That was my next question lol... what duro to get. Whats the difference between the softer and harder duros? Does it change the feel a lot from going from one to another or is it just personal preference?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fack_Dude
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That was my next question lol... what duro to get. Whats the difference between the softer and harder duros? Does it change the feel a lot from going from one to another or is it just personal preference?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fack_Dude
Personal preference. The best "bang for your buck" would be the JBR Chrome-Molly RMM 88 duro. I'll send you a PM tonight for another option.Quote:
Originally Posted by pwdunmore
As for my speed it is at 400whp and I want all that power to the ground. So the more stiffer the mounts the better the performance.Quote:
Originally Posted by pwdunmore
I disagreeQuote:
Originally Posted by boyracer
Most of the speed guys do not have all the mounts changed
I'd say there are only a handful of guys with all 3 mounts changed
What I was trying to get at was that most of us in this particular group are mounted. Trying to type all that out on an iphone is painful.Quote:
Originally Posted by loki
I'm the exception, but I do plan on going fully mounted in the future.
Just so we're clear boyracer may not have preferences when it comes to being mounted. But I'm only mounted by women:chuckle, when we're talking cars I'm the mounter versus the mountee!:PQuote:
Originally Posted by boyracer
Quick question on the Cobb ap - is there a difference between AP for Gen1s and Gen2? Can i buy a used on from someone that used it on a Gen1 and run diff maps for my Gen2?
AP will work on both. There are V1 and V2 Cobb AP's, the V2 is better as you don't have to use a dongle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackonblack
is there a physical difference? How can you tell - will is say on the box or anywhere on the AP?
V1 uses a USB cable. V2 has what looks to be a phone cord end that plugs into it.
thanks - one last question. The seller has to un-marry his AP in order for my car to sinc with - is that right?
yesQuote:
Originally Posted by Blackonblack
Where is a good place to buy tires and rims? I'm looking for some 17's and winter tires, tire rack has what I want for $1400(inlcuding taxes and shipping) so i will just have to install. Are there any local shops in Toronto that have food deals? or even cash deals?
Look in the sponsor section on this website. There are several good options.
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Originally Posted by pwdunmore
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Originally Posted by pwdunmore
so you're buying from tire rack? if so you just answered your own question. If you're not buying from tire rack then check out Simply Tire or Go For TiresQuote:
Originally Posted by pwdunmore
What winter tires are you getting? It sounds a bit expensive for a set of 17" winter tires and rims (steel rims?) + installing at your own expense.
17'' alloys, painted silver and clear coated so they don't get the aluminum decay from the salts in the winter.Quote:
Originally Posted by SKYMP3
Michelin X-ice Tires were going on the rims.
I don't know of any tire place that offers food deals. Cash lots of places already offer cash prices. I did find that actually sometimes costco is the cheapest for tires, depending on what you want to get and if they have it.Quote:
Originally Posted by pwdunmore
Yes really. Most people do the motor mounts cause they find the engine's rocking around. For them they think the engine mount's not hard enough and it's the design's fault. For me I think of it as if you aren't shifting smoothly enough for the stock mount likely you should be. A stiffer mount just move the drive train shock from basically a constant stream of small clutch dumps to the next component in the system. Personally, I find after a year I am able to shift the car without the engine rocking around even during hard acceleration. The only time I find "wheel hop" is WOT in slippery conditions. But it's not during a shift it's when it hits a bump WOT and the road's not able to handle the torque.Quote:
Originally Posted by SomeGuy
I sent you a PM about the winters I'll be selling that were used on my Mazdaspeed3. Pics are at: https://picasaweb.google.com/jonwils...azdaspeed6RimsQuote:
Originally Posted by pwdunmore
Jon
During steady acceleration there aren't issues with the stock mount, it's already loaded. It's between shifts, you let off the gas the engine rocks forward as you engage another gear and then pulls back when you get back on the gas. This movement is undesirable and actually causes more wear to components and makes for sloppier feel of the shifts. I've driven both this 3 and my previous 3 with stock mounts and I was perfectly capable of being smooth, but with the RMM changed on this 3 it's even better and also makes it more forgiving of sloppy shifts (nobody shifts perfectly 100% of the time). Also when rolling in first gear in stop and go traffic it gets rid of some of that bobbing/shaking when getting on and off the gas.Quote:
Originally Posted by gotak
Anyone who argues that an upgraded RMM is not worth it has either never driven a car with one or is an idiot.
And as for vibes...just get the stage 2 cpe or a ~60 duro. The only time the vibes are noticable is when idling with the AC on.
I've driven a car with and without during daily spirited driving. I'm not in any rush to do it... You calling me an idiot?
Sure ;) lol idiot :PQuote:
Originally Posted by Snotrocket
Wosers. :popQuote:
Originally Posted by SomeGuy