Oil Change, Synthetic? or Conventional?

[aris]

Don't go to Part Source, more expensive. Was ~$13/L last I checked. Elite or No Limits had a lot better prices. I'd just go to Elite and have them do it, $69/hr shop rate makes it all worthwhile. Just be sure to have your OMC card on you.



That's crazy, last I checked our dealer was giving it to club members at $8.99/L here. And $9.99/L at a local speed shop.

My dealer is Bay Mazda in belleville

[MAZDA Kitten]

at walmart i found castrol syntec in 5w20 for $38 and change for 5 l. so after looking a bit i ended up with formula 1, since it's in the market i was wondering if it's an ok oil or how bad can it be?

You're shopping at the wrong Wal Mart.

I get Mobil1 5w20 (synthetic) for $22.99 or Castro Syntec for $21.99 (it used to be $18.99 grrrrrr)
Lately the Mobil1 has been out of stock so I am left with Castro Syntec but it doesnt bother me. I take it to the Mazda dealer and with my own oil it ends up costing me $50 for a synthetic oil change.

oh PS - the Wal Mart I buy my oil from is across the border

[ZoomZoom09]

I know your asking other than dealers, but I would stick to the dealer for your first change.

I use Mazda Full Synthetic 5w20, however conventional is perfectly fine.

[aris]

I know your asking other than dealers, but I would stick to the dealer for your first change.

I use Mazda Full Synthetic 5w20, however conventional is perfectly fine.

If i am not mistaking their is no mazda full synthetic...their is mazda semi synthetic.

[alhope34]

Mazda uses Castrol GTX as their synthetic.

[aris]

Mazda uses Castrol GTX as their synthetic.

i think every dealer uses different synthetics....My dealer stocks RP..but they will get you what ever you want.

[DARK3]

Syntec is the shit

[Swerny]

Mazda uses Castrol GTX as their synthetic.

Castrol GTX is not synthetic, or semi-syn, it's conventional (dino) oil.

[Ogata]

I got my RP for 10 bucks taxes in per bottle.

[alhope34]

Castrol GTX is not synthetic, or semi-syn, it's conventional (dino) oil.

Well whatever Castrol's synthetic oil is, Scarboro Mazda uses it....


Castrol Syntec, thats it!

[MajesticBlueNTO]

WHAT?? ....You can purchase Mobil1 5w-20 in the 5 litre jugs at Walmart for $41....Make sure you get the one marked SuperSyn
as it's a Group 4 oil.

Dealer installs it with an OEM filter for $32.....for a total of $73....with oil left over


_3

Almost all Mobil1 SuperSyn (including 5w20) is a Group 3 synthetic. As well as any Castrol Syntec that is not 0w30.

The Extended Performance Mobil1 should be a Group 4, and if you can find any old stock of Mobil1 0w20.

Group 4 syns are limited to your boutiques (Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, Nippon, etc), Castrol Syntec 0w30 (German Castrol), and Esso XD-3 Extra 0w30 and 0w40.

[cayuga2305]

I got my RP for 10 bucks taxes in per bottle.

Which store did you purchase that from?

[Flagrum_3]

Almost all Mobil1 SuperSyn (including 5w20) is a Group 3 synthetic. As well as any Castrol Syntec that is not 0w30.

The Extended Performance Mobil1 should be a Group 4, and if you can find any old stock of Mobil1 0w20.

Group 4 syns are limited to your boutiques (Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, Nippon, etc), Castrol Syntec 0w30 (German Castrol), and Esso XD-3 Extra 0w30 and 0w40.

I don't believe that's entirely true; Mobil1 5w-20 with SuperSyn is a Group 4 (PAO) synthetic, if you want to get technical not all of the grades of oils those other brands sale are true group 4.Most of the brands you mentioned are group 5 synthetic ester based oils, that is the only difference.All I really care about is that Mobil1 with SuperSyn passes the ILSAC GF4 Performance standards! ....that's good enough for my needs and probably most here unless they plan on racing.


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[MajesticBlueNTO]

I don't believe that's entirely true; Mobil1 5w-20 with SuperSyn is a Group 4 (PAO) synthetic, if you want to get technical not all of the grades of oils those other brands sale are true group 4.Most of the brands you mentioned are group 5 synthetic ester based oils, that is the only difference.All I really care about is that Mobil1 with SuperSyn passes the ILSAC GF4 Performance standards! ....that's good enough for my needs and probably most here unless they plan on racing.


_3

3rd page: "Mobil 1 5W-20 is manufactured from high quality petroleum base stocks, carefully blended with selected additives."

the basestock is a Group III, the SuperSyn additive is a PAO... all mobil1 synthetics have the SuperSyn additive.

in regards to lumping the other oils in Group 4, i should have said Group 4 or 5 (synthetic basestocks)... as some in the list are PAO (4) and some are ester (5).

the few times i've run at the track with Mobil1 5w20, i found that some burned off by the end of the day (mobil1 known to be quite thin)...with the German Castrol, it's been rock solid (GC 0w30 is thicker than Mobil1's 5w40, while being a pretty sweet oil). <- and that's not a comparison between group 3 and 4, as there are some group 3s that are better than other group 4s - the Pennzoil Platinum being one of the best group 3 - just my experience with Mobil1 5w20 vs German Castrol.

[aris]

I got my RP for 10 bucks taxes in per bottle.

Apc auto parts in Belleville sells RP for $8.99L

[Flagrum_3]

3rd page: "Mobil 1 5W-20 is manufactured from high quality petroleum base stocks, carefully blended with selected additives."

the basestock is a Group III, the SuperSyn additive is a PAO... all mobil1 synthetics have the SuperSyn additive.

in regards to lumping the other oils in Group 4, i should have said Group 4 or 5 (synthetic basestocks)... as some in the list are PAO (4) and some are ester (5).

the few times i've run at the track with Mobil1 5w20, i found that some burned off by the end of the day (mobil1 known to be quite thin)...with the German Castrol, it's been rock solid (GC 0w30 is thicker than Mobil1's 5w40, while being a pretty sweet oil). <- and that's not a comparison between group 3 and 4, as there are some group 3s that are better than other group 4s - the Pennzoil Platinum being one of the best group 3 - just my experience with Mobil1 5w20 vs German Castrol.

Yup seems your right again! Unfortunately, I was originally going off the U.S page specs and apparently Mobil1 doesn't sell the same oil here in Canada as in the States!!!!-(after reading the Canadian site specs)....Which is a total rip-off to say the least!!

I've been checking out the MSDS sheets on all Mobil1 products and it seems some of the Mobil grades may be Synthetic Grp IV (PAO) based whilst others are Grp 3 Hydrocracked with (PAO) additives! Apparently no grades in Canada are true Grp IV!....Nevertheless I've had no problems with using the M1 5w-20 as it's specs are still superior to most considering it's only a Grp3 oil.But I am definately contemplating switching to another brand at my next change as my warranty is almost done!....Maybe Redline for it's true poly ester based formula and longer oil change duration.....Hope to save the enviroment abit

I'm just wondering have you seen the MSDS for the Castrol 0w-30 'German formula'? ...I can't seem to find it anywhere. Reason I ask is because thru my searches I've read that the 'German formula' sold in NA is not the same as in the EU and that it actually states on the bottle 'Not to be sold outside North America' ...meaning it may not be the same 'Full Grp IV formula! ...Mind you it does get high praise from alot of users, especially those who have gone to the extent of oil analysis.

Where have you managed to purchase the Castrol 5w-30 German formula? I can't seem to find it around my area.


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[Flagrum_3]

It DOUBLE POSTED IT!?


_3

[Mazda3X2]

Man this subject never dies.

If you are leasing your car or don't plan to have it for the long haul I would buy a good regular (conventional) oil.

Other than that a good Grp3 "synthetic" would be a good choice. Decent value for your money and these will outperform any conventional oil by far.

If you really care for your car or it's force fed and subect to high running temps etc go with a Grp4 synthetic. Amsoil or Royal Purple are pretty readily available and don't cost an arm and a leg.

Stick with the recommended SAE grade.

[Flagrum_3]

Man this subject never dies.

If you are leasing your car or don't plan to have it for the long haul I would buy a good regular (conventional) oil.

Other than that a good Grp3 "synthetic" would be a good choice. Decent value for your money and these will outperform any conventional oil by far.

If you really care for your car or it's force fed and subect to high running temps etc go with a Grp4 synthetic. Amsoil or Royal Purple are pretty readily available and don't cost an arm and a leg.

Stick with the recommended SAE grade.

SO!? This is an Automotive discussion forum isn't it? So why should any particular topic end? Especially one as important as this!! ...atleast I think it should be considering we are enthusiasts, right! ...

Some of your points are correct, if I was leasing I'd put piss in the thing aslong as I knew it would get me to the end of the term!

Also, Grp 3 based oils do a fine job as I also mentioned earlier, but I plan on keeping my car for the extreme long haul and want the best protection I can get.The cost is all relative; As in the prolonged life of components using a 'Quality synthetic oil' will outway the extra cost of using such....not to mention longer oil change durations and even better fuel mileage in some instances.

Choosing the right grade is important also! In most cases your right about sticking to the recommended SAE grade (especially when still under warranty)but there are benefits to using others.A 0w-30 will protect your engine components far better then a 5w-20 or 5w-30 grade, it'll pump and flow better during all cold start-ups, especially in extreme cold temps as we are seeing now and will give you better wear and shear protection at higher temps....these are just a couple of the benefits.

Anyways, I say keep the topic going! Why not? if anything, atleast it can be informative


_3

[Mazda3X2]

Alright, alright! Lets go with it then.

I agree with your point on the 0 grade oils. There are certain advantages to these "newer" 0W oils such as improved fuel economy and cold weather protection. I would wonder about the cheaper brands volatility. Although I haven't researched this.

I was speaking more of the higher number where some people tend to think that a "thicker" oil means better protection, especially in higher temperatures. A conventional oil needs friction modifiers to be added to get these extended numbers. This tends to effect the pour point and viscosity of the oil over it's whole range. And at a certain temperature, even given the same lower number would be more resistant to pour than an even numbered counter part. (5W40 VS 5W30 for example) Not always a good thing. A good true synthetic oil can achieve these numbers without such modifiers, leading to a consistant and predictable viscosity across the oils operating range. A thicker oil may mean reduced noise or oil burning in a high mileage engine, not saying it's doing any wonders for lubrication though.

My thoughts.
Let the record show I am using Amsoil 5W30 right now, with Royal Purple already purchased for my next change. I found the Amsoil to get fairly dark quickly and very strange smelling almost like a solvent. Not fuel. I take into consideration too that the car has only 5500 km's now with the Amsoil in the engine since 1700 km's.

Choosing the right grade is important also! In most cases your right about sticking to the recommended SAE grade (especially when still under warranty)but there are benefits to using others.A 0w-30 will protect your engine components far better then a 5w-20 or 5w-30 grade, it'll pump and flow better during all cold start-ups, especially in extreme cold temps as we are seeing now and will give you better wear and shear protection at higher temps....these are just a couple of the benefits.

Anyways, I say keep the topic going! Why not? if anything, atleast it can be informative


_3

[MAZDA Kitten]

Yup seems your right again! Unfortunately, I was originally going off the U.S page specs and apparently Mobil1 doesn't sell the same oil here in Canada as in the States!!!!-(after reading the Canadian site specs)....Which is a total rip-off to say the least!!_3

Are you serious?? Good thing I've been buying my Mobil1 5w20 from the US then! WTF not only its 'better' but its only $20 for a jug

[Flagrum_3]

Are you serious?? Good thing I've been buying my Mobil1 5w20 from the US then! WTF not only its 'better' but its only $20 for a jug

I wouldn't be too sure MK! Like I said some of Mobil's Synthetic oils in the US are pure Synthetic but some are still oil based...that's hydrocracked oil based same as Castrol....and I believe the 5w-20 you get for $20 is just that! Hydrocracked grp III with PAO additives.

You'd have to go to atleast the Mobil1 Extended Performance Synthetic to get the Synthetic PAO based formula and you'd have to switch to either a 0w-40 or 0w-30 grade I believe.

Now I'm just going by what I've read on the Mobil sites, both Canada and US sites.I tried emailing them but they just sent back a generic reply.

When do you plan your next trip down to get oil? ...Just like to ask you to check-out the price for Redline 0w-30 for me if you can?....thanks!


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[imhungry493]

when i finsihed breaking in the car i wanted to change my oil but it rained for like 3 weeks.. plus i did alot of driving ended up changing it from stock to castol GTX @ 4**** km's wanted to change itearlier but didnt work out. anyways on my trip computer it went from 10.4l/100km to 10.2 im now at freakin 13000 all mostly highway and need desperatly another oil change! but i dont want to waste the money since i do it myself yet..... its winter definatly gonna switch to synthetic though btw for winter my dam milage is 11.5/100km any else have this issue? 2.3L 5 speed auto? i know winter fuel sucks but dam! ill do the sythetic oil change this weekend most lilky and post the new milage after a couple of weeks

[Harbour Rat]

First, I have a 2.0L/manual so my mileage numbers will obviously be different from a 2.3/auto.

Anyhoo,as for synthetic vs conventional and how it affects fuel mileage: I changed the factory oil, engine and transmission oil for Castrol Syntec at 1 month/~1,400 km. Then at 4 months/~4,500 km I went to the dealer for the first scheduled oil change, where they filled the engine with Mazda supplied/branded oil. Again to the dealer at 8 months/ ~9,000 km. The mileage did get slightly better during the 3 months I had Syntec in the engine but this was most likely due to the engine breaking in. I did not see any real change in fuel mileage over the period from June through October with the Mazda oil, averaging 6.4-6.8L/100km for that period.

Literally the day after the second dealer oil change I installed my winter tires and noticed a definite increase in fuel consumption on the next fill up, 7.3 L/100km. Since winter arrived in early-mid November my fuel consumption has been higher and I've seen greater fluctuations, between 7.3 and 8.8 L/100km.

So maybe synthetic oil helps mileage, I don't know. I do know for sure winter tires and winter driving definitely hurt fuel mileage. I hope summer comes back soon.