Random MS3 Chat Thread

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Originally Posted by loki

Your car is slow enough to do 3rd gear logs. No offence.

also why would you need to redo logs? You either had your foot to the floor or you didn't. Don't need the AP or a column in excel to tell you that

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No offence taken. I know the potential of the car and understand that at Stage 1 with no mods it's not what most of the guys on this forum would consider fast. I was mostly just going to redo them so that I know for sure they were done properly and the pedal was at 99% the whole time.

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Originally Posted by loki

Also alot of stuff has changed since that guide was written

its a good read but don't take it as gospel

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Ok cool, thanks for the heads up. Any other recommended readings while I'm at it?

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Originally Posted by pwdunmore

That is the throttle position, the pedal position should show as 99 and the throttle as 76 or so... you are fine.

Watch your AFR and Fuel pressure.

LTFT should be dialed in with a MAF calibration to as close to +/-5% if possible.

Knock will pop up here and there but as long as you don't get spikes on pulls your engine is most likely healthy.

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Thanks Pat. Fuel pressure should be at what? 1650-1700+ at WOT? What should my AFR be reading on stock trim?

So far knock is all reading 0 which is seemingly good.

Thanks for the help guys.

Depends on the map but AFR is around 11 at WOT, might taper a bit richer towards redline.

Fuel pressure needs to be 1600+ always, doesn't really matter so long as it always stays above that line on stock fuel pump.

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Originally Posted by dexter

No offence taken. I know the potential of the car and understand that at Stage 1 with no mods it's not what most of the guys on this forum would consider fast. I was mostly just going to redo them so that I know for sure they were done properly and the pedal was at 99% the whole time.



Ok cool, thanks for the heads up. Any other recommended readings while I'm at it?



Thanks Pat. Fuel pressure should be at what? 1650-1700+ at WOT? What should my AFR be reading on stock trim?

So far knock is all reading 0 which is seemingly good.

Thanks for the help guys.

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Originally Posted by SomeGuy

Depends on the map but AFR is around 11 at WOT, might taper a bit richer towards redline.

Fuel pressure needs to be 1600+ always, doesn't really matter so long as it always stays above that line on stock fuel pump.

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SomeGuy is right, just watch to make sure you are close to AFR targets, you can check in ATR what it is set to and then see what you are actually hitting on pulls.

You will be off slightly (hitting 10.8 instead of 11, that is normal and can be changed so you hit targets) mainly because you aren't dialed in yet which will take some MAF calibrations with 2nd gear and some WOT calibrations to adjust the rest of the power band.

Rich spikes will lower FP, KR dumps fuel to reduce knock also reducing FP so just keep and eye out for it falling below 1600 @ WOT, if you get some internals for the HPFP I am happy to help you install them. Done 3 pumps and I got the tools already so it's became routine for me lol.

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Originally Posted by SomeGuy

Depends on the map but AFR is around 11 at WOT, might taper a bit richer towards redline.

Fuel pressure needs to be 1600+ always, doesn't really matter so long as it always stays above that line on stock fuel pump.

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Great, thanks for the help!

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Originally Posted by pwdunmore

SomeGuy is right, just watch to make sure you are close to AFR targets, you can check in ATR what it is set to and then see what you are actually hitting on pulls.

You will be off slightly (hitting 10.8 instead of 11, that is normal and can be changed so you hit targets) mainly because you aren't dialed in yet which will take some MAF calibrations with 2nd gear and some WOT calibrations to adjust the rest of the power band.

Rich spikes will lower FP, KR dumps fuel to reduce knock also reducing FP so just keep and eye out for it falling below 1600 @ WOT, if you get some internals for the HPFP I am happy to help you install them. Done 3 pumps and I got the tools already so it's became routine for me lol.

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Thanks for the extra insight into AFR targets - I'd love to check in ATR... Too bad they don't have it for Mac yet. I'll have to look into finding a PC to put it on. I'll keep an eye on my logs regarding AFR and FP and I'll definitely keep you in mind for the internals install when the time comes (probably not until the spring), thanks for the offer!

Use bootcamp to install windows and then you can have ATR

Man just one thing after another...

I think my clutch is slipping. I'm not sure, because I've never experienced it before, but I was rowing through the gears and the rpm would shoot right up and I'd have to switch gears pretty fast to keep from over-revving. I was from 0 to about 100 km and I was already in 4th gear. Any clutch/flywheel recommendations? OEM or aftermarket?

TIA again.

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Originally Posted by fywdyl

Man just one thing after another...

I think my clutch is slipping. I'm not sure, because I've never experienced it before, but I was rowing through the gears and the rpm would shoot right up and I'd have to switch gears pretty fast to keep from over-revving. I was from 0 to about 100 km and I was already in 4th gear. Any clutch/flywheel recommendations? OEM or aftermarket?

TIA again.

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My recommendation:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...talled-152140/

He mentions a three of brands (CP-e, ACT and SBC) so you could see if any of them fit your needs, I doubt you need this stage 3 like he installed but you could get one of the lower staged ones.

I haven't heard great things about ACT drivability (I could be wrong so it would be better if someone spoke from experience) but they do put down the power, these OEM clutches aren't that bad considering they are OEM. You have a tough choice to make and I'm really interested in what you choose and your results. Sucks that it's already slipping but you are putting out numbers that would cause that lol...

Depending on weather, I've had experienced what I thought was clutch slip...it happened once and I thought it was that [there's a bit of weird pride/irony/sad faced involved....you're happy you're making enough power to slip the clutch...yet it'll cost you $$ to replace...]

However, I was not able to replicate it again, and it came down to a slightly slick surface on an otherwise dry road, low evening temps and older tires.

Do the clutch slip test...

http://www.wikihow.com/Diagnose-a-Sl...ch-in-Your-Car

I believe my upgraded clutch is the Spec Stg3+. After break-in, it has a nice stock-like feel and I know it can take anything I'm capable of throwing at it.

With traction control turned on, would it blink (gen 2's have an indicator not sure about 1's) from the clutch slipping or only when the tires actually slip? If so, could be an easy way to see if it's the road or not.

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Originally Posted by pwdunmore

My recommendation:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...talled-152140/

He mentions a three of brands (CP-e, ACT and SBC) so you could see if any of them fit your needs, I doubt you need this stage 3 like he installed but you could get one of the lower staged ones.

I haven't heard great things about ACT drivability (I could be wrong so it would be better if someone spoke from experience) but they do put down the power, these OEM clutches aren't that bad considering they are OEM. You have a tough choice to make and I'm really interested in what you choose and your results. Sucks that it's already slipping but you are putting out numbers that would cause that lol...

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Thanks Pat. I quickly read through that and it seems like SBC is well liked by those that own it. I will do further research on that and report back when I have decided.

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Originally Posted by Fobio

Depending on weather, I've had experienced what I thought was clutch slip...it happened once and I thought it was that [there's a bit of weird pride/irony/sad faced involved....you're happy you're making enough power to slip the clutch...yet it'll cost you $$ to replace...]

However, I was not able to replicate it again, and it came down to a slightly slick surface on an otherwise dry road, low evening temps and older tires.

Do the clutch slip test...

http://www.wikihow.com/Diagnose-a-Sl...ch-in-Your-Car

I believe my upgraded clutch is the Spec Stg3+. After break-in, it has a nice stock-like feel and I know it can take anything I'm capable of throwing at it.

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It happened a few times in the past before, but that was def weather/tires related, but last night right after it happened I had burning clutch smell. In the past I thought I was just over reacting because it doesn't slip when I do a single gear pull. Last night was prob one of the first times I actually went through all the gears HARD, ha ha.

I will give the clutch test a try tomorrow. Thanks for the info and the link Vince!

p.s. - I will get back to logging as soon as I fix up the sway bar brackets. Have been super busy with moving and studying and my road in Mexico being closed.

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Originally Posted by SomeGuy

With traction control turned on, would it blink (gen 2's have an indicator not sure about 1's) from the clutch slipping or only when the tires actually slip? If so, could be an easy way to see if it's the road or not.

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Yeah, I didn't dare try again because of the burning smell, but will report back once I have done those tests.

Thanks for all your help gentlemen.

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Originally Posted by fywdyl

Man just one thing after another...

I think my clutch is slipping. I'm not sure, because I've never experienced it before, but I was rowing through the gears and the rpm would shoot right up and I'd have to switch gears pretty fast to keep from over-revving. I was from 0 to about 100 km and I was already in 4th gear. Any clutch/flywheel recommendations? OEM or aftermarket?

TIA again.

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Try the clutch slip test first to confirm.

Vince and I have the -->Spec Stage 3+ Self-Ratcheting<-- clutch mated to the stock Dual Mass flywheel.

Something to consider, if you go with a clutch kit that mates to the dual mass flywheel, you will need to either 1) get your stock DMF machined or 2) get a new OEM DMF ($1400). Like a brake rotor, for optimal performance, the flywheel surface should be new or machined to get the clutch material to mate properly. Seeing as the cost is so high for a new OEM one, the easiest thing is to get a shop to machine the DMF.

Which is also why kits that come with a single mass flywheel are more popular. You don't have to worry about machining or replacing the stock DMF....and, overall, they are cheaper.

Then there's the argument of keeping the DMF for driveability as the weight of it keeps the interia higher so the engine rpms don't fall as fast during shifts...there is also the fact that the DMF absorbs some of the torque, reducing shift shock to the transmission.

Ultimately, drive one with an aftermarket clutch and a SMF and also one with a DMF and decide which one is more to your liking. You can always give mine a try, just give me a heads-up as it is parked right now ;)

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Originally Posted by MajesticBlueNTO

Try the clutch slip test first to confirm.

Vince and I have the -->Spec Stage 3+ Self-Ratcheting<-- clutch mated to the stock Dual Mass flywheel.

Something to consider, if you go with a clutch kit that mates to the dual mass flywheel, you will need to either 1) get your stock DMF machined or 2) get a new OEM DMF ($1400). Like a brake rotor, for optimal performance, the flywheel surface should be new or machined to get the clutch material to mate properly. Seeing as the cost is so high for a new OEM one, the easiest thing is to get a shop to machine the DMF.

Which is also why kits that come with a single mass flywheel are more popular. You don't have to worry about machining or replacing the stock DMF....and, overall, they are cheaper.

Then there's the argument of keeping the DMF for driveability as the weight of it keeps the interia higher so the engine rpms don't fall as fast during shifts...there is also the fact that the DMF absorbs some of the torque, reducing shift shock to the transmission.

Ultimately, drive one with an aftermarket clutch and a SMF and also one with a DMF and decide which one is more to your liking. You can always give mine a try, just give me a heads-up as it is parked right now ;)

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Awesome info! So much stuff to learn in just a few short posts from you guys. You guys ROCK!

Ya, thanks for the info guys. @MajesticBlueNTO @Fobio

Just reading this stuff myself gives me some information to start researching on my own about all these different types of cluthes and flywheels.

I'm late to the party on this, so I don't have much to add. I will say that I have an ACT clutch kit on my other car, and find the drivability just fine. Actually I found it much easier than the stock clutch. I've been impressed with the quality and performance of it as well, so I can certainly recommend ACT as a brand from my own experience.

OK, took it for a drive just now, doesn't seem like it is slipping from the slip tests:

1) Change in the clutch pedal height where the driver feels the clutch begin to engage. (this does feel a little "off", but I drive it everyday, so I may be getting used to the subtle changes)
2) Still smells
3) Has a bit of travel, so it's fine
4) Can't do this, need to take it apart
5) Did the 3rd to 2nd gear thing, rpms do go up, so no issues there
Did the parking lot test, popped it in 2nd, slowly let the clutch out and it brought the rpms down and wanted to stall, so seems fine to me

I'll have to see if I can replicate it again when the road dries up a bit.

I can join in this chat again.. yay!!

Having said that.. I placed an order for an AP, autotech.internals, intake and TIP.. pretty stoked.. ;)

^^^ AP V3?

Yes sir..

I want V3

It's so pretty.

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Originally Posted by loki

I want V3

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You can have mine for $700.00.

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Originally Posted by Fack_Dude

You can have mine for $700.00.

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Ok

when can we meet up?

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Originally Posted by loki

Ok

when can we meet up?

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tonight. Bring 20's no 100s or 50s.

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Originally Posted by loki

Ok

when can we meet up?

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Then stop by with my shift knob ;)

I'm starting to get the shakes from Boost withdrawal... Should have my speed back by the end of this week if all goes well.

Anyone else had to deal with extended separation from their speed? It'll be 4 weeks on thursday...