What would it take to swap the 2.5l into a gen 1?

Don't waste your time with a 2.5. It burned more gas then my speed does. Just get a 2.3 or a 2.0. I know you don't want a 2.0 but It is a great motor and it withstood 100k of Beating without any noises or burning oil. Back then I did 8k intervals. I did the timing mod and as stupid as it sounds it gave the car substantial more amount of power. It also helped alot that it was broken in very harsh right from day 1. Also keep in mind that with scrap yard engines there could be internal issues you do not know about. For example, my2.5l had a scrap yard motor in it (long story) and it had timing issues that were not triggering any engine lights but they had codes stored in the memory. My handheld scanners were not good enough to detect the codes though.

Looks like the same shit with the 2.3l fusion:

https://www.google.ca/search?q=ford+...sm=93&ie=UTF-8

I am moving jobs and won't drive as much as I used to, could care less about gas anymore. I've been buy two quarts almost each gas change until the engine just died.

There ARE 2.3l motors with issues... none with 2.0... none with 2.5 that ive come across and the 2.3 issues persist in the fusions (oil consumption).

Just not interested in another 2.3 and not going for a 2.0 the car is as slow as it is, and not getting an msp

Found this piece of information by contacting MSDS about the header differences between gen 1 and gen 2

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The gen 1- to- gen 2 header differences are locations of the 02 sensors, and a slight clearance divit in the down flex pipe. There is no egr fitting on either

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Originally Posted by a_ahmed

Looks like the same shit with the 2.3l fusion:

https://www.google.ca/search?q=ford+...sm=93&ie=UTF-8

I am moving jobs and won't drive as much as I used to, could care less about gas anymore. I've been buy two quarts almost each gas change until the engine just died.

There ARE 2.3l motors with issues... none with 2.0... none with 2.5 that ive come across and the 2.3 issues persist in the fusions (oil consumption).

Just not interested in another 2.3 and not going for a 2.0 the car is as slow as it is, and not getting an msp

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You should do some research first. Those links you posted are not indicating many issues AT ALL. Hell, the first one was user issue checking the oil "Well...after doing a little research and letting the car sit overnight in the garage, the oil consumption issue is not really an issue. In looking at the owners manual, there is only 1 correct way to insert the dipstick. If it isn't put in the proper orientation, a false reading will result (duh!). On the oil level check this am, it is half-way between the dots. I don't recall where the oil level was when we got it, but it may have been at or near that level. So...lesson learned. Read the owner's manual"

The 2.3L is not known for burning oil. You assume that after reading a few threads. Millions of motors sold, a couple forum posts, and suddenly its an issue thats widespread.

I agree with @midnightfxgt I have a 2008 2.3l Gt and I drive it pretty hard/spirited at times...and although I just passed 110,000k the engine runs like a charm, I get regular oil changes using the recommended standard oil. And no problems yet *knock on wood*

I had done a ton of research on the 2.3 Mazda 3 before I bought it because I wanted to be sure I was getting a reliable car, and I didn't find many complaints (aside from common rust problems, and the passenger rear motor mount)

There is likely some other reason the motors keep blowing other than it being a "POS" motor which it isn't...The fact that you think the car is "slow enough already" And that your main reason for not wanting a 2.0l is that it won't be fast enough gives some decent insight into where the problem could be stemming from...Yes the 3 as fast as a Ferrari, but it isn't a slouch either...it can be a quick little car.

You clicked on one link and that was ironically a 2.5l fusion when in fact it was someone not reading the manual on the dipstick, all the other ones are in fact were burning oil issues for the 2.3l. Anyways 'a few links' sorry but this bullshit about 2.3 motors not having issues is bullshit.

Anyways don't give a damn, not getting a shit 2.3 ever again plus its overpriced. "millions of motors", actually the 2.3 is not that common.

I'm sourcing the info and parts slowly. 2.5 is cheaper to get and newer.

I am at like 160K KM, 60K KM of that is with boost, and no issues.

35 cases called into the APA (not the MILLIONS you claim lol) vs millions of these motors sold, pretty easy math. If it was a REAL issue, you would see pages full in your google search link ;)

http://www.blueovalforums.com/forums...n-ford-fusion/

http://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic...did-my-oil-go/

http://community.cartalk.com/discuss...-fusion-engine

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=377727

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=309698

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=372828

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=208698

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=396712

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=316562

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthre...=396298&page=2

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=372543

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=354716

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=258894

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=379064

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=384609

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=245059

Anyways I can keep copy pasting threads of engine failures and oil consumption with the 2.3 on and on and on, every single response by everyone is 'oh its not a problem'. For the last ten years almost. Well clearly it is. With people experiencing the same garbage I experienced and everyone including mazda and mazda dealerships in denial.

The 2.0 no problems, 2.3 turbo no problems like it, and the 2.5 no problems either, just the 2.3 on repeat.


Everyone's response over the years "oh i have no problems" well great.

http://www.mazda3club.com/showthread.php?t=56735

All the time the same responses oh i have no problem and i havent seen that many blown motors or no motors that burn oil yet... its always the same. Sorry I don't buy this shit.

It's always undermined and denied but it's all over the net:

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0cbca4

So many people asking the same questions about oil burning and engine failures and getting the same denials as if mazda has its own trolls to deny this.

Really makes no difference I'm not spending another penny on a 2.3 Two low mileage engines blown with regular 4-5k oil changes and all highway driven.

You don't get it. Thats OK. :)

I guess the 2.5L is riddled with the same problem:

http://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/mazd...3-2-5-a-27273/
http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/sh...f-oil-after-4K


Finding a dozen (or even 3!) people/posts with an issue do not indicate an issue. You don;t like the 2.3L, and thats fine. However, spouting off about something as fact, when it is not proven... well, its comical.

-John

^Oh I get it, money pit pile of garbage engine

I've owned so far 10 cars and a dedicated track car, and none gave me as much drama as the mz3.

http://www.aerohill.com/wp/listing/2005-mazda-3-2-3l/

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/sh...oil-per-1000km

You can find 50 threads. Offset that with the number of units sold, and you still dont have a leg to stand on.

By your theory, the 2.5L has issues too. I posted a couple links. Factor in less of them sold, its about the same LOL.

Anyways, wasted enough time. You want to think there is a problem, knock yourself out :)

I FINALY got all the damn aprts even though i ordered xmas time.

Now about to get engine

but one guy is tleling me while the block will work head will not.

I need some urgent information as to why it wouldnt and what it would take to make work...

possibly the heads will be to tall for the engine bay?
if so, think bmw m3 hood bulge to fix that, or scoop scoop scoop

One of the improvements on the 2.5 engine are the revised heads with bigger valves... so I would hate to use anything else.

One of the things that I intended my mechanic to do from what i read was swap the manifold and sensors off the old engine onto the 2.5 and the oil pan as apparently they are different.

But lets say I was going to use all of it, would all i need then be the engine harness and ecu from a 2010+ mazda3 or fusion?

Im thinking back to the speed3sedan.

He had to have speed USDM specific(american motor) abs sensors/ecu/... to get his motor to turn over

I've found this thread:

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/sh...29#post1144229

It seems swapping between 2.0, 2.3 and 2.5 is pretty common with the mx-5 guys.

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Originally Posted by greyseason

Im thinking back to the speed3sedan.

He had to have speed USDM specific(american motor) abs sensors/ecu/... to get his motor to turn over

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Hey bro, what do you mean? This is a 2.3 NA to 2.5 NA swap thread.

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Originally Posted by a_ahmed

Hey bro, what do you mean? This is a 2.3 NA to 2.5 NA swap thread.

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Im just saying you might need to buy 2.5 abs sensor along with the ECU. You might not ber able to just pull the 2.3, drop in the 2.5

Okay so a 2011-2012 Fusion 2.5 non-hybrid 2.5 engine is in my gen 1.

The good stuff:

-There is no need for oil conversion kit as for the 2.3 (which comes standard with the crappy catridge filter), it already comes with the plate for the standard oil filter.

-It was a direct bolt in.

-Oil pan was swapped from 2.3 to the 2.5 block

-Belt tensioner had to be slightly modified and adjusted, slight bit from head shaved for belt to run and not touch.

-All the sensors plugged straight in except for the 'runners' which are missing on the fusion engine.

-Used gen 1 msds header.

-Had to rewire some capacitor (my friend couldn't remember what exactly nothing major)

-Had to rewire temperature sensor

Now the problems and the codes:

We're using the 2.5 intake (which I was advised is better and good for 10hp compared to the 2.3 intake)

-Cyinder 1 and 4 are not firing.

-Extra wiring for runners since there are no runners throw an intake runners code.

-Intake pressure code

-Throttle body TPS circuit A & Circuit B correlation sensor is plugged in throwing a code. The throttle body is different but the old throttle body won't fit on the new intake.

So the codes are mostly due to the new intake and no runners on the new intake. But the major issue I want resolved first is why aren't cylinder 1 and 4 firing? I think if they start firing that it should start running proper.

Oh yes one more thing, had to use the 2010+ o2 sensor, the old one did not work or something like that, what my buddy said.

I can probably guess your problem is with the reluctor wheel on the crank pulley. I am almost positive it is different and that is what could be your firing problem. The intake runners should not effect the starting it running of the car.

Also I believe the throttle codes are related to the throttle pedal. Not The the body. The resistance values may be different between gen 1 and gen 2

i really don't think swapping motors is a good idea because of the problems you can potentially encounter. better just to stick with the stock and if that motor f's off just get another stock. much easier

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Originally Posted by jay93

i really don't think swapping motors is a good idea because of the problems you can potentially encounter. better just to stick with the stock and if that motor f's off just get another stock. much easier

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to late, OP already has the engine in da whip