wait a minute I just realized something....
does this mean you're going to postwhore the speed section now Phil?
faaawwwwwk
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wait a minute I just realized something....
does this mean you're going to postwhore the speed section now Phil?
faaawwwwwk
ok time to get that STI
you with me fast_dude? :chuckle
Yeah, NOW they release it. They've been teasing the manifold since I purchased my HPFP 2 years ago. Looks well built, like all their stuff.
@breakfasteatre Are you getting a JBR pMM?
Hey my turbo setup.
My mani has been ordered already.
Pretty sure B.E. is running the TRZ tranny mount as well.
Was too lazy to spell it out. You'll have to let me know how the JBR PMM is. I'd like to replace the side mounts and the CP-E stuff is $570 before any sort of shipping/duties etc. JBR is way cheaper.
Yeah, I'd be interested to hear about the JBR PMM, might help to take some of the strain off my RMM. I still keep thinking my CPE RMM (75 duro) is going to go bust one day, it already has and got replaced under warranty... but still!
To be fair, it was blamed on a bad batch of the rubber, and it was 65 durometer when I first bought it (the replacement came back as a 75a). Still haven't heard any funny clicking noises while reversing or going forward like I did when it first broke *knock on wood*
you can drive my car whenever i install it
my car is ****ing loud, whiney, vibey, clunky
So no ETD?
I don't mind it when my car is loud, or the cabin vibrates more than normal, etc. It's just that the clicking noise I heard when switching between reverse and forward 1st gear was coming from the broken bushing on my CPE RMM. It was a nice 2" tear too, on the upper portion of the bushing where you can't see it.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....omCompare1=yes
scratch that, load rating doesnt work
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSe...er=Continental
Still on closeout, albeit $50 more than the size you were looking at.
So, I would like to swap the tranny fluid to XT-M5-QS but I'm 1/2 a bottle short. If anyone has like half a bottle of the stuff, I'd like to buy it :)
damn that sucks, i had like half a bottle left but threw it out
Hey guys...check out my hot wicked idea for an intake...
ALL comments are appreciated...chk this link.
http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/sh...l=1#post885424
:music
good morning everyone. already saw the thread fobio, some of the greatest ideas start on the throne
Did an unofficial 'mini-pull' in 3rd and 4th and logged it, and as suggested by Cobb I looked at the following columns:
- Boost (PSI) (should not vary more than 1.5 PSI either way from the target)
- HPFP Act. Press. (PSI) (should not drop below 1400)
- Knock Retard (should not be consistent throughout WOT)
- Long Term FT (should not exceed +/- 8%)
I was running a Stage 1+ (CS SRI/TIH, 91 octane) and I have autotech internals. Temperature outside was about 4 deg C and the car was fully warmed up. The boost on my map is targeted for ~16psi +/- 1.5 PSI, and the logs showed that the highest it went was 17.07 PSI. HPFP pressure ranged from 1683.83 PSI (at the very start of the pull) up to 1837.56, with the majority sitting around the 1700 ~ 1750 range. Zero KR and LTFT (I assume 0 LTFT because it's in Open Loop instead of Closed Loop?).
Anyway, I'll be doing a real 3rd gear data log soon-ish, but what I see in the logs is promising. And it's nice that I can look at the numbers and basically understand what is happening thanks to the various guides I've been reading :D
edit: Oh yeah... car feels smoother into boost now, is more responsive and pulls significantly harder. It's not a night and day difference and I'm being careful to avoid exaggeration, but it is noticeably stronger than the stock tune. And this is just an OTS map lol.