For those who were interested in the aeroforce gauges, GI thread is here:
http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/sh...rceptor-Gauges
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For those who were interested in the aeroforce gauges, GI thread is here:
http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/sh...rceptor-Gauges
I was reading the mod-path by MSpeed and I am thinking I should replace my spark plugs since #1 I dont know when they were changed last and #2 ive since put 20,000km from day of purchase...so I think I am going to go ahead and change them...doesnt hurt right?
My issue is, and I searched it, I dont know what stage (is that right?) of spark plug I should go with. I know Denso is the brand to go with...I am currently running a COBB SRI, and getting a TIH in the next week (if that makes a difference). If someone could provide a link to a "how to pick spark plugs" page, it would be appreciated.
would you also consider a compression test to see the health of your engine at the same time?
yes sir...I am in the process of setting one up. Does the results of the CT have an effect on which spark plugs to use?
sorry, Im slowly trying to educate myself...
compression test shows whether or not the piston rings are sealing properly or if they are on their way out. i know your speed is high milage so it wouldn't hurt too see the status of your motorQuote:
Originally Posted by joedemarco
OHHHH..thats what you were getting at... Yes you are absolutely right, test to follow next week.
Any opinion for spark plugs?
well unless you are upping power i would stick with stock plugs..if you are looking to up the boost and power...1 step colder plugs would benefit your car. Denso ITV22.Quote:
Originally Posted by joedemarco
ok. I plan on going stage 1 after getting my AP and TIH and readin Abilor's guide...Im thinking 1. wait till then or 2. get stock plugs and upgrade later??!! at $50-75 a set...#2 is looking really stupid...Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrizzl3
get an upgraded pump before anything else
stick with the stock plugs
cant at this time...its internals or AP...and I know i'll get roasted for this...even if you said internals, I'd still get the AP lol. I have my reasons...a very good reason at that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrizzl3
thank you Chris.Quote:
Originally Posted by loki
so if your car was on it's last leg..would you buy something to fix the problem? or would to see how far you would get with your last leg...?Quote:
Originally Posted by joedemarco
i'd blow it up! and start from scratch....but then agian thats just me :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Thrizzl3
well if the compression test said that something needed to be done then yes I would fix the problem...I would always fix the problem...but something like changing internals before I know that anything is even wrong with it I wont do...I'm not even at stage 0...so I'm going off the basis that since I'm still stock and *assuming everything is in working order then I wont do the internals before I get the AP to monitor whats actually going on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrizzl3
But I dont know yet that I have an issue with the internals hence my decision to get the AP before internals...make sense or am I looking at this the wrong way?
Sir...I will be bothering you next week, I am coming by for a compression test lol. And we need to talk about your Michael...but later!Quote:
Originally Posted by abstrakt
Spark plug recommendation is generally made on a rule of thumb basis and in some ways, is a black art. The best way to determine what plug to run is to put the car on the dyno, swap plugs and optimize the tune for each plug to determine which plug combo makes more power.
The overriding rule of thumb is to run the hottest plug you can get away with that maximizes power. Maximizing power takes into account detonation that may arise from running too hot a plug.
Plug selection is highly correlated to combustion chamber temperatures and not necessarily how much power you are making. If you were to have a setup that could make 400whp on E85, I would bet stock heat plugs would be the way to go. However, most people making big power run 2 step colder since they are primarily on pump with a bit of meth.
tl;dr. If you decide to go straight to one step colder plugs now, it wouldn't hold you back. The car will run fine.
Thats great!
Thanks for the help Dave.
Ugh, rear suspension is creaking and I'm feeling lazy and don't feel like swapping back in the stock RSB before I take it to the dealer...someone come do it for me.
Why swap it back in...its likely your spring perch creaking.
Hahah it's actually the RSB....lowered the car back onto its own weight without the RSB and it was silent. Go figure...guess I'll swap the new collars that corksport shipped in and clean the bushings out and regrease fully. See how it goes...
You really gotta grease those bitches up good :)
I had greased them up this year...in any case, cleaning them up entirely (ie taking them right apart) before regreasing got rid of my creaking problem. However after putting it all back together, on very uneven driveways and such I now have a metal on metal clunk sound when the rear goes over the bump :( Checked and made sure everything was tight but still there. Seems though on just regular roads and even with aggressive cornering there isn't any noise...any ideas?Quote:
Originally Posted by standsideways
Check the stabilizer links for playQuote:
Originally Posted by SomeGuy
End links? All solid, I've triple checked both the bolts that are at the sway bar as well as the top bolts where they attach to the control arms.
Are you using aftermarket heim joint links?
Nope, everything else is stock suspension.Quote:
Originally Posted by standsideways
Going to redo the endlink connection tonight and see if that helps.