Which one?
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Which one?
someone was selling a mint condition corksport fmic kit for 600.. talked him down to 500! pics will be posted when installed on the car :)
Nice,
Love this thread btw.
Means a lot lolQuote:
Originally Posted by 6strings
Was it the IC from the MSpeed car?Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey32235
eric
Isn't it the kit for the speed 6 that was for sale on kijiji?Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey32235
no it was on some guys red 07 ms3.. in oakville. mint condition! looks bnib
ok.. so i can't seem to figure this out.. every time i start up the car (cold) i get the code p0300 random misfire.. but when the car is warm it doesn't misfire. i have a cat in now so i thought that would fix the problem.. but no lol. has anyone had the same problem i am? the plugs are gapped properly, once the car is warm there is no misfiring. fml lol :)
What did you properly cap your plugs to?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey32235
Not me I'm mspeed built and tuned bro. Lol
they were all gapped already between .28-.30.. ill check again later but i swear thats what they were at.. is that what they should b at? through lots or readings thats what i foundQuote:
Originally Posted by Snotrocket
Lol... what I think fack_dude is trying to say is, it's time for a tune :P
Not sure if it's a good idea or not, I am sure others might chime in if it is, but why don't you trying the old plugs if they still work and that way you can narrow down what the potential problem is. Just an idea since it would fairly easy to do and free to see if that's what the problem is.
lol ofcourse :P im gonna check the gaps again.. but is that the correct gap size? between .28 and .30?Quote:
Originally Posted by pwdunmore
First of all, you're missing a zero. Second of all, its 0.026 - 0.028.
oops ya i knew about the 0 but u all get the point lol. shit i think a few of the plugs was at .30.. ill change that and see how it goes
I don't see how having the plugs gapped at 0.030 vs 0.028 would be an issue at idle.
if anything the slightly larger gap will result in better burn of the fuel at idle.
my car is the anti-christ, and I'm working on getting it up to scratch, but you should consider lighting yours on fire and claiming it got f****ed up in G20 riots and claim insurance.
ohh ****....Quote:
Originally Posted by loki
Quote:
Originally Posted by loki
such and ass hole loki
everything is gap fine. I'm getting sick of opening the hood on this ****in car
I'll do you and Loki a favour and light both cars on fire.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey32235
please doQuote:
Originally Posted by Fack_Dude
current problems with my car:
- driver hid went out... again!
- lovely constant exhaust fumes smell, lots of.
- doesn't wanna start when cold (random misfire code comes up too)
this shit is never gonna end i swear.
need new HID bulb
running too rich..which map are you running?
check for vacuum leaks
1. for the bulbs, this is the second time I'm changing it in not even a month,Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrizzl3
2. injen 93 tune stage 2, stock IC and stock TIH
3. checked, couldn't find any leaks at all. only started happening when the weather got really cold.
Exhaust leak, didn't you play with it before?
Auto Systems and Repair
OBD II Code P0300
Random, Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
Our emissions expert has put together the following information about the P0300 fault code. We have also included diagnostic procedures you can take to your repair shop if the mechanic is having difficulty analyzing the code.
Related Information
Check Engine Light
Misfire Information
Spark Plug Replacement
Ignition Wire Replacement
Cap & Rotor Replacement
Ignition Coil Replacement
OBD II Fault Code
OBD II P0300
Fault Code Definition
Random, Multiple Misfire Detected
Symptoms
Check Engine Light flashing
Rough running, hesitation, and/or jerking when accelerating
In most cases, there are no adverse conditions noticed by the driver
In some cases, there may be performance problems, such as dying at stop signs or rough idling, hesitation, misfires or lack of power (especially during acceleration), and a decrease in fuel economy
Common Problems That Trigger the P0300
Worn out spark plugs, ignition wires, coil(s), distributor cap and rotor (when applicable)
Incorrect ignition timing
Vacuum leak(s)
Low or weak fuel pressure
Improperly functioning EGR system
Defective Mass Air Flow Sensor
Defective Crankshaft and/or Camshaft Sensor
Defective Throttle Position Sensor
Mechanical engine problems (i.e.—low compression, leaking head gasket(s), or valve problems
Common Misdiagnoses
Fuel Injectors
Oxygen Sensor(s)
Powertrain/Drivetrain problems
Polluting Gases Expelled
HCs (Hydrocarbons): Unburned droplets of raw fuel that smell, affect breathing, and contribute to smog
CO (Carbon Monoxide): Partially burned fuel that is an odorless and deadly poisonous gas
NOX (Oxides of Nitrogen): One of the two ingredients that, when exposed to sunlight, cause smog
Want to Learn More?
Generally, the term "misfire" refers to an incomplete combustion process inside the cylinder. When this becomes severe enough, the driver will feel a jerking action from the engine and/or powertrain. Often the owner will bring the vehicle into a shop complaining that the timing is "off." This is partially correct because a misfire does involve a mis-timed combustion event. However, the base ignition timing being out of adjustment is only one reason for a misfire to occur—and not the most likely.
P0301 Diagnostic Theory for Shops and Technicians
When the code P0300 is set in the Powertrain Computer, it means that the Misfire Monitor has detected more than a 2 percent variance in RPM between the firing of any two (or more) cylinders in the firing order. The Misfire Monitor constantly checks the rotational speed of the Crankshaft by counting the pulses of the Crankshaft Sensor. The Monitor wants to see a smooth increase or decrease in engine RPM.
If there are jerky and sudden changes in the speed output of the Crankshaft Sensor, the Misfire Monitor begins to count the RPM increase (or lack thereof) contributed by each cylinder. If it varies beyond 2 percent, the Monitor will set a P0300 code and illuminate the Check Engine Light. If there is more than a 10 percent variance, the Check Engine Light will blink or pulse in a steady manner to indicate that a harmful Catalytic Converter misfire is occurring.
When diagnosing a P0300 code, it is important to record the freeze frame information and then duplicate the code setting conditions with a test drive. Pay close attention to the engine load, throttle position, RPM, and road speed because a P0300 (which is a specific misfire) can sometimes be difficult to detect. If the Engine System has a Misfire Counter for specific cylinders on the Scan Tool Data Stream, pay very close attention to the cylinders(s) named in the misfire code(s).
If there is not a Cylinder Misfire Counter, then you might have to switch components—such as coils, spark plugs, etc.—in order to isolate the root cause of the misfire. It is also important to note and record any other codes because the engine may be misfiring due to the failure or malfunction of another system or component.
Common Causes for an Engine Misfire and Code P0300
Ignition Misfire
An Ignition System problem is one of the most common reasons for an engine to misfire. As the spark plugs, ignition cables, distributor cap and rotor, and ignition coil wear over time, their ability to transfer the needed spark to ignite the air/fuel mixture inside the combustion chambers becomes compromised. In the early stages, the spark will only be weaker and the actual misfire will be subtle. As the ignition components continue to wear, the misfire will intensify and the combustion process can be interrupted completely. This will cause a severe jerk or shock in the operation of the engine (the engine may even backfire through the air intake system, producing a loud "pop").
Carefully inspect all of the Ignition System components for wear and heat damage. The Spark Plug terminals should have a sandy color and not be blackened with soot, white from an overheating combustion chamber, or greenish from coolant. Neither the Ignition Cables nor the Coil(s) should have any signs of arcing. If possible, Scope Check the Ignition System to ensure that the firing voltages are even—about 8 to 10 kilovolts per cylinder. If there is a Distributor on the engine, remove the Distributor Cap and Rotor. Inspect their terminals and contact points for wear, signs of arcing, and/or any buildup from corrosion. Though all ODB II vehicles have computer controlled timing, be sure to verify that it is within spec, even if it uses individual coils.
Lean Misfire
The lean misfire is another common reason for an engine "miss"—this is due to an imbalanced air/fuel ratio (too much air/too little fuel). Since an engine needs a richer (more fuel) mixture for a smooth idle, this problem may be more noticeable when the vehicle is idling. The lean misfire may decrease or disappear as the engine speed increases because the efficiency of the volumetric flow into the combustion chambers increases dramatically. This is one reason why a vehicle gets better mileage on the freeway than in the city. An EGR valve that is stuck open, a leaking Intake Manifold Gasket, a defective Mass Air Flow Sensor, a weak or failing fuel pump, or a plugged fuel filter are some of the many causes for a lean misfire.
Pay very close attention to the Long Term Fuel Trim values because they indicate how much the Powertrain Computer is compensating for an imbalanced air/fuel ratio. If the Long Term Fuel Trim is over 10 percent on one bank of cylinders and not the other, there might be a vacuum leak or defective/cracked intake manifold on that specific bank. It is important to determine what is causing this amount of compensation. Check the Fuel Trim "numbers" over the full range of operating conditions. A healthy engine should have Long Term Fuel Trim numbers around 1 to 3 percent, either positive or negative.
Mechanical Misfire
Mechanical problems can also cause an engine to misfire. Common causes of a mechanical misfire are worn piston rings, valves, cylinder walls, or lobes on a camshaft; a leaking head gasket or intake manifold gasket; damaged or broken rocker arms; defective fuel injectors (and/or the electronics that control them); and a slipped or incorrectly-installed timing belt or timing chain. Generally, this type of misfire has more of a "thumping" feel to it. It is usually noticeable regardless of engine speed; in fact, it may even intensify as the engine speed increases.
A Compression Test and an engine idle Manifold Vacuum Test are two very important methods of determining the mechanical condition of the engine. Compression readings that are consistent (within 10 percent of each other), and at least 120 PSI per cylinder and a minimum of seventeen inches of steady vacuum, are required for reasonably smooth and complete combustion.
Powertrain Misfire
Sometimes, the engine has nothing to do with a misfire. One common cause for "jerky" performance that feels like a misfire is a problem in the transmission and its ability to properly up- or down-shift. If the misfire occurs during higher speeds, it could be a problem with the operation of the overdrive gear or a chattering clutch in the Lockup Torque Converter. If the vehicle jerks or feels like it is "missing" during deceleration, it could be due to harsh transmission downshifts, badly warped rotors, out of round brake drums, and/or sticking brake pads or brake shoes.
Vehicles can set misfire codes when badly warped and out of round rear brake drums violently jerk the entire powertrain when the vehicle slows from highway speeds. Make sure that you have the vehicle properly inspected in order to determine the root cause of the misfire. Entire engines have been replaced to solve a wrongly perceived mechanical misfire problem that was actually rooted in the transfer case, transmission, driveshaft, or front/rear differential.
fed from a silver spoon
I'd pay $20 to see thatQuote:
Originally Posted by Fack_Dude
wow, tons of info there.. I'm definitely running lean so i gotta figure this crap out.. thanks fack dude
If you cant figure it out after Fack_Dude providing all this info sell the facking car or blow it up.
You running the ap or did you sell it?Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey32235
running ap. injen stage 2Quote:
Originally Posted by Fack_Dude
if you were flash to a stage 1 map does the car still act up?
haven't tried it yet.. i might even try flashing back to stock to see if this solves the issue.. the thing is i don't think it would make a difference because when the weather was warmer i had absolutely no issues. its only when its really cold (past 2 weeks)..
well try it..going back to stock will have it running like ass.
ran it stock, its gotta be an exhaust leak.Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrizzl3
ok so i checked all the vac lines again.. i saw a really small hole in one of the custom lines.. changed it and it seems to be running better. I'm gonna let the car sit out in the cold for a few hours and start it up again and see if it acts up again or is normal.
Mikey, were you also not holding vacuum at idle? Or just rough idle?Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey32235
Should this maybe be in a how to section?