because you know better will hurt you in the future.


Between Bluestreak, Celestespeed, and myself we have built close to 7 motors in the past 8 months.

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dude! im not dissagreeing with people, im just saying i drove the car hard the past few days and ive been able to control it just fine. theres no need for that comment of yours. i just dont respect people who are *******s to me becasue of what i have accomplished or questions i have asked in the past. everyone has there own opinion and thats fine, but like ive said before if your going to be a dick to me about something just keep it to yourself. i dont wanna hear it,. but if you have solid advice that you think i can benifit from, along with others reading this thread then yes go a head and post it i would love to hear it.

thanks for everything so far guys :)

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Originally Posted by mikey32235

dude! im not dissagreeing with people, im just saying i drove the car hard the past few days and ive been able to control it just fine. theres no need for that comment of yours. i just dont respect people who are *******s to me becasue of what i have accomplished or questions i have asked in the past. everyone has there own opinion and thats fine, but like ive said before if your going to be a dick to me about something just keep it to yourself. i dont wanna hear it,. but if you have solid advice that you think i can benifit from, along with others reading this thread then yes go a head and post it i would love to hear it.

thanks for everything so far guys :)

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I am looking for new tires for this spring... What are you running?

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Originally Posted by MarineMazda

I am looking for new tires for this spring... What are you running?

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i was trying to get my hands on some RS3's but they were sold out in the size i wanted (255/40R17). so now i have nankang NS1. there really sticky from what i got to get out of them the previous dry day. what were you running before?

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Originally Posted by mikey32235

i was trying to get my hands on some RS3's but they were sold out in the size i wanted (255/40R17). so now i have nankang NS1. there really sticky from what i got to get out of them the previous dry day. what were you running before?

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Miley,

All the real speed guys run rcompound tires. You gotta stop buying that cheap Asian knockoffs bro. Keep it real.

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Originally Posted by mikey32235

i was trying to get my hands on some RS3's but they were sold out in the size i wanted (255/40R17). so now i have nankang NS1. there really sticky from what i got to get out of them the previous dry day. what were you running before?

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I am running Sailun SP-enis All Season R Comps

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Originally Posted by mikey32235

i was trying to get my hands on some RS3's but they were sold out in the size i wanted (255/40R17). so now i have nankang NS1. there really sticky from what i got to get out of them the previous dry day. what were you running before?

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how can those be sold out!?!?!? impossible! You get grip with nankang? in this cold weather...*mind blown*

the supplier where i get my tires from at cost only had 2 left. so i went with these ones. so when spring time comes around i will buy some r compounds :)

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Originally Posted by mikey32235

dude! im not dissagreeing with people, im just saying i drove the car hard the past few days and ive been able to control it just fine. theres no need for that comment of yours. i just dont respect people who are *******s to me becasue of what i have accomplished or questions i have asked in the past. everyone has there own opinion and thats fine, but like ive said before if your going to be a dick to me about something just keep it to yourself. i dont wanna hear it,. but if you have solid advice that you think i can benifit from, along with others reading this thread then yes go a head and post it i would love to hear it.

thanks for everything so far guys :)

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im = I'm
ive = I've
theres = there's
dont = don't
becasue = because
dissagreeing = disagreeing
benifit = benefit

Above benefiting post courtesy of fywdyl.

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Originally Posted by fywdyl

im = I'm
ive = I've
theres = there's
dont = don't
becasue = because
dissagreeing = disagreeing
benifit = benefit

Above benefiting post courtesy of fywdyl.

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lol :P

Good job on the car man, you have come a long way.

P.S.You don't need to take driving school lessons lol

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Originally Posted by Booostin

Good job on the car man, you have come a long way.

P.S.You don't need to take driving school lessons lol

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good to hear from ya anthony! thanks bro, haha yea i figured :P

hey guys quick question... so even before my engine build untill now... everytime i go to fill gas and i get back in my car to start it, it sounds like its going to shut right off it idles so low, sometimes i have to give it gas untill i start driving again to prevent it. tonight i filled up and when i started it, it died a few seconds after, sounded like it was chocking. but if i was just normally driving, and i would shut the car off and turn it on nothing happens. it only happens right after i fill gas for some reason. any idea why?

Spun bearing. If it was my car that would be the issue for sure.

lol, does anyone have an idea what it could be?

Man it could be anything.

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Originally Posted by mikey32235

lol, does anyone have an idea what it could be?

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Did you have to VCTS deleted with the build? and is it just when you cold start it/after it sits for a while?

Could be a symptom from the VCTS deletion if you had it done, which is fixed by pressing the gas pedal slightly down at start up. @mikey32235

edit: Second thought it might be a check valve in your fueling that has gone bad so you lose pressure when you remove the cap and fill so your car has to build it back up when you start it. That could be it but I am shooting in the dark lmao...

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Originally Posted by pwdunmore

Did you have to VCTS deleted with the build? and is it just when you cold start it/after it sits for a while?

Could be a symptom from the VCTS deletion if you had it done, which is fixed by pressing the gas pedal slightly down at start up. @mikey32235

edit: Second thought it might be a check valve in your fueling that has gone bad so you lose pressure when you remove the cap and fill so your car has to build it back up when you start it. That could be it but I am shooting in the dark lmao...

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what is the vcts? hmm... your second thought sounds more accurate, it only happens when i fill gas and i have to press the gas a few times to get it going again, then its fine. not a big issue for me but its good to see that it could be a possibility!

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Originally Posted by mikey32235

what is the vcts? hmm... your second thought sounds more accurate, it only happens when i fill gas and i have to press the gas a few times to get it going again, then its fine. not a big issue for me but its good to see that it could be a possibility!

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VCTS controls flaps which most people delete in the intake manifold, it consists long bar that goes through 3 of the runners (terminates before the last runner) and has 4 flaps (1 for each cylinder) that open and shut to allow more air flow when VVT comes on.

If you delete this for the added air flow (and to balance airflow as best as possible) it can make cold starts a little sputtery I am told. The flaps and bar normally get deleted for a PNP manifold.

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Originally Posted by pwdunmore

VCTS controls flaps which most people delete in the intake manifold, it consists long bar that goes through 3 of the runners (terminates before the last runner) and has 4 flaps (1 for each cylinder) that open and shut to allow more air flow when VVT comes on.

If you delete this for the added air flow (and to balance airflow as best as possible) it can make cold starts a little sputtery I am told. The flaps and bar normally get deleted for a PNP manifold.

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nope i definately still have that! lol, its got to be a loss in pressure for some reason.

tonight i removed my steering wheel and put on a momo team wheel. it feels awesome driving with it on! the only thing that i cant figure out is how to connect the horn :P and whats going to bother me driving around now is my airbag light and traction light is on... hopefully i can clear it with the snap-on computer at work..

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...02309856_n.jpg

looks good dude glad it worked :)

Finally! lmao... I was gonna chirp you for the wheel but I held back :P

Looks good though, hope you have working horn because I have heard horror stories from tickets to accidents.

I want to find a used longblock to start a build now lol...

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Originally Posted by mikey32235

tonight i removed my steering wheel and put on a momo team wheel. it feels awesome driving with it on! the only thing that i cant figure out is how to connect the horn :P and whats going to bother me driving around now is my airbag light and traction light is on... hopefully i can clear it with the snap-on computer at work..

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dont think you would be able to clear the air bag light.. pretty sure it would need an air bag to clear it.. but take the bulb out. poof lights are gone

lol :P yup i got help with the horn wiring and it works great. call standard auto wreckers or japanese imports im sure u can find one for $400.

You just need a 2ohm 1/4W resistor in place of the airbag. The light will stay off, provided its not tripped for any other airbag sensor.

When I swapped my seat I had codes for missing airbag, missing seat position sensor and missing weight sensor.

Why is your TC light on after you swapped the wheel?

Which steering wheel adapter did you use?

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Originally Posted by CelestSpeed3

You just need a 2ohm 1/4W resistor in place of the airbag. The light will stay off, provided its not tripped for any other airbag sensor.

When I swapped my seat I had codes for missing airbag, missing seat position sensor and missing weight sensor.

Why is your TC light on after you swapped the wheel?

Which steering wheel adapter did you use?

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the only one that will fit for the wheel is a momo adaptor. i got the one made for our cars. had to remove the clock-spring to fit it unfortunately. no clue why traction came on.

http://www.oddwires.com/1-4w-0-25w-1...2-ohm-25-pack/ this is what i need? what the hell do i do with this haha

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Originally Posted by mikey32235

the only one that will fit for the wheel is a momo adaptor. i got the one made for our cars. had to remove the clock-spring to fit it unfortunately. no clue why traction came on.

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my nrg hub fits over my clock spring... did you end up losing your turn signal auto off things?

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Originally Posted by mikey32235

http://www.oddwires.com/1-4w-0-25w-1...2-ohm-25-pack/ this is what i need? what the hell do i do with this haha

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lmao, solder it to the airbag plug

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Originally Posted by schmat66

my nrg hub fits over my clock spring... did you end up losing your turn signal auto off things?

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my NRG hubs center bore is too small for my momo wheel to fit the horn so i returned it at bought the momo hub. had to remove clock spring, yea clicky thing is gone lol but i dont mind.

question...

today i was doing a WOT and i felt some mis-firing, sure enough i got the code random misfire... i have a feeling it has to do with the purge valve solenoid that needs replacing. any thoughts?

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Originally Posted by mikey32235

question...

today i was doing a WOT and i felt some mis-firing, sure enough i got the code random misfire... i have a feeling it has to do with the purge valve solenoid that needs replacing. any thoughts?

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Didn't you say this in the random MS3 thread? I think you could be right but there is only one way to tell lol... Could be old plugs but I would think you have new ones in your engine since it's new.

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Originally Posted by pwdunmore

Didn't you say this in the random MS3 thread? I think you could be right but there is only one way to tell lol... Could be old plugs but I would think you have new ones in your engine since it's new.

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i meantioned the purge valve in random lol, not this this is a new update from today :P the plugs only had 10,000km on it they were the IVT22's... not sure if one is defective or not, it drives fine even when theres boost its good, i only had it happen once and i have no idea why. probalby gonna starrt with the purge valve and go from there

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Originally Posted by mikey32235

i mentioned the purge valve in random lol, not this this is a new update from today :P the plugs only had 10,000km on it they were the IVT22's... not sure if one is defective or not, it drives fine even when there's boost its good, i only had it happen once and i have no idea why. probably gonna start with the purge valve and go from there

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Plugs only last ~12k in these cars when running more boost, I got to replace mine this year.

info link:
https://cobbtuning.zendesk.com/hc/en...ug-Information

hmm, never knew that! should i be putting in the 1 step colder. or two? will it effect my tune/performance if i go a step colder?

update: just ordered an oem purge valve solenoid from mazda.

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Originally Posted by pwdunmore

Plugs only last ~12k in these cars when running more boost, I got to replace mine this year.

info link:
https://cobbtuning.zendesk.com/hc/en...ug-Information

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not to take anything away from Cobb but I ran OEM, stock, from the factory NGK plugs in my engine for 90,000+ kms. Half of that was Stage 2 @ 20psi (no meth)

When they were pulled from the motor, they were still good and the gap across all of them were still within spec.

NGK > Denso

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Originally Posted by MajesticBlueNTO

not to take anything away from Cobb but I ran OEM, stock, from the factory NGK plugs in my engine for 90,000+ kms. Half of that was Stage 2 @ 20psi (no meth)

When they were pulled from the motor, they were still good and the gap across all of them were still within spec.

NGK > Denso

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i never had a problem with the oem, i still have the plugs. but my question is that if im tuned will it effect my car if i change plugs?

i changed the purge valve and the spark plugs the other day, everytime at startup (cold) the car feels like its misfiring for like 10 seconds then it stops. i havent gotten a code but its driving me nuts! anyone have an idea where to go next? i feel like it may be the coil pack but i dont wanna keep changing things if i dont know forsure. any ideas?

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Originally Posted by mikey32235

i changed the purge valve and the spark plugs the other day, everytime at startup (cold) the car feels like its misfiring for like 10 seconds then it stops. i havent gotten a code but its driving me nuts! anyone have an idea where to go next? i feel like it may be the coil pack but i dont wanna keep changing things if i dont know forsure. any ideas?

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Spray the top of each coil with a bit of water. One by one. If it acts up. Thats the bad one. Or check them for hairline cracks