That was our secret!Quote:
Originally Posted by Fobio
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That was our secret!Quote:
Originally Posted by Fobio
Well I don't know what that means, but I like where this is headed.
I haz many mazdaz
you haz to finga fuhk the chain to know if it's fuhked upQuote:
Originally Posted by Mr Wilson
Dearest Dave,Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueStreak
Will you do the honor of fingering my chain?
:chuckle
where would be the best place to find supplies to custom build a larger intake.. also in need of a big MAF
my shit is coming out soon time if you can wait...if not...talk to Dave ....theme of the day...Quote:
Originally Posted by Snotrocket
well, talk to CelestSpeed3/Paul as well...
sometimes I wish it was a chick named Celeste that wrenches on my car...
Timeframe?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fobio
hopefully a week...it's also tapped for reirc for dual OCC setup to vent the valvecover, esp important for BT. I got it new from CP-e...the setup was like close to $500.Quote:
Originally Posted by Snotrocket
cool... diameter ?
I think it's either 3.25ID or 3.5"OD. Either way it will suit your needs.
I don't want to dial the boost up on my 3 inch inlet.. will another 1/4 inch make that much of a difference?
The MAF housing of the CP-e is 3.25". the inlet itself states it's a 3" cross-section throughout as it's more like a chamber than a 3" pipe. here's a link:Quote:
Originally Posted by Snotrocket
http://www.cp-e.com/products/mazdasp...%E2%84%A2-pipe
A place called D'muffler Mechanix man a custom turbo inlet for me. He does a ton of custom exhaust and pipe work.
Good guys: http://www.dmufflermechanix.ca/Services.html
I will... but I'm going in dry...Quote:
Originally Posted by cSPEED
Ideally, you want to keep the intake tract - up to the turbo - as large as possible (in our case 4") so that the turbo doesn't have to inherently run a higher pressure ratio to give you your desired boost.Quote:
Originally Posted by Snotrocket
For example,
You want 20 PSI manifold pressure (boost). Assuming you have a restrictive inlet/intake, the turbo will have to work harder on the inlet side (maybe 22PSI worth or something).
I'm holding the pressure drop on the post turbo side constant at whatever it is given your intercooler setup.
When you check the clamping collars, also check the bracket bolts and the end link nuts. The end links on my sway bar were so loose you could twist them with your fingers. Had the car up on a hoist and (using the allen key to hold the nut in place) tightened the fvck out of them - way better to torque them tight on a hoist than to lie on your back under the car trying to tighten them that way.Quote:
Originally Posted by loki
I checked all those already. they were still torqued the way we set themQuote:
Originally Posted by Elusivellama
50 lbs of torque is 50 lbs whether the car is up on a hoist, you're on the ground, you get a skank to do it, once the torque wrench clicks at the torque setting, you're good to go.
but it would be a hell of alot easier on a hoist....
I got it at 50lbs torque last time or whatever the JBR instructions recommended, using a torque wrench. Clicked off and everything. Still came loose... might be a result of the clamping collars coming loose and allowing the bushings to move back and forth.
Must be from all that Krown you had under your car... ha ha.Quote:
Originally Posted by Elusivellama
Chris, check the nuts that fasten the strut hat onto the strut shaft in the engine bay. Mine came loose on my yellows and made some wicked clunking sounds.
my noise is definitely coming from the back right wheel hitting the bumperQuote:
Originally Posted by BlueStreak
and the evidence is on the bumper. Pieces of my R-S3.....pieces of my badass wheel.
Fender flares.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...I/IMG00277.jpg
^^^^
that looks horrible..
no...
Just think. With that wide body kit, your bumper will never pop off near the headlight....