engine oil cooler

[zzz3]

I would be interested in this. Preferably the escape/tribute cooler with the mazda6 hoses if the price difference is substantial.

[TheMAN]

Joe/FLIPDADDY can get all of the OEM parts required for this mod. I'll let him comment on pricing.

Found some pictures of the OEM cooler online.

that is the newer style one that comes on genpus... this one has a replaceable gasket... I don't know if it's still made by modine or not, probably not

[TheMAN]

I would be interested in this. Preferably the escape/tribute cooler with the mazda6 hoses if the price difference is substantial.

all the part #s are on the how-to thread
if you have an ms3, you already have the oil cooler

[RedRaptor]

Lots of information on the original thread set up by Edwin.

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/sh...pec-oil-cooler

[RedRaptor]

I would be interested in this. Preferably the escape/tribute cooler with the mazda6 hoses if the price difference is substantial.

The Escape/Tribute/Mexican Mazda6 OEM oil cooler is only compatable with the Mexican-spec Mazda hoses below:
L531-15-54YA
L531-15-530B (automatics only)

I checked with Joe/FLIPDADDY and they aren't available to order from Mazda Canada.

You will need to order the above hoses from Mazda USA dealers (www.onlinemazdaparts.com has them in stock) if you go the this route.

If you want the MS3/MS6/CX7 oil cooler, Joe can get all the parts required.

The only difference is the design of the oil cooler. The MS3 oil cooler has the one bent, one straight fitting while the Escape/Tribute has two straight fittings. Because of this, you will require different hoses to make it plug and play on a standard Mazda3.

[TheMAN]

but for the sake of saving money, you might want to use the tribute/escape oil cooler because it is MUCH cheaper, even after the hassle of importing the hoses

[stock3]

I think people need do some research before installing these coolers on N/A 3's. The common mantra, taken at face value, that cooler is better simply does not work that way. There is a reason why thermostats are set at certain temperatures and oil coolers are either added or not to the system. That reason is overall system temperature and how it affects oil viscosity.

Oil temperature is critical in order to keep the viscosity in check. Too hot is just as bad as too cold. When the oil goes beyond minimum viscosity temperature, which is usually at 150*C, it becomes too thin and doesn't provide adequate film strength for the bearings and camshafts. That's pretty much well understood and everybody fears that their oil may get too hot. But in reality, it is very hard to reach 150*C in a normally aspirated engine on public roads, even on a track it's not that easy because the speeds are higher.

The issue of overcooling the engine and tranny oil is often overlooked though. Most people, like in this thread, just slap on a cooler without even knowing if it’s needed because the common mantra that cooler is better still prevails.
Well, if the oil is too cold, like below 90*C or so, the oil becomes too thick. While it’s not a big issue for normal, every day driving, it becomes an issue when the engine is taken to the high RPM’s or during hard acceleration because the oil pump relief valve may open and it will cause oil pump cavitation, reducing oil flow at the critical time when that flow is most needed.
The only way to know if you need oil cooler is to have an oil temp, or pressure gauge.

Better yet, there is a very simple way of dealing with those high engine temps, if they truly happen without the need for coolers and risks asociated with them, like leaks. Just use a heavier grade oil, preferably synthetic . It's that simple.

[silverstarmazda]

I think people need do some research before installing these coolers on N/A 3's. The common mantra, taken at face value, that cooler is better simply does not work that way. There is a reason why thermostats are set at certain temperatures and oil coolers are either added or not to the system. That reason is overall system temperature and how it affects oil viscosity.

Oil temperature is critical in order to keep the viscosity in check. Too hot is just as bad as too cold. When the oil goes beyond minimum viscosity temperature, which is usually at 150*C, it becomes too thin and doesn't provide adequate film strength for the bearings and camshafts. That's pretty much well understood and everybody fears that their oil may get too hot. But in reality, it is very hard to reach 150*C in a normally aspirated engine on public roads, even on a track it's not that easy because the speeds are higher.

The issue of overcooling the engine and tranny oil is often overlooked though. Most people, like in this thread, just slap on a cooler without even knowing if it’s needed because the common mantra that cooler is better still prevails.
Well, if the oil is too cold, like below 90*C or so, the oil becomes too thick. While it’s not a big issue for normal, every day driving, it becomes an issue when the engine is taken to the high RPM’s or during hard acceleration because the oil pump relief valve may open and it will cause oil pump cavitation, reducing oil flow at the critical time when that flow is most needed.
The only way to know if you need oil cooler is to have an oil temp, or pressure gauge.

Better yet, there is a very simple way of dealing with those high engine temps, if they truly happen without the need for coolers and risks asociated with them, like leaks. Just use a heavier grade oil, preferably synthetic . It's that simple.

depending on how the coolers are installed or how they are cooled. over cooling is pretty much out of the question as the engine cooling system is also acting as a heater. this is why i installed my cooler near my radiator/condenser. the engine oil cooler uses the coolant to operate. but also acts as a heater to keep the temperatures stable. in any case, the engine oil should be well over the coolant temp at any given time. much like how the oil is being cooled by the walls of the oil pan (not very effective) and filter assembly. adding this cooler doesnt actually "cool" the oil, but rather adds a more efficient way of transferring the heat away from it. in no case should any of these coolers cause the fluids to drop below operating temps.

my transmission cooler is actually a low pressure drop system where IF the oil becomes too cold (which is pretty much impossible after warm up) it passes through a separate oil gallery with no restriction.

heavier grade oils offer better protection at higher temperatures but DO NOT cause the oil to run cooler. it may in fact increase oil temperatures. which is not good for the engine components. running a lighter engine oil (oem spec) while running the cooler offers the protection of the heavier grade oil while keep engine component temperatures within a safe range.

this may be simple in ONE application, but you have to consider other operating demands. stop and go traffic can cause the oil to reach UNBELIEVABLE temps and in some engines, actually cause the engine oil to boil and burn. but todays oils resist that, but in turn create a varnish on the surface. track day setups are not the same as street setups. depending on what kind of auto sport your in, all the fluids might have to be changed before going on the track. somewhat like how F1 tires only work when hot. its because of the compounds in it. special things for special needs

[RedRaptor]

but for the sake of saving money, you might want to use the tribute/escape oil cooler because it is MUCH cheaper, even after the hassle of importing the hoses

The difference in price between the Ford/Tribute and MS3/MS6/CX7 coolers isn't as significant as you may think, at least in Canada. I did my research in getting quotes from a Ford dealership and Mazda (Joe/FLIPDADDY). The difference in price after all said and done doesn't even come close to $100.

[stock3]

my transmission cooler is actually a low pressure drop system where IF the oil becomes too cold (which is pretty much impossible after warm up) it passes through a separate oil gallery with no restriction.

I have no clue what a low pressure drop system is. But I do know that some transmission coolers have thermostats that only allow the ATF to pass through the cooler once certain temp is reached. These types of coolers are OK.

heavier grade oils offer better protection at higher temperatures but DO NOT cause the oil to run cooler. it may in fact increase oil temperatures. which is not good for the engine components. running a lighter engine oil (oem spec) while running the cooler offers the protection of the heavier grade oil while keep engine component temperatures within a safe range.

I never said heavier oil run cooler. But you have to understand dynamic oil viscosity and how it changes with temperature to get why thicker oils can be used with higher temps instead of expensive oil coolers.

this may be simple in ONE application, but you have to consider other operating demands. stop and go traffic can cause the oil to reach UNBELIEVABLE temps and in some engines, actually cause the engine oil to boil and burn. but todays oils resist that, but in turn create a varnish on the surface.

Well, Mazda did consider majority of applications and how the car will be used in Canada and US. That is why they recommend 5w20 oil with no oil cooler. Other countries like Germany, with high speed, high RPM operational requirements, spec 5w30 or thicker oil and some models have coolers.
The point I was trying to make is that people simply guess what they oil temp is. Statements like "I drive hard" or "stop and go puts temps through the roof" have no justifications what so ever unless they're backed with oil temp readings, which I have not seen in this thread. If stop and go cause such high oil temps as you claim, then we would see tons of car on 401, stuck in traffic with blown engines, but we don't.

Besides, why would you want another complication added to the system? Extra tubing and connections mean extra points of failure. A rock or road debris can literally blow up your engine. Why take the chance when there are other options available? Is it just for the sake of modding?

[RedRaptor]

stock3,

I'm not disagreeing with anything you've said in regards to without a oil temp gauge, one can only speculate the oil temps in their engine. To address the issue of adding an extra point of failure, I don't think that applies to this scenario where those interested in this mod are seeking an OEM kit to install. The OEM oil coolers discussed comes stock on a wide variety of Mazda & Ford vehicles. The components would be plug & play and would carry the factory tested/proven quality that OEM parts come with.

I think there is added benefit in installing this on a standard Mazda3 especially if you are tracking/auto-x.

[TheMAN]

I think people need do some research before installing these coolers on N/A 3's. The common mantra, taken at face value, that cooler is better simply does not work that way. There is a reason why thermostats are set at certain temperatures and oil coolers are either added or not to the system. That reason is overall system temperature and how it affects oil viscosity.

Oil temperature is critical in order to keep the viscosity in check. Too hot is just as bad as too cold. When the oil goes beyond minimum viscosity temperature, which is usually at 150*C, it becomes too thin and doesn't provide adequate film strength for the bearings and camshafts. That's pretty much well understood and everybody fears that their oil may get too hot. But in reality, it is very hard to reach 150*C in a normally aspirated engine on public roads, even on a track it's not that easy because the speeds are higher.

The issue of overcooling the engine and tranny oil is often overlooked though. Most people, like in this thread, just slap on a cooler without even knowing if it’s needed because the common mantra that cooler is better still prevails.
Well, if the oil is too cold, like below 90*C or so, the oil becomes too thick. While it’s not a big issue for normal, every day driving, it becomes an issue when the engine is taken to the high RPM’s or during hard acceleration because the oil pump relief valve may open and it will cause oil pump cavitation, reducing oil flow at the critical time when that flow is most needed.
The only way to know if you need oil cooler is to have an oil temp, or pressure gauge.

Better yet, there is a very simple way of dealing with those high engine temps, if they truly happen without the need for coolers and risks asociated with them, like leaks. Just use a heavier grade oil, preferably synthetic . It's that simple.

oh, I have not considered over cooling when I put the OEM oil cooler on my car? Then how come the oil cooler is BEHIND the thermostat with the heater hoses so that the engine will warm it up as quickly as possible?

Well, Mazda did consider majority of applications and how the car will be used in Canada and US. That is why they recommend 5w20 oil with no oil cooler. Other countries like Germany, with high speed, high RPM operational requirements, spec 5w30 or thicker oil and some models have coolers.
The point I was trying to make is that people simply guess what they oil temp is. Statements like "I drive hard" or "stop and go puts temps through the roof" have no justifications what so ever unless they're backed with oil temp readings, which I have not seen in this thread. If stop and go cause such high oil temps as you claim, then we would see tons of car on 401, stuck in traffic with blown engines, but we don't.

Besides, why would you want another complication added to the system? Extra tubing and connections mean extra points of failure. A rock or road debris can literally blow up your engine. Why take the chance when there are other options available? Is it just for the sake of modding?

they considered that they needed to get the best EPA MPG figures and that people don't haul ass compared to Europeans, that's why they left off the oil cooler and used the piss thin 5W20... they must be done something right for reliability since a bunch of 3s are known to burn half a quart of oil during their recommended oil change intervals right?

oh wow, so this oil cooler hangs under the car in the face of rocks and critters... omg omg, I need to worry about the coke can sitting on the highway so that I don't kill my engine now! I need to worry about the coolant hose bursting since I replaced the stock coolant hose that runs from the same place to the stock trans cooler with one that goes to the engine oil cooler first



keep posting without knowing how the stock oil cooler works and how it looks like, ok?

[silverstarmazda]

I have no clue what a low pressure drop system is. But I do know that some transmission coolers have thermostats that only allow the ATF to pass through the cooler once certain temp is reached. These types of coolers are OK.



I never said heavier oil run cooler. But you have to understand dynamic oil viscosity and how it changes with temperature to get why thicker oils can be used with higher temps instead of expensive oil coolers.



Well, Mazda did consider majority of applications and how the car will be used in Canada and US. That is why they recommend 5w20 oil with no oil cooler. Other countries like Germany, with high speed, high RPM operational requirements, spec 5w30 or thicker oil and some models have coolers.
The point I was trying to make is that people simply guess what they oil temp is. Statements like "I drive hard" or "stop and go puts temps through the roof" have no justifications what so ever unless they're backed with oil temp readings, which I have not seen in this thread. If stop and go cause such high oil temps as you claim, then we would see tons of car on 401, stuck in traffic with blown engines, but we don't.

Besides, why would you want another complication added to the system? Extra tubing and connections mean extra points of failure. A rock or road debris can literally blow up your engine. Why take the chance when there are other options available? Is it just for the sake of modding?

low pressure drop and in it doesnt drop the pressure too much lol. basically low restriction, and when the oil does become thick enough. it passes through 2 bigger oil galleries instead of flowing through the cooler. when the fluid become hot and less viscous, it stops flowing through the bigger gallery and starts flowing through the cooler.

yes, i know you didnt mean that the oil runs cooler. lol sry if the capitols make me sound like a jerk but i just want people to see the "do not". yes the dynamic of the oil plays an important role. but today's oil are very stable at temperature changes. you would have problems with the oil burning before you would have problems with it becoming too thin. and yes, its expensive, BUT its can stop or eliminate oil from over heating. which is a big plus considering how mazda/speed 3 owners drive lol. just stepping on the pedal at 2000 rpm can heat the oil 10* higher in less than a minute until the heat is transfered out. added with other heat from other sources the oil can reach up to 30* before cooling can stabilize with the rate of oil flow and heat transfer properties.

you mean like that commercial where they put the new mazda 3 in a penitentiary?? while cruising down the highway with my 4 speed, my engine rpms pretty much stay at 3000 rpm. and while following the flow of traffic up to 4000 rpm. some people here with us and canadian spec mazda 3's run 5-30 in the summer with no problems. but like i said before, thicker oil might make more heat but with the benefit of better protection. 5-20 oil = no added heat + cooler to stabilize the oil temp where the oil will offer better protection. just cause you dont see people posting temp gauges on this thread doesnt mean other car forums havnt tried. googling it will come up with amazing before and after results, especially with the truck guys.

the reason you dont see cars blowing up on the highway is all thanks to the cooling system the car already has. the engines can keep it together. HOWEVER i can almost guarantee that at least half of the cars on the 401 today are either burning oil or is over heating something in someway. the driver may not even know it. this is why gas stations use to check all the fluids and tires pressure back then when you refuel. they dont do this anymore except for maybe japan.

thats the beauty of this OEM mod though. its simple and its doesn't change the physical shape of the engine too much. nothing is getting in the way of anything. as long as the proper procedures are made and the right materials are used, you shouldn't be running into any problems. there is no pressure problems too where other coolers would fail. what other options is there to cool and stabilize the oil temperature other than an oil cooler? there are oils out their making tall claims and they do work sometimes. but none of the oil out there claims to run cooler for a longer period of time. if someone was to make a "water wetter" for oil, they'll be very rich.

i can understand where your coming from and your right, however todays cars and oils have come a long way. our cars dont need this cooler BUT its a great mod that can prevent costly repairs and can even protect your engine better. it can even extend oil life and keep it from breaking down faster. if oil is hotter than coolant, this is a great mod. if coolant is hotter than oil, then were in trouble lol (other than start up). i would also suggest a coolant change with this mod to make sure the coolant can handle the added temps, and can dissipate it efficiently.

[stock3]

I need to apologize for generalizing and not being specific enough. When I was talking about overcooling, I had those exterior radiators that are mounted in front, or behind the main car radiator in my mind, just like that pic of a BMW in this thread. These things, if not controlled by a thermostat, are a bad idea unless it is confirmed that the oil constantly gets above recommended temperature.

Regarding the little Mazda OEM cooler, I still think it's a waste of time and money to put it on regular MZ3 just based on a hunch. But at least it's exchanging heat with coolant so minimum temp should be OK and the overall stability of the oil temp should be improved.
I have a question, though, as I don't know where in the cooling system this cooler hooks up to. Is it taking the coolant from the engine block and heater core loop, or from the radiator loop?

[silverstarmazda]

I need to apologize for generalizing and not being specific enough. When I was talking about overcooling, I had those exterior radiators that are mounted in front, or behind the main car radiator in my mind, just like that pic of a BMW in this thread. These things, if not controlled by a thermostat, are a bad idea unless it is confirmed that the oil constantly gets above recommended temperature.

Regarding the little Mazda OEM cooler, I still think it's a waste of time and money to put it on regular MZ3 just based on a hunch. But at least it's exchanging heat with coolant so minimum temp should be OK and the overall stability of the oil temp should be improved.
I have a question, though, as I don't know where in the cooling system this cooler hooks up to. Is it taking the coolant from the engine block and heater core loop, or from the radiator loop?

no need to apologize lol, were all here to learn.... especially me.

lol didnt i say those coolers are only good for warm climate like california? the only time those coolers are any good is for summer cars/race car. not sure why your talking about the thermostat. the thermostat is operated by the coolant heating up. we do not have electronic thermostats. we have good ol' wax filled/spring thermostats. adding heat to the coolant wouldnt effect the operation of it though. since the coolant will be heated up before the oil gets up to temp because the coolant isnt flowing. the cooler depicted in the bmw picture doesnt have to be controlled by a thermostat because its hooked up in-line with the oil line. just like ours. if it was controlled by a thermostat, you will cut off oil to your engine and starve the engine components.

if you read on another thread, there is a coolant line connected to a cooling block for the transmission. basically its a solid metal puck with 2 channels in it. one for the oil and one for the coolant. heat from the oil is transfered to the coolant because of the difference in temperature. that coolant comes from the block before the pump (upstream), runs through the cooler, and back into the block after the pump(down stream). this is so the coolant actually cycles through the hoses and not just sit in the lines.

now the engine oil cooler uses the same basic principals as the transmission cooling block. it is fit in between the block before the pump, and the transmission cooling block (puck)

so the coolant would run through the two coolers in this sequence.
engine block (upstream), engine oil cooler, transmission cooler, engine block (down stream)

so in theory, running the engine cooler might make the transmission run hot. since it might equal the temperature of the coolant and the transmission oil. there will be not transfer of heat. running an external transmission cooler like zzz3 and I will negate this effect to an extent. so in the end, you can only cool one fluid. not both.

[TheMAN]

the mazda5 cools both systems just fine, and it came with a stock oil cooler

air oil coolers DO need to be thermostat controlled but they DO NOT cut off oil flow when the thermostat closes... it goes into bypass mode! If you even knew how a car cooling system works, you'll already know that when the thermostat closes, coolant still circulates within the engine and heater core, not get blocked off!

[TheMAN]

I need to apologize for generalizing and not being specific enough. When I was talking about overcooling, I had those exterior radiators that are mounted in front, or behind the main car radiator in my mind, just like that pic of a BMW in this thread. These things, if not controlled by a thermostat, are a bad idea unless it is confirmed that the oil constantly gets above recommended temperature.

Regarding the little Mazda OEM cooler, I still think it's a waste of time and money to put it on regular MZ3 just based on a hunch. But at least it's exchanging heat with coolant so minimum temp should be OK and the overall stability of the oil temp should be improved.
I have a question, though, as I don't know where in the cooling system this cooler hooks up to. Is it taking the coolant from the engine block and heater core loop, or from the radiator loop?

if you think it's a waste of time, then don't put one on your car
for me, it made a big difference... it dropped the temperatures down to 85 degrees after a highway run, the oil filter was no longer scalding hot compared to before
I'll enjoy the increased oil life and safe extended oil change intervals, thank you

[Wes08M3]

if you think it's a waste of time, then don't put one on your car
for me, it made a big difference... it dropped the temperatures down to 85 degrees after a highway run, the oil filter was no longer scalding hot compared to before
I'll enjoy the increased oil life and safe extended oil change intervals, thank you

Isn't 85 degrees a bit cold for oil temps though? Don't you want your oil temp to be around 100 degrees?

Maybe a bit cooler would be OK for a thin oil like 5w-20 or 0w-20... But I was under the impression that 100 degrees is the general operating temp for engine oil.

[silverstarmazda]

the mazda5 cools both systems just fine, and it came with a stock oil cooler

air oil coolers DO need to be thermostat controlled but they DO NOT cut off oil flow when the thermostat closes... it goes into bypass mode! If you even knew how a car cooling system works, you'll already know that when the thermostat closes, coolant still circulates within the engine and heater core, not get blocked off!

absolutely, but im not sure if he meant a separate thermostat for the cooler itself or if he means the one for the coolant. he said "just like that pic of a BMW in this thread. These things, if not controlled by a thermostat, are a bad idea unless it is confirmed that the oil constantly gets above recommended temperature." so i assumed he meant to add another thermostat to the cooler. and if its an in line cooler, that would block off oil flow when closed. thats what i meant. and yea, my recent post wasnt very accurate so ill add.

coolant is constantly circulating through the cooling lines no matter if the thermostat is open or not. since its within the closed loop of the bypass.
i keep thinking of the other system where the external cooling accessories are coming from after the thermostat. silly me...

[silverstarmazda]

if you think it's a waste of time, then don't put one on your car
for me, it made a big difference... it dropped the temperatures down to 85 degrees after a highway run, the oil filter was no longer scalding hot compared to before
I'll enjoy the increased oil life and safe extended oil change intervals, thank you

THAT explains a lot lol. no wonder your OCI can last so long ahahha

[silverstarmazda]

Isn't 85 degrees a bit cold for oil temps though? Don't you want your oil temp to be around 100 degrees?

Maybe a bit cooler would be OK for a thin oil like 5w-20 or 0w-20... But I was under the impression that 100 degrees is the general operating temp for engine oil.

somewhere around there....you want to be able to vaporize the moisture in the crankcase left by the combustion. and we all know what temp water vaporizes at. the gases are then expelled via the crank case vent valve where it would be reintroduced back into the combustion chamber. burned, and out the exhaust.

[stock3]

if you think it's a waste of time, then don't put one on your car
for me, it made a big difference... it dropped the temperatures down to 85 degrees after a highway run, the oil filter was no longer scalding hot compared to before
I'll enjoy the increased oil life and safe extended oil change intervals, thank you

85 degrees 5w30 oil is basically as thick as 5w40 at proper operating temp, which is between 95-100 degrees. If your temps are correct, you are running at higher oil pressures than needed and you may have oil cavitation problems in high load situations.
And running oil cooler doesn't automatically mean you can extend OCI's, because fuel and water contamination cannot be burned off as quickly.
So yah, keep telling yourself these fairy tales and they just might come true one day.

In the mean time, I'm ruuning "piss poor" 5w20 or 5w30 oil for summer, because I got it on sale, with no oil coolers and zero oil consumption and the engine looks very clean through the fill hole at 160,000 klicks.

[Wes08M3]

somewhere around there....you want to be able to vaporize the moisture in the crankcase left by the combustion. and we all know what temp water vaporizes at. the gases are then expelled via the crank case vent valve where it would be reintroduced back into the combustion chamber. burned, and out the exhaust.

This is a valid point as well.

I was more just thinking about the optimum temperature at which you'd have a suitable viscosity. I thought that was around 100 degrees. At 85 degrees what is the viscosity? Can it flow properly to lubricate as required under high engine load? I don't know, which is why I was curious to know at what sort of temperature threshold does the oil become too viscous again.

[silverstarmazda]

well you cant just say a cold 5-20 is as thick as 15-40 or what ever at 100 degrees. every oil is different at different temps. some can be watery and stay the same way throughout the temperature range. some can be thick as hell and get vinegar thin when things get hot. you can take two brands of 5-20 and theyll probably be different viscosity. synthetic is a thin oil, but doesn't thin out as much as temps get higher. while conventional is usually a bit thicker and gets thinner as it heats up. every oil company measures the viscosity differently by using different machines. even though the viscosity index is pretty much global, there are differences in between.

we have to remember, oil usually burns up, breaks down, boil at around 300 *C. its the constant cooling and heating that breaks the oil down pretty fast. so keeping that fluctuating temperature range closer together would probably slow down oil break down.

ive said ive run castrol edge (black bottle) in my car. and i can tell you, that oil is pretty thin when it comes out the bottle.

[silverstarmazda]

85 degrees 5w30 oil is basically as thick as 5w40 at proper operating temp, which is between 95-100 degrees. If your temps are correct, you are running at higher oil pressures than needed and you may have oil cavitation problems in high load situations.
And running oil cooler doesn't automatically mean you can extend OCI's, because fuel and water contamination cannot be burned off as quickly.
So yah, keep telling yourself these fairy tales and they just might come true one day.

In the mean time, I'm ruuning "piss poor" 5w20 or 5w30 oil for summer, because I got it on sale, with no oil coolers and zero oil consumption and the engine looks very clean through the fill hole at 160,000 klicks.

operating temps will always remain above 100*C aka vaporizing point on the moisture. the fuel and water contamination turns into fumes and vapor. these dont burn off in the crank case. they are sent to the pcv valve, and back into the combustion chamber through the intake with the air/fuel, then burned. meet my above posts and that might explain how it might extend OCI. open the oil filter cap after a days drive and youll see some steamy fog come out. thats your moisture/fumes.

mmmm...define the piss poor oil....what brand is it? its not just about the viscosity. other things like oil additives, and base oils used play a huge role in the oil life/protection. sometimes theres a reason things go on sale for like %50 off. sometimes its because the oil might be getting old and the additives are starting to lose effect. looking into the filler hole isnt a good way to check if the oil is doing its job. i can take a old corrola with a sludge problem, run some seafoam in it and ill get clean internals. but the damage has already been done. what you really need to look at is the bearing surface of the crank shaft and other components. something you need to rip the engine apart to see.