Rotors replacement after 68,000 km is this normal ?

Ok if Im not breaking any rules here, I might be accused of advertising for the guy.

Flex auto parts, you can search kijiji for their ad under cross drilled rotors, they are in many places here in the GTA I've been to 2 of their shops. They also go under the company name OCU which I think handles installation and otther performance parts.
Flex usually handle internet business I think, they are in 80 Dynamic Drive unit 13 sacrborough.

I love the cross drilled rotors and the new pads. It felt better braking compared to the old oem.

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Originally Posted by Broxn

looks great... although I'm not sure why you dont want to provide the seller of the product you bought, are you not happy with your purchase?

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In a sense he is right as to why he shouldn't be naming the seller. Since it is a Kijiji thing. Post it here. http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/sh...0-Kijiji-Deals

We have other sponsors who sell brakes for a good price too so they are options also.

Moderators, pls delete previous post if I posted illegal info here

Nah...I asked... My bad.
Hey..you live in Brooklin?

I don't think I've ever paid more than $300 for a set of brake pads and new rotors installed unless I was doing the fronts and the rears but usually the rears are good to at least 100,000km's, and yes the fronts wear quicker not the other way around. Mazda prices are ridiculous, just go to an independent shop that you trust or recommended by someone you know. Rotors are cheap and you don't have to get the bottom of the barrel kind either. Cross-drilled and slotted would be nice though! Just make sure you get good pads. You probably shouldn't be driving on warped, worn out or unevenly worn rotors as they will kill your pads faster. I just replaced the front brakes on my GT and I think I was at 85,000km's. If you are burning through pads/rotors you might have a bigger problem or you are really hard on your brakes of course. My old Z24 had issues with the calipers clamping too tight and not disengaging fast enough, I had to replace my brakes every year. Not sure if this is a concern for 3's though. It's quite normal to change both pads and rotors at the same time depending on your braking habits, but most will probably be able to burn two sets of pads before replacing the rotors especially on a vehicle with 4 wheel discs.

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Originally Posted by PearlM3

Sounds like a warped router, ask them if they can just machine them, it is MUCH cheaper

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How much is it to get a rotor machined approx?

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Originally Posted by Broxn

Nah...I asked... My bad.
Hey..you live in Brooklin?

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me? scarborough

OP, read up on the debate on the various rotor types (cross-drilled, slotted, blanks), and come to your own conclusion.

Joe @ MoT for the win if you choose blanks.

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Originally Posted by Fuman

OP, read up on the debate on the various rotor types (cross-drilled, slotted, blanks), and come to your own conclusion.

Joe @ MoT for the win if you choose blanks.

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Any advantage to buying OEM replacement blanks aftermarket from a sponsor than compared to the dealer?
After watching this thread and reading a few older ones, im seriously considering running hawk HPS and blanks

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Originally Posted by omalak

Any advantage to buying OEM replacement blanks aftermarket from a sponsor than compared to the dealer?
After watching this thread and reading a few older ones, im seriously considering running hawk HPS and blanks

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OEM = guarantee good fitment, and they have lasted for me. (60000 km per set).
i've used cheap blanks, and they caused me nothing but problems; bad fitment caused pedals to vibrate, and they warped after 1000km. Cheap blanks (a pair of fronts) saved me $30 in parts. In hindsight, it wasn't worth it, cause install costs money.

BTW, make sure you get the installer to sand down your hub (the contact patch between rotor and axle), otherwise even OEM rotors will cause pedal vibration.

+1 for no go on cheap blanks and pads.

you often don't save much (if at all through the life of the parts) and they often come with a little extra annoyances.

I stayed with OEM part coz of two reasons:
-First I don't have time to look for after market parts and fixing them if something goes wrong.
-Second negative feedback from people who have tried saving on non-OEM parts and ended up replacing rotors and pats twice.

OEM parts you say is better, but I had oemrotors and pads since I bought the car and it only lasted me 68K km. At half the price, if these aftermarket rotors and pads last me 50-60k km, I'll be happy. I opted to buy these because I want to know whether they are good or not, based on my visual quality inspection on 4 makes, im chose 1 over the rest. Besides It doesn't cause me intallation. I installed it myself.

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Originally Posted by wmzda5

OEM parts you say is better, but I had oemrotors and pads since I bought the car and it only lasted me 68K km. At half the price, if these aftermarket rotors and pads last me 50-60k km, I'll be happy. I opted to buy these because I want to know whether they are good or not, based on my visual quality inspection on 4 makes, im chose 1 over the rest. Besides It doesn't cause me intallation. I installed it myself.

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Great, your feedback is important. Keep us posted how those rotors and pads doing. If knew for sure these non-OEM parts are worth it I would most certainly buy them over OEM.
My respect to you that you are open to experiment.

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Originally Posted by HedonisT

Great, your feedback is important. Keep us posted how those rotors and pads doing. If knew for sure these non-OEM parts are worth it I would most certainly buy them over OEM.
My respect to you that you are open to experiment.

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1. These are low priced compared to what the dealership offers and I have a baseline reference on how long a "good" one last (68K). Mind you I could not stand the pulsating brakes even if it only happens when braking @100kph (needs more cooling)
2. Its even cheaper since I can install myself, wherein w/ dealer, its expensive. I I compare buying these over oem and installing both by myself, which the dealer will not guarantee because its a wear and tear part, whats the difference?
3. In this way I get to get it at a cheaper price @ almost half the price of only the front rotors parts and labor, I get to paint my calipers, its nickel chromium plated so no rust.
4. I get to inspect my brakes personally. My cousin, who regularly serviced his pristine 02 celica w/ toyota dealer was surpriced to find out that his caliper pins are all seized up. Thats what you call dealership quality.
5. You learn new things everyday with your mazda.

Another point, when you guys say that after breaking into a stop you have to let go off the brakes. How will you keep the car from rolling? I have a 5MT, E brake is also braking.

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Originally Posted by wmzda5

Another point, when you guys say that after breaking into a stop you have to let go off the brakes. How will you keep the car from rolling? I have a 5MT, E brake is also braking.

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You can't if you're on in incline.
I'm assuming people are releasing the brake pedal after they are completely stopped and they are on a flat surface.
Just one thing to remember that this is dangerous if someone rear ends you. So make sure traffic behind you is stopped before you let go of the pedal. I believe driving school teaches you to never let go until you're ready to move.

I never let go. If someebody rear ended me at least I will not hit the other guy in front of me. Anyways I think at least with the cross drilled rotors it will cool down more faster than oem, minimizing abrupt cooling via pad contact uneven cooling when stopped.

I am amazed that so many of you are being told to replace your rotors because of this vibration. I posted a couple of years ago about the same problem & in review when I checked the runout of the rotor it was OK, but the pads were worn at an angle, so I just popped in a new set of Hawk pads. I am now at 196K with the original rotors, they are still fine & haven't had any vibration at all.

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Originally Posted by Coaster

I am amazed that so many of you are being told to replace your rotors because of this vibration. I posted a couple of years ago about the same problem & in review when I checked the runout of the rotor it was OK, but the pads were worn at an angle, so I just popped in a new set of Hawk pads. I am now at 196K with the original rotors, they are still fine & haven't had any vibration at all.

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I guess it really depends on the situation, I also hate how the dealer automatically jumps to that conclusion. I have the same problem, I did however measure the thickness of the rotors when I was rotating the tires and mine are about 1mm thinner at some points.

What about Midas? They offer "lifetime brakes" or something... how does that work?

^^^^ Don't get sucked in by the lingo. You pay $$$$$ for parts and labour the first time, then with each brake replacement interval, you pay for pads and they'll throw them on for you.

can anyone recommend a good OEM replacmeent rotor manufacturer? I have seen Winhere, Aimco, Pilenga... is there a diff between any of them?

I'm going to go with HPS pads, but i want a GOOD set of blanks.. not something forged in China..

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Originally Posted by omalak

can anyone recommend a good OEM replacmeent rotor manufacturer? I have seen Winhere, Aimco, Pilenga... is there a diff between any of them?

I'm going to go with HPS pads, but i want a GOOD set of blanks.. not something forged in China..

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+1, I'm in the same boat. did you go for something?

i ended up going with aimco blanks, as those are the only blanks nextmod sold. Knowing nextmod would have a decent quality standard i got the blank rotos from there.

For pads i went with hawk hps. Just for a . I,ve been lazy finally getting them installed tomorrow lol..

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Originally Posted by HedonisT

I have had my Mazda 3 GT 07 model for a little more than two years now.

Never had any problems, tire rotation and maintenance every 8k.

Just had my tires changed coz they were worn out. Got nice set of v12 hankooks.

Did my first alignment.

And now two months later I noticed while driving on a highway 100km/h or faster when I am pressing breaks my steering wheel starts wobbling.

Did diagnostics today and I was told that it's time to change front break pads and the rotors coz they are 2.35 I think inch in width instead of 2.45
They lost me there... Correct me if I am wrong with measurements.

Anyway, I never heard anyone changing rotors together with the break pads...

Changing front rotors and set of pads is gonna cost me 500$

Should I do it or changing the pads should be enough to get rid of that wobble ?

Thanks for your help.

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You should ALWAYS replace rotors when replacing pads machining them causes them to get thin and more vulnerable to warp a heck of a lot faster.