LOLZ. do not go the nitrous route... it will wear out ur stock engine much quiker after continual use and its illegal. as for the lightweight pullies, ive heard issues from the sr made ones (ex, the water/coolant pump not working properly). be wary. as for the balance shaft delete. its in there for a reason. imo, do not take that out, unless you are willing to live with getting a new engine much sooner. ask shu about that.
dont take shortcuts, it will get you in the end.
as for the godspeed manifold. its a rip from the cosworth one but cheaper. have not seen any dyno runs or pulls to show the difference, very skeptical as to how much actual whp it adds(I believe one of the reasons why wingzero got rid of his)... although in theory, it should work in the higher rpms. not sure id be putting that on anytime soon, as the stock afr's before open loop seem to like to stay around 14.5' -1. adding more air after the maf sensor might be doing harm and running lean during daily driving?
like many have said, get a speed, or if you are determined to have a n/a car, start of with some nice simple i/h/e and see if you like it.
Last edited by Kiyomi; 10-11-2012 at 12:07 AM.
there are many people running a BSD, speed and non-speed, without issue. the reason the balance shafts are there is to counteract vibrations but the assembly blocks a portion of cylinder 3 from getting oil and the theory is that the balance shafts cause oil starvation in cylinder 3....which, if you have oil consumption issues, cylinder 3 is usually the one to blow when the oil gets too low.
as for the intake manifold, if you have air getting added after the MAF sensor, you have a leak. a better flowing intake manifold will allow more air to flow into the cylinder (and thus more air to flow through the MAF), not add more air post-MAF.
a lot of people on the M3F run the balance shaft delete with only minimal vibrations. which im sure wears out something in the engine sooner. like how a out of balance wheel will wear out the tread unevenly and youll get bald spots.
i run injector cleaner for maximum horse power LOL![]()
I had balance shaft delete, vibrant header, exhaust, injen intake, lightweight water pump and alternator pulleys and light weight rims and tires. I was able to hang with E90 328i coupe at a stop light. However I did blow my engine at 125k LOL
Worth it!
So many acronyms in this thread. Makes my head spin. Can anyone chime in if the I/H/E upgrades void the warranty? I have so many things I want to get done to my car, but not sure which I can/cannot do for fear of voiding my warranty and wasting all that money.
It was only a matter of time before someone asked about warranty
if your worried about warranty. dont mod it. depending on the dealer and "repairs required" yes an intake, headers, and exhaust can void warranty. but it depends what you would need to have fixed. if you change your I/H/E wouldnt deny your warranty on the shocks for example.
Stickers just got installed and it definately pulls harder... Too bad the sound didn't changeAnd yes, after going through that thread, I've decided that I'll probably stick with header, intake and catback. Already got yellows and sportline and car definately handles better
All I wanted was to keep up with my bro with a 2012 Civic Si
178 whp ... I guess that's possible with money and good will
Thanks alot again !
I was wondering if switching to a ms3 turbo block and kept my mz3 head would increase power ?
buy a Speed3![]()
I could actually get a turbo kit for less than a grandsupporting mods would be pricy though hahaha, was more a question, i think 240 horse is enough for a daily driver :p
Gift from my friend's 2.3 hatch :p hes moved on to an s15 .. Sold all electronics but still has all hardware
Sorry for double post, S14*