I hear he's really really smart.
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This weekend is the Georgian College Auto show, i will be representing Volvo Newmarket, if anyone is gonna be down there, come by! gonna be an awesome weekend.
245/45/17 tire with a 45+ 17/9 rim, will I need a roll?
I researched a bit on msf but wanted to ask TM3 too, my buddy works at a tire shop so he was gonna hook me up :)
Corksport Group Buy if any of you sluts want something:
http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/sh...port-KW-Region
Someone please recommend me a solution permanently fix my w-h-h-h-h-h-h-h-h-h-h-h-h-eel hop-p-p-p-p-p-p-p-p-p-p-p-p-p-p problem.
I'm assuming just a RMM won't cut it.
I hopped so hard at the track today that my change bounced and flew all over the place, as well as the top of my air freshener.
I was at the drag strip.. Tried everything.. DSC on was a disaster. Feathering the clutch helped a bit but I'd hop at the end of 1st and hop again shifting into 2nd.
Best I could run was a 13.7(Full stage 2 OTS) with abysmal 60' times of 2.2-2.4. I was trapping anywhere from 104-106mph.
Wheel hop is just going to be replaced with wheel spin if you go with a full set of mounts.
Better rubber will help if you can keep them from letting go.
Ditch the OTS tune with something that is more linear and enable LC and FFS.
225/40/18 Hankook ventus V12 on XXR 527 wheels.
I was running at a 2900RPM LC the whole time and FFS at 6700RPM.. My last few runs I switched to map without LC and FFC enabled.. Still ran a 13.7
I'd honestly rather have wheelspin than the violent wheel hop I was experiencing today... It's weird, the wheel hop came along with my DP.. Never experienced wheel hop before the DP.
I'll definitely need a good tune..
I thought I'd run better times than 13.7 with my mods (SRI, TIH, TBE, FMIC, HPFP, OTS stage 2). Looks like this is where the drivetrain/suspension mods come into play.
FFS at 6700RPM is too high...that's essentially redline, you want it closer to where the revs end up after the shift.
With the downpipe and going to the stage 2 maps you gain a substantial amount of power...wheel spin in 2nd is more possible.
Interestingly enough I'm around the same level of mods (see sig) and so long as the surface isn't wet, I don't get wheel hop at all even though I can easily break loose in 2nd from a roll and occasionally see the traction control light flash in 3rd on dry pave. Mind you this isn't on a drag strip but this is without any suspension mods that will help and just a soft RMM and good tires (even the stock dunlops I didn't have issues with wheel hop though).
Interesting.. Is there any reason as to why you went with a soft RMM? How harsh is it? I'm on stock mounts due to long commutes but I'm really considering upgrading.
I have a set of coilovers sitting in the garage which will probably help out.
It's just a 60 duro but still WAY better than the stock RMM. I went with the softer one because it's my daily driver and didn't want it to be too annoying. After a week or two you don't even notice the vibes or they're basically all gone. Definitely worth while and given you're already stage 2 your exhaust setup is far more annoying than the RMM would ever be. The cp-e stage 2 mount is supposed to be even better.
Stocker:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n..._3032029_n.jpg
Cp-e Stage 1 60 duro:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n..._7901902_n.jpg
OP, replace motor mounts with stiffer mounts and buy good r compound tires.
Great info in here. Thanks for the help!