I got out of my way not to call places or people. :P
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I got out of my way not to call places or people. :P
First of all...I had no idea that yous are all eternal optimists...haha...
How the heck yous figure it's a multi-pass?! One day of unlimited racing at GP Kartway used to be like $55 or something...it's now $63, so $28 for ONE DAY UNLIMITED IS THE DEAL!
I'm expecting some of you to come on and say that your MS3 can get 5L/100Km from now on...lol...
Let me get the other thread opened once more and we'll go from there...
Lol, I have no idea how much that crap costs or how it works. I went gokarting once when I was maybe 12, and I didn't pay for it at that time.
I figure with all the crap I had to go through to register on that site, buy the deal, and get 100439123409 emails from them, it had better be super-awesome-multi-unlimited !
also, i just finished my awd drive conversion and dyno'd the car at 350hp! and i killed a modded evo x last night!
Vid or shens!
Re: Informal MS3 Chat
Hey guys. As all know, I'm new to this car, but not cars in general and not even tuning in general. I've read a lot about the car and have a laundry list of mods I'd like to perform. First one being OCCs for both crank case and valve cover. The I'll probably do the suspension. I've already got my mind set on koni sports for now, since I can always throw a set of quality springs and rear camber arms later. My question is, how safe is the generic AP stock map for the ms3? I don't have any intake or exhaust mods. I'd like to see a bit better gas mileage and don't NEED any more power just right now. I'm more concerned with making the car as reliable as possible. More so than it was from the factory even as I know they blow shocks and in some cases, rods through the block. So would the generic stock tune map on the AP be for me, or would I be better just to get a dashhawk for now and just monitor my vitals since I'm leaving the motor stock for a long time anyway? Sorry if this is the total wrong section. I'm not new to forums either, but this seems to be an active thread...
Thanks in advance
In general, all of Cobb's off the shelf maps are safe. Not sure about better fuel mileage; perhaps a noticeable difference with Ultra 94 but for regular 91 I doubt it. The car will be faster - boost targets will be set marginally higher and the car will run a little more rich, and you'll be more tempted to get on it. All of those things might not help fuel mileage. But, according to a friend of mine that put an AP on her stock speed3, even without mods it's totally worth it.
My first mod to the car was the AP...before intake or anything else. I hated the car's power band. So essentially you get a device capable of tuning your car, monitoring your car (like a dashhawk) and reseting engine codes. There are a ton of off the shelf maps for stock vehicles (In fact, the stock anti theft, fuel mileage, valet are ONLY meant for stock vehicles. Once you are running stage1+ you cannot use those maps).
Now that being said, nothing is as safe as the stock tune. I don't think it's the tune that kills our engine as much as it's the fuel pumps not being able to deliver... and you can still get that in stock form.
Knowing what I know TODAY about the MS3, especially if I owned an '07, I would swap out the fuel pump FIRST and then get an AP second...
Thanks guys.
I'm in the typing mood...so... =)
When I got this car, I didn't want anymore power really...then I started stalling the car trying to drive it smooth in stop-and-go traffic...otherwise, it'd jerk like a mofo or "whoa" into the car in front. I was like dang, driving a auto G35 for 4 yrs made me lose my driving skills?!
then reading more about it on msf.org, then seeing phantom knock at cruising speed, I was like WTF?! there's something wrong about the car. It's nothing if you never monitored it. Blissful ignorance. I had a dashhawk for about 2 months while waiting for my AP...intake was already in. I've never driven a car, where I thought there's soemthing wrong with the car...you always just thought it's a new car, so get used to it.
Keep in mind throughout all this, I still had no need for more power...intake is just one of the things one HAS to do with a turbo car. Anyway...once the AP came in and I noticed the change in boost behaviour AND how that, amongst several things can be adjusted, I was hooked.
Indulge me for a moment...when I first got a Contour SE back in 1996, I literally took the car back and asked them to adjust the throttle or the gas pedal for me at the dealer...lol...looking back, they prolly thought I was some idiot, and I was. I took that "adjustability" for granted in this day and age.
Fast forward to now, and it can be done...at home, in my underwear, 2am in the morning...still without talking about power, I was able to completely remap my throttle response, remap my traction control and smooth out my boost response...imagine that!
so I guess the point to my rambling is this...the factory clibrations are adequate. if you bought a ms3 as a upgraded mz3 and all you expect is a little more oomph, then you'll prolly be pretty happy with the pkg, as I was...
but if you're an enthusiast, and actually sometimes turn off the radio to listen to what your car is doing, then you'll definitely appreciate what the ap can do.
I should add that I already have a sure RMM. I NEED this car to last a while and be safe and reliable for me, my wife and two young kids. The fuel pump internals are WAY too expensive for what they are. I could make them myself and sell them for less than a third of that cost( if someone has them and is willing to let me dimension them) I'm an aerospace machinist. My want for more power, which is only natural when you have red blood and a penis, is outweighed by my need for reliability. I bought the car to be practical, but still be something I wanted to drive and have fun driving.
my theory about some of the blow-ups:
worn and faulty fuel pumps, not monitored (cuz really, not many of us had DI engines and blew due to low fuel pressure), blissful ignorance, then one event, likely low-rpm high boost, and FP couldn't keep up (usually below 1200psi by this point, regularly), extra lean condition with warped internals due to uneven heat distribution (due to faulty fuel pump), and BOOM.
not the reason for every blow-up, but it's my personal theory from my reading.
getting the AP will not solve this issue, but it'll make you a gauge reader, keeping one eye on the AP/Dash Hawk, and of course with 2 eyes on the road...lol...
keep an eye out on fuel pressure and Long Term Fuel Trim, as the start to keeping the car in line. there are several threads here, which you may wish to bump, about idling and WOT fuel pressures from others. check it out.
Thank you. All I've done since about a month before I even got the car was read read read.
So on your AP, what vital do you guys monitor the most while driving, since the AP only displays one from my understanding? Knock retard? AFR?
I usually just threw the AP on boost and left it there. I don't have the AP anymore, but knowing now what I didn't back then I would monitor other things a lot more. I did check out fuel pressure for a while when my car would fuel cut running stage 2+ on stock fuel pump. It would only cut when it was below 0c outside, but my fuel pressure never dropped below 1650 psi. Even though the stock FP was causing it to cut, it was always 1850-1650 psi. I really want to get an AP again but for me to get full benefit for it and for my own engine's safety I won't get it again without already having the internals. Even for the stage 1 maps. I have a CAI and a FMIC right now and I wouldn't add any more mods except for maybe an inlet without the FP internals.
Fuel pressure, knock retard and long term fuel trims? Do I have those right? I guess by monitoring fuel pressure, I should almost be able to predict my knock provided everything else is constant. That would also tell me if I have a health fuel pump or not, correct?
So I grabbed a dashhawk for what I feel was a great price, so I can at least monitor my vitals while the car is still stock. I'll get an AP later and I'll have both, or I'll sell the dh.
hey you guys should really look into investing in a Aeroforce Interceptor guage. It plugs into your obd2 port and reads pretty much everything you could want. Alot of the ss and srt4 guys run these in both single and duel set ups. They read 2 parameters at a time and you can switch between those parameters at any time. You could also set the built in led to flash when certian things are getting to a bad point, or as a shift light. Plus its only 225$.
http://www.aeroforcetech.com/products_interceptor.html
Coming out of the Honda tuning scene, I have had a great deal of success with these guys. Think I'm gonna pop and try them out on the speed.
http://thmotorsports.com/buddy_club/...c/g-53450.aspx
Tokay i just relized your a pball player. you still playing? i see a bobby long onyx/mummy(lol i cant remeber) in your dp there. im trying to recognize that jersey. i see rxl on the wrist there lol. i use to play a couple years back. me and a bunch of buds would play the TOC series when they existed. good times.