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You can't if you're on in incline.Quote:
Originally Posted by wmzda5
I'm assuming people are releasing the brake pedal after they are completely stopped and they are on a flat surface.
Just one thing to remember that this is dangerous if someone rear ends you. So make sure traffic behind you is stopped before you let go of the pedal. I believe driving school teaches you to never let go until you're ready to move.
I never let go. If someebody rear ended me at least I will not hit the other guy in front of me. Anyways I think at least with the cross drilled rotors it will cool down more faster than oem, minimizing abrupt cooling via pad contact uneven cooling when stopped.
I am amazed that so many of you are being told to replace your rotors because of this vibration. I posted a couple of years ago about the same problem & in review when I checked the runout of the rotor it was OK, but the pads were worn at an angle, so I just popped in a new set of Hawk pads. I am now at 196K with the original rotors, they are still fine & haven't had any vibration at all.
I guess it really depends on the situation, I also hate how the dealer automatically jumps to that conclusion. I have the same problem, I did however measure the thickness of the rotors when I was rotating the tires and mine are about 1mm thinner at some points.Quote:
Originally Posted by Coaster
What about Midas? They offer "lifetime brakes" or something... how does that work?
^^^^ Don't get sucked in by the lingo. You pay $$$$$ for parts and labour the first time, then with each brake replacement interval, you pay for pads and they'll throw them on for you.
can anyone recommend a good OEM replacmeent rotor manufacturer? I have seen Winhere, Aimco, Pilenga... is there a diff between any of them?
I'm going to go with HPS pads, but i want a GOOD set of blanks.. not something forged in China..
+1, I'm in the same boat. did you go for something?Quote:
Originally Posted by omalak
i ended up going with aimco blanks, as those are the only blanks nextmod sold. Knowing nextmod would have a decent quality standard i got the blank rotos from there.
For pads i went with hawk hps. Just for a . I,ve been lazy finally getting them installed tomorrow lol..
You should ALWAYS replace rotors when replacing pads machining them causes them to get thin and more vulnerable to warp a heck of a lot faster.Quote:
Originally Posted by HedonisT
I'm on original rotors and pads (replaced by less brake dust model at 24,000 km by dealership). I'm at 144,000 km now and Jimmy inspected my brakes plus rotors saying I have at least 60% left on the pads. So yeah it does depend.
I recommend getting the cheapest rotors and the most expensive pads and do it yourself.
Please look up bedding brakes.
Jason mentioned this earlier in the thread but it doesn't look like many are listening.
I have dealt with "warped" rotors on a 3 and cx-9 by doing a fast bed and slower bed.
I have read that warped rotors is a myth, and after my experience I am believeing it.
You are semi right but let me explain. Rotors go through several heat cycles causing the metal to expand and retract. At work for warranty purposes we mike the rotors in 8 different spots sometimes 12 as warranty can be picky. Between those 12 spots the rotors are all different thicknesses. That is what causes your pulsations from the brakes.Quote:
Originally Posted by ryu
Please do not go running to the dealer asking for new rotors as we only do this to cars with certain mileages that are low and usually less then 5000km
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
Ok this is what I read, someone else linked it from a forum.
It is kind of long and as with all internet material I looked up other opinions and info, but in my case it saved me a lot of time and money.
I found two bedding procedures that people seem to agree with.
Get up to 100kph brake pretty hard to 60kph, repeat about 5 times.
Drive for a while to cool the brakes down.
Don't stop during this time.
The second one is to get up to 80kph and brake lightly down to 10kph, repeat 5 times.
Drive for a while to cool brakes down.
Don't stop during the procedure.
The pulsing on our cx-9 was really bad.
Hard braking at hwy speed would shake the whole vehicle.
I was looking up warped rotors and warranty experiences.
I did the two bedding procedures about a week apart and I went from hard pulsing to very light pulsing to no pulsing.
Now a couple months later still no pulsing.
Oh and so there is some relevance to this forum.
The 3 had only minor pulsing. Usable.
But after I had such success with the cx-9 I tried the 80-10kph bedding procedure on the 3 and the pulsing is completely gone now.
YMMV, but there is minimal cost and no waiting for your car etc.
Hopefully it works just as well for anyone out there with this problem.
i'm in need of replacing my rotors and pads. a friend recommended a setup he had before on his previous ride (BAER cross drilled and slotted rotors with KVR carbon pads). any comments for or against?
Wow! Simply amazing. I have replaced rotors at 26-50k kms on a 2007 Civic... My Mazda3 has yet to need them at 81k kms...Quote:
Originally Posted by Coaster
I got almost 100 000, and replaced them because I started to do events on the car. Otherwise, would have still been good for some time.
almost 30k km now on the cross drilled rotors and still running good. No pulsing wear on the rotors and pads checked weekly, mild rusting after wash and in the morning. I will update my experience when I reach 60k and so on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmzda5
The mild rusting from the moisture is normal. the pads are shaving down the rotors and causing the raw material to be exposed. the raw material naturally rusts. It is just a thin layer which does not harm as in the first few brake applications it wears away
same thing happened to me but i stayed with OEM parts because they should overall be more durable. The density of the metal should be a bit better then aftermarket parts.
Density of cast iron IS EQUAL whether OEM or aftermarket. One thing you musty be looking into when looking inti rotors, how they do the casting. Some aftermarket rotors have same casting design as OEM, some are different (better?) and also look for tell tale sign og bad quality on the casting like not smoolth casting surface.Quote:
Originally Posted by maz06
@ almost 100k now rotors and pads still ok. Have a slight sound when breaking byt not always (might need to lube the pins again, its @ 32k km now.